Diesel RVs: February 2008

[Diesel-RVs] Re: Coolant, Cavitation & Pressure Cap

Cavitation & the need for adequate coolant system:
If you set a bucket of water down hard, you get a spritz of water back
up out of the bucket. What happened is the weight of water pressed
down into the bucket, pushing out on its sides expanding it slightly.
When the expansion snaps back, the concussion creates a wave in the
water that makes the small fountain. This is a low frequency response
of the water.

Reverse the fluids, so the liquid (now coolant) is on the outside of
the bucket (now cylinder), and the gas (was air, now air/diesel charge
in the cylinder) is inside. When the piston compresses the air charge
sufficiently to combust the fuel in it, the fuel explodes causing a
very high frequency concussion inside the cylinder. The concussion
expands the cylinder lining/jacket slightly; it rebounds- VERY
rapidly. This very high frequency vibration of the coolant jacket
wall can exceed the ability of adjacent fluid to remain in liquid
form, hence gas bubbles can form at these concussion sites, and
pitting type corrosion occurs where the gas bubbles form. The pits
can continue till the jacket has a hole or holes in it, and it can
ruin the block. If we used plain, unpressurized water instead of
coolant, we would ruin our engines in a short time; water has zero
tolerance for the vibration. Instead we pressurize the fluid, and we
use a chemically formulated fluid that resists the formation of the
gas bubbles. The Supplemental Coolant Additive (SCA) is the chemical
additive that fixes ordinary coolant used in gas engines, where the
concussion isn't critical, for use in diesels where it is critical.

The other thing that can contribute to cavitation is inadequate
pressurization of coolant system. As a regular precaution we should
have our radiator pressure cap tested & replaced when not up to spec.
I always have the new cap tested, since not all new caps (now
probably made in China) are created equal to the task. 14 pounds in
China may not be equal to 14 pounds North American.

ISL Owners: As mentioned previously in this thread, certain ISC
(8.3L) Cummins come with a coolant filter that dissolves SCA back into
the coolant at a rate approximating its decay. The ISL used in
motorhomes does not. There may be a filter can but it is a blank. So
testing for SCA level is a must biannually or so in the ISL. Unless
you change your coolant out to an OAT type coolant, in which case the
horses will be feeling their OATs longer than you will be needing the
coach in most cases.

On a related subject, I suggest placing a label at your coolant add
location specifying what coolant is used, and date of last SCA check
if applicable. This helps avoid mixing types of coolants or other
problems brought on by CRS.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sell or fix?

Hi Paul,
I just went through a similar scenario.
A beautiful, clean 240D auto, with a blown engine....
I ended up buying a crashed, but really good engine, 300D, and, putting the
engine/trans in my 240.
Pretty clean swap. I could also have put just the engine in, except, they
had different kickdown mechanisms (vacuum=-mechanical).
It would seem you could do the standard tests on your parts engine:
compression, cold starting, oil cap dance, smoke, and color of same, at cold
start and warm revs.
Does the parts car start? Of course, that'd be critical to testing.....

Just a few random thoughts.
good luck,
Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul E. Nandico, Jr." <rehoboth@junct.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:59 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Sell or fix?

> Hi all.
>
> Been a while since I posted - a long while.
>
> Those who can remember, know that I posted instructions on replacing
> some things. From this, you know that I have tried to do good quality
> work on my 240D Problem is, I just got it back from a good diesel
> mechanic who said the engine was basically shot. I can give specifics
> if it helps. Can't recall what he said now (will have to call him).
>
> Thing is, it was to be my daughter's car. It's got new tires, new
> alternator, and other new stuff - lots of other stuff - mainly basic
> mechanical stuff. Brand spanking new battery too - as that was suspect.
> Now, it doesn't run. I also have a parts car which is almost complete.
>
>
> If I were to sell it (as I really don't need another car now - ended up
> getting another car for daughter), how much should I ask? Honestly, I
> could use the money for parts for my tractor much more than a car right
> now (smile).
>
> From what my (other) mechanic told me, the parts car had a better engine
> in it than mine (though I just kept on driving my car - until I had to
> quit driving - and my wife got a new car for work). It has a manual
> transmission. My car has an automatic (which was always doggie). I am
> not opposed to hanging on to the car, and switching the engines
> w/transmissions out. How hard is this to do?
>
> One concern I have is - how can I know better whether this parts car
> engine is indeed okay?
>
> Well, enough questions for now. I'm thankful this group is still here -
> and active.
>
> Paul (from Okie-la-homie)
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Sell or fix?

Hi all.

Been a while since I posted - a long while.

Those who can remember, know that I posted instructions on replacing some things. From this, you know that I have tried to do good quality work on my 240D Problem is, I just got it back from a good diesel mechanic who said the engine was basically shot. I can give specifics if it helps. Can't recall what he said now (will have to call him).

Thing is, it was to be my daughter's car. It's got new tires, new alternator, and other new stuff - lots of other stuff - mainly basic mechanical stuff. Brand spanking new battery too - as that was suspect. Now, it doesn't run. I also have a parts car which is almost complete.

If I were to sell it (as I really don't need another car now - ended up getting another car for daughter), how much should I ask? Honestly, I could use the money for parts for my tractor much more than a car right now (smile).

From what my (other) mechanic told me, the parts car had a better engine in it than mine (though I just kept on driving my car - until I had to quit driving - and my wife got a new car for work). It has a manual transmission. My car has an automatic (which was always doggie). I am not opposed to hanging on to the car, and switching the engines w/transmissions out. How hard is this to do?

One concern I have is - how can I know better whether this parts car engine is indeed okay?

Well, enough questions for now. I'm thankful this group is still here - and active.

Paul (from Okie-la-homie)

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Coolant Information

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Gert Zander <gzander1@...> wrote:
>
> Not all diesel engines are sleeved. My B5.9 Cummins is not and the
> coolant is green.
>
Heads up on the Cummins B5.9. There is an ASTM spec that the
antifreeze must meet for this engine or it does incur cavitation
pitting and eventually you will have a block failure. If you don't
have any literature to refer to, I can look up the ASTM spec for you.
Literally all diesel engines need specific attention paid to he
antifreeze used. Generally you cannot get antifreeze that meets diesel
requirements at Walmart but most auto parts stores do carry it.
Obviously diesel engine shops will carry what you need. Most auto
parts stores carry the the test strips to see if your antifreeze still
has the necessary active additive levels. The best advice is to
exactly follow the vehicle manufacturers specification and as long as
the antifreeze you use for the engine (and cooling system) meets the
ASTM specification and passes periodic testing and you change
antifreeze at the recommended change intervals, you should not have
any problem.
Perry
1993 Bounder 5.9 Cummins

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Rusty Cullens MB Parts

All my parts had mercedes too.And NAPA stuff like glowplugs are OEM.

tom hanson <halfviking@yahoo.com> wrote:

Check the shipping lable to see who the sender was.
It's possible the parts were ordered for Rusty by one
of our dealers. That's about the only feasable way to
get OEM parts in an MB box. Bringing them in direct
from Germany doesn't work anymore. The exchange rate
works against us in the USA. You might check us for
competitive prices. We never mark up parts over
retail, and we disocunt to club groups.
--- vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
> O.K. Tom ;
>
> The box had an L.A. shipping stamp on the label and
> it contained
> only Mercedes factory parts, I dunno .
>
> How was your vacation ? WELCOME HOME !.
>
> -Nate
> Tom wrote:
>
> > It would be impossible for you to get anything
> > purchased from Rusty shipped from our L.A. Region
> > Parts Distribution Center.
> >
> > Tom Hanson
> > Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
> > thomas.hanson@...
> >
>
>
>

Tom Hanson
Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com

Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. __._,_.___

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Rusty Cullens MB Parts

Check the shipping lable to see who the sender was.
It's possible the parts were ordered for Rusty by one
of our dealers. That's about the only feasable way to
get OEM parts in an MB box. Bringing them in direct
from Germany doesn't work anymore. The exchange rate
works against us in the USA. You might check us for
competitive prices. We never mark up parts over
retail, and we disocunt to club groups.
--- vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
> O.K. Tom ;
>
> The box had an L.A. shipping stamp on the label and
> it contained
> only Mercedes factory parts, I dunno .
>
> How was your vacation ? WELCOME HOME !.
>
> -Nate
> Tom wrote:
>
> > It would be impossible for you to get anything
> > purchased from Rusty shipped from our L.A. Region
> > Parts Distribution Center.
> >
> > Tom Hanson
> > Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
> > thomas.hanson@...
> >
>
>
>

Tom Hanson
Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Surf's UP!!

It'll always be the cleavage for me.... =8-) .
-Nate
(growing older but NOT up)

Max wrote:
>Is that a genuine Mercedes part in your pocket, or you just happy to see her, or her cleavage??? Max _,_._,___

WHERE is this loverly girl??
Robert (<-"surfer boy")
W126 near Detroit

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information

You are correct Gert --- I was only talking about the ones which are sleeved -- I did not make that clear in my post. Even if mine were not sleeved, I would not mix the different color coolants as they contain different chemicals for different reasons.

--
Dave Knight
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969

-------------- Original message --------------
From: Gert Zander <gzander1@verizon.net>

> Not all diesel engines are sleeved. My B5.9 Cummins is not and the
> coolant is green.
>
> dknig288@comcast.net wrote:
> > I am passing on information gained from another individual. The green color
> is normally coolant for an automobile engine (gas engine) and it is not
> formulated for diesel engines. For diesel engines you have two types of
> coolants --- one with SCAs (Supplemental Coolant Additives) and one with OATs
> (Organic Acid Technology).
> >
> >
> > Dave Knight
> > dknig288@comcast.net
> > Hook'em Horns 1969
> > 2002 Ultimate Advantage - 36C, 350 HP Cummins 8.3, Allison transmission
> >
> >
> >
> >> : >
> >> : > ----- Original Message -----
> >> : > From: Joe
> >> : > To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
> >> : > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:22 AM
> >> : > Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information
> >> : >
> >> : >
> >> : > My Country Coach Intrigue came with coolant that was green. I
> >> : > repleaced a radiator in a friends MH and bought some coolant from
> >> : > Cummins 50/50 mix and it was blue. Had some left over and used it in
> >> : > my MH. That's gone and I bought some heavy duty coolant for trucks
> >> : > 50/50 and it's orange. Looked at the specs and all said they could be
> >> : > used with any other coolant. What's the difference.
> >> : >
> >> : > Joe
> >> : > 98 Country Coach Intrigue
> >> :
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
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> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you
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>
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>
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] AT bushings

Wow! I just got through installing bushings on my 84 300D for the
shift linkage. What a PITA!!I spent more time replacing those two
than replacing the starter. I wound up heating them in a microwave
next to the car. Not for the faint of heart for sure. I now can
start the thing in park and park holds. Now I'm on to parking brake
adjustments.
Jeff

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

All - Thanks for your help. It was finally decided that it was in the drive shaft. They fixed that and replaced the U joints (per your recommendations). I test drove it yesterday and it seems fine now. I leave on a flight for Vegas tomorrow. It's going to be damned cold here tonight, so I haven't done anything else except feed my woodstove to help on fuel. I think I'm going down to Pensacola Naval shortly after I return home. I really appreciate the input and now I know where to ask questions. The mechanics at the shop had heard from your group on prior occasions. It's reassuring because I really haven't driven many diesels - primarily Army dump trucks on occasion. Thanks again - Glen Milender, '96 Sahara Serengeti 300 CAT & (hopefully) '07 Jeep Gr Cher toad - Brainerd, Mn

Phil Carrell <phil@philcarrell.com> wrote: Jim; Unless I have CRS really bad, the pumpkin has to come out
before you can remove the pinion.

Phil Carrell

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "JIM FLUCKEY" wrote:
>
> Sure there is, think 9" Ford. You can pull the pinion by removing
the
> surround bolts on the pinion flange and just remove the pinion and
bearings
> without disturbing the ring gear or the axles. Most big truck and
MH third
> members are set up this way on a larger scale.
> Jim & Sally Fluckey
> 2001 40' Allegro Bus
> Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TVNAV.com"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 11:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
>
>
> > I can't remember ever seeing a rear end that the pinion could
be
> > removed
> > without removing the axles.
> >
> > Darrel Goheen
> > PressurePro@...
> > http://www.tvnav.com/pressurepro.html
> > Voice 785-625-3546/FAX 413-383-8800
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "wayne KINGSTON"
> > To:
> > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:04 PM
> > Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
> >
> >
> >> KEN,
> >> I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking
about. would
> >> you explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed
with out
> >> pulling the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions
seem to
> >> always be dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E
Kingston '95
> >> EXEC/4runner in Gila Bend
> >>
> >>
> >> ---------------------------------
> >> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo!
Mobile. Try
> >> it
> >> now.
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --------------------------------------------
> >> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> >> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
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> >> you have.
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
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> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------
> > Off-topic posts will be removed.
> > Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
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> > you have.
> >
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> >
> >
> >
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Jim is right, the Ford 9" the pinion gear can be removed with out pulling the pumpkin. 5
bolts at the yoke and it will pull out. The hard part is re-installing it and getting the
right preload on the pinion bearings.
I think on the heavy duty rearends like in the motorhomes the pinion gear comes out
the same way. Many rear ends have a bearing on the end of the pinion shaft, outside the
pinion gear for support. There for, it must come out the end the drive line is located.
I have looked for rebuilding rear ends and my computer locks up on PDF files which
most of the information is or could be for this discussion.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Carrell" <phil@philcarrell.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 1:38 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

: Jim; Unless I have CRS really bad, the pumpkin has to come out
: before you can remove the pinion.
:
: Phil Carrell
:
:
: --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "JIM FLUCKEY" <jflu653@...> wrote:
: >
: > Sure there is, think 9" Ford. You can pull the pinion by removing
: the
: > surround bolts on the pinion flange and just remove the pinion and
: bearings
: > without disturbing the ring gear or the axles. Most big truck and
: MH third
: > members are set up this way on a larger scale.
: > Jim & Sally Fluckey
: > 2001 40' Allegro Bus
: > Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
: > ----- Original Message -----
: > From: "TVNAV.com" <GPS@...>
: > To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
: > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 11:06 PM
: > Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
: >
: >
: > > I can't remember ever seeing a rear end that the pinion could
: be
: > > removed
: > > without removing the axles.
: > >
: > > Darrel Goheen
: > > PressurePro@...
: > >

http://www.tvnav.com/pressurepro.html
: > > Voice 785-625-3546/FAX 413-383-8800
: > >
: > >
: > >
: > > ----- Original Message -----
: > > From: "wayne KINGSTON" <welleking@...>
: > > To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
: > > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:04 PM
: > > Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
: > >
: > >
: > >> KEN,
: > >> I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking
: about. would
: > >> you explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed
: with out
: > >> pulling the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions
: seem to
: > >> always be dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E
: Kingston '95
: > >> EXEC/4runner in Gila Bend
: > >>
: > >>
: > >> ---------------------------------
: > >> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo!
: Mobile. Try
: > >> it
: > >> now.
: > >>
: > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
: > >>
: > >>
: > >>
: > >> --------------------------------------------
: > >> Off-topic posts will be removed.
: > >> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
: RV model
: > >> you have.
: > >>
: > >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
: > >> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
: > >>
: > >> Yahoo! Groups Links
: > >>
: > >>
: > >>
: > >>
: > >>
: > >
: > >
: > >
: > > --------------------------------------------
: > > Off-topic posts will be removed.
: > > Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
: RV model
: > > you have.
: > >
: > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
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: > >
: > > Yahoo! Groups Links
: > >
: > >
: > >
: >
:
:
:
:
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[diesel_mercedes] for Benz lovers---Amelia Island Concours info March 7,8,9

Hi All

As a fellow MB enthusiast, I thought if you are planning on attending the Amelia Island Concours in Florida this year, you might like to spend Friday evening of the weekend with other Benz folk. Everyone is welcome.

Jackie Manson, Pres. Southern Stars Section MBCA

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Event info Amelia Concours

Presenting.....One of the Year's most Popular Events during the Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance at the Ritz-Carlton (Weekend of 3/7, 8 and 9/08) with something VERY special this year (info below in green)
The "Fifth Annual Officers Dinner"
Friday evening, March 7th, 2008
Start off the Amelia Island Concours weekend with a tribute to the dedicated Officers of MBCA. All our National, Regional and Section officers are invited, as well as all MBCA members and their guests attending the popular Amelia Island Concours. Space is limited so don't delay. Spend Friday evening with us and take advantage of this rare and unique opportunity to meet your Club's leaders and lots of other members from all over the country on Amelia Island for a gourmet multi course dinner at the beautiful "Fireplace Room" at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, overlooking the course where the cars would be shown on Sunday.

There will be speakers, door prizes, favors, raffles and lots of fun!!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Some of you might already know that the theme of the Amelia Island Concours this year is the Centennial Celebration (1908 - 2008) of the "Great Automobile Race from New York to Paris" in 1908 and the Thomas Flyer automobile.

George Schuster, in his 1907 Thomas Flyer was the winner, completing the journey of 22,000 miles in 169 days. That same 1907 Flyer will be at the Concours for all to see.I am very pleased to announce that the great-grandson of George Schuster will be joining us at our dinner and will tell us many stories of his great-grandfather's adventures on the race and will have much memorabilia to show us.

He will also have for sale the limited edition book "The Great Automobile Race-New York to Paris 1908", which he will autograph. The 85 pages include details of the car and race events as well as numerous original photographs.

The race began in Times Square, NYC on February 12, 1908 with a crowd of 250,000 cheering them on. It would become the longest automobile race in history, often with no roads and in the dead of winter. The race ended in Paris at 6PM on July 30th. Schuster won by 26 days ahead of the Germans who took second place. When Schuster and his Flyer made their triumphant return to New York, he was welcomed with a ticker tape parade.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last year we had 65 attendees from 20 different Sections. We had 4 National Officers, 3 Regional Directors, 13 Section Officers and our new Club liaison with MBUSA, Valentine O'Connor.
Deadline for registration is 2/21/08.
ALL the details at
http://groups.msn.com/SouthernStarsSectionMBCA/yourwebpage3.msnw

The menu for this year's Officer's Dinner is now on the website at:

http://groups.msn.com/SouthernStarsSectionMBCA/officersdinnermenu2008.msnw

Call or e mail Jackie Manson, Pres. at (912) 635-3996 whitestars@msn.com

See some past Officer's Dinners at
http://www.southernstarsmbca.com

NON CLUB MEMBERS ARE WELCOME.....MEMBERS, BRING GUESTS

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Surfing The Parts Counter Girl

vwnate1 wrote:

>
> It'll always be the cleavage for me.... =8-) .
>
> -Nate
>
> (
>
>
Hers or yours????? Max

>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Mercedes & SAFETY

vwnate1 wrote:

>
>
> I go to _lots_ of junkyards (three just this morning) so I get to
> see , close up and personal , the remains of crashed Mercedes ~ some
> are _really_ badly wrecked .
>
> It is very rare for me to find a car with signs of death in it , few
> have any blood or tissues , the passenger compartment remains
> amazingly intact even after being rear ended hard enough to drive the
> rear bumper almost against the back of the rear seat .
>
> Even old , battered rusted out Ghetto Mercedes fare extremely well in
> major traffic collisions .
>
> So , if you have children , continue fixing your old Mercedes and
> drive defensively .
>
> -Nate
> Daniel Wrote :
> Greetings,
>
>
One of my boys, I bought him a nice 240 to drive. Slow and safe. Didnt
last too long for him, now he wants one of those STI Subaru turbo's with
about 400 HP. Geeezzz. Happy Spring, its above freezing, wet snow. Max

>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] More Heater Fun

O.K. , I found my heater fluid pipes all clogged up yesterday , I
began testing the Klima I servo on the car , the electrical portion of
it works fine but the vauum part is toast (I think) , will need to
dismount it to do some bench testing soon , once I learn this stuff
I'll write up some how to's and post them in the files section .

The (sort of) good part is ? the heater finnaly stopped cooking the
interior , I wasn't happy last week in the 42° rain but to - day L.A.
is 85 + ° so I was able to enjoy the cool air blowing out the
dashboard vents.....

Spring is right around the corner......

I hope Newdlheadd is O.K. and gets out soon .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Surfing The Parts Counter Girl

It'll always be the cleavage for me.... =8-) .

-Nate

(growing older but NOT up)

Max wrote:
>
> Is that a genuine Mercedes part in your pocket, or you just happy
to
> > see her, or her cleavage??? Max _,_._,___
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 80 Amp. Alternator ~ $69.99 On E-Bay

$65.00 ' rebuilds ' are in fact , _always_ just cleaned up and
_maybe_ new brushes added ~ they won't have new bearings etc.- I've
used and sold , a lot of $65.00 alternators over the years as some
customers insist on them , I don't handle this typ if low end parts
usually as they tend to come back in a year or so and you can bet ,
the customer never remembers they insisted on a cheapo part ,
they'll blame _YOU_ ~ the " bad mechanic I went to last time " .

" the bitterness of low quality is remembered long after the
sweetness of low price has been forgotton " .

Go look at the price of the parts needed to make it truely " like
new " , it is more than $65.00 jobber price (lower than you'll ever
get) and then there's labor , shop overhead and on and on...

I am _NOT_ bagging on you here Darryl , just laying out the facts .
most of the time , I'll go junkyard hunting until I find a recently
rebuilt unit on a smasher and then only pay $30.00 for it , I'm a
Yankee through and through , I _never_ get up off a dime unless I'm
sure of good dollar value .

-Nate
Darryl wrote:
>
> I must be missing something. It's 65-75 bucks to get your
alternator completely rebuilt locally here. It looks like new, is
guaranteed etc. Why are you guys spending more doing it this way?
Also, Check with the MBUSA classic center and you can find out which
gasser alternators fit the 123-126 series. Those alternators are
modern, made by Bosch and totally rebuildable. In a lot of cases
they go cheap because people don't know about interchangeability.

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[diesel_mercedes] Mercedes & SAFETY

I go to _lots_ of junkyards (three just this morning) so I get to
see , close up and personal , the remains of crashed Mercedes ~ some
are _really_ badly wrecked .

It is very rare for me to find a car with signs of death in it , few
have any blood or tissues , the passenger compartment remains
amazingly intact even after being rear ended hard enough to drive the
rear bumper almost against the back of the rear seat .

Even old , battered rusted out Ghetto Mercedes fare extremely well in
major traffic collisions .

So , if you have children , continue fixing your old Mercedes and
drive defensively .

-Nate
Daniel Wrote :
Greetings,

Great post!

I was aware that MB was safety conscious in design and
engineering but I had never heard of the post fatal
accident investigative dissection.

I just thought it was things like unibody construction
with crumple zones, wrap around indicators, and disc
brakes.

Thanks!
daniel ... "Liesel" '84 300D Turbo

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Retrun spring in door latch.

?? not sure ~ are you asking about the outside door handle or the
latch proper ? .

Both are very simple to dismount & repair or replace with good used ,
you can easily swap the lock cylinder over if the handle is the fault .

Inner door panel must needs be removed for any of this however .

Have some aerosol glue ready to re - attach the plastic sheet again ,
you _don't_ want to leave this important piece off ! .

This is a _serious_ safety issue , I urge you to fix it quickly before
a disaster ocurrs .

-Nate
Lawrence wrote:
>
> I have a drivers door that you must return the latch by hand by
pulling on the door knob then letting go to reset the latch. I can
see inside where the spring is hanging I can sort of push it but is
that little hole on the side of the latch for a special tool to clip
the spring back on to its perch? I had it all apart but couldn't
seperate the door handle from the lock/latch. Lawrence Rhodes.......
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information

Not all diesel engines are sleeved. My B5.9 Cummins is not and the
coolant is green.

dknig288@comcast.net wrote:
> I am passing on information gained from another individual. The green color is normally coolant for an automobile engine (gas engine) and it is not formulated for diesel engines. For diesel engines you have two types of coolants --- one with SCAs (Supplemental Coolant Additives) and one with OATs (Organic Acid Technology).
>
>
> Dave Knight
> dknig288@comcast.net
> Hook'em Horns 1969
> 2002 Ultimate Advantage - 36C, 350 HP Cummins 8.3, Allison transmission
>
>
>
>> : >
>> : > ----- Original Message -----
>> : > From: Joe
>> : > To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
>> : > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:22 AM
>> : > Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information
>> : >
>> : >
>> : > My Country Coach Intrigue came with coolant that was green. I
>> : > repleaced a radiator in a friends MH and bought some coolant from
>> : > Cummins 50/50 mix and it was blue. Had some left over and used it in
>> : > my MH. That's gone and I bought some heavy duty coolant for trucks
>> : > 50/50 and it's orange. Looked at the specs and all said they could be
>> : > used with any other coolant. What's the difference.
>> : >
>> : > Joe
>> : > 98 Country Coach Intrigue
>> :
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information

I am passing on information gained from another individual. The green color is normally coolant for an automobile engine (gas engine) and it is not formulated for diesel engines. For diesel engines you have two types of coolants --- one with SCAs (Supplemental Coolant Additives) and one with OATs (Organic Acid Technology).

Diesel engines have cylinder liners and a condition known as cavitation occurs within the each cylinder while they are running. Without getting into a lot of detail, if the liners are not protected from cavitation (by using the right coolant), over time, holes will develop in the liners and then one is looking at rebuilding an engine. This situation is not present in a gas engine as the cooling system is designed differently as is the blocks of the engines and the way they are cooled.

Fleet Charge (made by Old World Industries) is a purplish/pink color and is a SCA coolant. The inital charge with this coolant contains the proper amount of SCAs already in the containers you purchase. You dilute it 50/50 with distilled water and charge your system with it. With use, the SCAs will "wear out" so, every six months or so with increased usage (mileage) you need to check the SCA level with test strips. If the SCAs are low, then you can add SCA additives to your coolant system to bring them back up to the proper levels. On my Cummins 8.3 the water filter that I have in place comes with SCA additives in it to help supplement the coolant as I drive. You can purchase water filters with different levels of "pre-charged" SCAs depending upon the size of your coolant system. If you change to an OAT system (described below), you can buy filters without any SCA "pre-charge."

Fleetguard has come out with another SCA coolant, ES Compleat EG. This coolant is blue and it uses a different chemical to safeguard the liners from cavitation. The chemical is different than the one in the purplish/pink described above and would not be compatable with each other (different chemicals). This coolant's SCAs will last longer but, they still need to be checked and when depleted, appropriate SCA additives need to be added. Again, this will not be the same SCA additives as used above.

There is another coolant that has recently been released. It is named Final Charge and it is a reddish color. This coolant is not SCA based -- it is OAT formulated. There are no chemical ingredients in it that would affect liner pitting. This coolant is said to be good for 600,000 miles or 6 years. It does require an extender to be added at 300,000 or three years. Mixing this coolant with any of the SCA coolants can be detrimental to the OAT coolant formula and visa versa. I have heard that the OAT can accept up to a 25% contamination but I would not want to risk that. If it is above that, then the system needs to be drained, flushed, and properly refilled. The only other coolant that I am aware of that is compatable with the Final Charge is Fleetguard ES Optimax which is also reddish in color.

I am sure that others may have a better explanation on coolants but, I would not mix any colors as each of the colors tend to indicate the quality/type of coolant and each will not be compatable with another color. I definantely would not use a green colored coolant in a diesel engine as that is the common color for coolant for gasoline engines --- not diesel engines and will not protect at all against cavitation which will destroy a diesel engine.

Dave Knight
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969
2002 Ultimate Advantage - 36C, 350 HP Cummins 8.3, Allison transmission

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Russ Waterhouse" <mredsel890@earthlink.net>

> OK, My curiosity is up, What do the colors mean and why not mix them? Does the
> radiator
> prefer yellow over Red?
> Russ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 7:59 PM
> Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information
>
>
> : You do not want to mix the colors.
> :
> : --
> : Dave Knight
> : dknig288@comcast.net
> : Hook'em Horns 1969
> :
> : -------------- Original message --------------
> : From: "SF"
> :
> : > I hope I read further and folks tell you not to mix the colors.
> : > SF
> : >
> : >
> : > ----- Original Message -----
> : > From: Joe
> : > To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
> : > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:22 AM
> : > Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information
> : >
> : >
> : > My Country Coach Intrigue came with coolant that was green. I
> : > repleaced a radiator in a friends MH and bought some coolant from
> : > Cummins 50/50 mix and it was blue. Had some left over and used it in
> : > my MH. That's gone and I bought some heavy duty coolant for trucks
> : > 50/50 and it's orange. Looked at the specs and all said they could be
> : > used with any other coolant. What's the difference.
> : >
> : > Joe
> : > 98 Country Coach Intrigue
> : >
> : >
> : >
> : >
> : >
> : > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> : >
> : >
> : >
> : > --------------------------------------------
> : > Off-topic posts will be removed.
> : > Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
> you
> : > have.
> : >
> : > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> : > Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> : >
> : > Yahoo! Groups Links
> : >
> : >
> : >
> :
> : [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> :
> :
> :
> : --------------------------------------------
> : Off-topic posts will be removed.
> : Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you
> have.
> :
> : To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
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> :
> : Yahoo! Groups Links
> :
> :
> :
> :
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
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>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Jim; Unless I have CRS really bad, the pumpkin has to come out
before you can remove the pinion.

Phil Carrell

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "JIM FLUCKEY" <jflu653@...> wrote:
>
> Sure there is, think 9" Ford. You can pull the pinion by removing
the
> surround bolts on the pinion flange and just remove the pinion and
bearings
> without disturbing the ring gear or the axles. Most big truck and
MH third
> members are set up this way on a larger scale.
> Jim & Sally Fluckey
> 2001 40' Allegro Bus
> Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TVNAV.com" <GPS@...>
> To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 11:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
>
>
> > I can't remember ever seeing a rear end that the pinion could
be
> > removed
> > without removing the axles.
> >
> > Darrel Goheen
> > PressurePro@...
> >

http://www.tvnav.com/pressurepro.html
> > Voice 785-625-3546/FAX 413-383-8800
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "wayne KINGSTON" <welleking@...>
> > To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:04 PM
> > Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
> >
> >
> >> KEN,
> >> I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking
about. would
> >> you explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed
with out
> >> pulling the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions
seem to
> >> always be dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E
Kingston '95
> >> EXEC/4runner in Gila Bend
> >>
> >>
> >> ---------------------------------
> >> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo!
Mobile. Try
> >> it
> >> now.
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --------------------------------------------
> >> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> >> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
RV model
> >> you have.
> >>
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> >> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------
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> > you have.
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> >
> >
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information

OK, My curiosity is up, What do the colors mean and why not mix them? Does the radiator
prefer yellow over Red?
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: <dknig288@comcast.net>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information

: You do not want to mix the colors.
:
: --
: Dave Knight
: dknig288@comcast.net
: Hook'em Horns 1969
:
: -------------- Original message --------------
: From: "SF" <sf@jeepshots.com>
:
: > I hope I read further and folks tell you not to mix the colors.
: > SF
: >
: >
: > ----- Original Message -----
: > From: Joe
: > To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
: > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:22 AM
: > Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information
: >
: >
: > My Country Coach Intrigue came with coolant that was green. I
: > repleaced a radiator in a friends MH and bought some coolant from
: > Cummins 50/50 mix and it was blue. Had some left over and used it in
: > my MH. That's gone and I bought some heavy duty coolant for trucks
: > 50/50 and it's orange. Looked at the specs and all said they could be
: > used with any other coolant. What's the difference.
: >
: > Joe
: > 98 Country Coach Intrigue
: >
: >
: >
: >
: >
: > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
: >
: >
: >
: > --------------------------------------------
: > Off-topic posts will be removed.
: > Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you
: > have.
: >
: > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
: > Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
: >
: > Yahoo! Groups Links
: >
: >
: >
:
: [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:
:
:
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:
:
:
:

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 80 Amp. Alternator ~ $69.99 On E-Bay

yeah, some do that,,,,,some tractors also.
two batteries, that is.......12/24 volt.

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Max" <max@ispvip.biz>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] 80 Amp. Alternator ~ $69.99 On E-Bay

> vwnate1 wrote:
>
>>
>> O.K. , here's a link to an Automotive Electric Rebuilder who's
>> selling out stock on FleaBay :
>>
>> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?>
>>
>>
> I really liked Karl's idea about having two batteries, one for glowing
> and one for starting. When I had a 1962 VW with 6-volt, it was worthless
> for starting in real cold weather. I put in a 8-volt battery, probably
> adjusted up the regulator a bit, can't remember, but it would start
> dandy. Miserable car for snow country. Dont some trucks have two battery
> systems, 12 volt for running the rig and 24 volt for starting??? Seems
> like I've heard that. Max
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Coolant Information

Getting varried inputs from a number of folks on this and other
forums + from a place where I get the MH serviced. The orange stuff
ie Fleetguard 50/50 HD. It says it mixes with all technologies.
One mechanic says mixing will turn coolant acidic, I've checked ph
at least 1/yr and always in range. I'll research this more. I'm
sure Cummins will say use only Cummins. Bought some Cummins a few
years ago when I changed out a friends radiator, >$20/gal.
Fleetguard HD is $19/gal at Napa and abt $10/gal at WalMart.

Joe98 Country Coach

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, dknig288@... wrote:
>
> You do not want to mix the colors.
>
> --
> Dave Knight
> dknig288@...
> Hook'em Horns 1969
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "SF" <sf@...>
>
> > I hope I read further and folks tell you not to mix the colors.
> > SF
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Joe
> > To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:22 AM
> > Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information
> >
> >
> > My Country Coach Intrigue came with coolant that was green. I
> > repleaced a radiator in a friends MH and bought some coolant
from
> > Cummins 50/50 mix and it was blue. Had some left over and used
it in
> > my MH. That's gone and I bought some heavy duty coolant for
trucks
> > 50/50 and it's orange. Looked at the specs and all said they
could be
> > used with any other coolant. What's the difference.
> >
> > Joe
> > 98 Country Coach Intrigue
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------
> > Off-topic posts will be removed.
> > Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
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> > have.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> > Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 80 Amp. Alternator ~ $69.99 On E-Bay

vwnate1 wrote:

>
> O.K. , here's a link to an Automotive Electric Rebuilder who's
> selling out stock on FleaBay :
>
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?>
>
>
I really liked Karl's idea about having two batteries, one for glowing
and one for starting. When I had a 1962 VW with 6-volt, it was worthless
for starting in real cold weather. I put in a 8-volt battery, probably
adjusted up the regulator a bit, can't remember, but it would start
dandy. Miserable car for snow country. Dont some trucks have two battery
systems, 12 volt for running the rig and 24 volt for starting??? Seems
like I've heard that. Max

>
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Gary,
You cannot remove the "Pumpkin" unless you are working on a Ford. Almost the rest are
built into the entire axel housing, this is why the front (rear on front engine rigs)
cover is there. To do the shimming - adjusting. Ford did make it easier, and those that
have a removable pumpkin will not have a removable cover. If I remember correctly however,
there were some truck rear ends that had the ring of bolts around the outer edge of the
"Pumpkin", on the drive shaft side, which means, yes, you do have to remove the axels to
check the ring gear. The pinion gear comes out the drive shaft side.
http://www.streettrucksmag.com/content/view/68/38/ This link shows the Chevrolet pickup
rear end, gears are in the axel housing, no pumpkin to remove. I think if you look at your
Jeep, it has cover plates, cannot remove the pumpkin.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Van Der Starre" <garybtt@msn.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RE: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

: To my mechanical knowledge the whole pumpkin must be removed and the axles
: most definitely must be pulled out of the rear.
:
:
:
: Gerrit (Gary) Van Der Starre
:
: 2006 Horizon 2008 Jeep Wrangler
:
: Home Base Rochester, NY
:
: _____
:
: From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
: Behalf Of wayne KINGSTON
: Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:05 PM
: To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
: Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
:
:
:
: KEN,
: I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking about. would you
: explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed with out pulling
: the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions seem to always be
: dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E Kingston '95 EXEC/4runner in Gila
: Bend
:
: ---------------------------------
: Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
: now.
:
: [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:
:
:
:
:
: [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:
:
:
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Auxiliary Water Pump

Max wrote:

> Jeff Fennema wrote:
>
> > > Question is, how did you negotiate the 10% discount?
> > >
> > Parts girl has a thing for older Mercs, and the guys who fix 'em, I
> guess.
> > It was just given to me, I never asked.
> > Jeff
> >
> >
>
>
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> see her, or her cleavage??? Max _,_._,___

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Wayne,
The thought was the shop was going to remove the front cover to look at the pinion
bearings. It does no good. Please read my entire post before commenting. Thanks. Yes, the
only way the pinion comes out is the drive shaft side, not the front cover side.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "wayne KINGSTON" <welleking@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 6:04 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

: KEN,
: I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking about. would you explain to
Russ and others how the pinion can be removed with out pulling the axles. I would attempt
it my self but my opinions seem to always be dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E
Kingston '95 EXEC/4runner in Gila Bend
:
:
: ---------------------------------
: Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
:
: [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:
:
:
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:
:
:
:

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 80 Amp. Alternator ~ $69.99 On E-Bay

I must be missing something. It's 65-75 bucks to get your alternator completely rebuilt locally here. It looks like new, is guaranteed etc. Why are you guys spending more doing it this way? Also, Check with the MBUSA classic center and you can find out which gasser alternators fit the 123-126 series. Those alternators are modern, made by Bosch and totally rebuildable. In a lot of cases they go cheap because people don't know about interchangeability.

On Sat, 09 Feb 2008 01:25:59 -0000, vwnate1 wrote
> O.K. , here's a link to an Automotive Electric Rebuilder who's
> selling out stock on FleaBay :
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AFSEL%3AUS%
> 3A1123&viewitem=&item=360021766381
>
> $69.99 outright , plus $25.00 freight .
>
> If that link is bad , the item @ is :
>
> 360021766381
>
> Simply copy & paste it .
>
> This is the very same one I am installing into myDiesel Coupe , one
> of these days .
>
> -Nate
>
>

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