[diesel_mercedes] 300td injector rebuild

 

Folks


I've been struggling with a no start condition for a month or two. My car will only start with a shot of ether. Glow plugs and system are good. I've been too lazy to adjust the valves but i replaced one injector 6 weeks ago with an unknown used and it ran better but still no starying joy.

I had the removed injector tested over Christmas and it had a bad narrow spray pattern squirt.

I finally located a reasonably priced KIKI injector tester (made in japan) on craigslist in abeline, texas and talked the seller into shipping it to georgia. A great investment!!

This weekend we had a rare 2 days of around 70 f highs, so it was the time to do it.

So i collected a junk set of injectors out of a 240 and added my spare. Incidentally they popped at 1500 to 16oo lbs. I washed them in gas and then disassembled them all and then threw everything but the nozzles into the ultrasonic cleaner. Then i installed new monark nozzles and reassembled. I fiddled with shims and set them all to pop at 2050 lbs, usually with only one try. I used a digital caliper on the shims to figure out what thickness to add or subtract. 

I swapped the rebuilt injectors for the ones in the car. Is there some trick to removing the heat shields. I couldn't get the old ones out, so i just reused them.

I still don't know if it will start cold, but MAN what an improvement. I'd say i have 20% more power and acceleration is much more immediate. The lope in the idle went away and it's just much smoother and it was pretty smooth even with the goofy injectors.

To keep some required airplane content, i test drove it out to AHN and talked planes with a member of the us aerobatic team. While i was there i took a call from my friend jay who is a watch repairman (watch content).

I'll keep you posted on whether it will cold start. And yes, i've been running the 1982 300td on WVO for going on 4 or 5 years!! The monarks are supposed to be better for WVO and they are really made in germany.

I'm sending this to the Peugeot list, too, because i'm sure the injector improvement will help a peugeot diesel with Bosch injectors, just are much!


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sylvia - '84 300 SD - e-demon caught red handed - She's not dead Jim (revived!)

 

On 1/30/2011 10:07 PM, Barton wrote:

 

Good news - Sylvia has risen from the dead and joined the land of the living again.

Earlier today I wrote two longish posts following up from everyone's suggestions and saying thank you and that I still had starting issues. Of course I sent them from the wrong email account, so of course they bounced back.

The good news is now those posts are now obsolete - I believe I found the problem today. Previous posts may have led you to believe the car was parked in random driveway - it actually made it back home before becoming a zombie. So today we pushed it into the garage for a quick "one last peek" before succumbing to the charms of my AAA membership.

Here's what I learned:

Wiggling, removing and re-connecting the alternator wire did NOT make any difference, but I did determine that if you forget to put it back on, you'll get the same basic behavior as before - car will be electrically dead (at least that's how this car behaved).

HOWEVER...

Wiggling and tugging gently on the wiring harness that goes to the starter made a world of difference. Tug one way you get nothing. Pull gently another way and you get electrons flowing, lights on, buzzers buzzing, but still no cranking action. Tug yet again, and voila, she starts and runs like always.

It's now back at the mechanic who did the glow plugs and suspension work. I'm guessing that whatever work was done was enough to make the circuit reliable enough for a few days, then it went back to its old tricks again once things "settled down". It's clearly not their fault - it was working the whole time they had it. I told them to chase it if it happened, but it never did. Yet another hallmark of an honest mechanic is one that only does what you ask them to do - nothing more, nothing less.

I don't know which wire and I don't know why, but I do know that if I change the state of that part of the wiring harness enough, it will go from no electricity to bright lights everywhere and instant start - so I'm hoping that's the source of the current (pardon the pun) problem. I do know that it's a solvable problem, and hopefully not too expensive.

I did watch Kent's latest video - very illuminating, :^) and gave me the "courage" I needed to go follow the harness myself and start looking for trouble.

I found the wiring block on the right side rail, but my wires aren't all the same colors as described. I do have two red wires coming in, but they are wired to the same screw/terminal? There was a larger yellow/white braided wire. Whatever the case, all the wires there looked in decent shape w/out unusual patina/aging, little corrosion.

However, for future reference, I DEFINITELY want to know how to hotwire/start this thing w/out a working ignition switch (of course I will still need working key to release steering lock) - so I will send some pics of my car with that wiring block cover exposed (when it's back) and ask if someone can spell it out so even I can do it :^)

Some new questions:

1). Is it possible to order replacement wiring harness components? i.e. like the set of wires going from the battery + terminal to the starter itself? Or is it better to bypass and wire with new, fabricated "patches" into the wiring harness?

2). Specifically, I also went through the glowplug harness connections. While all the terminals and glowplugs are shiny and new as they should be, the original harness is still in place and there may be exposed wires, the plastic coating is definitely cooked and most likely original. It looks like these five wires lead into a single plug on the left fender where the glow plug fuse is. Can I have this part of the wiring harness rebuilt, or can I buy it?

thx in advance, fingers crossed this was the problem and back to normal weirdness soon..

As above, thanks to all for your replies - and yes, I did try firmly shutting (but not slamming) all four doors, the trunk and the hood and all had zero effect once the car went "dead".

-Barton

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> On 1/28/2011 1:41 PM, bartonfiske wrote:
> >
> > Sylvia has officially kicked the electrical ignition bucket - one of
> > her intermittent demon personalities that has been lurking but not
> > exerting her momentum buzz-killing powers until yesterday. Drove car
> > to appointment, parked in driveway and there she sits.
> >
> > Problem has been previously overcome simply by opening and closing the
> > driver side door. Pretty cool tech, no? Something in that part of the
> > car then falls into place and it will start and operate "normally."
> > Alas no more. Open/shut - nothing. Car is electrically dead - no
> > lights, no radio, no power - nada.
> >
> > Battery has full charge - cables/leads to ground and starter are
> > believed to be ok. Been through the fuse box, pulled every relay,
> > turned and aligned every fuse. Have not been under the car to look at
> > starter leads and probably won't in favor of having it towed to a shop
> > that knows way more about debugging this problem than I do (and time
> > for right now).
> >
> > Sometimes, if you're lucky and put the key in and advance to pre-start
> > position, the "diags" and alarm buzzer noises for seatbelt/lights will
> > sound, the glowplug light cycles, and as usual the alarms time out -
> > i.e. the car works electrically, but still nothing when you hit the
> > ignition to start. No click, no noise whatsoever.
> >
> > Attaching a fully charged jumper pack to the battery does nothing, and
> > charging the battery does no good as it's already charged. Been
> > through all the "obvious" parts of the wiring harness near the glow
> > plug "fuse" on driver side, and the leads from the battery on the
> > passenger side. When the glow plugs were replaced, the wiring harness
> > was inspected at that time and visually didn't appear to have any
> > problems.
> >
> > Sigh...back to the land of the unreliable...trying to stay secure in
> > the knowledge that if this problem gets fixed, the rest of the car
> > should be back to normal long enough to be worth fixing this current
> > predicament..
> >
> > Really grimacing as I put the '78 99 Saab 99T through another New
> > England winter.....I promised her I wouldn't do this, that Sylvia
> > would take the load off....
> >
> > -Barton
> >
> > (tips/tricks welcomed...)
> >
> >
> Maybe you should try a different door.
>

Sounds like you need to clean and tighten the connections to the starter as a first step.  Also consider a secondary engine to chassis ground strap as has been suggested in previous responses.  The connections on the right fender well tie into the alternator and the starter so make doubly sure that all is well there.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sylvia - '84 300 SD - e-demon caught red handed - She's not dead Jim (revived!)

 

On 1/30/2011 10:20 PM, BStromsoe wrote:

 
To add to Barton's wiring question - I have considered replacing (i.e., rewiring) "some_most_all" of my almost 30 year old wiring. Anyone ever done such a thing?
 
brian from la verne, ca



Some new questions:


1). Is it possible to order replacement wiring harness components? i.e. like the set of wires going from the battery + terminal to the starter itself? Or is it better to bypass and wire with new, fabricated "patches" into the wiring harness?

2). Specifically, I also went through the glowplug harness connections. While all the terminals and glowplugs are shiny and new as they should be, the original harness is still in place and there may be exposed wires, the plastic coating is definitely cooked and most likely original. It looks like these five wires lead into a single plug on the left fender where the glow plug fuse is. Can I have this part of the wiring harness rebuilt, or can I buy it?

thx in advance, fingers crossed this was the problem and back to normal weirdness soon..

As above, thanks to all for your replies - and yes, I did try firmly shutting (but not slamming) all four doors, the trunk and the hood and all had zero effect once the car went "dead".

-Barton

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> On 1/28/2011 1:41 PM, bartonfiske wrote:
> >
> > Sylvia has officially kicked the electrical ignition bucket - one of
> > her intermittent demon personalities that has been lurking but not
> > exerting her momentum buzz-killing powers until yesterday. Drove car
> > to appointment, parked in driveway and there she sits.
> >
> > Problem has been previously overcome simply by opening and closing the
> > driver side door. Pretty cool tech, no? Something in that part of the
> > car then falls into place and it will start and operate "normally."
> > Alas no more. Open/shut - nothing. Car is electrically dead - no
> > lights, no radio, no power - nada.
> >
> > Battery has full charge - cables/leads to ground and starter are
> > believed to be ok. Been through the fuse box, pulled every relay,
> > turned and aligned every fuse. Have not been under the car to look at
> > starter leads and probably won't in favor of having it towed to a shop
> > that knows way more about debugging this problem than I do (and time
> > for right now).
> >
> > Sometimes, if you're lucky and put the key in and advance to pre-start
> > position, the "diags" and alarm buzzer noises for seatbelt/lights will
> > sound, the glowplug light cycles, and as usual the alarms time out -
> > i.e. the car works electrically, but still nothing when you hit the
> > ignition to start. No click, no noise whatsoever.
> >
> > Attaching a fully charged jumper pack to the battery does nothing, and
> > charging the battery does no good as it's already charged. Been
> > through all the "obvious" parts of the wiring harness near the glow
> > plug "fuse" on driver side, and the leads from the battery on the
> > passenger side. When the glow plugs were replaced, the wiring harness
> > was inspected at that time and visually didn't appear to have any
> > problems.
> >
> > Sigh...back to the land of the unreliable...trying to stay secure in
> > the knowledge that if this problem gets fixed, the rest of the car
> > should be back to normal long enough to be worth fixing this current
> > predicament..
> >
> > Really grimacing as I put the '78 99 Saab 99T through another New
> > England winter.....I promised her I wouldn't do this, that Sylvia
> > would take the load off....
> >
> > -Barton
> >
> > (tips/tricks welcomed...)
> >
> >
> Maybe you should try a different door.
>


When I disassembled a 123, in addition to pulling the complete heater assembly, I pulled the wiring.  Actually , as I remember it I pulled the underdash and engine compartment  wires and cut off the wires leading to the rear part of the car.  I haven't tried or had the need to wire another car with what I pulled out, but sections of the wiring and connectors have come in handy.  There are companies selling reproduction wiring systems, but I haven't noticed one for a 123.  You could Google it.

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Literature

 


All we need is _one_ then we'd just click on " see sellers other items " to see them all .

-Nate
Alan wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> You're right, but I listed 16 items. Sloth and indifference is the
> watchword. Search under literature for the model you want. There are
> no 123 or 126 items, but there are 300Sl roadster and gullwing parts
> picture books if you need information to complete your restoration. I
> didn't realize how many pages of manuals are listed. By the way not
> listed but available is a xerox copy of the 700 shop manual in case you
> have one of those.
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sylvia - '84 300 SD - e-demon caught red handed - She's not dead Jim (revived!)

 

To add to Barton's wiring question - I have considered replacing (i.e., rewiring) "some_most_all" of my almost 30 year old wiring. Anyone ever done such a thing?
 
brian from la verne, ca



Some new questions:


1). Is it possible to order replacement wiring harness components? i.e. like the set of wires going from the battery + terminal to the starter itself? Or is it better to bypass and wire with new, fabricated "patches" into the wiring harness?

2). Specifically, I also went through the glowplug harness connections. While all the terminals and glowplugs are shiny and new as they should be, the original harness is still in place and there may be exposed wires, the plastic coating is definitely cooked and most likely original. It looks like these five wires lead into a single plug on the left fender where the glow plug fuse is. Can I have this part of the wiring harness rebuilt, or can I buy it?

thx in advance, fingers crossed this was the problem and back to normal weirdness soon..

As above, thanks to all for your replies - and yes, I did try firmly shutting (but not slamming) all four doors, the trunk and the hood and all had zero effect once the car went "dead".

-Barton

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> On 1/28/2011 1:41 PM, bartonfiske wrote:
> >
> > Sylvia has officially kicked the electrical ignition bucket - one of
> > her intermittent demon personalities that has been lurking but not
> > exerting her momentum buzz-killing powers until yesterday. Drove car
> > to appointment, parked in driveway and there she sits.
> >
> > Problem has been previously overcome simply by opening and closing the
> > driver side door. Pretty cool tech, no? Something in that part of the
> > car then falls into place and it will start and operate "normally."
> > Alas no more. Open/shut - nothing. Car is electrically dead - no
> > lights, no radio, no power - nada.
> >
> > Battery has full charge - cables/leads to ground and starter are
> > believed to be ok. Been through the fuse box, pulled every relay,
> > turned and aligned every fuse. Have not been under the car to look at
> > starter leads and probably won't in favor of having it towed to a shop
> > that knows way more about debugging this problem than I do (and time
> > for right now).
> >
> > Sometimes, if you're lucky and put the key in and advance to pre-start
> > position, the "diags" and alarm buzzer noises for seatbelt/lights will
> > sound, the glowplug light cycles, and as usual the alarms time out -
> > i.e. the car works electrically, but still nothing when you hit the
> > ignition to start. No click, no noise whatsoever.
> >
> > Attaching a fully charged jumper pack to the battery does nothing, and
> > charging the battery does no good as it's already charged. Been
> > through all the "obvious" parts of the wiring harness near the glow
> > plug "fuse" on driver side, and the leads from the battery on the
> > passenger side. When the glow plugs were replaced, the wiring harness
> > was inspected at that time and visually didn't appear to have any
> > problems.
> >
> > Sigh...back to the land of the unreliable...trying to stay secure in
> > the knowledge that if this problem gets fixed, the rest of the car
> > should be back to normal long enough to be worth fixing this current
> > predicament..
> >
> > Really grimacing as I put the '78 99 Saab 99T through another New
> > England winter.....I promised her I wouldn't do this, that Sylvia
> > would take the load off....
> >
> > -Barton
> >
> > (tips/tricks welcomed...)
> >
> >
> Maybe you should try a different door.
>


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[diesel_mercedes] Sylvia - '84 300 SD - e-demon caught red handed - She's not dead Jim (revived!)

 

Good news - Sylvia has risen from the dead and joined the land of the living again.

Earlier today I wrote two longish posts following up from everyone's suggestions and saying thank you and that I still had starting issues. Of course I sent them from the wrong email account, so of course they bounced back.

The good news is now those posts are now obsolete - I believe I found the problem today. Previous posts may have led you to believe the car was parked in random driveway - it actually made it back home before becoming a zombie. So today we pushed it into the garage for a quick "one last peek" before succumbing to the charms of my AAA membership.

Here's what I learned:

Wiggling, removing and re-connecting the alternator wire did NOT make any difference, but I did determine that if you forget to put it back on, you'll get the same basic behavior as before - car will be electrically dead (at least that's how this car behaved).

HOWEVER...

Wiggling and tugging gently on the wiring harness that goes to the starter made a world of difference. Tug one way you get nothing. Pull gently another way and you get electrons flowing, lights on, buzzers buzzing, but still no cranking action. Tug yet again, and voila, she starts and runs like always.

It's now back at the mechanic who did the glow plugs and suspension work. I'm guessing that whatever work was done was enough to make the circuit reliable enough for a few days, then it went back to its old tricks again once things "settled down". It's clearly not their fault - it was working the whole time they had it. I told them to chase it if it happened, but it never did. Yet another hallmark of an honest mechanic is one that only does what you ask them to do - nothing more, nothing less.

I don't know which wire and I don't know why, but I do know that if I change the state of that part of the wiring harness enough, it will go from no electricity to bright lights everywhere and instant start - so I'm hoping that's the source of the current (pardon the pun) problem. I do know that it's a solvable problem, and hopefully not too expensive.

I did watch Kent's latest video - very illuminating, :^) and gave me the "courage" I needed to go follow the harness myself and start looking for trouble.

I found the wiring block on the right side rail, but my wires aren't all the same colors as described. I do have two red wires coming in, but they are wired to the same screw/terminal? There was a larger yellow/white braided wire. Whatever the case, all the wires there looked in decent shape w/out unusual patina/aging, little corrosion.

However, for future reference, I DEFINITELY want to know how to hotwire/start this thing w/out a working ignition switch (of course I will still need working key to release steering lock) - so I will send some pics of my car with that wiring block cover exposed (when it's back) and ask if someone can spell it out so even I can do it :^)

Some new questions:

1). Is it possible to order replacement wiring harness components? i.e. like the set of wires going from the battery + terminal to the starter itself? Or is it better to bypass and wire with new, fabricated "patches" into the wiring harness?

2). Specifically, I also went through the glowplug harness connections. While all the terminals and glowplugs are shiny and new as they should be, the original harness is still in place and there may be exposed wires, the plastic coating is definitely cooked and most likely original. It looks like these five wires lead into a single plug on the left fender where the glow plug fuse is. Can I have this part of the wiring harness rebuilt, or can I buy it?

thx in advance, fingers crossed this was the problem and back to normal weirdness soon..

As above, thanks to all for your replies - and yes, I did try firmly shutting (but not slamming) all four doors, the trunk and the hood and all had zero effect once the car went "dead".

-Barton

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> On 1/28/2011 1:41 PM, bartonfiske wrote:
> >
> > Sylvia has officially kicked the electrical ignition bucket - one of
> > her intermittent demon personalities that has been lurking but not
> > exerting her momentum buzz-killing powers until yesterday. Drove car
> > to appointment, parked in driveway and there she sits.
> >
> > Problem has been previously overcome simply by opening and closing the
> > driver side door. Pretty cool tech, no? Something in that part of the
> > car then falls into place and it will start and operate "normally."
> > Alas no more. Open/shut - nothing. Car is electrically dead - no
> > lights, no radio, no power - nada.
> >
> > Battery has full charge - cables/leads to ground and starter are
> > believed to be ok. Been through the fuse box, pulled every relay,
> > turned and aligned every fuse. Have not been under the car to look at
> > starter leads and probably won't in favor of having it towed to a shop
> > that knows way more about debugging this problem than I do (and time
> > for right now).
> >
> > Sometimes, if you're lucky and put the key in and advance to pre-start
> > position, the "diags" and alarm buzzer noises for seatbelt/lights will
> > sound, the glowplug light cycles, and as usual the alarms time out -
> > i.e. the car works electrically, but still nothing when you hit the
> > ignition to start. No click, no noise whatsoever.
> >
> > Attaching a fully charged jumper pack to the battery does nothing, and
> > charging the battery does no good as it's already charged. Been
> > through all the "obvious" parts of the wiring harness near the glow
> > plug "fuse" on driver side, and the leads from the battery on the
> > passenger side. When the glow plugs were replaced, the wiring harness
> > was inspected at that time and visually didn't appear to have any
> > problems.
> >
> > Sigh...back to the land of the unreliable...trying to stay secure in
> > the knowledge that if this problem gets fixed, the rest of the car
> > should be back to normal long enough to be worth fixing this current
> > predicament..
> >
> > Really grimacing as I put the '78 99 Saab 99T through another New
> > England winter.....I promised her I wouldn't do this, that Sylvia
> > would take the load off....
> >
> > -Barton
> >
> > (tips/tricks welcomed...)
> >
> >
> Maybe you should try a different door.
>

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] BioDiesel

 

Works great for me…Just make sure all water and soap is out.

 

B100 temps 40F and up; B50+D50 25F-40F; B25+D75 15F-25F; D100 <15F

 

Ben near Detroit.

 


From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2011 3:04 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] BioDiesel

 

 



It *IS* possible to make BioDiesel work , you just have to work a bit extra at it .

-Nate
Nick Wrote :

Thanks for the info. Biodiesel is #1 on the list yet they are building diesels
now that can not run it properly. What a joke. It is not about going green, it
is about big oils "green"

Nick>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Open Highway Fuel Economy Via Drafting

 

On 1/30/2011 2:34 PM, Nate wrote:

 


Be aware this can be _DEADLY_ ! .

I *still* do it on occasion when I'm riding my Ural Moto over the grapevine etc. ,but I make sure there's little or no other traffic and I always draft on the left rear corner where the driver can *SEE* me there so if he makes _any_ indication he doesn't want me there , I drop off and find another truck

I usually use Highway Dept. trucks as they're not going anywhere fast and see enough road carnage to make the decision to allow me to draft or indicate I shouldn't .

If the truck you're drafting pops an air brake hose or drops it's drive shaft , YOU WILL DIE so make sure you understand the consequences before popping in behind a speeding Semi in your Subaru 360 or '54VW Beetle.....

I can't recall drafting in my 2CV AZ but I certainly did survive some *really* stupid things in it .

-Nate
Kevin wrote:
>
> I learned about that by getting my Citroen 2CV up to 65 MPH by drafting trucks on the Long Island Expressway
>
> And you lived to talk about it! The 2CV's are neat cars.
>
> Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
>

Actually my 2CV was a truckette which probably helped me to be sucked along.  The trailer DOT bar was about teeth level. I didn't say it wasn't stupid,  just another experiment in aerodynamics.  It would probably be effective in my Sprinter as well, but at 72 years old, I'd rather pay for the extra fuel.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Literature

 

On 1/30/2011 2:41 PM, Nate wrote:

 


A link would be helpful ......

-Nate
Alan wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I've just listed a batch of old manuals etc on Ebay. A couple of the
> > parts picture books cover the earlier diesels. eg: 220D/240D and
> > early SD.
> >
> >
> >
>
>

You're right, but I listed 16 items.  Sloth and indifference is the watchword.  Search under literature for the model you want.  There are no 123 or 126 items, but there are 300Sl roadster and gullwing  parts picture books if you need information to complete your restoration.  I didn't realize how many pages of manuals are listed.  By the way not listed but available is a xerox copy of the 700 shop manual in case you have one of those.

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 84 300T mileage

 


Smokes at idle ? .

You have a problem .

If it's white or blue smoke the engine needs work .

If it's black or grey smoke , it's overfueling .

-Nate
Carmine wrote:
>
> Rob,
> Thanks for the imput. Air filter is new, oil is new amsoil synthetic. Car only smokes slightly with idle and runs pretty smooth. Acceleration is goood for 125hp. It is super quiet when running either WVO or biogreasel. Straight biodiesel is also very quiet. We want to run a few different tanks through her this summer and test the mileage. 100% biodiesel vs 100% wvo vs 50/50 biogreasel. We may run through a tank of dinodiesel for grins. My son drives highway at about 65 to 70, same trip every day to school. We will post results later this year when it warms up.
>
> thanks, Nick
>
> PS. We seem to have a slight harmonic vibration at highway speeds. Anybody with any thoughts on that.
>
>

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