[diesel_mercedes] Re : Regarding Trish's 300D

 


Trish ;

If this is so , the engine is dead , don't wa$te a moment more on it .

Look around for a wrecked / rusted out 300D or 300DS and buy it cheaply & swap the engines out .

Be aware this is a big , _heavy_ job that'll cripple you if it gets the chance .

That's the cheapest way to go , bummer that orange Cowboy Boots guy was just another cheater .

It's very close to fish or cut bait time on this one , I wish you the best with it .

-Nate
Trish wrote:
>
> Hey I appreciate any answers! Thank you for taking the time to share your
> knowledge.
>
> Yeah that's exactly what it sounds like! I was able to record a few seconds
> on video yesterday. It's on our group site under videos, I think the name is
> Video 001 it has a subheading about Trish's 300D.
>
> Wow, what a pain. First things first. Find out what's wrong then decide the
> best route.
>
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : 240D Parts Car

 


Keep me posted ~ our '82 240D's drivetrain is mighty old & in need of MOH @ 360,000 + miles....

-Nate
Lawrence wrote:
>
> I don't know if anyone wants a project but my 83 240D was rearended.  The bike
> rack took most of the impact.  It may be salvaged but I'm trying to get the
> money from the insurance to fix the car.  If not I may sell.   It has 194k
> original miles and runs strong.  Tranny shifts perfect.  Running on synthetic
> fluid.  The rear lights still work but the bike rack came down on the trunk. 
> Put a big V there.  It's been running on Veg Oil since we got it 40k ago.  Has a
> Plant Drive kit I installed myself.  It's in San Francisco.  Could use an idler
> arm and there is an exhaust leak in a pipe under the air cleaner that needs to
> be welded.  All the locks, trunk & fuel door open, close, lock & unlock.  So the
> vacuum is still good.  You should see the other car.  Both air bags deployed. 
> Steam from the radiator.  They didn't drive home.  We've gone 500 miles since
> the accident.  God Bless Mercedes Diesels.  Lawrence Rhodes....
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Reply to Carl, regarding Trish's 300D

 

Hey I appreciate any answers!  Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.

Yeah that's exactly what it sounds like!  I was able to record a few seconds on video yesterday. It's on our group site under videos, I think the name is Video 001 it has a subheading about Trish's 300D.

Wow, what a pain. First things first. Find out what's wrong then decide the best route.


On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 8:01 PM, diyernh <diyernh@comcast.net> wrote:
 

Trish,

Sorry for the quick answers.  Lotsa work and stuff happening.

Did yours sound like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvZdLMAB5lo

Read the comments on the video.  Low oil, then threw the low end rod. 

The camshaft bearings are higher on the engine and do loose oil delivery first, but the camshaft turns at 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft.  There is only the pressure to open the valvesprings on the cam.  It will handle a while before it seizes.  The bearing on the top of the rod/piston only rocks back and forth about 30 degrees.  Not usually an issue.  The crankshaft to engine case bearings are next, they have pretty consistant pressure with all of the pistons firing.   The crankshaft to lower piston rod moves the most with some considerable banging from compression and power strokes.  That is why I'm guessing that's the problem.  (yeah, I did the same to an International Harvester 3616).

I haven't crawled under my 300D, I don't know what a pain it is to get the pan off.  From the internet, it appears like the pan is two sections.  The first section would be easy to pull.  The second section could mean pulling the engine.

You may not have much room to check the bearings with only the lower section removed.  If you can, you could try prying with a screwdriver to push the lower rods(bearings) back and forth.  If you see any looseness, then that needs to be replaced.  I have quickly checked and see the lower bearings are about 50$. 

Check out these others sites and you will see what the bearing caps look like,

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Change-The-Oil-Pan-On-a-1979-83-Mercedes-300/?ALLSTEPS
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617RearCrankRopeSeal
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SogAyxDFDgo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvZdLMAB5lo


If you desire to rip into the engine, then you can probably skip the kerosene leak test.  That was just to see if the front/rear bearings and seals were damaged.  The Kero will pour through them if they are damaged.   Below is a DIYer that pulled the crankshaft and swapped out the main bearings and rope seals.  If you do go that far, it would be sealed. 

The only thing you can't do are the things that you say you can't do.

There are perfectionists that would want you to restore 100%.  I am more practical.  Do what you need to and close it up to run it.  My brother pulled a piston out of a seized chevy Monza and arc welded the piston pin to the piston.  That car ran for 4 more years.  If you can do that to a disposable Chevy, you should get a few decades out of a Mercedes OM617.

Be safe, make sure you support the car WELL.  Use jackstands, not just the jack.  Don't buy cheap tools.  Let people know when you are out under the car just incase...

Carl



On 10/13/2011 5:56 PM, diyernh@comcast.net wrote:

 

The kerosene would go into the oil fill. It would be "thin oil" that would leak out easier than the thick cold oil.

You will be looking for leaks out of seals, gaskets etc.

After you drain it. Let it settle, then you can use it for fuel in the fueltank

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 09:50:04 -0500
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Reply to Carl, regarding Trish's 300D

 

Carl

What you say makes sense, to stop running the car since it does still run at this point.

Um, where am I supposed to pour the kerosene?  Gas tank?  And is there a particular type to buy?

Thanks for your advice. Fingers crossed that we can fix this easy & inexpensive.






--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Anyone want to buy my '81 300D? Not really. Just tell me what THIS sound is!

 


It happened to my car once. Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@...> wrote:
>
> good suggestion max. Don't ask me how... ok my son put gas in my diesel and sputter sputter bang bang.
>
> Chuck
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "max_stemple" <jasperezra@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > -- Sounds like a combination of no gas, which I have 1/2 a tank, and like it's going to explode and shoot bolts and other engine shrapnel everywhere.
> >
> > If you have gas in the tank, could be your problem. Max
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Anyone want to buy my '81 300D? Not really. Just tell me what THIS sound is!

 

good suggestion max. Don't ask me how... ok my son put gas in my diesel and sputter sputter bang bang.

Chuck
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "max_stemple" <jasperezra@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> -- Sounds like a combination of no gas, which I have 1/2 a tank, and like it's going to explode and shoot bolts and other engine shrapnel everywhere.
>
> If you have gas in the tank, could be your problem. Max
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 240D rearended.

 

to parapharase mr t pity the fool that runs into my mercedes, or that I run into.
Chuck

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@...> wrote:
>
> I don't know if anyone wants a project but my 83 240D was rearended.  The bike
> rack took most of the impact.  It may be salvaged but I'm trying to get the
> money from the insurance to fix the car.  If not I may sell.   It has 194k
> original miles and runs strong.  Tranny shifts perfect.  Running on synthetic
> fluid.  The rear lights still work but the bike rack came down on the trunk. 
> Put a big V there.  It's been running on Veg Oil since we got it 40k ago.  Has a
> Plant Drive kit I installed myself.  It's in San Francisco.  Could use an idler
> arm and there is an exhaust leak in a pipe under the air cleaner that needs to
> be welded.  All the locks, trunk & fuel door open, close, lock & unlock.  So the
> vacuum is still good.  You should see the other car.  Both air bags deployed. 
> Steam from the radiator.  They didn't drive home.  We've gone 500 miles since
> the accident.  God Bless Mercedes Diesels.  Lawrence Rhodes....
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Reply to Carl, regarding Trish's 300D

 

Trish,

Sorry for the quick answers.  Lotsa work and stuff happening.

Did yours sound like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvZdLMAB5lo

Read the comments on the video.  Low oil, then threw the low end rod. 

The camshaft bearings are higher on the engine and do loose oil delivery first, but the camshaft turns at 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft.  There is only the pressure to open the valvesprings on the cam.  It will handle a while before it seizes.  The bearing on the top of the rod/piston only rocks back and forth about 30 degrees.  Not usually an issue.  The crankshaft to engine case bearings are next, they have pretty consistant pressure with all of the pistons firing.   The crankshaft to lower piston rod moves the most with some considerable banging from compression and power strokes.  That is why I'm guessing that's the problem.  (yeah, I did the same to an International Harvester 3616).

I haven't crawled under my 300D, I don't know what a pain it is to get the pan off.  From the internet, it appears like the pan is two sections.  The first section would be easy to pull.  The second section could mean pulling the engine.

You may not have much room to check the bearings with only the lower section removed.  If you can, you could try prying with a screwdriver to push the lower rods(bearings) back and forth.  If you see any looseness, then that needs to be replaced.  I have quickly checked and see the lower bearings are about 50$. 

Check out these others sites and you will see what the bearing caps look like,

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Change-The-Oil-Pan-On-a-1979-83-Mercedes-300/?ALLSTEPS
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617RearCrankRopeSeal
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SogAyxDFDgo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvZdLMAB5lo


If you desire to rip into the engine, then you can probably skip the kerosene leak test.  That was just to see if the front/rear bearings and seals were damaged.  The Kero will pour through them if they are damaged.   Below is a DIYer that pulled the crankshaft and swapped out the main bearings and rope seals.  If you do go that far, it would be sealed. 

The only thing you can't do are the things that you say you can't do.

There are perfectionists that would want you to restore 100%.  I am more practical.  Do what you need to and close it up to run it.  My brother pulled a piston out of a seized chevy Monza and arc welded the piston pin to the piston.  That car ran for 4 more years.  If you can do that to a disposable Chevy, you should get a few decades out of a Mercedes OM617.

Be safe, make sure you support the car WELL.  Use jackstands, not just the jack.  Don't buy cheap tools.  Let people know when you are out under the car just incase...

Carl



On 10/13/2011 5:56 PM, diyernh@comcast.net wrote:

 

The kerosene would go into the oil fill. It would be "thin oil" that would leak out easier than the thick cold oil.

You will be looking for leaks out of seals, gaskets etc.

After you drain it. Let it settle, then you can use it for fuel in the fueltank

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 09:50:04 -0500
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Reply to Carl, regarding Trish's 300D

 

Carl

What you say makes sense, to stop running the car since it does still run at this point.

Um, where am I supposed to pour the kerosene?  Gas tank?  And is there a particular type to buy?

Thanks for your advice. Fingers crossed that we can fix this easy & inexpensive.



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Reply to Carl, regarding Trish's 300D

 

Thank you. Makes sense. 

On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 4:56 PM, <diyernh@comcast.net> wrote:
 

The kerosene would go into the oil fill. It would be "thin oil" that would leak out easier than the thick cold oil.

You will be looking for leaks out of seals, gaskets etc.

After you drain it. Let it settle, then you can use it for fuel in the fueltank

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 09:50:04 -0500
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Reply to Carl, regarding Trish's 300D

 

Carl

What you say makes sense, to stop running the car since it does still run at this point.

Um, where am I supposed to pour the kerosene?  Gas tank?  And is there a particular type to buy?

Thanks for your advice. Fingers crossed that we can fix this easy & inexpensive.





--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 220/240 D engine swap

 

You are right Henry, you have too much going on. Ship that 5 cyl turbo engine to me and I will keep it safe for you.
 
brian from la verne, ca
From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 1:47 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 220/240 D engine swap

Hi all,
anyone know, if the 240D engine will bolt up to the 4 spd trans, maybe
motormounts too, of a 220D?
220D is a 72.
Or, I wonder if the really nice turbo 5 cyl I have (83) will fit?

I'm thinking if I get the 220 on the road again, I'll surplus the 240 ('78,
4 spd) and maybe even the SDL......I gotta cut back......16 motorized
vehicles and equipment, are just too many........

*not really wondering why I'm still single*........hahahaaa


Henry









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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Reply to Carl, regarding Trish's 300D

 

The kerosene would go into the oil fill. It would be "thin oil" that would leak out easier than the thick cold oil.

You will be looking for leaks out of seals, gaskets etc.

After you drain it. Let it settle, then you can use it for fuel in the fueltank

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
Sender: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 09:50:04 -0500
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Reply to Carl, regarding Trish's 300D

 

Carl

What you say makes sense, to stop running the car since it does still run at this point.

Um, where am I supposed to pour the kerosene?  Gas tank?  And is there a particular type to buy?

Thanks for your advice. Fingers crossed that we can fix this easy & inexpensive.


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