Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

In a message dated 1/22/2008 6:12:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, RGPranin@aol.com writes:

I want to state for the record "Don't sweat it, It's cool"  this is totally not for profit. and legal.  Them suing me would make my day. The only way I can get payback is if they actually waste money on suing me 
 
Rodney, 
 
    I wouldn't presume to advise you on Admiralty Law, which is the only category of law I noticed you listed under by the Long Beach Bar Assn.  Not entertainment, intellectual property or copyrights. 
 
    It's a touchy subject right now, particularly with the Writers' Strike continuing.  I have clients who make their living by writing and/or performing.  None of them are real thrilled that modern technology makes it possible for anyone to copy their work and leave them unpaid. 
 
    There is room for "fair use", and for sharing manuals and other books.  But outright copying and distributing the copies, which appears to be what you were originally offering, goes beyond either fair use or sharing. 
 
    You may have a philosophical contempt for private property, or the rights of creative artists, or just for those people who write poor, misspelled, overpriced instructions.  But as an attorney, you should know better than most people that the law does not permit one to act on personal whim. 
 
    There are rules.  We are required to stop at traffic lights, even when we think we're fast enough to cross the intersection ahead of oncoming traffic.  We are not permitted to put ag fuel in our over-the-road vehicles, even if the gropenator is going to reduce the number of inspectors and increase our chances of getting away with it. 
 
    Individuals have the right to start and run their own businesses, for their own profit (or loss).  If that business is writing really bad instruction books for car repairs, the business may be subject to public criticism and advice not to buy the product.  But just because someone feels that the product is poorly made does not give that person the right to copy the product and sell or give it away in competition with the business that originated the product. 
 
    One of my clients was nominated for a 'Best Actor' Oscar this morning.  That client invests his time, energy and creative skill into transforming someone elses (sometimes his own) writing into theatrical presentations.  If everyone could just rip-off his performances with their home DVD writer, he, and the hundreds of other people involved in making his films would lose their income - lose their ability to create the performances, and deprive both them AND the audience of the opportunity to pursue their own interests. 
 
    Why should any individual's desire to lash out at a business they don't like be a justification from stealing the food from the mouths of the people who created that business, or the products from the customers who don't share the contempt of the critic? 
 
    Copyrights have a purpose, just as traffic laws do.  Why should any of us be permitted to pick and choose which laws we want to obey and which we want to flaunt? 
 
Tom




Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year.
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[Diesel-RVs] Mounting Solar Panels

Hi All,


I am about to mount 3 110 watt solar panels to our fiberglass roof
using 3M VHB tape acquired from AM Solar.

Is there anything I should be aware of before mounting these using this
tape?

Thanks for any information.


Rick Clark 2002 DSDP 3852, Spartan MM, Cummins ISC 350, '98 TJ Toad

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/rickca55/

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090792

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[diesel_mercedes] Ludwig Rides again! Torque spec for little allen-head head bolts?

The rebuilt head and turbo are in my 82 300CD.

Turbo blows 13psi and that is close to the upper limit of 13.25.

One remaining issue: I could never find the proper torque for the 3 little allen head head bolts and apparently did not torque them sufficiently as I have a leak between the head and the block at the back side of the little cul de sac that houses the chain. One is under the cruise control (which I am now glad I did not reinstall) and the other two are under the valve cover on the inside of the front facing portion of the head.

Does any one know the torque for the little head bolts



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[Diesel-RVs] Re: ceiling stain

Try some InstaGone. You can Google it, or find it on the As Seen On
TV website. This is what the dealers use to get the spots out in this
neck of the woods, and it is amazing! No trace of the brown stain
remains.

Tom O'Connor
Publisher, Western RV News & Recreation
37' Rexhall Roseair 2003


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc


The Merc is still here in Pedro. Been on jacks all this time.  I'm off to visit my old man in Hawaii on thursday and will be gone for a few.  It seems like I will never get the Merc done.  Why do my messages have extraneous letters before and after them? When I look at them I see >>>> and a letter A with a mark on top of it.  I can't stand it anymore.  

Richy

73 220D stick

-----Original Message-----
From: vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 11:11 am
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc


Richy ;

I'd love to have copies of ALL those books (I like technical info and
devour it)

Do I have to drive to Mariposa to test drive your Merc. ? . I can ,
just have to work it into my schedule .

-Nate
Richy wrote:
>
> You are correct, they suck.  The offer is still good. Anyone who
wants copies of Mercedessource books can get them from me for the
cost of copies and basic mail to get them wherever. Most of these
books from 5-15 dollars are nothing more than 10 or so pages of cheap
pictures and bad spelling. The important ones are the performance and
tuning, and the 75 MPH guide.  I am doing this because I feel ripped
off and do not want you guys spending your money (times are getting
tough) on this s**t.  These books will still be helpful, just not
that much.      
>
>
>
> Rear axle repair 114-115-107-123-126      1973-1989  (20 pages)
 
>
> front subframe mount repair 114-115-107    (6 pages)
>
> Diesel valve adjustment 1961-1985 (Nate, I have the valve wrenches
if you ever need a valve adjustment)  (14 pages)
>
> 114-115 chassis door maintenence and repair (10 pages)
>
> Diesel performance tuning and repair 1965-85 (85 pages)
>
> diesel compression test 110-115-116-123-126 1961-85 (10 pages)
>
> 75MPH guide  (40+ pages)
>
>
> I should have my 220D up and running by the end of the week.
>
> Nate, I'll buy you lunch and I'll let you drive her.  I have been
up in Mariposa (through the last few storms) and haven't had time to
finish the car.
>
>
>
>
> RichyV


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

I want to state for the record "Don't sweat it, It's cool"  this is totally not for profit. and legal.  Them suing me would make my day. The only way I can get payback is if they actually waste money on suing me 


there is no infraction to the law, people can borrow a copy of my manuals. Instead of returning them I ask that they place them in a recycle bin.  A group can work together on a car, relationships, business, dance, etc...... and they can let their friends borrow a book or a half-way lousy manual that might be slightly helpful.  I (and every other member)  am involved in an Internet group that discussed maintenance and service issues quite frequently. I hope they sue me.  I like that kinda stuff. I would love to see more old diesel Mercedes (and new one's especially) on the road.  Drive safe, and always work on your own car as much as you can (responsibly and safely).  Support  Mercedes Formula 1  

Rich Pranin

Pranin&Muldoon 
Attorneys at Law

1973 220D stick

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Ditwiler <Eric_Ditwiler@hmc.edu>
To: diesel mercedes <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 8:47 am
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc


Be careful advertising your intent to violate copyright laws.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

Perhaps you have wax in your fuel?  It's a little late for it now, but maybe you need a shot of:

 

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/acf.aspx

 

Mark in Fort Collins, CO  (where it was-3 F this morning, and the unplugged-in 300D fired up after cranking 30-seconds at full-throttle)


-----Original Message-----
From: AJ
Sent: Jan 22, 2008 3:53 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

I'm in NW Ohio... The temps have been near ZERO the past 3 days.. It's
warming some now-- but...

I drove to work, and parked (luckily) close to an electrical outlet..
I plugged in my block heater, but I'm really questioning it's "working
status.."

Sunday on the way to work, she stalled on the way to work.. I added 5
gallons of Kerosene, hoping that it it would circulate enough in the 20
mile drive to work, prevent gelling.. In retrospect, maybe gasoline
would have been a better choice.. Dunno..

Got to work, plugged in the block heater, and a 15 amp battery charger,
thinking a warm engine/full battery and I'd be on my way in the
morning. (No joy) It was 2F..

Like I said, it did crank and catch a few times, but I was unable to
keep the engine running, and the battery DIED.. Fine, let it charge,
go to sleep, right?? I did, still no dice... Add a second battery
that can cold crank my 460 Ranchero-- Both were even BROUGHT in to a
warmed building to "increase output" and charged fully..

Now it would crank, but not "start" not even for a second, SO..

I checked the glow plug relay.. Fuse intact, voltage on both sides, can
hear it click on/off..

I tried a hairdryer on the fuel filter for 15 minutes this morning (5F)
outside.. Down the intake with the air filter off.. Cranked both
warmed and charged batteries to death..

Tonight I added powerservice "Diesel 911" and 1 gallon of gasoline (all
there was room for.. I've got another primary/secondary filter I was
going to change the "can" filter, and dip the line that leaves
the "primary" into more "diesel 911"..

http://www.powerservice.com/d911/

(it's supposed to be the "silver bullet" for all that could confound a
diesel fuel system-- never used it as a rescue drug, but have added a
bottle to a tank previously and NOT had this crap happen.)

Okay-- I was able to crank and get "sputters" of activity, Sunday
morning, but ran the battery dead before I could "keep it running"

This morning it's a smidge warmer (29F).. I'm going to use my "Harbor
Freight Heat Gun.."

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35776

I'm going to make a quick attempt to warm the current filter and the
steel lines from the injection pump with that.. If it fails on the
first time, off with the secondary filter, and it gets filled with
D911, and I run the line from the primary filter into the rest of the
bottle (sort of like the diesel purge) I'm letting the "runnoff" back
into the tank, in case the tank fuel is cold at the sender, as well..

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY FURTHER IDEAS?? I'm really tired of sleeping at
the hospital!! :) I've got a room with a TV and shower, but I just
WANT TO GO HOME!!! (pout!)

AJ RN

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

In a word, no. Full throttle with a diesel engine is like closing the choke with a petrol engine. You need more fuel to start a cold engine, no matter the fuel. Petrol engines use a choke, diesel engines use the throttle.
If a diesel engine slows down while cranking, or does not start, with full throttle, no matter the weather, there is something else wrong. Diesels very nearly cannot flood. Flooding would cause a hydraulic lock and you'd have a bent rod faster than you can say "350SD".
What happens with a cold engine is that the cylinders cool the charge too much for an easy start, necessitating more fuel. More fuel reduces the combustion chamber's effective area, thereby increasing the compression, and that increases the temperature enough to allow a start. Glow plugs by and large eliminate the need for increased fuel, but get temperatures low enough (Chicago, 0 degrees now), and both are necessary. I have started many diesels in this cold weather, some which had sat outside for days, and this technique has virtually never failed with a good engine. I have also started Merc diesels in slightly warmer weather without glow plugs by cranking with full throttle. Once there is enough fuel in the chamber to increase compression/temperature, they start.
 
Overall, somehow, this reminds me of the motorcyclist who insisted that counter-steering did not work with HIS bike: apparently the laws of physics weren't installed on HIS bike.
 
Jeff
A little help from our engineers out there:  Does the gasoline engine "pump to the floor . . . floods my cylinders" theory hold true for diesel fuel systems?  Does holding the pedal to the floor cause flooding of the cylinders? Is there any connection between the gas and diesel "pumping the pedal" and "flooding" inthat we are talking two different systems  for firing up and engine?
Someone wrote:
"Reason The pump to the floor does not work. I think it floods my cylinders."

brian
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] speaking of nascar

Amen to that.Big ole diesel.

Brian Knowles <briankk@att.net> wrote:
BStromsoe wrote:
> That reminds me - I am about one mile from the site of the Winternationals (dragsters), and it about time for our February noise fest when the exotic fuels waft in the air, and diesel is forgotten for a week. Hmm, wonder what a 617 would do in a go cart body.
>
> brian
>
Crush it like a bug, no doubt.

Some other Brian


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] speaking of nascar

BStromsoe wrote:
> That reminds me - I am about one mile from the site of the Winternationals (dragsters), and it about time for our February noise fest when the exotic fuels waft in the air, and diesel is forgotten for a week. Hmm, wonder what a 617 would do in a go cart body.
>
> brian
>
Crush it like a bug, no doubt.

Some other Brian



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Water Seperators : RAYCOR Vs. DAHL ?

From what I've read you need a engine over 5 litres to stir the fuel in a Racor.Thats why I chose Stanadynes Filter a Napa.

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

So ? I don't know if one is better than the other , I see where I can
get filters down to 1 Micron in the DAHL 101 filter / seperator .

I clenaedup the one I just got , it's a DAHL Model 101 ans was almost
_full_ of fungus , slimy , gooey , rubbery black stuff . I took it all
the way apart and cleaned it out , replaced the screws and they looked
a mite peaked .

This thing is big and will prolly contain a _pint_ or more of water ,
has a nifty clear bowl on the bottom that has a valve to easily drain
it .

I dunno if I should keep it or re-sell it on E-Bay .

-Nate



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[diesel_mercedes] Water Seperators : RAYCOR Vs. DAHL ?

So ? I don't know if one is better than the other , I see where I can
get filters down to 1 Micron in the DAHL 101 filter / seperator .

I clenaedup the one I just got , it's a DAHL Model 101 ans was almost
_full_ of fungus , slimy , gooey , rubbery black stuff . I took it all
the way apart and cleaned it out , replaced the screws and they looked
a mite peaked .

This thing is big and will prolly contain a _pint_ or more of water ,
has a nifty clear bowl on the bottom that has a valve to easily drain
it .

I dunno if I should keep it or re-sell it on E-Bay .

-Nate


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] speaking of nascar

That reminds me - I am about one mile from the site of the Winternationals (dragsters), and it about time for our February noise fest when the exotic fuels waft in the air, and diesel is forgotten for a week. Hmm, wonder what a 617 would do in a go cart body.

brian

Nate <tccservice111@yahoo.com> wrote:
Is anyone out there like me in this.Wish Nascar would go back to real
showroom cars and race them.Then Mercedes or any other with same sized
engine could run. see they take Fiber bodies that represent most
frontwheel drive cars,and use outdated engines with carbs.
I'd like to see a 320cdi with roll bars take on whatever is in the
same class.




brian from la verne, ca


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[diesel_mercedes] speaking of nascar

Is anyone out there like me in this.Wish Nascar would go back to real
showroom cars and race them.Then Mercedes or any other with same sized
engine could run. see they take Fiber bodies that represent most
frontwheel drive cars,and use outdated engines with carbs.
I'd like to see a 320cdi with roll bars take on whatever is in the
same class.


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[diesel_mercedes] Cleaning Alloy

HOLY CAMOLE ! I bought an '81 / '82 only air filter cannister @ P-A-P
yesterday , it was *so* filthy it looked like it was painted black .

I tossed it into the solvent tank this morning and worked the grime
around a bit with the stiff brush then I used a solvent soaked rag to
wash it clean , no cracks but about 1/2 of it had light corrosion , too
nasty looking for my Diesel Coupe so I got a Brillo pad and took it
over tothe big shop sink where i wetted it down and proceeded to scrub
all the corrosion off , it looks almost new , not too shiny but bright
and clean looking ~ this is a tip to remember for alloy underhood pats
that need a bright but not mirrow finish , no swirls nor sanding marks .

Now to disassemble and clean out my new/old water seperator .

-Nate


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[diesel_mercedes] Turbo Engine Starter Swap

O.K. , Tom's '83 300SD has been suffering a sticky starter solenoid
since he bought it so we went to the Pick-A-Part and I took a starter
off an old European W-123 wagon and this past weekend I installed it
onto his W-126 , it's a simple job , no special tools required and
plenty of room to work in , if I were doing thse routinely in a
Mercedes shop , I'd not hesitate to do a starter job on a hot engine .

I used the 10MM X 3/8" hex socket on a flex head ratchet with a _L O N
G_ handle for good leverage , those bolts are _really_ tight so
arthritis sufferers (or pinched nerves like me) will have a hard time
breaking them loose , the trick is to lean on the handle of the ratchet
as hard as you can and after a moment or two , there's a " CLICK " and
it's loose .

I used a 3" 3/8" extension on the socket to loosen the bolts , you do
_not_ want to remove them as they're hard to get back in .

-Nate


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

 i'm near Bristol 15 miles Nascar track

Brian <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:
I'll be in Louisville in July - I'll see if I can work something out.
Matter of fact, maybe I'll talk my wife into a road trip and run
through TN on our way to Louisville. Heck, got a kid in Columbus,
Ohio - maybe we will really make a loop of it. Course, cold weather
starts are not too common in July.

brian

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector
<tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
> Fly out here and pump mine and hold to the floor.It won't start.
>
> BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote: A little help
from our engineers out there: Does the gasoline engine "pump to the
floor . . . floods my cylinders" theory hold true for diesel fuel
systems? Does holding the pedal to the floor cause flooding of the
cylinders? Is there any connection between the gas and diesel "pumping
the pedal" and "flooding" inthat we are talking two different systems
for firing up and engine?
> Someone wrote:
> "Reason The pump to the floor does not work. I think it floods my
cylinders."
>
>
> brian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
Search.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

Brilliant, just brilliant. I know this will smack of heresy to some of you - but I have actually had a hard starting issue the last couple of days when the temps dipped into the high 30's and low 40's in So. Cal. Well, won't be long and we can start talking about radiators "overheating" and all that summertime stuff.

brian

Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com> wrote:
I'll take a crack at this one.

Have you ever noticed that when you are going down a hill and let off the
pedal, that the engine gets _real_ quiet? That's because when you let off the
pedal, the engine is then going faster than the pedal is telling it to go and
so stops the fuel delivery to slow it down. Conversly, when you push the pedal,
even a little, the "difference" between the-pedal-and-the-engine-speed is now
in favor of it going faster than it now is. So it pumps a lot (relatively
speaking) more fuel to speed it up. But as it nears the equalization point the
fuel delivery is slowed down until the whole thing reaches a ballance point at
the new engine speed. This is the purpose of all that mechanism behind the
actual IP outlets. It measures the engine speed relative to the pedal and makes
adjustments.

Think of it as two pointers, next to each other, that go up and down. When the
engine speed pointer is below the pedal pointer it injects more fuel to speed
things up. When the pedal pointer is below the engine speed pointer it stops
the fuel delivery ALTOGETHER until the thing slows down.

That said, consider what happens when you try to start your car - the pedal
pointer is STILL pointing to the idle speed fuel setting, but the engine speed
pointer is down at zero. This difference is in favor of injecting a LOT of
fuel.
So I have the same problem some have mentioned here - any throttle slows me
down until the engine "catches".

There is so much extra fuel being injected that I actually had to lean out my
alda and back off the idle stop by several turns to get mine to start in this
cold rocky mountain weather this year. (It's been in the low teens on the warm
nights here.) And I had to add 10% gasoline to help it start when it's this
cold. Sometimes I even stick a hair dryer in the engine compartyment when it's
below about 12F in order to get enough warmth to get it to start.

I will replace my block heater as soon as it is warm enough to work on the rig
comfortably. And wait till next year to be glad I did. I also plan to put on
the extra heavy ground cable directly to the engine and finally replace the
starter that has needed replacing for 5 years now. But hey, it works just fine
the rest of the year. :)

Hope this helps.

Bogy.

--- BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:

> A little help from our engineers out there: Does the gasoline engine "pump
> to the floor . . . floods my cylinders" theory hold true for diesel fuel
> systems? Does holding the pedal to the floor cause flooding of the
> cylinders? Is there any connection between the gas and diesel "pumping the
> pedal" and "flooding" inthat we are talking two different systems for firing
> up and engine?
> Someone wrote:
> "Reason The pump to the floor does not work. I think it floods my cylinders."
>
>
> brian

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

I'll be in Louisville in July - I'll see if I can work something out.
Matter of fact, maybe I'll talk my wife into a road trip and run
through TN on our way to Louisville. Heck, got a kid in Columbus,
Ohio - maybe we will really make a loop of it. Course, cold weather
starts are not too common in July.

brian

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector
<tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
> Fly out here and pump mine and hold to the floor.It won't start.
>
> BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote: A little help
from our engineers out there: Does the gasoline engine "pump to the
floor . . . floods my cylinders" theory hold true for diesel fuel
systems? Does holding the pedal to the floor cause flooding of the
cylinders? Is there any connection between the gas and diesel "pumping
the pedal" and "flooding" inthat we are talking two different systems
for firing up and engine?
> Someone wrote:
> "Reason The pump to the floor does not work. I think it floods my
cylinders."
>
>
> brian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
Search.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

Richy ;

I'd love to have copies of ALL those books (I like technical info and
devour it)

Do I have to drive to Mariposa to test drive your Merc. ? . I can ,
just have to work it into my schedule .

-Nate
Richy wrote:
>
> You are correct, they suck.  The offer is still good. Anyone who
wants copies of Mercedessource books can get them from me for the
cost of copies and basic mail to get them wherever. Most of these
books from 5-15 dollars are nothing more than 10 or so pages of cheap
pictures and bad spelling. The important ones are the performance and
tuning, and the 75 MPH guide.  I am doing this because I feel ripped
off and do not want you guys spending your money (times are getting
tough) on this s**t.  These books will still be helpful, just not
that much.      
>
>
>
> Rear axle repair 114-115-107-123-126      1973-1989  (20 pages)
 
>
> front subframe mount repair 114-115-107    (6 pages)
>
> Diesel valve adjustment 1961-1985 (Nate, I have the valve wrenches
if you ever need a valve adjustment)  (14 pages)
>
> 114-115 chassis door maintenence and repair (10 pages)
>
> Diesel performance tuning and repair 1965-85 (85 pages)
>
> diesel compression test 110-115-116-123-126 1961-85 (10 pages)
>
> 75MPH guide  (40+ pages)
>
>
> I should have my 220D up and running by the end of the week.
>
> Nate, I'll buy you lunch and I'll let you drive her.  I have been
up in Mariposa (through the last few storms) and haven't had time to
finish the car.
>
>
>
>
> RichyV


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

No sh*&, they would sue a person.

Eric Ditwiler <Eric_Ditwiler@hmc.edu> wrote:

Be careful advertising your intent to violate copyright laws.


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

Fly out here and pump mine and hold to the floor.It won't start.

BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:
A little help from our engineers out there:  Does the gasoline engine "pump to the floor . . . floods my cylinders" theory hold true for diesel fuel systems?  Does holding the pedal to the floor cause flooding of the cylinders? Is there any connection between the gas and diesel "pumping the pedal" and "flooding" inthat we are talking two different systems  for firing up and engine?
Someone wrote:
"Reason The pump to the floor does not work. I think it floods my cylinders."

brian



brian from la verne, ca

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

I'll take a crack at this one.

Have you ever noticed that when you are going down a hill and let off the
pedal, that the engine gets _real_ quiet? That's because when you let off the
pedal, the engine is then going faster than the pedal is telling it to go and
so stops the fuel delivery to slow it down. Conversly, when you push the pedal,
even a little, the "difference" between the-pedal-and-the-engine-speed is now
in favor of it going faster than it now is. So it pumps a lot (relatively
speaking) more fuel to speed it up. But as it nears the equalization point the
fuel delivery is slowed down until the whole thing reaches a ballance point at
the new engine speed. This is the purpose of all that mechanism behind the
actual IP outlets. It measures the engine speed relative to the pedal and makes
adjustments.

Think of it as two pointers, next to each other, that go up and down. When the
engine speed pointer is below the pedal pointer it injects more fuel to speed
things up. When the pedal pointer is below the engine speed pointer it stops
the fuel delivery ALTOGETHER until the thing slows down.

That said, consider what happens when you try to start your car - the pedal
pointer is STILL pointing to the idle speed fuel setting, but the engine speed
pointer is down at zero. This difference is in favor of injecting a LOT of
fuel.
So I have the same problem some have mentioned here - any throttle slows me
down until the engine "catches".

There is so much extra fuel being injected that I actually had to lean out my
alda and back off the idle stop by several turns to get mine to start in this
cold rocky mountain weather this year. (It's been in the low teens on the warm
nights here.) And I had to add 10% gasoline to help it start when it's this
cold. Sometimes I even stick a hair dryer in the engine compartyment when it's
below about 12F in order to get enough warmth to get it to start.

I will replace my block heater as soon as it is warm enough to work on the rig
comfortably. And wait till next year to be glad I did. I also plan to put on
the extra heavy ground cable directly to the engine and finally replace the
starter that has needed replacing for 5 years now. But hey, it works just fine
the rest of the year. :)

Hope this helps.

Bogy.

--- BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:

> A little help from our engineers out there: Does the gasoline engine "pump
> to the floor . . . floods my cylinders" theory hold true for diesel fuel
> systems? Does holding the pedal to the floor cause flooding of the
> cylinders? Is there any connection between the gas and diesel "pumping the
> pedal" and "flooding" inthat we are talking two different systems for firing
> up and engine?
> Someone wrote:
> "Reason The pump to the floor does not work. I think it floods my cylinders."
>
>
> brian


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

You might find something here: http://www.dieselpage.com/tips.htm

/KJ

Max wrote:
AJ wrote:    
I'm in NW Ohio... The temps have been near ZERO the past 3 days.. It's warming some now-- but...  I drove to work, and parked (luckily) close to an electrical outlet.. I plugged in my block heater, but I'm really questioning it's "working status.."       
Well, I grew up in So. Cal., and I dont think its relative at all. When  it gets really cold , stuff starts happening, or not happening. One day  it was -20 and my truck had a flat tire(first one in years, go figure),  I had a four way tire star, put it on the lug nut and twisted and the  thing just snapped.  But about starting your car. I would think if you  had it plugged in all day and it would not start at zero, you got a  problem. Check you block heater somehow. Any diesel fuel sold in a cold  climate has to be winterized or the whole area would come to a sudden  stop. Your fuel is probably formulated for down to -40. When my boy was  going to school in Bozeman Montana, he had the 240. The school would not  provide any parking with ele. outlets, when I asked them why, they told  me diesel cars and Montana winters dont mix, buy him a gas car.. It got  to -40 that year there, or course it does every year in Montana. Good  luck starting your car and the days are getting longer. Max    
      
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

Be careful advertising your intent to violate copyright laws.



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

You are correct, they suck.  The offer is still good. Anyone who wants copies of Mercedessource books can get them from me for the cost of copies and basic mail to get them wherever. Most of these books from 5-15 dollars are nothing more than 10 or so pages of cheap pictures and bad spelling. The important ones are the performance and tuning, and the 75 MPH guide.  I am doing this because I feel ripped off and do not want you guys spending your money (times are getting tough) on this s**t.  These books will still be helpful, just not that much.      

Rear axle repair 114-115-107-123-126      1973-1989  (20 pages)  
front subframe mount repair 114-115-107    (6 pages)
Diesel valve adjustment 1961-1985 (Nate, I have the valve wrenches if you ever need a valve adjustment)  (14 pages)
114-115 chassis door maintenence and repair (10 pages)
Diesel performance tuning and repair 1965-85 (85 pages)
diesel compression test 110-115-116-123-126 1961-85 (10 pages)
75MPH guide  (40+ pages)

I should have my 220D up and running by the end of the week.
Nate, I'll buy you lunch and I'll let you drive her.  I have been up in Mariposa (through the last few storms) and haven't had time to finish the car.

RichyV

1973 220D stick

-----Original Message-----
From: Nate <tccservice111@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 7:35 am
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

I will get a new timing chain from them when time comes.Some parts I
use diesel giant,ebay,and Napa.Mercedessource has change from a help
company to a make money business.


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

AJ wrote:

> I'm in NW Ohio... The temps have been near ZERO the past 3 days.. It's
> warming some now-- but...
>
> I drove to work, and parked (luckily) close to an electrical outlet..
> I plugged in my block heater, but I'm really questioning it's "working
> status.."
>
>
Well, I grew up in So. Cal., and I dont think its relative at all. When
it gets really cold , stuff starts happening, or not happening. One day
it was -20 and my truck had a flat tire(first one in years, go figure),
I had a four way tire star, put it on the lug nut and twisted and the
thing just snapped. But about starting your car. I would think if you
had it plugged in all day and it would not start at zero, you got a
problem. Check you block heater somehow. Any diesel fuel sold in a cold
climate has to be winterized or the whole area would come to a sudden
stop. Your fuel is probably formulated for down to -40. When my boy was
going to school in Bozeman Montana, he had the 240. The school would not
provide any parking with ele. outlets, when I asked them why, they told
me diesel cars and Montana winters dont mix, buy him a gas car.. It got
to -40 that year there, or course it does every year in Montana. Good
luck starting your car and the days are getting longer. Max

>
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Sub Freezing-- won't start '83 SD

A little help from our engineers out there:  Does the gasoline engine "pump to the floor . . . floods my cylinders" theory hold true for diesel fuel systems?  Does holding the pedal to the floor cause flooding of the cylinders? Is there any connection between the gas and diesel "pumping the pedal" and "flooding" inthat we are talking two different systems  for firing up and engine?
Someone wrote:
"Reason The pump to the floor does not work. I think it floods my cylinders."

brian



brian from la verne, ca


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Sub Freezing-- won't start

One thing more,my ALDA is turned up,so maybe with my rich fuel
setting,I can't floor her to start, Oh yeah I'm always running 10%
wesson oil from Big Lots.



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

Well, that is what good shoppers do - you shop. There are good bargains at Goodwill stores, and I suppose Nieman Marcus too. I have bought from all of them with mostly good results.  When you do mail order you just have to be willing to send some things back once in a while. Most of the good guys will eat the shipping and restocking if it is their fault. If they won't, then they just lost a customer. Personally I have never had any problem with Bergsma et al, but any good retailer should be more than happy to learn from some constructive criticism.  My gripe about all of them is the "shipping and handling" fees which seem to be a separate way to increase profits along the way (buy a $10 part and it costs another $10 to ship). Oh well, no complaints - I rarely pay a mechanic nowadays and I don't make car payments and my wife elected to drive her own 300D to work this morning - I am a content man.

brian


Nate <tccservice111@yahoo.com> wrote:
I will get a new timing chain from them when time comes.Some parts I
use diesel giant,ebay,and Napa.Mercedessource has change from a help
company to a make money business.




brian from la verne, ca


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sub Freezing-- won't start

maybe the extra cylinder helps.If I give fuel it slows her down like a flooded gasoline engine.

rcjpix752@cs.com wrote:
P.S. As my handbook says don't start like a car.It may take 1.5
minutes of not interrupted cranking to get her going.Like starting an
airplane.It won't hurt the starter.Mine I barely give it the
pedal,maybe a 1/16. Reason The pump to the floor does not work.I
think it floods my cylinders.

    MINE, I hold the pedal to the floor and CRANK until it (300SDL) starts.  It NEVER fails.  Type 49 Energizer battery from Sam's, $72.50.....no block heater, north Detroit area.
Robert


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[diesel_mercedes] Bergsma's manuals

I have purchased a few of the Mercedes Source manuals and have found them to be about 90% accurate. The valve adjustment instructions would have the lobes vertical instead of pointing to the oil rail. The seat restoration manual missed the fact that the base comes apart suggesting, instead, that one just get used to having the knob on the wrong side. I did not get any inferior parts from them though. They sure have a lot of junk for sale: I'll sell off my old stripped head parts for $50!



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

I will get a new timing chain from them when time comes.Some parts I
use diesel giant,ebay,and Napa.Mercedessource has change from a help
company to a make money business.


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[Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

To those who read all my post and answered my question I offer my
thanks.


--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Gary Krous" <gemu@...> wrote:
>
> Look at RV Toy Store. They have them for 499. Not cheep but a lot
of people buy from them.
> Gary
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: noladiver<mailto:noladiver@...>
> To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 11:42 AM
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty
>
>
> I am trying to purchase a "bra" for the front of my Dynasty.
There
> does not seem to be anyone out there (including ADCO) that offers
a
> front cover. Please note, the plastic shield would work but would
> only serve to reveal the chips that are already there AND I am
not
> ready for a front end repaint.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>


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