FW: [diesel_mercedes] 300 tubro diesel towing

 

https://www.google.com/#q=Mercedes+300+turbo+diesel+towing

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 3:57 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Turbo Overhaul Garret T3 OM617 Engine

 

 . . . .

 

What is real fuel numbers? MPG.  Big question. Can you pull a camp trailer? OK, question should be- will it really work to pull around a trailer in the mountains on long camping trips? I am thinking of a big pop up trailer, but probably not too heavy.  Any one live near Clear Lake? Max

 

 

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] 300 tubro diesel mmpg?

 

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/279144-realistic-mpg-300ds-300sds-190-ds.html

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 3:57 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Turbo Overhaul Garret T3 OM617 Engine

 

 . . . .

 

What is real fuel numbers? MPG.  Big question. Can you pull a camp trailer? OK, question should be- will it really work to pull around a trailer in the mountains on long camping trips? I am thinking of a big pop up trailer, but probably not too heavy.  Any one live near Clear Lake? Max

 

 

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Posted by: <corvallis@peoplepc.com>
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Turbo Overhaul Garret T3 OM617 Engine

 

I have questions for you guys that have  300 Turbo's. I have never had one and only drove one once. It was worn out with lots of blo-by and a dripping, soaked up air filter. (good way to judge one of these engines). This car hauled ass, snapped your neck back, blew my mind with its pickup.  Now keep in mind my Mercedes experience up to this point was a 1959 190D, factory rated at 55hp.( I think in the plus 35 years I owned this car I did pass a couple of cars. I remember back in 1978 I passed  a old lady driving a bright red  Rambler in Oregon, cant remember the other car I passed. ) Then several 240's. One of which was a worn out dog, slow, very slow,  but amazingly it still started pretty good, even in cold weather.( How do those guys build engines that can be so worn and still start ?)  OK, I'm getting to the questions.
What is real fuel numbers? MPG.  Big question. Can you pull a camp trailer? OK, question should be- will it really work to pull around a trailer in the mountains on long camping trips? I am thinking of a big pop up trailer, but probably not too heavy.  Any one live near Clear Lake? Max

On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:56 AM, Nate vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
[Attachment(s) from Nate included below]

 

 

I bought the DeLuxe overhaul kit from Mercedessource in Bellingham , Wa. , it contains a new shaft , seals including oil drin pipe boot and O-rings , special tools modified by Kent , seals , gasket , dynamic seal rings , new nuts and so on , plenty to insure you do a good complete job .

I was a bit worried as master mechanic Damien had done one of these and said it smoked blue after he was done so I wasn't sure how I'd do but , nothing ventured , nothing gained so I attacked it .

Day one was removing it from the car and disassembly , there are some really hard to reach bolts on this job so patience is mandatory  ~ don't be afraid to stop and take a break , I worked diligently with my two dogs there to guide me and Supervise .

It was bugger all hot (97* F) and began to rain heavily , I could barely see through the falling rain to my house as I sat there on my milk crate underneath my new canvas cover .

Day two was spent cleaning , inspecting , more cleaning , more cleaning and yes dammit , even MORE cleaning as the turbo spins at 140,000 RPM's when you're clocking along and any tiny bit of dirt or old carbon you miss , will grind it to junk in short order .

This was a Junk Yard turbo I  picked up a while ago , my Coupe spews grey / black (excess fuel) smoke like crazy and had low power , sluggish take off and so on , the shaft *should* spin easily by your fingers and have some side to side play but almost no discernible (.003" Maximum) end play , I had about .050" eng play and the shaft would stop spinning the *instant* you let go of it so I know the bushings were shot .

The kit comes with some Harbor  Freight picks to be used to get the tiny , recessed and hard to reach snap rings (FOUR of them) out and back in again , I found them pretty useless , went to Harbor Freight with one snap ring in hand and couldn't find a decent pair of snap ring pliers , went across the street to SEARS and found a nice Craftsman pair that co$t $32 (IIRC) , I managed to loose them before making it home again so instead I used my decades old $1.00 War Surplus Dental Picks to easily remove and replace the clips .

They hold the floating bushings in place , the bushings are steel coated in brass and run in a high pressure oil bath .

I found one snap ring partially loose and both bushings work right through the brass so I could see the steel , gouges and so on .

Some of the bolts are metric , others are factional (1/2") , ALL are going to be rusty and hard to remove so take your time , read the instructions carefully and select each open end wrench so it fits each bolt head snugly , don't assume the 90 degree bent 1/2" wrench is the best tool for all the same bolts in a row .

I was surprised to find my turbine blades on both inlet and exhaust side , to be reasonably clean , often they're fully clogged with carbon and oil , this makes the turbine less effective .

I used Ether (aerosol starting fluid) and some old tooth brushes to clean the turbine wheels because they're *VERY* delicate and even slightly bending one blade tip , ruins them .

They're SHARP buggers too , hungry and wanting YOUR BLOOD so work carefully , over light colored CLEAN TOWELS , you'll be needing several big bath towels from the Thrift Store to cut up and work on ~ re assembly is done on HOSPITAL CLEAN towels , I am not sure of the pouring rain in 97* heat is a help or not *#:-S whew! .

Two of the inner turbine to exhaust housing bolts are partially blocked by the oil lines input and drain connection flanges , you have to suffer this taking it apart but on re assembly I simply rotated the inner turbine a bit until I could easily start all six bolts , run them up lightly with my fingers then align the parts correctly and tighten the two hard to reach ones first then the rest of them .
I'd say this is a three or four day D.I.Y. job if you're careful and don't rush things , take the time to stop and read the comprehensive manual Kent includes .

It's critically important to use the synthetic grease provided in assembling the bushings and shaft and then to pour in lots of fresh clean engine oil after it's all assembled but before you re connect the top oil feed pipe ~ I did this until it wouldn't take anymore oil using a pump oiler then I spun the turbine by hand , added more oil , repeated several times then buttoned it up .

Once you're all done , start the engine but DO NOT REV. IT ~ allow it to idle for at least 15 minutes ~ I let it idle for a half hour whilst I cleaned up and put away my tools , washeed my hands , conferred with the Supervisors (the thunder & lightning worried them a lot)  before taking a test drive .

It runs out better , Kent says to get 50 +  miles on it before stamping on the throttle to see how much more power you've got , I didn't want to wa$te the $ in arts so I took it easy for 75 + miles , it now runs better but is still smoking excess fuel so I pulled the injectors , more on that later .

YOU CAN DO THIS AT HOME ! .

Or , buy a $350 rebuilt turbo exchange and simply install it in your driveway .

Pic. # 1 is the four tools Kent provides plus two more I found useful ~ notice one is the factory toolkit 13MM that looks cheapo but is Vanadium Steel and doesn't slip and round the bolt heads .

Pic. # 2 is the turbo still on the car , taking it apart on the car makes the job *much* easier .you can see how clean the pressure side wheel is , oil was built up around it

Pic.  # 3 is the center section after I'd removed it, not a whole lot of accumulated crud in there .

Pic. # 4 is the turbine disassembled .

Pic. # 5 is the accumulated exhaust crud behind the heat shield .

Pic. # 6 shows the shaft with the burned oil residue , I prolly could have cleaned and re used it but I'd already bought the new improved shaft etc. .

 
 
-Nate
 
DCG Whse.
 
Your Tax Dollars at work !







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Posted by: Max temple <jasperezra@gmail.com>
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 240D Fuel Tank Up Grade

 



Interesting but no , I don't have the time nor patience to properly prepare Veggie fuel .

-Nate
     Lawrence  wrote :

Here is something that will help fuel flow out of the tank if you are using 3/8 inch hose and running vegetable oil.which is 20 times thicker than diesel.  http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/5151286563.html I modified this one for my TD not realizing they are different.  There is a slight bottle neck as the fuel leaves the tank in the smaller metric tube.  The 3/8 inch hose reduces resistance.  Lawrence Rhodes

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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com
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[diesel_mercedes] Turbo Overhaul Garret T3 OM617 Engine [6 Attachments]

 
[Attachment(s) from Nate included below]

 

 

I bought the DeLuxe overhaul kit from Mercedessource in Bellingham , Wa. , it contains a new shaft , seals including oil drin pipe boot and O-rings , special tools modified by Kent , seals , gasket , dynamic seal rings , new nuts and so on , plenty to insure you do a good complete job .

I was a bit worried as master mechanic Damien had done one of these and said it smoked blue after he was done so I wasn't sure how I'd do but , nothing ventured , nothing gained so I attacked it .

Day one was removing it from the car and disassembly , there are some really hard to reach bolts on this job so patience is mandatory  ~ don't be afraid to stop and take a break , I worked diligently with my two dogs there to guide me and Supervise .

It was bugger all hot (97* F) and began to rain heavily , I could barely see through the falling rain to my house as I sat there on my milk crate underneath my new canvas cover .

Day two was spent cleaning , inspecting , more cleaning , more cleaning and yes dammit , even MORE cleaning as the turbo spins at 140,000 RPM's when you're clocking along and any tiny bit of dirt or old carbon you miss , will grind it to junk in short order .

This was a Junk Yard turbo I  picked up a while ago , my Coupe spews grey / black (excess fuel) smoke like crazy and had low power , sluggish take off and so on , the shaft *should* spin easily by your fingers and have some side to side play but almost no discernible (.003" Maximum) end play , I had about .050" eng play and the shaft would stop spinning the *instant* you let go of it so I know the bushings were shot .

The kit comes with some Harbor  Freight picks to be used to get the tiny , recessed and hard to reach snap rings (FOUR of them) out and back in again , I found them pretty useless , went to Harbor Freight with one snap ring in hand and couldn't find a decent pair of snap ring pliers , went across the street to SEARS and found a nice Craftsman pair that co$t $32 (IIRC) , I managed to loose them before making it home again so instead I used my decades old $1.00 War Surplus Dental Picks to easily remove and replace the clips .

They hold the floating bushings in place , the bushings are steel coated in brass and run in a high pressure oil bath .

I found one snap ring partially loose and both bushings work right through the brass so I could see the steel , gouges and so on .

Some of the bolts are metric , others are factional (1/2") , ALL are going to be rusty and hard to remove so take your time , read the instructions carefully and select each open end wrench so it fits each bolt head snugly , don't assume the 90 degree bent 1/2" wrench is the best tool for all the same bolts in a row .

I was surprised to find my turbine blades on both inlet and exhaust side , to be reasonably clean , often they're fully clogged with carbon and oil , this makes the turbine less effective .

I used Ether (aerosol starting fluid) and some old tooth brushes to clean the turbine wheels because they're *VERY* delicate and even slightly bending one blade tip , ruins them .

They're SHARP buggers too , hungry and wanting YOUR BLOOD so work carefully , over light colored CLEAN TOWELS , you'll be needing several big bath towels from the Thrift Store to cut up and work on ~ re assembly is done on HOSPITAL CLEAN towels , I am not sure of the pouring rain in 97* heat is a help or not *#:-S whew! .

Two of the inner turbine to exhaust housing bolts are partially blocked by the oil lines input and drain connection flanges , you have to suffer this taking it apart but on re assembly I simply rotated the inner turbine a bit until I could easily start all six bolts , run them up lightly with my fingers then align the parts correctly and tighten the two hard to reach ones first then the rest of them .
I'd say this is a three or four day D.I.Y. job if you're careful and don't rush things , take the time to stop and read the comprehensive manual Kent includes .

It's critically important to use the synthetic grease provided in assembling the bushings and shaft and then to pour in lots of fresh clean engine oil after it's all assembled but before you re connect the top oil feed pipe ~ I did this until it wouldn't take anymore oil using a pump oiler then I spun the turbine by hand , added more oil , repeated several times then buttoned it up .

Once you're all done , start the engine but DO NOT REV. IT ~ allow it to idle for at least 15 minutes ~ I let it idle for a half hour whilst I cleaned up and put away my tools , washeed my hands , conferred with the Supervisors (the thunder & lightning worried them a lot)  before taking a test drive .

It runs out better , Kent says to get 50 +  miles on it before stamping on the throttle to see how much more power you've got , I didn't want to wa$te the $ in arts so I took it easy for 75 + miles , it now runs better but is still smoking excess fuel so I pulled the injectors , more on that later .

YOU CAN DO THIS AT HOME ! .

Or , buy a $350 rebuilt turbo exchange and simply install it in your driveway .

Pic. # 1 is the four tools Kent provides plus two more I found useful ~ notice one is the factory toolkit 13MM that looks cheapo but is Vanadium Steel and doesn't slip and round the bolt heads .

Pic. # 2 is the turbo still on the car , taking it apart on the car makes the job *much* easier .you can see how clean the pressure side wheel is , oil was built up around it

Pic.  # 3 is the center section after I'd removed it, not a whole lot of accumulated crud in there .

Pic. # 4 is the turbine disassembled .

Pic. # 5 is the accumulated exhaust crud behind the heat shield .

Pic. # 6 shows the shaft with the burned oil residue , I prolly could have cleaned and re used it but I'd already bought the new improved shaft etc. .

 
 
-Nate
 
DCG Whse.
 
Your Tax Dollars at work !




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Attachment(s) from Nate | View attachments on the web

6 of 6 Photo(s)

Posted by: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 240D Fuel Tank Up Grade

 

Here is something that will help fuel flow out of the tank if you are using 3/8 inch hose and running vegetable oil.which is 20 times thicker than diesel.  http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/5151286563.html I modified this one for my TD not realizing they are different.  There is a slight bottle neck as the fuel leaves the tank in the smaller metric tube.  The 3/8 inch hose reduces resistance.  Lawrence Rhodes

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Posted by: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net>
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