Diesel RVs: 08/22/15

Bogy,

To clean sludge from the trans, I like K and W Trans X. It (last time I bought it) comes in a real metal can that is blue. Here it is on Amazon:

<http://www.amazon.com/Trans-X-Automatic-Transmission-Power-Steering/dp/B0002KKSBO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1440260412&sr=1-1&keywords=k%26w+trans+x>

I remember it being cheaper locally.

K&W also has an engine flu sh in a orange can, so check the label.

Good luck,

Bobby

On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 1:49 AM, Bogy Wan Kenobi polespearbogy@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Guys:

Last sumer I got an 81 CJ7 for a great price. It got better when I sold the bits I didn't want. It came with a th400 and t20 transfer case. I got it because I wanted a jeep and especially wanted to put the engine/tranny from my parts car in one. A couple of months ago I got it legal and have been driving it. It is the 722.118 four bolt with the long arm for throttle position sensing/shift point modification. The tranny came form a different car than the engine did and I do not have any good details about how to connect the "modulator" arm to the throttle so I made a linkage of my own and it moves the rod "linearly" with the throttle.

Question 1: is this right or should the modulator arm only move at the end of the throttle travel.

It has never shifted right - flaring between 2 AND 3, AND THEN SHIFTING ABOUT 25 - 30 mph DEPENDING ON TEMP. (Excuse the caps, I'm not retyping all that.) As of a few weeks ago it would not shift out of second gear when cold unless I got it up to the mandatory shift point as indicated on the speedo. But once it warms up it shifts in an acceptable manner. Once warm it stays in second a bit too long for my taste and still can flare if I don't dance on the throttle just right. But I can live with it.

Question 2: Because the shift starts working right when warm I suspect some gum or varnish in the valve body (or maybe the band servos - who knows) and when it warms up the stuff softens up and allows acceptable shifting again. I was thinking about using a bit of MMO or something to dissolve the sludge (if indeed that is what it is) and wanted you guys' take on all this.

I may just end up putting the TH400/T20 on because I have it and can make an adapter plate to mount it all onto the engine. And then I would have 4 wheel drive without having to figure out how to install a divorced t-case. I'm just looking at options right now. But any thoughts would be outrageously appreciated.

FWIW, I have mounted a 123 instrument cluster on the dash and the odo doesn't work. But using my phones GPS over a full tank of gas I get just under 20 MPG. (3.54 diffs and 33 inch tires add up to 15% faster than the spedo indicates.) Oh yeah The engine is old and tired. A couple of HARD Italian tune ups has helped it to idle smoothly within 30 seconds after start up instead of 30 minutes. And I can't get it to start unless the injection timing is retarded to about 15 degrees BTDC. (spent all day today proving that.) But it's mine, it didn't cost me much and I enjoy the hell out of bonking around town in it. It was a lot of fun to build. And it is still a lot of fun to work on. There's a thousand little things to do.

Still I gotta do something about the tranny shift thing.

TIA.
Bogy.

"Hardware eventually fails.
Software eventually works"
- Michael Hartung