[diesel_mercedes] '81 300sd running weird & smoking

 

Yesterday I was on a small grade on the freeway when my car lost most of it's power and I had to floor it, I still got passed up by an eighteen wheeler! 

Once I got to the crest the car appeared to get it's power back.  I made it to camp and Kevin.  We checked the oil, and had to put in a couple of quarts. I checked it before I left the house, less than 50 miles earlier and I had plenty. 

I left camp and could barely make it up the hill to the gate.  I went back, we checked the oil again. It was fine.  

Kevin got in and drove and it just had no power.  We went down the service road and around in a loop.  He couldn't get it to shift. 

He had just said I had to take the truck home, he didn't see how I was going to get there in the car, when all of a sudden the car started running perfect. 

We went back to camp, checked everything we could think of and I headed out.

I was fine until I had to climb a hill over the freeway to the FM road.  Again, barely made it up the hill, no power, then just when I came over the crest it was OK. 

The rest of the way home, flat or hills it ran like a dog. 

I put some Startron in today.  Kevin had looked at the fuel filters before I left camp and said the clear one looked dirty.  I hope that's my problem.

And the oil consumption now is from the tube running to the bottom at the turbo.

Also, he watched as I left and said it's belching grey smoke.  Oh go ahead and tell me.  I can take it.  Mark sent me a link to a Kent video on rebuilding the turbo.






--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Is that a new paint job? !! UPDATE Questions

 

Hey Chip,

What is the name of the wax? I recall from the original post that there had been a name change in the product.

Jim

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Chip" <czulli@...> wrote:
>
> Steve and Board,
>
> It has been two or three weeks and my car still looks like I have had it painted. The water beads just as if it were freshly waxed. I even went and bought a new chamois!
>
> Steve, I went with this treatment on my hood, roof and trunk, because of the damage to the top clear coat. I still wax my coupe the regular way on the sides of the car where the original luster still remains.
>
> In a few weeks I will put a new coat of this liquid wax on the top surfaces again but right now it still looks like the job was just completed.
>
> Who would have never thought you could bring paint back to this extent, it's like driving a new car.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Chip
> Shining like a new penny in Houston
>
>
> > Its been a couple weeks, and I have a couple questions....
> >
> > How is it holding up ? Does the rain bead like wax ?
> >
> > Have you attempted to wax over it, or would you just go with a refresh coat ?
> >
> > Many Thanks
> > Steve
> >
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Is that a new paint job? !! UPDATE Questions

 

Great thread for all of our 30 year old paint jobs.
 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's
From: Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2012 5:20 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Is that a new paint job? !! UPDATE Questions

 


Guys,

I'll try to get some picture of my coupe's wax job in a few days. What is really ashamed is that I didn't take before pictures.

Of course there is a reason I did not post before pictures; I was ashamed of how my MB coupe looked. But, it was bad.

It was Nate that put me on to the importance of getting all of the old clear coat off the car before starting any kind of cosmetic improvement. My fear was going through my original paint down to the primer. This "Bar Keepers Friend" and a "white 3M" scrub pad are critical pieces as they are both pretty gentle in cutting through the old clear coat. This is not hard work, nothing like the brown or white paste that Simonize use to sell before you went with the "Yellow Can". I did all of my top surfaces at the same time and it took no longer than an hour.

Then the patience of putting on coat after coat of the industrial floor was. Use a micro fiber cloth for this. The first several coats will leave you unimpressed but be patient, it will come.

I think after about 6 coats of wax I let it dry for a few days and then went over all of the waxed surfaces with 1000 grit wet paper lightly. Once you have done that you have leveled the wax and re scuffed the surface.

I followed that with three more applications on the floor wax and I was done. The sanding after built up is an important step that is not in the original suggestion from the RV site suggestion that got me on to this idea.

This is not hard work. Each coat of wax is on in less than 5 minutes. You can re-coat after 30 minutes and just keep building the surface.

Oh yes, use disposable gloves for this work, this stuff will build up on your hands just like your car.

I suppose the thing that makes me grin the most is knowing that my paint is all original factor finish, something I really wanted to keep. I never thought it could be brought back.

Chip
Houston



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Is that a new paint job? !! UPDATE Questions

 

Excellent; I look forward to seeing them. After your first discussion a month ago about this, I looked through various articles/blogs on the web for a short time, but there was some discussion of the types of products one could use, their current availability, etc. I too, had an original paint job on my 300D, had it repainted against my better judgment, and was so unhappy with the results that I started driving one of several extra cars we have (following the death of a few family members). In my opinion, there is nothing better than seeing a 300D/SD with its original paint; you know how much monkeying around has been done to the sheet metal beneath, when the paint is original. Just my opinion. Thanks

--- On Wed, 7/4/12, Chip <czulli@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Is that a new paint job? !! UPDATE Questions
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, July 4, 2012, 8:20 AM



Guys,

I'll try to get some picture of my coupe's wax job in a few days.  What is really ashamed is that I didn't take before pictures.

Of course there is a reason I did not post before pictures; I was ashamed of how my MB coupe looked.  But, it was bad.

It was Nate that put me on to the importance of getting all of the old clear coat off the car before starting any kind of cosmetic improvement.  My fear was going through my original paint down to the primer.  This "Bar Keepers Friend" and a "white 3M" scrub pad are critical pieces as they are both pretty gentle in cutting through the old clear coat.  This is not hard work, nothing like the brown or white paste that Simonize use to sell before you went with the "Yellow Can".  I did all of my top surfaces at the same time and it took no longer than an hour.

Then the patience of putting on coat after coat of the industrial floor was. Use a micro fiber cloth for this.  The first several coats will leave you unimpressed but be patient, it will come.

I think after about 6 coats of wax I let it dry for a few days and then went over all of the waxed surfaces with 1000 grit wet paper lightly. Once you have done that you have leveled the wax and re scuffed the surface.

I followed that with three more applications on the floor wax and I was done.  The sanding after built up is an important step that is not in the original suggestion from the RV site suggestion that got me on to this idea.

This is not hard work.  Each coat of wax is on in less than 5 minutes.  You can re-coat after 30 minutes and just keep building the surface.

Oh yes, use disposable gloves for this work, this stuff will build up on your hands just like your car.

I suppose the thing that makes me grin the most is knowing that my paint is all original factor finish, something I really wanted to keep.  I never thought it could be brought back.

Chip
Houston     



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Is that a new paint job? !! UPDATE Questions

 



Guys,

I'll try to get some picture of my coupe's wax job in a few days. What is really ashamed is that I didn't take before pictures.

Of course there is a reason I did not post before pictures; I was ashamed of how my MB coupe looked. But, it was bad.

It was Nate that put me on to the importance of getting all of the old clear coat off the car before starting any kind of cosmetic improvement. My fear was going through my original paint down to the primer. This "Bar Keepers Friend" and a "white 3M" scrub pad are critical pieces as they are both pretty gentle in cutting through the old clear coat. This is not hard work, nothing like the brown or white paste that Simonize use to sell before you went with the "Yellow Can". I did all of my top surfaces at the same time and it took no longer than an hour.

Then the patience of putting on coat after coat of the industrial floor was. Use a micro fiber cloth for this. The first several coats will leave you unimpressed but be patient, it will come.

I think after about 6 coats of wax I let it dry for a few days and then went over all of the waxed surfaces with 1000 grit wet paper lightly. Once you have done that you have leveled the wax and re scuffed the surface.

I followed that with three more applications on the floor wax and I was done. The sanding after built up is an important step that is not in the original suggestion from the RV site suggestion that got me on to this idea.

This is not hard work. Each coat of wax is on in less than 5 minutes. You can re-coat after 30 minutes and just keep building the surface.

Oh yes, use disposable gloves for this work, this stuff will build up on your hands just like your car.

I suppose the thing that makes me grin the most is knowing that my paint is all original factor finish, something I really wanted to keep. I never thought it could be brought back.

Chip
Houston

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