No worries Chuck ;
This explanation is as clear as glass .
Where didja get the parts ? .
-Nate
Chuck wrote:
>
> Tom,
> I re-read the question, I may have missed something in my answer. The rivet and the plastic piece come together. This is why the rivet has to be drilled out of the arm. Ask again if I am not answering the questions you have.
>
> As a follow up. the rivet piece is concave, so the ball peen hammer takes those outer high edges and flattens them to push down on the arm thereby securing the arm to the slide.
>
> The problem is lack of room to swing the hammer. Or the jewelry hammer I was using was too lightweight. Which is why I may have to do the repair again.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@> wrote:
> >
> > I drilled out the old male protrusion from the lift arm. Grinder on drill to level out, and then drill bit to punch it out and enlarge the hole a bit. The replace ment piece fits in the slide, raise or lower winder to line up pieces, and then take a ballpeen hammer to flatten out the metal that is sticking out like an axle. What you are doing is similar to a rivet.
> >
> > swmbo does jewelry, so I have seen her do this with her craft.
> >
> > I did not get it real tight because of the lack of room, but I don't think there is a lot of in/out pressure only left/right. If it fails again, I have a second repair piece. Some sites say to take out the lift and flatten the connection. I was afraid I would never get it back in.
> >
> > The first time I did the repair on another window, I drilled out the connector from both the arm and the slide, and replaced it with a nut and bolt. It hasn't failed, and that was the driver's window.
> >
> > I had to fix the window because swmbo said it looked like _____ to have tape holding up the window. The tape was clear not duct tape!!!
> >
> > The door panel is tricky also. unscrew everything, lift up with a putty knife from the back and front to elevate the clips straight up to release the panel.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> >
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@ wrote:
> > >
> > > Chuck,
> > >
> > > I'm fascinated by your comment about the window lift. Nate just
> > > replace the lift units in the driver's side front and rear doors (300SD). The
> > > plastic slide in the rear door had split. We couldn't see anyway for it to
> > > be a replacement part. So we P-a-P'd a 'new' rear lift.
> > >
> > > Were you able to replace just the plastic slide piece? If so, HOW did
> > > you get it over the large rivet head that it fits around?
> > >
> > > The 300SD front door lift had broken two rivets, rather than the
> > > plastic slide piece.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 12/20/2011 1:06:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > > jcrcpa@ writes:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sunday I finally repaired the rear window lift mechanism (the plastic
> > > slide had split in two)cheap part, my labor, also replaced the air cleaner
> > > mounts, replaced the two hood springs, and my aux fan switch arrived so that
> > > is next. Now I need to order the air cleaner mount bracket which has one
> > > end broken off, and a new antenna.
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > > 84-300sd
> > >
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re : Window Lift Slider Replacement
[diesel_mercedes] Re: weekend work
The plastic piece and rivet are all one unit. So you cannot just snap a new plastic piece around the rivet. I will try to remember to bring in the extra piece and scan it for posting. Once the rivet is free from the plastic case, the plastic case just slides out the channel. I should have taken pictures.
I think the channel locks idea would work, or even some vice grips to start the edges flaring. The rivet part is not a hard metal.
chuck
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> Chuck,
>
> Thank you. Your answer was pretty clear. So you're saying that MBZ
> has the plastic piece and the rivet as a spare part?!? Cool enough.
>
> I pretty much assumed that since the rivet was, well, riveted into the
> arm, that it wouldn't be available as a separate bit.
>
> The entire lift mechanism comes out relatively easily (or so it seems,
> from watching Nate do the actual work [heavy lifting? - no, I didn't make
> that pun, AOL inserted it after I hit "send"]). So I wonder if one could
> take the assembly to a shop that has a hydraulic press, and have that used
> to crush the new rivet into place.
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> Tom
>
>
> In a message dated 12/21/2011 6:33:05 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> jcrcpa@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Tom,
> I re-read the question, I may have missed something in my answer. The
> rivet and the plastic piece come together. This is why the rivet has to be
> drilled out of the arm. Ask again if I am not answering the questions you have.
>
> As a follow up. the rivet piece is concave, so the ball peen hammer takes
> those outer high edges and flattens them to push down on the arm thereby
> securing the arm to the slide.
>
> The problem is lack of room to swing the hammer. Or the jewelry hammer I
> was using was too lightweight. Which is why I may have to do the repair
> again.
>
> Chuck
>
> --- In _diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com_
> (mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com) , "c24052000" <jcrcpa@> wrote:
> >
> > I drilled out the old male protrusion from the lift arm. Grinder on
> drill to level out, and then drill bit to punch it out and enlarge the hole a
> bit. The replace ment piece fits in the slide, raise or lower winder to line
> up pieces, and then take a ballpeen hammer to flatten out the metal that
> is sticking out like an axle. What you are doing is similar to a rivet.
> >
> > swmbo does jewelry, so I have seen her do this with her craft.
> >
> > I did not get it real tight because of the lack of room, but I don't
> think there is a lot of in/out pressure only left/right. If it fails again, I
> have a second repair piece. Some sites say to take out the lift and flatten
> the connection. I was afraid I would never get it back in.
> >
> > The first time I did the repair on another window, I drilled out the
> connector from both the arm and the slide, and replaced it with a nut and
> bolt. It hasn't failed, and that was the driver's window.
> >
> > I had to fix the window because swmbo said it looked like _____ to have
> tape holding up the window. The tape was clear not duct tape!!!
> >
> > The door panel is tricky also. unscrew everything, lift up with a putty
> knife from the back and front to elevate the clips straight up to release
> the panel.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> >
> > --- In _diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com_
> (mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com) , audiolaw@ wrote:
> > >
> > > Chuck,
> > >
> > > I'm fascinated by your comment about the window lift. Nate just
> > > replace the lift units in the driver's side front and rear doors
> (300SD). The
> > > plastic slide in the rear door had split. We couldn't see anyway for
> it to
> > > be a replacement part. So we P-a-P'd a 'new' rear lift.
> > >
> > > Were you able to replace just the plastic slide piece? If so, HOW did
> > > you get it over the large rivet head that it fits around?
> > >
> > > The 300SD front door lift had broken two rivets, rather than the
> > > plastic slide piece.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 12/20/2011 1:06:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > > jcrcpa@ writes:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sunday I finally repaired the rear window lift mechanism (the
> plastic
> > > slide had split in two)cheap part, my labor, also replaced the air
> cleaner
> > > mounts, replaced the two hood springs, and my aux fan switch arrived
> so that
> > > is next. Now I need to order the air cleaner mount bracket which has
> one
> > > end broken off, and a new antenna.
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > > 84-300sd
> > >
> >
>
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Emergency Breakdown Help. Leak Found and Fixed (temporary)
Glad to hear you're back on the road.
The oil cooler lines are fairly cheap, yet the labor is PITA.
That said, you'll want to do it yourself, after the shop gives you a quote.
Been there...
Rob
'85 300D
Garden Grove, CA
==
On 12/21/11 1:27 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> Re: Emergency Breakdown Help. Leak Found and Fixed (temporary)
> Posted by: "BStromsoe"bstromsoe@yahoo.com bstromsoe
> Date: Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:01 am ((PST))
>
> Great. Not only did you find your issue, but we all waited with intense anxiety to find out which theory would win. I think hoses and fittings are the two main culprits for sudden oil, fuel, and water losses, so was happy to hear your issue solved. Nice that they are also relatively cheap fixes too.
>
>
> brian from laverne, ca
> Mary (195K) Martha (280K)
> 1983 w123 300d's
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Chip<czulli@gmail.com>
> To:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 7:06 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Emergency Breakdown Help. Leak Found and Fixed (temporary)
>
>
>
> My car went up on the rack this morning, with me inside, while my mechanic stood underneath. He had me bring my rpm's up to 2,000 and hold it and within minutes he found the leak.
>
> The large oil hose that runs from my filter to the top of my radiator had been sliced by the fan belt, and I know when it happened.
>
> As I was coming into Mongomery, Alabama a big truck pulled up really short in from of me and caused me to need to brake hard. During that hard braking I lost 3 of my four doughnuts that hold my muffler in place as I noticed rattling just after starting to pull off from that quick stop. I pulled over shortly there after and noticed some engine oil under the hood.
>
> Things must have slipped enough in the engine compartment to have allowed the fan belt to contact the hose. I had him also check my motor mounts, which are new, and they seemed fine.
>
> The fix will be temporary for the hose with a splice and a connector placed where the cut was, but it should allow me to get back to Texas and order a proper hose.
>
> Thanks from so many on this board for help and assistance. It took the rpm's to allow the leak to show up.
>
> I am having the undercarrage and motor steam cleaned before I pick the car up, as I had noted being worried about all that oil on the rubber stuff under the car.
>
> Chip
> Windsor, NC
>
>
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Digest Number 5056
Usually, you can tell the bad glow plugs, simply by removing the relay
cover, and the plug with the thicker wires, and touching each connector
in the plug with the multimeter set at Ohms, the other to a good ground.
My glow plug system stops working if 2 or more glow plugs are shot.
Rob
'85 300D
Garden Grove, CA
On 12/21/11 1:27 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> Re: Ontario CA PAP today/No start
> Posted by: "Lawrence Rhodes"primobassoon@sbcglobal.net looksee007
> Date: Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:40 am ((PST))
>
> You must test each glow plug. I measured a used but good plug and it registered
> .9 ohm. Take off the relay cover& pull the connector out to test or disconnect
> each one at the plug. Test with a multimeter. If the relay is connected you
> won't get a good test. All the glow plugs must be good to get the motor to
> start well. Lawrence Rhodes......
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Glow Plug Testing ~ the EASY Way
I just plug one in and lite my very large stogie. Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> I just put my index finger on the tip of the glow plug and hold it there for 30 seconds (just joking in case someone is)
>
> Â
> brian from laverne, ca
> Mary (195K)Â Martha (280K)
> 1983 w123 300d's
>
>
> __
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: weekend work
Tom,
I re-read the question, I may have missed something in my answer. The rivet and the plastic piece come together. This is why the rivet has to be drilled out of the arm. Ask again if I am not answering the questions you have.
As a follow up. the rivet piece is concave, so the ball peen hammer takes those outer high edges and flattens them to push down on the arm thereby securing the arm to the slide.
The problem is lack of room to swing the hammer. Or the jewelry hammer I was using was too lightweight. Which is why I may have to do the repair again.
Chuck
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@...> wrote:
>
> I drilled out the old male protrusion from the lift arm. Grinder on drill to level out, and then drill bit to punch it out and enlarge the hole a bit. The replace ment piece fits in the slide, raise or lower winder to line up pieces, and then take a ballpeen hammer to flatten out the metal that is sticking out like an axle. What you are doing is similar to a rivet.
>
> swmbo does jewelry, so I have seen her do this with her craft.
>
> I did not get it real tight because of the lack of room, but I don't think there is a lot of in/out pressure only left/right. If it fails again, I have a second repair piece. Some sites say to take out the lift and flatten the connection. I was afraid I would never get it back in.
>
> The first time I did the repair on another window, I drilled out the connector from both the arm and the slide, and replaced it with a nut and bolt. It hasn't failed, and that was the driver's window.
>
> I had to fix the window because swmbo said it looked like _____ to have tape holding up the window. The tape was clear not duct tape!!!
>
> The door panel is tricky also. unscrew everything, lift up with a putty knife from the back and front to elevate the clips straight up to release the panel.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@ wrote:
> >
> > Chuck,
> >
> > I'm fascinated by your comment about the window lift. Nate just
> > replace the lift units in the driver's side front and rear doors (300SD). The
> > plastic slide in the rear door had split. We couldn't see anyway for it to
> > be a replacement part. So we P-a-P'd a 'new' rear lift.
> >
> > Were you able to replace just the plastic slide piece? If so, HOW did
> > you get it over the large rivet head that it fits around?
> >
> > The 300SD front door lift had broken two rivets, rather than the
> > plastic slide piece.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/20/2011 1:06:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > jcrcpa@ writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sunday I finally repaired the rear window lift mechanism (the plastic
> > slide had split in two)cheap part, my labor, also replaced the air cleaner
> > mounts, replaced the two hood springs, and my aux fan switch arrived so that
> > is next. Now I need to order the air cleaner mount bracket which has one
> > end broken off, and a new antenna.
> >
> > Chuck
> > 84-300sd
> >
>
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: weekend work
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 9:33 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: weekend work
I re-read the question, I may have missed something in my answer. The rivet and the plastic piece come together. This is why the rivet has to be drilled out of the arm. Ask again if I am not answering the questions you have.
As a follow up. the rivet piece is concave, so the ball peen hammer takes those outer high edges and flattens them to push down on the arm thereby securing the arm to the slide.
The problem is lack of room to swing the hammer. Or the jewelry hammer I was using was too lightweight. Which is why I may have to do the repair again.
Chuck
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@...> wrote:
>
> I drilled out the old male protrusion from the lift arm. Grinder on drill to level out, and then drill bit to punch it out and enlarge the hole a bit. The replace ment piece fits in the slide, raise or lower winder to line up pieces, and then take a ballpeen hammer to flatten out the metal that is sticking out like an axle. What you are doing is similar to a rivet.
>
> swmbo does jewelry, so I have seen her do this with her craft.
>
> I did not get it real tight because of the lack of room, but I don't think there is a lot of in/out pressure only left/right. If it fails again, I have a second repair piece. Some sites say to take out the lift and flatten the connection. I was afraid I would never get it back in.
>
> The first time I did the repair on another window, I drilled out the connector from both the arm and the slide, and replaced it with a nut and bolt. It hasn't failed, and that was the driver's window.
>
> I had to fix the window because swmbo said it looked like _____ to have tape holding up the window. The tape was clear not duct tape!!!
>
> The door panel is tricky also. unscrew everything, lift up with a putty knife from the back and front to elevate the clips straight up to release the panel.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@ wrote:
> >
> > Chuck,
> >
> > I'm fascinated by your comment about the window lift. Nate just
> > replace the lift units in the driver's side front and rear doors (300SD). The
> > plastic slide in the rear door had split. We couldn't see anyway for it to
> > be a replacement part. So we P-a-P'd a 'new' rear lift.
> >
> > Were you able to replace just the plastic slide piece? If so, HOW did
> > you get it over the large rivet head that it fits around?
> >
> > The 300SD front door lift had broken two rivets, rather than the
> > plastic slide piece.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/20/2011 1:06:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > jcrcpa@ writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sunday I finally repaired the rear window lift mechanism (the plastic
> > slide had split in two)cheap part, my labor, also replaced the air cleaner
> > mounts, replaced the two hood springs, and my aux fan switch arrived so that
> > is next. Now I need to order the air cleaner mount bracket which has one
> > end broken off, and a new antenna.
> >
> > Chuck
> > 84-300sd
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: weekend work
Tom,
I re-read the question, I may have missed something in my answer. The rivet and the plastic piece come together. This is why the rivet has to be drilled out of the arm. Ask again if I am not answering the questions you have.
As a follow up. the rivet piece is concave, so the ball peen hammer takes those outer high edges and flattens them to push down on the arm thereby securing the arm to the slide.
The problem is lack of room to swing the hammer. Or the jewelry hammer I was using was too lightweight. Which is why I may have to do the repair again.
Chuck
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@...> wrote:
>
> I drilled out the old male protrusion from the lift arm. Grinder on drill to level out, and then drill bit to punch it out and enlarge the hole a bit. The replace ment piece fits in the slide, raise or lower winder to line up pieces, and then take a ballpeen hammer to flatten out the metal that is sticking out like an axle. What you are doing is similar to a rivet.
>
> swmbo does jewelry, so I have seen her do this with her craft.
>
> I did not get it real tight because of the lack of room, but I don't think there is a lot of in/out pressure only left/right. If it fails again, I have a second repair piece. Some sites say to take out the lift and flatten the connection. I was afraid I would never get it back in.
>
> The first time I did the repair on another window, I drilled out the connector from both the arm and the slide, and replaced it with a nut and bolt. It hasn't failed, and that was the driver's window.
>
> I had to fix the window because swmbo said it looked like _____ to have tape holding up the window. The tape was clear not duct tape!!!
>
> The door panel is tricky also. unscrew everything, lift up with a putty knife from the back and front to elevate the clips straight up to release the panel.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@ wrote:
> >
> > Chuck,
> >
> > I'm fascinated by your comment about the window lift. Nate just
> > replace the lift units in the driver's side front and rear doors (300SD). The
> > plastic slide in the rear door had split. We couldn't see anyway for it to
> > be a replacement part. So we P-a-P'd a 'new' rear lift.
> >
> > Were you able to replace just the plastic slide piece? If so, HOW did
> > you get it over the large rivet head that it fits around?
> >
> > The 300SD front door lift had broken two rivets, rather than the
> > plastic slide piece.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/20/2011 1:06:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > jcrcpa@ writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sunday I finally repaired the rear window lift mechanism (the plastic
> > slide had split in two)cheap part, my labor, also replaced the air cleaner
> > mounts, replaced the two hood springs, and my aux fan switch arrived so that
> > is next. Now I need to order the air cleaner mount bracket which has one
> > end broken off, and a new antenna.
> >
> > Chuck
> > 84-300sd
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: weekend work
I drilled out the old male protrusion from the lift arm. Grinder on drill to level out, and then drill bit to punch it out and enlarge the hole a bit. The replace ment piece fits in the slide, raise or lower winder to line up pieces, and then take a ballpeen hammer to flatten out the metal that is sticking out like an axle. What you are doing is similar to a rivet.
swmbo does jewelry, so I have seen her do this with her craft.
I did not get it real tight because of the lack of room, but I don't think there is a lot of in/out pressure only left/right. If it fails again, I have a second repair piece. Some sites say to take out the lift and flatten the connection. I was afraid I would never get it back in.
The first time I did the repair on another window, I drilled out the connector from both the arm and the slide, and replaced it with a nut and bolt. It hasn't failed, and that was the driver's window.
I had to fix the window because swmbo said it looked like _____ to have tape holding up the window. The tape was clear not duct tape!!!
The door panel is tricky also. unscrew everything, lift up with a putty knife from the back and front to elevate the clips straight up to release the panel.
Chuck
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> Chuck,
>
> I'm fascinated by your comment about the window lift. Nate just
> replace the lift units in the driver's side front and rear doors (300SD). The
> plastic slide in the rear door had split. We couldn't see anyway for it to
> be a replacement part. So we P-a-P'd a 'new' rear lift.
>
> Were you able to replace just the plastic slide piece? If so, HOW did
> you get it over the large rivet head that it fits around?
>
> The 300SD front door lift had broken two rivets, rather than the
> plastic slide piece.
>
> Tom
>
>
> In a message dated 12/20/2011 1:06:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> jcrcpa@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> On Sunday I finally repaired the rear window lift mechanism (the plastic
> slide had split in two)cheap part, my labor, also replaced the air cleaner
> mounts, replaced the two hood springs, and my aux fan switch arrived so that
> is next. Now I need to order the air cleaner mount bracket which has one
> end broken off, and a new antenna.
>
> Chuck
> 84-300sd
>