So ;
After dropping my old truck off to the Charity place , having breakfast and working on Tom's 300SD , I was passing my a local P-A-P and decided to pop in for a look , they actually had a couple W-123's and I was able to find some good used door lock actuators and one for the trunk too , plus those damned wobbly pot metal inside door handle thingies (Technical Term there) that are *still* wobbly on SWMBO's 240D ever since we bought it eons ago .
I also found a high speed pumpkin for a Metropolitan Nash but by then I was beat in spite of wearing a sun hat (97° F) so I hid the various plastic bags & clean carpets etc. I'd collected to work underneath the car on , I hope to get out there early to - morrow morning when they're opening the gate and grab my parts before the sun gets hot .
I arrived home and set to work repairing the trunk lock on SWMBO's 240D , now it works correctly and when I remove the key the engine stops within 30 seconds .
Maybe Tom will come by and we'll hit another yard or two and I'll find a gas flap actuator too .
-Nate
[diesel_mercedes] Re : ' Might As Wells ' (more)
[diesel_mercedes] Vacuum Pump Service
Tom's '81 300SD has had an on going problem of the vacuum stopping resulting in rock hard brakes and the engine not shutting off when the key is removed . the HVAC also often defaults to the defrost mode , not fun in L.A. hot weather .
Because of how it does this , I felt the vacuum pump (the style with only one pipe connected to it) had a failing check valve , I grabbed one @ P-A-P and by the time he brought the car to me I'd carefully
" stored " it some place where it'll be safe & sound but I'll never see it again .
So ,I got another one and this time Tom decided to only wait a month or three , to - day when I unscrewed the steel vacuum pipe from the pump , part of the valve fell out and bounced off , not to be found . I found the steel parts , spring , retainer etc. all down inside the pump proper where I was luckily able to fish them out with a magnet .
I had my Mity-Vac tool handy and before taking it apart , the pump created 15" of vacuum , after replacing the broken valve it created 19" of vacuum (4" is a _LOT_ of vacuum) and the engine stopped quickly instead of slowly loosing speed and shuddering to a stop .
With the engine idling , I tested the various vacuum circuits by gently pinching them shut with some duck bill pliers , the brown circuit that shuts off the engine leaks as does the (green? I forget) HVAC circuit also leaks though not profesely .
He called a bit later to say it was better but still leaked out the brake's vacuum when idling , I'm thinking the entire pump needs a proper rebuild including new diaphragm and valves instead of just one used junkyard valve .
I'm also betting that the two rubber connecting hoses underneath the dashboard , are slimy with oil , blubbery and leaking vacuum out profusely .
We'll see .
-Nate
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: engine coolant drain location ? 1978 300D
On 7/23/2011 7:28 PM, Nate wrote:
> It's hard to see , a hex head 17MM steel plug almost *perfectly*
> behind the vertical part of the exhaust pipe .
Just in front of the starter and a little above. Use a flashlight to
locate. Once you see it you know where it is.
--
Stan George Portland <<
[diesel_mercedes] Re : W-123 Starter Connector Box
Some years it's up high on the fenderwell , others it's down low on the ' frame rail ' near the alternator .
-Nate
Jim wrote:
>
> My 84 300D has that jumper box but my 82 240D does not.
>
> Jim
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Yep ;
> >
> > This works a treat when you're stuck ~ use an unbent paperclip or old pair of needle nosed pliers.....
> >
> > It's a good primary test to see if the starter's still O.K. , when Tom and I were far deep into Washington State and his SD refused to crank over , I did this to discern the starter was Kaputi .
> >
> > The solenoid was quite literally toast and crumbled in my hands as I unbolted the battery cable .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Manjeet (I *think*) wrote:
> > >
> > > I think somebody posted a while ago a method of starting the car directly by jumpering the two red wires/plugs that are in a small box on the fender wall (to the front of, same side as the battery). This jump starts the starter.
> > >
> > > 300sd 1984 260k+
> > >
> > >
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1986 300SDL radio removal
You have a different radio , a Becker Grand Prix I think .
It comes out differently , fairly easily but WAIT until we know *exectly* which Becker you have before attacking it ! the pry out plastic bits is for an older (1970's vintage) Becker with two knobs , not a plethora of buttons .
-Nate
Rodger wrote:
>
> Hello All
>
> My wife's 300SDL tape player does not work. The book said to pry out the two small plastic pieces on either side of the radio and remove the bolts. Is there a trick to removing the plastic pieces with out breaking them? I want to update the music system.
>
> thank you
> Rodger
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: engine coolant drain location ? 1978 300D
It's hard to see , a hex head 17MM steel plug almost *perfectly* behind the vertical part of the exhaust pipe .
I use a 6 point 3/8" drive 17 MM socket on a 6" " wobble " extension to get it out .
Expect to drop the thin washer that seals it into place .
Expect to burn the crap out of your knuckles if the engine is at all warm , part of the job don'cha know ~ I just did this and after all these years I _still_ burned my knuckles so just swear a lot and you'll get through it .
I find it's easier to re - install the block drain plug if I'm not actually looking at it ,
I do it from above as I never want to be scalded by boiling hot coolant ever again , I still have scars from that and it was over 30 years ago .
Remember to tie up the dog and house the cat as they like to drink coolant and once they do , they'll _DIE_ , not a thing you can do to save them .
Collect and recycle the old nasty stuff & hose the rest that you can't mop up away really well , it only take s little bit to kill your pets .
Sadly , squirrels and rats/mice don't like it else I'd have bowls of it on my roof .
-Nate
Rodger wrote:
>
> Hello All
>
> I can not find the drain plug on the engine (not radiator)of my 1978 300D (non turbo).
>
> Do I look from top or bottom?
> Do I have to remove anything to see it?
> where is it?
> What does it look like?
>
> Thank you
> Rodger
>
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Transmission oil
On 7/23/2011 4:05 PM, Nate Rector wrote:
Ah, so that's why I have 12 Quarts of Dexron on my shelf. I remember using it on the 4 spd in my 240D but didn't remember what I used in the auto transmissions. Thanks.
dexron.I use sync. atf.
--- On Sat, 7/23/11, Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net> wrote:
From: Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net>
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Transmission oil
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, July 23, 2011, 2:42 PM
Being blessed with a short memory, I've hit a point where I wish it
were longer. I can't remember the recommended trans fluid for my 83 D &
SD. The computer manual is no help. In the owners manual section it
doesn't mention the trans and for the other fluids it says "see Your
dealer". What is the site 's rec. on this one?
[diesel_mercedes] Bouncy fuel gauge repair W123
As has been mentioned here before, the fuel needles sometimes get bouncy, frequently an issue with the sender inside the fuel tank. I just removed my sender and cleaned it up, hopefully this will solve the problem. The W123 sender is below the first aid kit holder. I unscrew mine by clamping a jumbo vice grip on it.
http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-large-jaw-locking-pliers
Of course, remove the wires, and then you can clamp the vice grips on and use a screwdriver as a lever to turn it. Have a plastic bag ready to put the sender in, it will be full of fuel and dripping.
Once removed, you can use a pair of pliers to unscrew the nut at the bottom, and carefully remove the exterior tube. It may be full of nasty goo so do this over some old newspaper.
The wires are flimsy but I just folded a 1" x 2" piece of fine sandpaper over each one and ran it up and down the length to knock off any crud that may have collected on it. The float has some contacts on it and I used a small screwdriver to try and bend them so they would make stronger contact. I sprayed the contacts with gum cutter aka carb cleaner. Also sprayed out the tube a bit and then put it back together. Hopefully this will solve the bouncy needle. Took about 30 minutes.
Jim
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Transmission oil
dexron.I use sync. atf. --- On Sat, 7/23/11, Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net> wrote:
|
[diesel_mercedes] OK here are some pix WAS Re: Ignition switch swap-out report W123 82 240D
Ignition switch swap-out W123 82 240D
Read the comments on these three pix if you're going to do this job! It will save you a lot of frustration! Haynes/Chilton/CDs don't have this info. New part is different from original...original has a nylon T connector that holds the wire harness plug on until the key is turned to ON.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/album/1461991237/pic/list
Jim
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> Ahh, you have found my problem. I need to do some other things while my instrument panel is out (clock, etc.), but the "intermittent" dead start click is right up there too. Don't suppose you took 25 pictures?
>
> Â
> brian from la verne, ca
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: n61cm <jim@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 10:19 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Ignition switch swap-out report W123 82 240D
>
>
> Â
> Engine not starting every time, had previously swapped out starter, but when tested removed original starter, no problem with it. Intermittent non-start condition continued, so decided to swap out the ignition switch. TEDIOUS - I enjoyed swapping out the starter more than this job. One thing to remember about getting that switch out - on the original equipment, you must turn the key to ON to release the wire plug from the back. Chilton/Haynes/CDs leave this step out. Occurred to me after an hour of struggling to remove what I thought was a plug that had gotten corroded in place. The switch itself is held in by three 4mm straight slot screws, b!tch to get out. Took them to Home Depot and got allen head screws to replace them with, used an allen bit of about 2" length and a 1/4" wrench to reinstall. Everything went back together fine after that. This is a tedious job that requires the instrument panel to be removed. I think it solved my problem.
> Car seems to be more responsive to starting believe it or not. Or maybe I'm just imagining things. Since it was an intermittent problem, I'm going to have to wait until I forget all about it before I know that I've really fixed it. You'll hear me cursing if the problem returns.
>
> https://www.autohausaz.com/search/imageexpand.aspx?imageurl=../secure/PartImages/2025450104.jpg
>
> Part # 2025450104
>
> Jim
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Ignition switch swap-out report W123 82 240D
My 84 300D has that jumper box but my 82 240D does not.
Jim
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Yep ;
>
> This works a treat when you're stuck ~ use an unbent paperclip or old pair of needle nosed pliers.....
>
> It's a good primary test to see if the starter's still O.K. , when Tom and I were far deep into Washington State and his SD refused to crank over , I did this to discern the starter was Kaputi .
>
> The solenoid was quite literally toast and crumbled in my hands as I unbolted the battery cable .
>
> -Nate
> Manjeet (I *think*) wrote:
> >
> > I think somebody posted a while ago a method of starting the car directly by jumpering the two red wires/plugs that are in a small box on the fender wall (to the front of, same side as the battery). This jump starts the starter.
> >
> > 300sd 1984 260k+
> >
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Transmission oil
Being blessed with a short memory, I've hit a point where I wish it
were longer. I can't remember the recommended trans fluid for my 83 D &
SD. The computer manual is no help. In the owners manual section it
doesn't mention the trans and for the other fluids it says "see Your
dealer". What is the site 's rec. on this one?
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Quick fix for clogged windshield sprayers
It's a spray with a red straw tube nozzle like WD40. It's better than zinc for getting rusty nuts loose LOL. Maybe that's what actually unclogged the windshield sprayer nozzles and the computer-cleaner air spray can was unnecessary. I'll figure it out next time.
Jim
Re: [diesel_mercedes] engine coolant drain location ? 1978 300D
On 7/23/2011 2:03 PM, rkitt2002 wrote:
I use the lower hose or the radiator drain.Hello All
I can not find the drain plug on the engine (not radiator)of my 1978 300D (non turbo).
Do I look from top or bottom?
Do I have to remove anything to see it?
where is it?
What does it look like?
Thank you
Rodger
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Quick fix for clogged windshield sprayers
From: max_stemple <max_stemple@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 9:56 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Quick fix for clogged windshield sprayers
What is PB blaster? And how did you get into each nozzel? Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "n61cm" <jim@...> wrote:
>
> OK found this technique today out of desperation. Windshield sprayers all clogged up. First a drop of PB Blaster shot into each nozzle, then one minute later, a shot of air from a computer air duster can. Worked like a charm. Did the PB Blaster actually do anything? I don't know, maybe the air did it all by itself. But they opened up fully and immediately.
>
> Jim
>