Trish wrote
> Now I see moisture on one of the oil cooler lines. *Sigh*
I have seen other rubber reinforced lines "sweat" for whatever reason.
Air conditioning lines, oil cooler lines etc. Unless you actually see
fluid that should be on the inside coming through to the outside I
wouldn't worry too much. If it is actually "oil" on the outside check
to see if it is a drip running down from a fitting. Don't know why
hoses "sweat".
--
Stan George Portland <<
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: WAS: Rear Main Oil Seal leak NOW: Oil Cooler Line moisture
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: WAS: Rear Main Oil Seal leak NOW: Oil Cooler Line moisture
Mary (195K) Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's
From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 4:26 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: WAS: Rear Main Oil Seal leak NOW: Oil Cooler Line moisture
How soon do I have to change that? How safe is it to drive? Can these hoses blow like a radiator hose?
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: WAS: Rear Main Oil Seal leak NOW: Oil Cooler Line moisture
My plans would be altered in a seriously bad way if I tried to make the trip & the line blew. No thanks. Guess I'll look into getting those asap. Hope I can find them local and not have to buy them online.
Those lines failing is the #1 cause of engine failure in these cars. I would change it first but that will alter your plans.
On 5/31/2012 6:26 PM, Trish Dougherty wrote:Now I see moisture on one of the oil cooler lines. *Sigh*
How soon do I have to change that? How safe is it to drive? Can these hoses blow like a radiator hose?
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: WAS: Rear Main Oil Seal leak NOW: Oil Cooler Line moisture
On 5/31/2012 6:26 PM, Trish Dougherty wrote:
Now I see moisture on one of the oil cooler lines. *Sigh*
How soon do I have to change that? How safe is it to drive? Can these hoses blow like a radiator hose?
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
[diesel_mercedes] Re: WAS: Rear Main Oil Seal leak NOW: Oil Cooler Line moisture
Now I see moisture on one of the oil cooler lines. *Sigh*
How soon do I have to change that? How safe is it to drive? Can these hoses blow like a radiator hose?
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Rear Main Oil Seal leak
differential housing EH? Wow, anyway, the rear main seal the Arizona auto haus sells is not the slip on rubber type that the front is but the type Mark mentioned. Bummer, but it sure looks that way. But they are cheap, not that it matters. Less than $10. Tony what are you talking about? I need more information, .P.S. Bring your valves down here and roll my hospital bed outside and I will direct you to a adjustment.Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Lost but making good time." <aldridgetony97@...> wrote:
>
> Trish, the oil leak is in the differential housing, it always occurs when the bull shaft comes away from the heifer valve, this allows the engine oil to leak down inside the driveshaft. Do not listen to anyone tells you different.
> Tony
>
> PS Nate, when you coming up to do adjust my valves?????
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "max_stemple" <jasperezra@> wrote:
> >
> > Thats what I had heard years about these things. Major job,Max
> >
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@> wrote:
> > >
> > > No way!!
> > >
> > >
> > > There are two steel pins, one each in the engine block and the other in the aluminum bottom engine cover (most call this part the "oil pan") where the seal is located. These pins go about half-way into the two seal halves. They are there specifically to keep the seal from rotating. SO, not only does the transmission and flex plate need to be removed, but this aluminum cover needs to be pulled, and the crank mains loosened to allow the crankshaft to drop enough for the upper seal half to be popped out. AND, the engine must be unbolted from the mounts and lifted up enough to allow the aluminum cover to clear the frame member so as to get access to the mains.
> > >
> > >
> > > Maybe not thousands in labor, but, well over $1000, anyway.
> > >
> > >
> > > Believe me, BTDT, shoulda taken photos and posted them so's I could write the book, etc....
> > >
> > >
> > > (And that was on a W116, which has more room than a W123!)
> > >
> > >
> > > Mark in Lakewood, CO
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Trish Dougherty" <purrfectharmonyfarm@>
> > > To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:53:37 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Rear Main Oil Seal leak
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 1:54 PM, Nate < vwnate1@ > wrote:
> > >
> > > This shouldn't be a deal breaker , any competent German Car mechanic should be able to pop out the tranny and flex plate then replace the $25.00 seal , button it all back up again .
> > >
> > > I have no idea on the labor but I'd think no more than $250.00 labor .
> > >
> > > Huh really? I'll check around. I imagined it to cost in the thousands. I can always trade food for labor...I know a very trusted mechanic that is willing to barter, or he used (no not Kevin).
> > > Trish Dougherty
> > > PurrFect Harmony Farm
> > > Ennis, TX
> > > http:/ purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
> > >
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Rear Main Oil Seal leak
Trish, the oil leak is in the differential housing, it always occurs when the bull shaft comes away from the heifer valve, this allows the engine oil to leak down inside the driveshaft. Do not listen to anyone tells you different.
Tony
PS Nate, when you coming up to do adjust my valves?????
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "max_stemple" <jasperezra@...> wrote:
>
> Thats what I had heard years about these things. Major job,Max
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@> wrote:
> >
> > No way!!
> >
> >
> > There are two steel pins, one each in the engine block and the other in the aluminum bottom engine cover (most call this part the "oil pan") where the seal is located. These pins go about half-way into the two seal halves. They are there specifically to keep the seal from rotating. SO, not only does the transmission and flex plate need to be removed, but this aluminum cover needs to be pulled, and the crank mains loosened to allow the crankshaft to drop enough for the upper seal half to be popped out. AND, the engine must be unbolted from the mounts and lifted up enough to allow the aluminum cover to clear the frame member so as to get access to the mains.
> >
> >
> > Maybe not thousands in labor, but, well over $1000, anyway.
> >
> >
> > Believe me, BTDT, shoulda taken photos and posted them so's I could write the book, etc....
> >
> >
> > (And that was on a W116, which has more room than a W123!)
> >
> >
> > Mark in Lakewood, CO
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Trish Dougherty" <purrfectharmonyfarm@>
> > To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:53:37 PM
> > Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Rear Main Oil Seal leak
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 1:54 PM, Nate < vwnate1@ > wrote:
> >
> > This shouldn't be a deal breaker , any competent German Car mechanic should be able to pop out the tranny and flex plate then replace the $25.00 seal , button it all back up again .
> >
> > I have no idea on the labor but I'd think no more than $250.00 labor .
> >
> > Huh really? I'll check around. I imagined it to cost in the thousands. I can always trade food for labor...I know a very trusted mechanic that is willing to barter, or he used (no not Kevin).
> > Trish Dougherty
> > PurrFect Harmony Farm
> > Ennis, TX
> > http:/ purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Rear Main Oil Seal leak
Thats what I had heard years about these things. Major job,Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@...> wrote:
>
> No way!!
>
>
> There are two steel pins, one each in the engine block and the other in the aluminum bottom engine cover (most call this part the "oil pan") where the seal is located. These pins go about half-way into the two seal halves. They are there specifically to keep the seal from rotating. SO, not only does the transmission and flex plate need to be removed, but this aluminum cover needs to be pulled, and the crank mains loosened to allow the crankshaft to drop enough for the upper seal half to be popped out. AND, the engine must be unbolted from the mounts and lifted up enough to allow the aluminum cover to clear the frame member so as to get access to the mains.
>
>
> Maybe not thousands in labor, but, well over $1000, anyway.
>
>
> Believe me, BTDT, shoulda taken photos and posted them so's I could write the book, etc....
>
>
> (And that was on a W116, which has more room than a W123!)
>
>
> Mark in Lakewood, CO
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Trish Dougherty" <purrfectharmonyfarm@...>
> To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:53:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Rear Main Oil Seal leak
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 1:54 PM, Nate < vwnate1@... > wrote:
>
> This shouldn't be a deal breaker , any competent German Car mechanic should be able to pop out the tranny and flex plate then replace the $25.00 seal , button it all back up again .
>
> I have no idea on the labor but I'd think no more than $250.00 labor .
>
> Huh really? I'll check around. I imagined it to cost in the thousands. I can always trade food for labor...I know a very trusted mechanic that is willing to barter, or he used (no not Kevin).
> Trish Dougherty
> PurrFect Harmony Farm
> Ennis, TX
> http:/ purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
>
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 83;; 300 SD engine miss
Mary (195K) Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's
From: Roland Hyatt <wrolandhyattjr@sbcglobal.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:02 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 83;; 300 SD engine miss
There's some confusion about Startron. It seems there are 2 versions.
There is the Starbrite enzyme fuel treatment and a tank cleaner from
Amazon and another, much more expensive that I bought at NAPA. To which
one are you referring? There is a Startron and a Soltron. There is a
lot of flap about which is which and whether or not they are the same
thing - all having to do with licensing, etc.. I didn't do enough
research to get an answer. I don't know????
Roland Hyatt
[diesel_mercedes] Re: 83;; 300 SD engine miss
Nate:
There's some confusion about Startron. It seems there are 2 versions.
There is the Starbrite enzyme fuel treatment and a tank cleaner from
Amazon and another, much more expensive that I bought at NAPA. To which
one are you referring? There is a Startron and a Soltron. There is a
lot of flap about which is which and whether or not they are the same
thing - all having to do with licensing, etc.. I didn't do enough
research to get an answer. I don't know????
Roland Hyatt
[diesel_mercedes] Re: 83;; 300 SD engine miss
Thanks Nate, I have one more courisity question. There is a line that forms a venturi ,or it gets fat in the center , off of the filter area. I asume if it forms a venturi on the outside, it is the same on the inside, meaning it changes or controls some fuel presure. But I have noticed a bit of softening in it, squesing with my fingers. How critical is the shape of this line in presure control ?
It is best to supervise your son adjusting the valves as it's easy to damage things in there .
(((((((( Funny you say that, he has a repuation of being pure gold with a few local farmers, repairing equipement, but unlike dear old dad, they never observed him on delicate stuff. On the other hand , I will be gratefull to have a son who can and will do it.))))))))))))))
The Startron and growth makes excelent sence to me. Invariable, those of us who run home brew, will have errors. I have a wooden yard stick I use to stir methoxcide, the methanole and KOH mix. It will be dry as a bone, but let humidity get in the air and it gets wet as a spung. I also notice, water accumulation in any plastic or metal container , that I do not wash, that contained meth oxcide. so it makes sence that a less than prefect fuel home brew would create conditions for growing bacteria, after a few years.
Just general comment here, this class of car has become very adicitive to us, meaning the ride and the way it drives and handles. We live rural and some very rought roads, but it has not developed rattles and such that newer cars seem to develope in a year. I have been pleased that some things, starter as an example are easily available through local parts house. Other things like the instrument cluster, iI had to replace, ethier outragiously expensive or hard to find in a junk yard, plus drive 70 to 100 miles to get it.
I often think, if I would have bought one of these,before the hit 100,000 miles, not let anyone drive it other than myself and wife, kept it on a periodic maintance program; one would last for a persons entire life . In my opinion, a younger person who bought one of these today, and spent $12,000 to $15,000 on a complete professional, no corners cut, rebuild and paint and interior as neded, would get much more for their money, vice buying a brand new car. But that is my opinion. Bill C
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> VALVE ADJUST ~ this is _ALWAYS_ the first step .
>
> As long as there's crud in the intake fuel screen , I'd be adding 3Oz. of STARTRON and nothing else (The salesman will insist his crap is better , it's NOT) .
>
> Water etches the IP but it blows the tips out of the injector nozzles causing right running and black smoking .
>
> It is best to supervise your son adjusting the valves as it's easy to damage things in there .
>
> -Nate