[diesel_mercedes] Getting Ready......

 

To see if I can use tools or not .

I just ordered up a new air filter, secondary fuel filter and spare clear plastic intake screens from Pelican Parts in Harbor City, they claim it'll be ready for will call to - morrow morning, we'll  see .


I had O.T. on my hand / wrist again to - day, hoo boy does that hurt and am I tired .


-Nate

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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com
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[diesel_mercedes] Getting Ready.........................

 

To see if I can use tools or not .

I just ordered up a new air filter, secondary fuel filter and spare clear plastic intake screens for my '84 300CD from Pelican Parts in Harbor City, they claim it'll be ready for will call to - morrow morning, we'll  see .

I had O.T. on my hand / wrist again to - day, hoo boy does that hurt and am I tired .

-Nate

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Posted by: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
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[diesel_mercedes] Fuel Economy Check '84 300CD Automatic

 

372 miles, Diesel Kleen used, 24MPG .

$3.43 / gallon .

-Nate


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Progress

 

This last summer the Big R (North 40) store had diesel fuel treatment , Power Source on sale  for about $10 a bottle, for the new gallon size which is about 80oz. Good price.  It even had a $10 dollar rebate. I bought 2 jugs, sent in the rebate and after months of forgetting about it the rebate finally came. Ha, ha. I use a propane torch everytime I start my diesel generator in winter. I took off the clamp for the air intake and pop off the big hose and stick the lit torch near the opening, makes starting easy and possible. Otherwise very difficult.  Its sure getting dark. Max

On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 2:11 PM, vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:




? What brand / typ of fuel cleaner ? .

I sometimes run pure diesel fuel treatments and never have any problems.....

Mostly I use Diesel Kleen, K100 and Startron .

-Nate
        Mark   wrote :

Haven't been writing much lately. Working on my dad's estate and trying
to keep the 240 in running shape. Driving it 50 miles a day seems to
have cleaned the engine up to a point. A few weeks ago, I made the
mistake of overdosing it on diesel cleaner. I suffered through a tankful
of horrible idles. Word to the wise: there is really such a thing as too
much of a good thing.
I still am having trouble getting it to start after short runs. But I
think I am on to something. Tonight, after cranking it to near death, I
just for the heck of it decided to disconnect the vacuum line going to
the kill diaphragm. A hiss of air showed that it was still in kill mode.
Replacing it, I jumped in the car and it still would not start. This
time I left it off and it fired perfectly!
So, my problem is that the ignition vacuum valve works to kill the
engine just fine, but it does not release the vacuum once the key is on.
Here's the question:
Turning the key counter clockwise, the valve opens a path for vacuum to
pull the vacuum valve, killing the engine, but once the key is on, how
does it release said vacuum? Is it possible that the lines can be
reversed at the valve, and one of the ports opens to the atmosphere to
release the vacuum and the other does not? And being reversed, would it
also cause a vacuum leak?
I am going to reverse those hoses in the morning and will report back.
If this is true, I will for the first time have a truly reliable car.
On another front, I bought a transmission mount from Rock Auto a while
ago and finally got around to installing it. I should have thrown it
away instead of the old one. The center attachment, which I now realize
serves only as a safety, is cast into the rubber on the new one so
thoroughly and stiffly that when installed, it feels as if the engine is
sitting straight down on the cross member. The car drummed and vibrated
like a tractor. I couldn't turn the radio up high enough to drown out
the noise! I luckily was able to fish my original out of the trash (I
now realize that there is nothing wrong with it: the center is SUPPOSED
to be loose!) and reinstall it. I figured out that it might have settled
a little and the center was transferring some vibrations, but now that I
see how it is designed, I left the through-bolt loose (it passes through
a pair of slots in the cross member intended to make for this type of
adjustment) until the last, with the weight of the trans back on the
mount. I then tightened the cross bolt, making sure that it was centered
in the area it passes through. The car is smoother than ever.

--
Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.
Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully



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Posted by: Max temple <jasperezra@gmail.com>
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Vacuum Shifting Valve

 

It will be the "he said, she said" gambit. It is a used block and a rebuilt head, so the valve is expendable in the grand scheme of things. For now, I am learning how to "modulate" my shifting; i.e., get the rpm's just so to avoid hard shifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. It's livable but a PIA.

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[diesel_mercedes] Filling Station Fun

 

So ;

Yesterday I needed to fill my tank and went to the Propel station on PCH @ the 110 freeway, discovered both add on paper element filters to be dirty, the fuel looks clear as glass but tiny bits of who knows what were stuck to the inside of the clear plastic and the paper medium was dark brown .

It turns out the correct band clamps are size 12, of course one went missing so I only installed one paper filter, on the return line .

The air filter is also dirty, I tried replacing the one broken air cleaner rubber mount but need a socket ~ the toolkit 10MM wrench won't loosen the nuts .

Everything else looks O.K., I need to change the oil and filter plus of course the air filter and maybe the spin on secondary fuel filter just to be safe......

Pelican Parts here I come .

-Nate


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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com
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