Diesel RVs: 08/19/16

Re: [diesel_mercedes] loping engine

If your return lines leak, they need replaced. Cheap and easy job. You dont need to buy the hose from Mercedes. Max

On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 6:18 PM, Carl diyernh@comcast.net [diesel_mercedes] <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Sometimes it's small details.... Where is the "fuel galley return hose outlet check valve"? I'm seeing bad leaking on the injector return hoses. The injectors aren't supplying the quantity of fuel, it is coming from the fuel filter. Is there supposed to be a check valve to avoid the flow from the filter banjo bolt to injector overflow hose?

Thanks for the info.

Carl

On 8/16/2016 11:08 PM, Bogy Wan Kenobi polespearbogy@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:

Nate (and everyoone) but especially nate;

A few days ago you talked about finding the weak cylinder in a loping engine. I have lost the email, but I believe you tried the one-at-a-time cylinder method where you "crack the nuts" one at a time and look for a lack of change in the engine. I believe you said that it revealed nothing and I have been mulling that for a few days as I have the same thing in my TD. Every cylinder was contributing to the operation of the engine at idle and cracking the nuts one at a time actually proved that. The engine was obviously benefiting from each cylinder and every nut I cracked slowed the engine down. So here is what I came up with FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH . . .

The problem isn't a non contributing cylinder. It is one or more under-contributing cylinder(s). Probably close to each other in the injecting order. ( yeah, right, like any two cylinders could be more than two apart in the injecting order. (slaps forehead) well duhhh.) it's an issue of ballance, in other words.

Anyway, having gained a wealth of understanding dealing with my jeep engine, today I went after the fuel system on my 300TD.

   I replaced every outlet check valve,

   I tested every injector - 4 "popped" at about 1700 - 1800 and one was less than 1500

   I replaced the weak injector with another one that popped at 1700 - 1800.

   I used one of my test adapters to check each outlet under pressure for a spray pattern at cranking speed.

      (this is not a rigorous test but can reveal obviously low or high flows through the injector.)

   I cleaned the heat shields and seats under them on each injector hole.

   I cleaned the check valves in the lift pump

   I cleaned and unstuck the fuel galley return hose outlet check valve

   Then I put it all together and bled it out and got only a barel noticeable difference.

Then I did the unthinkable in an attempt to balance the contribution of each cylinder - I loosened the 13mm nuts on the outlet pipes (but just barely since those shims are part of the tune of the system) and one by one I twisted the outlet with a 15mm wrench. Stress 15mm! (At this point let me just say that I haven't learned what I know by listening to those who tell me not to ever do something.) On each outlet one of two things happened - 1) either the engine changed speeds a bit or 2)the loping diminished. If the speeds changed I let the springiness of the delivery pipe return it to it's original position then helped it with the wrench find it's old position. But . . . if the loping or chugging or (insert you favorite word for imbalance here) diminished I worked it until it was as smooth as possible with that outlet pipe. In my case #2 and #5 IIRC noticeably affected the smoothness of the engine. When I got it as smooth as possible on any adjustment I tightened down one of the 13mm nuts. I kept repeating this with all cylinders that would improve the smoothness. Those that only changed engine speeds I left alone. When I got it as smooth as I could I locked down all the 13mm nuts and then cracked and tightened each 17mm nut to relieve the spring stress from twisting the delivery lines.

The result - there is still an audibly noticeable imbalance. But the engine is not shaking anywhere near as much as it did 20 minutes before the procedure. In fact it is remarkably stable. It has a very regular clatter even with the slightly audible imbalance. Perhaps a new rack damper is in order.

Anyway, this "worked for me". So I thought I would pass it along. Hope it helps.

Bogy

"Hardware eventually fails. Software eventually works"                 - Michael Hartung

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Posted by: Max temple <jasperezra@gmail.com>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Tranny Overhaul

Nate,

I responded in your text, maybe it got cut.

Yes, there's a great MB tranny guy in OC, who's been the guy the MB shops send off their trannys to, and in the past has done some non-rebuild repairs/adjusts which got me another 50K. He's moving from his commercial space to his garage, semi-retire or something. http://www.transmeister.com/

I'll probably have my old broken one rebuilt, and drive the current one, until it's ready, and I'm ready to swap.

below is what I responded before.

Rob

I thought my Tranny was gone 50k ago, and got the vacuum adjusted, and later was having problems, and had the valve springs replaced (shift kit) and that made it pretty nice until recently, well a year or so. Now mine's sometimes flaring at 2-3, as well as flipping back and forth from 2 to 3 at times, like heading up the hill on Saturday. That got me worried.

YEARS ~ earlier this year I added some " Trans-X " snake oil on the advice of a DieselHead I more or less trust , it not only stopped the leaking but firmed up the shifts too .

Amsoil tranny helped too.

Not long ago there was a cherry '85 300D in a Long Beach LKQ yard , the ATF smelled fresh , the whole car was stripped clean in a few days , I don't remember if they knew to take the tranny , as you said it's a one year only deal , a very good setup indeed .

Took a look, not on their list anymore. crushed...

Is it the same as the SD in '85 ? . I see those occasionally .

Yes, besides the rear. one mech speedo, one elect.
722.416 CA '85

I want to keep the beast, so I'll most likely just get the rebuild, and drive it for another decade.

Thanks
Rob

On 8/19/16 10:34 AM, vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:

8.19

Hi Ron ;

All I see is " Hi Nate, " but no comment....

Do you have a good tranny guy there ? one who's going to change the drum seals ? .

My local guy Victor developed the kit now sold by a large company , one who never said 'thanx' .

He uses their products so they must be good .

Will you do a drive in / drive out deal or yank it and deliver it for Bench Overhaul ? .

I'm *so* pleased with the overhauled tranny Victor did in my '84 Sports Coupe , it's never dripped a single drop and doesn't use any fluid whatsoever .

-Nate
Rob wrote :

Hi Nate,

On 8/15/16 5:40 PM, vwnate1@... [diesel_mercedes] wrote:

Hi Rob ;

I'm spending to - day with my sweetie .

My '82 240D's tranny used to flare like mad , one day it decided no more 4th gear so I had to drive it quite some distance in third gear (40 MPH) to Victor whom I told to go ahead and rebuild it completely because it flared and leaked too , instead he adjusted something and it's been fine ever since .

I thought my Tranny was gone 50k ago, and got the vacuum adjusted, and later was having problems, and had the valve springs replaced (shift kit) and that made it pretty nice until recently, well a year or so. Now mine's sometimes flaring at 2-3, as well as flipping back and forth from 2 to 3 at times, like heading up the hill on Saturday. That got me worried.

YEARS ~ earlier this year I added some " Trans-X " snake oil on the advice of a DieselHead I more or less trust , it not only stopped the leaking but firmed up the shifts too .

Amsoil tranny helped too.

Not long ago there was a cherry '85 300D in a Long Beach LKQ yard , the ATF smelled fresh , the whole car was stripped clean in a few days , I don't remember if they knew to take the tranny , as you said it's a one year only deal , a very good setup indeed .

Took a look, not on their list anymore. crushed...

Is it the same as the SD in '85 ? . I see those occasionally .

Yes, besides the rear. one mech speedo, one elect.
722.416 CA '85

I want to keep the beast, so I'll most likely just get the rebuild, and drive it for another decade.

Thanks
Rob
=

-Nate
Rob wrote :

I thought I might run into Nate last Saturday, as I drove through Malibu, and up in the hills. On the hills, my tranny didn't seem too happy, so I might check on a rebuild, from my guy in Orange, CA. This used tranny I put in 60k ago, has been adjusted and has new shift kit, which gave me a few more years/ 30k miles. The old tranny, which is still in the garage, lost 3rd and 4th; hopefully it's repairable, so I don't lose this daily driver with AC, or I'll wait until it cools off. Mostly, seems fine on the flat, so fine to drive locally. My '85 CA has a different Tranny than the rest.

I did see a couple gold 300ds, yet no Nate.

Rob

=

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Posted by: Aleph93 <aleph93@ca.rr.com>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 126 steering wheel shipping

THANK YOU ! .

Because of the different manner of attachment , I'm betting it won't work on a W123 chassis , a sad thing .

-Nate
Bogy wrote :

Nate: It looks like it will be about 26 bucks by FedEx to Cal. from here.

I won't ship USPS.

Didn't check UPS.

Prolly not worth it. Shame too. It's a nice steering wheel.

Bogy

"Hardware eventually fails. Software eventually works" - Michael Hartung

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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Loping Engine & OFV Service

First things first , ALWAYS because failure to do so means you'll wind up chasing your tail .

Go get some of that special DIESEL rated fuel hose and replace ALL of the hoses , I find a pair of duck bill pliers and a dykes do the job well .

Then drive it a bit to bleed out the air and see if it runs better .

Remember : the fuel injectors MUST BE POP TESTED AND RECTIFIED BEFORE ADJUSTING ANYTHING ELSE ! .

The overflow pressure valve is on the inside of the injection pump and has a hard plastic translucent pipe leading from it's banjo bolt , up to the fuel filter plate .

Tuck a CLEAN light colred rag underneath it , pinch off the rubber fuel hose at the clear plastic intake screen then use a 17 MM open end wrench to loosen it , there's w black plastic wire connection you'll have to twist and pop off first else you'll prolly break it .

Once you have the valve/banjo bolt in your hand , wipe the threaded nose of it clean and try to blow though it ~ if you can , the valve is dirty or kaput , hold the bolt in a 17MM box end wrench and use a 14Mm box end wrench to loosen the top , lay it over a clean light colored rag and take it apart ~ not much in there , a spring , ball bearing and copper sealing washer .

Use Q-Tips and gasoline , alcohol whatever to swab the inside clean and rinse it well , take the time to clean ALL the parts .

If the Q-Tip even gets fine silt on it , you've found a serious problem .

Flip the tiny , delicate coil spring over 180° so the ball bearing goes in the narrower end as the slightly wide end is caused by wear over the millions of cycles .

Re assemble and tighten , don't forget the copper sealing washer , don't gorilla tighten it , just a firm squeeze , this is when the box end wrenches come into play .

When you go to re install it , swab out the banjo fitting n the end of the plastic pipe , finding any dirt / silt in there means you need serious fuel system cleaning and replace the secondary , spin on filer straightaway .

The banjo fitting has two aluminum crush washers , one on each side , the inner one typically falls down and vanishes , why you remembered (I hope) to tuck a clean , light colored rag underneath before beginning .

Support the banjo fitting as you snug up the bolt so it doesn't twist .

Remember to clean the engine of the spilled Diesel fuel when you're finished so it doesn't dribble down and ruin the motor mounts , ball joint dust boots and so on .

This simple thing adds quite a bit of power and amazing smoothness to the engine of any Mercedes Diesel .

Keep us posted , as always , work carefully and diligently , following the proper order and never skipping steps .

-Nate
Carl wrote :

Sometimes it's small details.... Where is the "fuel galley return hose outlet check valve"? I'm seeing bad leaking on the injector return hoses. The injectors aren't supplying the quantity of fuel, it is coming from the fuel filter. Is there supposed to be a check valve to avoid the flow from the filter banjo bolt to injector overflow hose?

Thanks for the info.

Carl

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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Loping Engine

Wow , that's great Bogy ! .

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet , say ' what the hell it's bad anyway ' and GO for it .

I am well pleased this worked out for you .

I'll consider giving it a try , my I.P. I am sure is worn out and worthless but I'm concerned with damaging the engine by fooling with it .

Maybe not , let me think on this because if it works on my Coupe , I will have once again learned a new thing by listening to others =8-) .

-Nate
Bogy wrote :

Nate (and everyoone) but especially nate;

A few days ago you talked about finding the weak cylinder in a loping engine. I have lost the email, but I believe you tried the one-at-a-time cylinder method where you "crack the nuts" one at a time and look for a lack of change in the engine. I believe you said that it revealed nothing and I have been mulling that for a few days as I have the same thing in my TD. Every cylinder was contributing to the operation of the engine at idle and cracking the nuts one at a time actually proved that. The engine was obviously benefiting from each cylinder and every nut I cracked slowed the engine down. So here is what I came up with FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH . . .

The problem isn't a non contributing cylinder. It is one or more under-contributing cylinder(s). Probably close to each other in the injecting order. ( yeah, right, like any two cylinders could be more than two apart in the injecting order. (slaps forehead) well duhhh.) it's an issue of ballance, in other words.

Anyway, having gained a wealth of understanding dealing with my jeep engine, today I went after the fuel system on my 300TD.

I replaced every outlet check valve,

I tested every injector - 4 "popped" at about 1700 - 1800 and one was less than 1500

I replaced the weak injector with another one that popped at 1700 - 1800.

I used one of my test adapters to check each outlet under pressure for a spray pattern at cranking speed.

(this is not a rigorous test but can reveal obviously low or high flows through the injector.)

I cleaned the heat shields and seats under them on each injector hole.

I cleaned the check valves in the lift pump

I cleaned and unstuck the fuel galley return hose outlet check valve

Then I put it all together and bled it out and got only a barel noticeable difference.

Then I did the unthinkable in an attempt to balance the contribution of each cylinder - I loosened the 13mm nuts on the outlet pipes (but just barely since those shims are part of the tune of the system) and one by one I twisted the outlet with a 15mm wrench. Stress 15mm! (At this point let me just say that I haven't learned what I know by listening to those who tell me not to ever do something.) On each outlet one of two things happened - 1) either the engine changed speeds a bit or 2)the loping diminished. If the speeds changed I let the springiness of the delivery pipe return it to it's original position then helped it with the wrench find it's old position. But . . . if the loping or chugging or (insert you favorite word for imbalance here) diminished I worked it until it was as smooth as possible with that outlet pipe. In my case #2 and #5 IIRC noticeably affected the smoothness of the engine. When I got it as smooth as possible on any adjustment I tightened down one of the 13mm nuts. I kept repeating this with all cylinders that would improve the smoothness. Those that only changed engine speeds I left alone. When I got it as smooth as I could I locked down all the 13mm nuts and then cracked and tightened each 17mm nut to relieve the spring stress from twisting the delivery lines.

The result - there is still an audibly noticeable imbalance. But the engine is not shaking anywhere near as much as it did 20 minutes before the procedure. In fact it is remarkably stable. It has a very regular clatter even with the slightly audible imbalance. Perhaps a new rack damper is in order.

Anyway, this "worked for me". So I thought I would pass it along. Hope it helps.

Bogy

"Hardware eventually fails. Software eventually works" - Michael Hartung

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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Tranny Overhaul

8.19

Hi Ron ;

All I see is " Hi Nate, " but no comment....

Do you have a good tranny guy there ? one who's going to change the drum seals ? .

My local guy Victor developed the kit now sold by a large company , one who never said 'thanx' .

He uses their products so they must be good .

Will you do a drive in / drive out deal or yank it and deliver it for Bench Overhaul ? .

I'm *so* pleased with the overhauled tranny Victor did in my '84 Sports Coupe , it's never dripped a single drop and doesn't use any fluid whatsoever .

-Nate
Rob wrote :

Hi Nate,

On 8/15/16 5:40 PM, vwnate1@... [diesel_mercedes] wrote:

Hi Rob ;

I'm spending to - day with my sweetie .

My '82 240D's tranny used to flare like mad , one day it decided no more 4th gear so I had to drive it quite some distance in third gear (40 MPH) to Victor whom I told to go ahead and rebuild it completely because it flared and leaked too , instead he adjusted something and it's been fine ever since .
I thought my Tranny was gone 50k ago, and got the vacuum adjusted, and later was having problems, and had the valve springs replaced (shift kit) and that made it pretty nice until recently, well a year or so. Now mine's sometimes flaring at 2-3, as well as flipping back and forth from 2 to 3 at times, like heading up the hill on Saturday. That got me worried.

YEARS ~ earlier this year I added some " Trans-X " snake oil on the advice of a DieselHead I more or less trust , it not only stopped the leaking but firmed up the shifts too .

Amsoil tranny helped too.

Not long ago there was a cherry '85 300D in a Long Beach LKQ yard , the ATF smelled fresh , the whole car was stripped clean in a few days , I don't remember if they knew to take the tranny , as you said it's a one year only deal , a very good setup indeed .

Took a look, not on their list anymore. crushed...

Is it the same as the SD in '85 ? . I see those occasionally .

Yes, besides the rear. one mech speedo, one elect.
722.416 CA '85

I want to keep the beast, so I'll most likely just get the rebuild, and drive it for another decade.

Thanks
Rob
=

-Nate
Rob wrote :

I thought I might run into Nate last Saturday, as I drove through Malibu, and up in the hills. On the hills, my tranny didn't seem too happy, so I might check on a rebuild, from my guy in Orange, CA. This used tranny I put in 60k ago, has been adjusted and has new shift kit, which gave me a few more years/ 30k miles. The old tranny, which is still in the garage, lost 3rd and 4th; hopefully it's repairable, so I don't lose this daily driver with AC, or I'll wait until it cools off. Mostly, seems fine on the flat, so fine to drive locally. My '85 CA has a different Tranny than the rest.
I did see a couple gold 300ds, yet no Nate.
Rob
=

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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 126 steering wheel shipping

Hey Nate, thanks for the tip on the washer nozzles. I had no idea they could be moved like that. I thought I must of screwed up where they pop into the hood. Anyway they hit the windshield now. Max

On Thu, Aug 18, 2016 at 12:10 AM, Bogy Wan Kenobi polespearbogy@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Nate: It looks like it will be about 26 bucks by FedEx to Cal. from here.

I won't ship USPS.

Didn't check UPS.

Prolly not worth it. Shame too. It's a nice steering wheel.

Bogy

"Hardware eventually fails. Software eventually works" - Michael Hartung