O.K. Bud ;
If you tuen the key on then ground the skinny wire leading to the ALTERNATOR , THE CHARGE LAMP SHOULD & MUST COME ON , IF NOT , i'D FIRST CHECK THE DASH BULB AND HOLDER , THEN THE mpc.....
Oops , damn caps lock again .
-Nate
Bud Wrote :
No, the light has never come on since I've had it. There's always been something wrong with the charging system and I found out there was a late model VR without the "L" leg installed. Got a Bosch with the "L" leg and it's been charging the battery since I put it in.
Bud
Bud Wrote :
Make sure you check your alternator belt.
That drove me insane a few years ago. My 300D didn't squeal when the belt slipped. It just slowly lost battery charging power. New alternator, checking for slow leakes etc. I changed the belt and everything is great.
Carl
Bud
On Monday, January 6, 2014 5:17 PM, "vwnate1@..." <vwnate1@...> wrote:
No ;
This is wrong/bad .
Does the low charge light ever come on ? .
-Nate
Bud Wrote :
Just an update, since I've put the new regulator in, it's been charging like a champ. The only oddball thing is that the battery warning light on the dash does not come on when I put the key to the glow position. Does that sound right?
Thanks,
Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/
Thanks,
Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/
On Friday, December 27, 2013 12:38 PM, Bud S <budski252@...> wrote:
Thanks Bogy and Carl, I got a wild hair when I woke up this morning and ran the voltage regulator number Vemo V10-77-0001 that was in the car and the replacement and I called my parts house and it seems this regulator is for newer 300sd's.
Dug some more and found http://www.regitar.com/FlyerPDF/cs.pdf which gives info on regulators. The vemo cross references to a Bosch 1197311027 which doesn't have an "L" leg for the light on the instrument panel.
No light when I turn the key to on, my understanding is the light has to excite the alternator then the light drops out. I also get a faint glow from the brake light and I replaced the pads and sensors.
I have on order a 1197311004 that has the "L" leg, so I guess I'll see what happens when I replace it.
Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/
On Thursday, December 26, 2013 11:35 PM, Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@...> wrote:
Bud:
When you plugged the relay back in it behaved as if it was just turned on by the ignition key and began to heat the plugs. Had you given it a few seconds it would have, or at least should have, kicked off and the voltage would have risen back to the idling voltage. If it was me I would chase the alternator because I think your new regulator has failed.
I believe you can disconnect the alternator at the junction block on the right inner fender well. There should be two 'heavy' red cloth covered wires. Some models have them go from the alternator to the starter and then up to the junction block and some go right to the junction block from the alternator. Disconnect them and then attach them to a load like a headlight. Then measure the voltage. If it is still 12.?? volts then the regulator has failed. If it is up to 14.? volts then you have a heavy load or wiring problem.
Just to put it in perspective, one of those heavy wires goes right to the glow plug relay as supply power for the plugs. The other heavy wire goes to the light switch and from there supplies the entire rest of the car. In other words - the glow plugs pull as much as, or more than, the current used by the whole rest of the car.
COLD glow plugs pull upwards of 75 amps for the pencil type. That quickly drops as the plugs warm up. But that initial load can drop the battery voltage a volt or two. If you disconnect the glow plugs and the voltage rises up to 14.5 volts then you have a GP relay issue. But you have to disconnect the plug with the heavy wires at the glow plug relay. It's the bigger of the two plugs.
Alternatively, you could place a 60 or 80 amp meter between the two heavy red wires and the junction block. Give it 15 minutes to allow for battery charging. A "lot" of current (40 to 80 Amps) flowing during those 15 minutes is the alternator charging the battery. If you only get a few amps or no amps during that 15 minutes then your alternator is bad. But if the current stays maxed out at 40 to 80 amps then you have a wiring problem. If it never goes up you have an alternator/regulator problem.
But your description of the problem sounds more like a failed regulator/alternator to me.
You could pull the alternator and have it tested. But Autozone and checker can't do it. You will have to take it to an auto electric guy or maybe NAPA or such.
When you plugged the relay back in it behaved as if it was just turned on by the ignition key and began to heat the plugs. Had you given it a few seconds it would have, or at least should have, kicked off and the voltage would have risen back to the idling voltage. If it was me I would chase the alternator because I think your new regulator has failed.
I believe you can disconnect the alternator at the junction block on the right inner fender well. There should be two 'heavy' red cloth covered wires. Some models have them go from the alternator to the starter and then up to the junction block and some go right to the junction block from the alternator. Disconnect them and then attach them to a load like a headlight. Then measure the voltage. If it is still 12.?? volts then the regulator has failed. If it is up to 14.? volts then you have a heavy load or wiring problem.
Just to put it in perspective, one of those heavy wires goes right to the glow plug relay as supply power for the plugs. The other heavy wire goes to the light switch and from there supplies the entire rest of the car. In other words - the glow plugs pull as much as, or more than, the current used by the whole rest of the car.
COLD glow plugs pull upwards of 75 amps for the pencil type. That quickly drops as the plugs warm up. But that initial load can drop the battery voltage a volt or two. If you disconnect the glow plugs and the voltage rises up to 14.5 volts then you have a GP relay issue. But you have to disconnect the plug with the heavy wires at the glow plug relay. It's the bigger of the two plugs.
Alternatively, you could place a 60 or 80 amp meter between the two heavy red wires and the junction block. Give it 15 minutes to allow for battery charging. A "lot" of current (40 to 80 Amps) flowing during those 15 minutes is the alternator charging the battery. If you only get a few amps or no amps during that 15 minutes then your alternator is bad. But if the current stays maxed out at 40 to 80 amps then you have a wiring problem. If it never goes up you have an alternator/regulator problem.
But your description of the problem sounds more like a failed regulator/alternator to me.
You could pull the alternator and have it tested. But Autozone and checker can't do it. You will have to take it to an auto electric guy or maybe NAPA or such.
This is just my two cents.
But FWIW, I am an electrical engineer.
Bogy.
On Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:43 PM, diyernh <diyernh@...> wrote:
Make sure you check your alternator belt.
That drove me insane a few years ago. My 300D didn't squeal when the belt slipped. It just slowly lost battery charging power. New alternator, checking for slow leakes etc. I changed the belt and everything is great.
Carl
On 12/26/2013 4:10 PM, Bud S wrote:I've been having charging issues. The PO said it was the voltage regulator, he had one on order when I bought the car, so he gave it to me when it came in. It's a Vemo(NAPA) VR. I installed it and sure enough I was getting if I remember correctly 14.5V or there abouts, previous to that the battery was at about 12.6.
Fast forward, I've been stranded a couple of times, got a jump from people, so I started bugging out wires. I just finished starting the car today, the voltage dropped from 12.75 to 12.4v, revved the engine, nothing different.
Pulled the glow plug relay wires (5 pin connector), no change, started pulling the fuses and have the list but essentially with everything out, voltage is 12.6, revving yields nothing more.
Now the fun part, put the fuses back in, back to 12.4V, then the 5 pin connector to the GP relay, drops it to 11.8V.
I think the GP relay must be sticking.
PO also told me he replaced the glow plugs. I'm wondering if the relay sticks and keeps them on, would it cause the voltage regulator to fail?
Also noticed that without the 5 pin connector installed the temp gauge does not work. Install the connector and the gauge reads normal.
Before I install an aftermarket relay with a push button switch to bypass the MB relay, I wanted to run my findings by the list.
Thanks,Bud
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