[diesel_mercedes] Re: 506 Miles On ONE TANK ! '82 240D Slushbox

 

Yeah ;

The newer ones get stunning fuel economy .

Like my oldies just fine though .

This one is the base model four cylinder 2.4 liter, it came with an 18 gallon feul tank so I sourced and installed a 21 gallon factory tank a few years ago....

I really miss those 27 MPG in town economies though .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be


On Friday, January 31, 2020, 8:27:05 PM PST, Michael Rubin <mrubincom@aol.com> wrote:


Had a '95 300D and regularly got 30+ mpg, usually 33. Drove my wife nuts because of the miles I'd put on a tank and she was always sure we'd run out momentarily. 

On Jan 31, 2020, at 7:55 PM, Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:


I've been waiting to see how far I could go on one tank full after adjusting the tranny's vacuum control, the low fuel lam came on at 389 miles and it began to sputter @ 506 miles so I coasted off the freeway and replaced the clear plastic intake screen (it'd been very clean until the bottom of the tank) , dumped in a gallon of fresh Diesel fuel I was carrying and made it to a filling station , 510 miles total .

Sadly still only 25 MPG ~ I'm gojng to try adjusting the tranny to up shift sooner and hope that'll get my fuel economy back to where it used to be, 27/32 .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be

 
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[diesel_mercedes] 506 Miles On ONE TANK ! '82 240D Slushbox

 

I've been waiting to see how far I could go on one tank full after adjusting the tranny's vacuum control, the low fuel lam came on at 389 miles and it began to sputter @ 506 miles so I coasted off the freeway and replaced the clear plastic intake screen (it'd been very clean until the bottom of the tank) , dumped in a gallon of fresh Diesel fuel I was carrying and made it to a filling station , 510 miles total .

Sadly still only 25 MPG ~ I'm gojng to try adjusting the tranny to up shift sooner and hope that'll get my fuel economy back to where it used to be, 27/32 .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be

 

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[diesel_mercedes] Busy Day For An Old Man

 

So, after driving to Pelican Parts for a will call order I set to work on my 240D, removed the passenger side front carpet(s) and undid the yellow/green pipes, tested with my MityVactool and discovered a leak in the rear circuit ~

Ah, HA ! .

I removed the rear passenger side carpets and pipe cover to discover there's no joints there, unloaded the trunk (whew) and tested the fuel filler door actuator, it's fine so I tested the trunk lock actuator ~ ! BINGO ! .

OI remember replacing it long ago when first I bought this car, it's dated 1984 .

I plugged off the two pipes and re installed the dead actuator so as to not loose the hardware and so on, then I Vacuumed the trunk mat, then three of the foot well carpets and Lloyd drop in mats , and replaced the getting crispy main vacuum pipe from pump to brake booster ~ if you look at the large in line vale it's white or gray and if the light colored part of it is chalky or looks like alligator skin (mine did) it's getting ready to break without warning and give you a REALLY bad day .

I cleaned up and replaced the disintegrating throttle linkage isolator in my '84 300CD, by the the sun was going down to I put up my tools, and came to $tarbuck$ to order up two trunk actuators, I might as well fix the one in my Coupe too, right ? .

Dang it ~ I really wanted to wash both cars too and maybe begin waxing one, I still need to jack up and block the 240D and eyeball the rear tranny mount.....

Too soon old, too late something or another else....

Back to Court to - morrow morning .


I also ordered some spray adhesive for the two new under hood pads, this is the stuff Mercedes recommends and uses : Wurth Hi-Temp Spray Adhesive WRTH 0980910056 WRTH.0980910056 WRTH0980910056 | Pelican Parts

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[diesel_mercedes] Central Locking Leaks

 


Yes, just so Mark ;

You're away from the terrible smog were have that attacks plastics and rubbers, still and all I'm not recalling ever finding one cracked & leaky plastic vacuum pipe in any of the five old M-B's I've owned....

I have discovered a few in junkyards that the pipes were crispy and broke in my hands .

I hope you're not too badly snow bound now .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be

  Mark wrote :

  Central Locking Leaks

 

 


I was thinking that all of these vacuum lines would mean loads of breaks at the hinges of the doors. I am amazed at how supple the hoses I am finding are, even under the hood. We'll find out in the spring. My old girl is under a few inches of snow right now. By next year, I will have a garage spot for it. Started it last week, no problem.


--   Mark

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Central Locking Leaks

 

On 1/26/2020 9:01 PM, Nate vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:
 

Thanx Mark ! .

Please keep us posted as to what you find .

This is the very first old Mercedes I bought twenty years ago and I've replaced most of the vacuum chambers at this point, I no longer remember if I've even done the right rear door but I *think* so....

The entire point of the initial under hood vacuum check is to avoid disturbing that dang vacuum resivoir ~ my first two Coupes had leaky resivoirs that drive me crazy trying to cork up .


I was thinking that all of these vacuum lines would mean loads of breaks at the hinges of the doors. I am amazed at how supple the hoses I am finding are, even under the hood. We'll find out in the spring. My old girl is under a few inches of snow right now. By next year, I will have a garage spot for it. Started it last week, no problem.


--   Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.  Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully  http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Central Locking Leaks

 


Thanx Mark ! .

Please keep us posted as to what you find .

This is the very first old Mercedes I bought twenty years ago and I've replaced most of the vacuum chambers at this point, I no longer remember if I've even done the right rear door but I *think* so....

The entire point of the initial under hood vacuum check is to avoid disturbing that dang vacuum resivoir ~ my first two Coupes had leaky resivoirs that drive me crazy trying to cork up .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be
 -
From: Mark wrote :

 
Subject:  Central Locking Leak Diagnosis

 

I did suspect the reservoir, but figured out that if I check in the driver's door, at the supply to the control valve, I could determine presence of vacuum, which I did have. For insurance, I removed the reservoir and sealed the somewhat hardened plug where the hose goes in. but both of the other hoses hold no vacuum whatsoever. The next move is the carpet trick.

--   Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.  Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully  http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com

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[diesel_mercedes] MORE Fuel Economy Checks

 


Whew, I must really be driving a lot .

'82 240D automatic, Biobor & some AC use, mixed freeway and city driving :

1 tank 400 miles @ 25 MPG, another 342 miles @ 24 MPG . I remember when this car consitently gave me 27 MPG in ton and went right to 30 ~ 32 MP fully loaded driving across the Mojave Desert..... I've adjusted the vacuum valve on the I.P. nd it now shifts earlier, , this keeps the RPM's down and I hope will give me increased fuel economy .

'84 300CD automatic. Biobor and no AC, 240 miles, 18 MPG (! WTH ?) .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Central Locking Leak Diagnosis

 

On 1/26/2020 10:02 AM, Nate vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:
 
Thanx Fellas ! .

As always, well considered replies .

Mark ;

He's in the passenger side foot well, after sliding the seat all the way back and removing the carpets you'll see a black plastic longitudinal cover you can gently lift up the inner side of to expose the various vacuum pipes and 'Y' connectors .

IMO, one should begin under the hood at the junction of the anti back flow (yellow & white) valve and two yellow plastic pipes, taking the driver's door apart is additional work not normally necessary .

The primary test is to see if the leak is in the locking system or the entirely separate vacuum resivoir in the trunk ~ one of the yellow plastic pipes leads from the firewall to the trunk and sometimes, there's a leak where this pipe enters the black plastic vacuum resivoir under the package tray .

The next stop is to test the other pipe in both locked and unlocked positions, this will tell you if the door's master valve is leaking, if so both positions will leak down, if one  position holds vacuum and t'other doesn't you're likely looking at a bad vacuum chamber, the next step is to remove the passenger side carpet and address the various 'Y' connectors ~ expect them to have a serious hold on the plastic pipes but pay close attention to them after you've twisted and released them ~ if the pipes now slide in and out of the rubber 'Y' connector, it's BAD and is leaking no matter how slowly .

These slow leaks are why it's important to have a good quality vacuum pump ~ the new one I got yesterday doesn't hold vacuum over about 5", this isn't good .I've purchased two of the metal Harbor Fright vacuum pumps, neither ever held any vacuum whatso ever mking them useless for leak detecting .

I'm still rather sore from yesterday's efforts so I think I'll beg off to - day's planned works .

IIRC there are also 'Y' connectors under the passenger side rear carpet .

The trick is to not waste too much time on duplicate labor .


I did suspect the reservoir, but figured out that if I check in the driver's door, at the supply to the control valve, I could determine presence of vacuum, which I did have. For insurance, I removed the reservoir and sealed the somewhat hardened plug where the hose goes in. but both of the other hoses hold no vacuum whatsoever. The next move is the carpet trick.

--   Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.  Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully  http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Central Locking Leak Diagnosis

 

Thanx Fellas ! .

As always, well considered replies .

Mark ;

He's in the passenger side foot well, after sliding the seat all the way back and removing the carpets you'll see a black plastic longitudinal cover you can gently lift up the inner side of to expose the various vacuum pipes and 'Y' connectors .

IMO, one should begin under the hood at the junction of the anti back flow (yellow & white) valve and two yellow plastic pipes, taking the driver's door apart is additional work not normally necessary .

The primary test is to see if the leak is in the locking system or the entirely separate vacuum resivoir in the trunk ~ one of the yellow plastic pipes leads from the firewall to the trunk and sometimes, there's a leak where this pipe enters the black plastic vacuum resivoir under the package tray .

The next stop is to test the other pipe in both locked and unlocked positions, this will tell you if the door's master valve is leaking, if so both positions will leak down, if one  position holds vacuum and t'other doesn't you're likely looking at a bad vacuum chamber, the next step is to remove the passenger side carpet and address the various 'Y' connectors ~ expect them to have a serious hold on the plastic pipes but pay close attention to them after you've twisted and released them ~ if the pipes now slide in and out of the rubber 'Y' connector, it's BAD and is leaking no matter how slowly .

These slow leaks are why it's important to have a good quality vacuum pump ~ the new one I got yesterday doesn't hold vacuum over about 5", this isn't good .I've purchased two of the metal Harbor Fright vacuum pumps, neither ever held any vacuum whatso ever mking them useless for leak detecting .

I'm still rather sore from yesterday's efforts so I think I'll beg off to - day's planned works .

IIRC there are also 'Y' connectors under the passenger side rear carpet .

The trick is to not waste too much time on duplicate labor .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be


From: Mark

 
 
 

I looked at some of the videos. This one seems to have the best direct advice on where to go next. I see that he has access to the lines, but what do you need to take apart to get to where he is at?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=si6xMsBM8Do

--   Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.  Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully  http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 240D Vibration

 

To get those vacuum lines just pull the front carpet, driver's side.

I'd use the a vacuum tester not my mouth.

It's usually obvious what's not working properly. If not the interior locks, there's also the fuel door lock and the trunk.

Rob

==

On 1/26/20 6:27 AM, Mark Bardenwerper citrogsa@charter.net [diesel_mercedes] wrote:
On 1/26/2020 4:58 AM, corvallis@peoplepc.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:
 

I did a google search of Youtube using the key words in your question; Bill in Oregon

https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ACYBGNRSUYuH9xsnmc_KTuhOWhK1Yb7cBw%3A1580036100432&source=hp&ei=BHAtXuvNF4_r-wSBu5LYCQ&q=uoutube+mercedes+240d+driver%27s+door+vacuum+lines+replacement&oq=uoutube+Mercedes+240D+driver%27s+door+vacuum+lines+replacing&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.33i160j33i299l2.2361.9485..18628...1.0..0.129.794.8j1......0....1j2..gws-wiz.......0j0i131j35i305i39j0i10.AHMeBQa-keY

  . . .

A good way to start isolating vacuum problems is to go into the driver's door and pull the three lines off of the controller. One should have vacuum when the engine is running and the other two should each hold vacuum One's open and the other is close. I have vacuum, which means my reservoir and supply are good, but neither of my other lines holds vacuum. Now it's time to go into it further. does anyone have a link to the video on how to pursue this?


I looked at some of the videos. This one seems to have the best direct advice on where to go next. I see that he has access to the lines, but what do you need to take apart to get to where he is at?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=si6xMsBM8Do

--   Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.  Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully  http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 240D Vibration

 

On 1/26/2020 4:58 AM, corvallis@peoplepc.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:
 

I did a google search of Youtube using the key words in your question; Bill in Oregon

https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ACYBGNRSUYuH9xsnmc_KTuhOWhK1Yb7cBw%3A1580036100432&source=hp&ei=BHAtXuvNF4_r-wSBu5LYCQ&q=uoutube+mercedes+240d+driver%27s+door+vacuum+lines+replacement&oq=uoutube+Mercedes+240D+driver%27s+door+vacuum+lines+replacing&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.33i160j33i299l2.2361.9485..18628...1.0..0.129.794.8j1......0....1j2..gws-wiz.......0j0i131j35i305i39j0i10.AHMeBQa-keY

  . . .

A good way to start isolating vacuum problems is to go into the driver's door and pull the three lines off of the controller. One should have vacuum when the engine is running and the other two should each hold vacuum One's open and the other is close. I have vacuum, which means my reservoir and supply are good, but neither of my other lines holds vacuum. Now it's time to go into it further. does anyone have a link to the video on how to pursue this?


I looked at some of the videos. This one seems to have the best direct advice on where to go next. I see that he has access to the lines, but what do you need to take apart to get to where he is at?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=si6xMsBM8Do

--   Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.  Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully  http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com

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