[diesel_mercedes] Re: BEFORE you pitch your glow plug relay w126 w123

 

This is why it is important to have a wife, girl friend, or daughters available. Emery boards are impossible to find in a bachelor pad.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, <ajrn@...> wrote:
>
> Hey..
>
> My glow plugs weren't working on my 84 300SD... Plugs good, wires good.. Fuse good.. Crap... The relay..
>
>
> I removed it this morning-- planning to steal one from my other SD..
>
> I made a "jumper" for the glow plugs-- showed my 17 year old daughter how to "make 'er glow..." I'm going to have to make a better version of THAT to have her keep in the glove compartment-- for "self rescue..."
>
> But then decided... Let's open this up, before we drive across town..
>
> The contact points on the solenoid were dirty... Cleaned them good with an emery board...
>
> FIXED..
>
> Tools needed. 10mm and 8mm sockets, A u-joint/short extension or some serious flexibility to get on the bolt holding the "invisible" bolt on the glow plug relay. And a small flat head screw driver to open the relay. (4 screws-- visible from the plug in side...)
>
> ....I can't see how you could do this, without removing it from the car. Sorry!
>
> I took pictures of inside the box-- I'll post them later. But it's a VERY easy fix..
>
> A late but Merry Christmas, to my Mercedes Diesel family!
>
> Anthony
>

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[diesel_mercedes] who makes oem mercedes accumulators

 

Thu Dec 26, 2013 2:51 pm (PST) . Posted by:

"tom hanson" halfviking

If the shocks don't leak, your problem is the nitrogen spheres and not the shocks. Don't get these from the aftermarket. Big waste of money and good uck getting a refund.

Tom Hanson
Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
MBUSA, LLC
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com
949 598-4842 direct
So, Tom
Who is the manufacturer of the OEM mercedes branded accumulators?

I've heard that it is Corteco .... i've seen FEBI boxes with corteco inside

thanls

xx rick hawkins

So, Tom


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[diesel_mercedes] BEFORE you pitch your glow plug relay w126 w123

 

Hey..

My glow plugs weren't working on my 84 300SD...   Plugs good, wires good..  Fuse good..    Crap...  The relay..


I removed it this morning-- planning to steal one from my other SD..

I made a "jumper" for the glow plugs-- showed my 17 year old daughter how to "make 'er glow..."  I'm going to have to make a better version of THAT to have her keep in the glove compartment-- for "self rescue..."

But then decided... Let's open this up, before we drive across town..

The contact points on the solenoid were dirty...  Cleaned them good with an emery board... 

FIXED..

Tools needed. 10mm and 8mm sockets, A u-joint/short extension or some serious flexibility to get on the bolt holding the "invisible" bolt on the glow plug relay.  And a small flat head screw driver to open the relay.  (4 screws-- visible from the plug in side...)

....I can't see how you could do this, without removing it from the car.    Sorry!

I took pictures of inside the box--  I'll post them later.  But it's a VERY easy fix..

A late but Merry Christmas, to my Mercedes Diesel family!

Anthony

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Glow Plug relay

 

Thanks Bogy and Carl, I got a wild hair when I woke up this morning and ran the voltage regulator number Vemo V10-77-0001 that was in the car and the replacement and I called my parts house and it seems this regulator is for newer 300sd's.

Dug some more and found http://www.regitar.com/FlyerPDF/cs.pdf which gives info on regulators.  The vemo cross references to a Bosch 1197311027 which doesn't have an "L" leg for the light on the instrument panel.

No light when I turn the key to on, my understanding is the light has to excite the alternator then the light drops out.  I also get a faint glow from the brake light and I replaced the pads and sensors.

I have on order a 1197311004 that has the "L" leg, so I guess I'll see what happens when I replace it. 

Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/


On Thursday, December 26, 2013 11:35 PM, Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
Bud:

When you plugged the relay back in it behaved as if it was just turned on by the ignition key and began to heat the plugs. Had you given it a few seconds it would have, or at least should have, kicked off and the voltage would have risen back to the idling voltage. If it was me I would chase the alternator because I think your new regulator has failed.

I believe you can disconnect the alternator at the junction block on the right inner fender well. There should be two 'heavy' red cloth covered wires. Some models have them go from the alternator to the starter and then up to the junction block and some go right to the junction block from the alternator. Disconnect them and then attach them to a load like a headlight. Then measure the voltage. If it is still 12.?? volts then the regulator has failed. If it is up to 14.? volts then you have a heavy load or wiring problem.

Just to put it in perspective, one of those heavy wires goes right to the glow plug relay as supply power for the plugs. The other heavy wire goes to the light switch and from there supplies the entire rest of the car. In other words - the glow plugs pull as much as, or more than, the current used by the whole rest of the car.

COLD glow plugs pull upwards of 75 amps for the pencil type. That quickly drops as the plugs warm up. But that initial load  can drop the battery voltage a volt or two. If you disconnect the glow plugs and the voltage rises up to 14.5 volts then you have a GP relay issue. But you have to disconnect the plug with the heavy wires at the glow plug relay. It's the bigger of the two plugs.

Alternatively, you could place a 60 or 80 amp meter between the two heavy red wires and the junction block. Give it 15 minutes to allow for battery charging. A "lot" of current (40 to 80 Amps) flowing during those 15 minutes is the alternator charging the battery. If you only get a few amps or no amps during that 15 minutes then your alternator is bad. But if the current stays maxed out at 40 to 80 amps then you have a wiring problem. If it never goes up you have an alternator/regulator problem.

But your description of the problem sounds more like a failed regulator/alternator to me.

You could pull the alternator and have it tested. But Autozone and checker can't do it. You will have to take it to an auto electric guy or maybe NAPA or such.

This is just my two cents.
But FWIW, I am an electrical engineer.
Bogy.




On Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:43 PM, diyernh <diyernh@comcast.net> wrote:


Make sure you check your alternator belt.

That drove me insane a few years ago.  My  300D didn't squeal when the belt slipped.  It just slowly lost battery charging power.   New alternator, checking for slow leakes etc.  I changed the belt and everything is great.

Carl


On 12/26/2013 4:10 PM, Bud S wrote:
 
I've been having charging issues.  The PO said it was the voltage regulator, he had one on order when I bought the car, so he gave it to me when it came in.  It's a Vemo(NAPA) VR.  I installed it and sure enough I was getting if I remember correctly 14.5V or there abouts, previous to that the battery was at about 12.6.

Fast forward, I've been stranded a couple of times, got a jump from people, so I started bugging out wires.  I just finished starting the car today, the voltage dropped from 12.75 to 12.4v, revved the engine, nothing different.

Pulled the glow plug relay wires (5 pin connector), no change, started pulling the fuses and have the list but essentially with everything out, voltage is 12.6, revving yields nothing more.

Now the fun part, put the fuses back in, back to 12.4V, then the 5 pin connector to the GP relay, drops it to 11.8V.

I think the GP relay must be sticking.

PO also told me he replaced the glow plugs.  I'm wondering if the relay sticks and keeps them on, would it cause the voltage regulator to fail?

Also noticed that without the 5 pin connector installed the temp gauge does not work.  Install the connector and the gauge reads normal.

Before I install an aftermarket relay with a push button switch to bypass the MB relay, I wanted to run my findings by the list.

Thanks,
Bud







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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 123 neutral safety switch

 

I had a problem with one of those once. I bought a new one but never got it to work, I just by-passed it. I am not worried in the least of starting in gear and plowing tru the front window of a mall or anything. Also when its cold I just shove a tire under the car and light it up for heat. Max


On Thu, Dec 26, 2013 at 2:44 PM, Andrew <okldboy@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi all

Good afternoon.  Earlier this week I replaced the shifter bushings (two) on my 82 300D, and after re-assembling everything, the car will not start in any gear.  Glow plug light etc comes on but then nothing happens except a single click when I turn the ignition to start.  Headlights do not dim.  I believe this is the neutral safety switch as the reverse lights no longer work.  I must have damaged or moved it somehow.  I can install a new switch, but does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the switch or further diagnose what happened?  Happy to just replace it but am afraid the problem will continue if something is out of adjustments.


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model HELP HELP HELP

 

There are several tests you can do from under the car.

1) Check for fluid in the tank under the hood. No fluid can lead to no leaks. Then check to see that the top of the rear fender wells are near or slightly above the top of the tire tops. This is just a check to see if it is actually lifting the car so that the car is not riding on the rubber bumpers.

2) Get the rear wheels up on ramps and slide under. Find the leveling valve and see if you can "manhandle" it a bit either up or down. (But I believe down is the direction you will want to move it.) If there is any fluid lifting the rams up then they should drop a little bit. If this happens then the rams are capable of traveling and are likely not stuck. 

3) Disconnect the link rod on the valve lever and lower the car ALL THE WAY DOWN so that there is no pressure in the lines/accumulators/rams. You will see two hoses at one end of the accumulators. IIRC the one with the banjo bolt needs to be removed so that  a suitably sized blunt rod can be inserted into that threaded hole that the banjo bolt came out of.

Here is a clue - if only an ounce or so of fluid drips out (of the accumulator) then the diaphragm inside is probably good. If an accumulator sized amount of fluid comes out, then the diaphragm is probably bad and is resting at the rear of the inside of the accumulator.

The rod must be of small enough diameter to fit the hole and long enough to not fall into the accumulator. gently insert the rod into the banjo bolt hole and see how far in it goes. If it only goes in an inch or so the accumulators are likely good. If it goes all the way into the accumulator and touches the other end of the inside, then the accumulators are shot. You are trying to feel the position of the diaphragm inside the accumulator. If it is intact then it will be close to the bolt opening with pressure behind it. If it is broken then it will have deflated and be against the far end of the inside of the accumulator body. 

The diaphragm has pressurized nitrogen behind it, and will move to allow the rams to travel short distances up and down. This is essential for a ride that is not rock hard. Too much movement and the valve will adjust the level. But for small or short lived movements of the rams, the accumulators take up the movement.

Hope this helps.

Bogy.





On Friday, December 27, 2013 11:01 AM, Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


COMPLETE MISUNDERSTANDING of the system.  OK my ride is rock hard.  Maybe I only need the accumulators.  I didn't realize the shocks are hooked to the accumulators.  Is there a way to check/method etc... to trouble shoot the system?  I just got the wrong shocks.  I saw the whole system and now I understand how it works.  I didn't realize the accumulators didn't hold up the rear end.  It is the shocks that do that.  Is it possible only one of the accumulators is bad or one shock bad and both accumulators or both shocks and both accumulators...It's mind boggling.  HELP...   I understand this.  If the shocks are dry with no leaking  it's the accumulators.  If so do I replace both or try to test each accumulator.   Lawrence Rhodes....




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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model HELP HELP HELP

 

I would not throw money at this problem until you know what is wrong; possibly get a diagnosis and fix quite from a Mercedes repair shop?

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1445368-rear-suspension-81-300td.html

Bill in Oregon

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2013 10:01 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model HELP HELP HELP

 

 

COMPLETE MISUNDERSTANDING of the system.  OK my ride is rock hard.  Maybe I only need the accumulators.  I didn't realize the shocks are hooked to the accumulators.  Is there a way to check/method etc... to trouble shoot the system?  I just got the wrong shocks.  I saw the whole system and now I understand how it works.  I didn't realize the accumulators didn't hold up the rear end.  It is the shocks that do that.  Is it possible only one of the accumulators is bad or one shock bad and both accumulators or both shocks and both accumulators...It's mind boggling.  HELP...   I understand this.  If the shocks are dry with no leaking  it's the accumulators.  If so do I replace both or try to test each accumulator.   Lawrence Rhodes....

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model HELP HELP HELP

 

COMPLETE MISUNDERSTANDING of the system.  OK my ride is rock hard.  Maybe I only need the accumulators.  I didn't realize the shocks are hooked to the accumulators.  Is there a way to check/method etc... to trouble shoot the system?  I just got the wrong shocks.  I saw the whole system and now I understand how it works.  I didn't realize the accumulators didn't hold up the rear end.  It is the shocks that do that.  Is it possible only one of the accumulators is bad or one shock bad and both accumulators or both shocks and both accumulators...It's mind boggling.  HELP...   I understand this.  If the shocks are dry with no leaking  it's the accumulators.  If so do I replace both or try to test each accumulator.   Lawrence Rhodes....

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