Re: [diesel_mercedes] W123 Hunting

begin:vcard
fn:Joe Hupp
n:Hupp;Joe
org:Fletcher International Exports;FSP
adr:;;Lot 11 Yarrandale Road;Dubbo;NSW;2830;Australia
email;internet:josephhupp@bigpond.com
title:Labourer
tel;work:02 68013100
tel;fax:02 68371173
tel;home:02 68845252
tel;cell:0439895121
url:http://www.fletchint.com.au
version:2.1
end:vcard

 

Them's the brakes, I suppose!

However, I have something more substantial than a W123 in mind at the
moment..... a ex-Australian Army Mercedes-Benz UL1700L Unimog. A big
Mercedes-Benz diesel (OM352A) instead of our beloved OM617's!

https://www.pickles.com.au/trucks/item/-/details/CP-11-86--Mercedes-Benz--UL1700L--4x4--Tray-Top/1090016532

If I get one, I have a few little options that I plan to fit to it!
Firstly, a aftermarket intercooler from a specialist Unimog repair
facility in the UK!

Joe

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 1977 W123 240D For Sale $5,000.00

 

On 3/2/2020 9:47 PM, Nate vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:
 

Pictures would be good mark .

Or perhaps a link to them .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be


Mark wrote :

 


I am considering selling my '77 240D.


I'll get her out tomorrow. It's been sleeping for the winter.


--   Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.  Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully  http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com



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[diesel_mercedes] 1977 W123 240D For Sale $5,000.00

 


Pictures would be good mark .

Or perhaps a link to them .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be


Mark wrote :

 


I am considering selling my '77 240D. It spent most of its life in
Missouri and Iowa. I brought it to Wisconsin about 5 years ago and have
done quite a bit of work to it. From the front to the back, it's had
replaced radiator auxiliary fan, water pump, fuel hand pump, glow plugs
(pencil type), adjusted valves with new VC gasket, starter motor, upper
and lower hoses, battery, tires, upper and lower ball joints, all tie
rod ends, shocks were new when I bought it, speedometer repaired, door
lock handles replaced, rebuild all locks, change trans grease (4 speed
manual), exhaust complete, brake pads and front calipers. The body is
pretty good, with an aging repaint and bubbling just starting on the
front dog legs and in the rear lower panel. chrome is present and good.
windshield could use replacement as PO ran bad wipers. I have some extra
parts, a set of Monark injectors I have not gotten around to installing.
Less than 200,000 miles, but not sure exact as the odo was not working
when I bought it.

Looking to get $5000.

In Wisconsin.

--
Mark

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[diesel_mercedes] Leaky 722.XXX Tranny Modulator O-Ring

 


O.K. Rob ;

You know I'm always trying to learn more.......

To - day I adjusted the I.P.'s vacuum control valve, turned the ball socket two complete 360 degree turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE, _lenghthenig_ it then snugged up the 8MM ATF jamb nut, now it shifts sooner, what I'd been hoping for .

I downloaded a nice D.I.Y. how to check and adjust the tranny's internal pressure correctly, I'm gathering up tools & bits to try it and will post to the group when I've done it .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be


Rob   wrote:

 

Nate,

No, I didn't get any decent pics this time. The spot in the tranny where the modulator goes is just out of sight, up in between the tranny and car body, so hard to get a good view, and bad lighting.

I drove the MB to work and back and still don't smell ATF, so I think I'm good. I'll check under the car next weekend, or thereabouts.

Rob

=


 

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Mercedes Auto Tranny Pressure Adjustment With Photos

 

Thanks Nate.

Now that I have a working Modulator, I can check these things and make adjustments.

Rob

=

On 3/2/20 7:26 AM, Nate vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:

 
Arrow W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY - measure it the 'right' way

Why do you need to do this?: You need to do this to properly check the internal hydraulic pressure of the transmission, either during a debug OR you must do this after installing a new modulator (my case).

This only applies to automatics. You manual tranny people have it too easy anyways...

Overview:
You are going to connect a psi gauge to a test port on your transmission's underside near your vacuum modulator. Then, turn the car on and make some adjustments, and then remove the gauge and you're done.

Theres a lot of talk about this on the forum - you NEED to set the pressure correctly. There's a right answer - it's not a rule of thumb or by feel measurement.

Time once you're ready to go: 60-90 minutes

Materials required:

- 12mm socket and socket wrench (I used 1/4" drive)
- 1 banjo bolt scrounged off of an ALDA on a yard car. I grabbed mine off of a later turbo model. The ALDA is the square unit on top of the injection pump on a turbo model. There is a banjo fitting leading into the ALDA from some clear tubing. Thats the one you want. Take the hollow bolt, two washers and banjo fitting
- a few feet of 3/16" ID vinyl tubing rated for 60 psi or more. I got mine at my local hardware store.
- a 0-100 psi gauge. I also got mine at a hardware store for $10. It had a 1/4" NPT fitting.
- 1/4 NPT to hose fitting adapter.
-some brake cleaner and paper towels for locating your transmission ID #
-teflon tape for NPT fitting
-ramps for front wheels. Jackstands can work too.
-chocks for rear wheels
-TDM printouts that are attached to the next post.

Gauge assembly:

-take your scrounged ALDA banjo bolt and hollow screw and clean it really thoroughly with brake cleaner. Clean it some more. Transmission fluid is going to go into this fitting, and then get sucked back into the transmission. You want this thing clean! Let it dry for a little while.
-attach your gauge to the hose fitting using some teflon tape.
- push the the ends of the vinyl hose onto the hose fittings on the gauge and the banjo bolt.
-make sure everything looks nice and tight. This stuff will be under 50-80 psi.
-wrap a plastic bag around the banjo bolt (keep it clean!) end of your gauge assembly and bring it to the car

The Main Event:
- make sure you have the right fluid level in your transmission.
- put front wheels on ramps. Jackstands can also work, but get them up high! Im a thin guy and I really appreciate the extra height the ramps give me.
-put e-brake on and chock the rear wheels. Safety first...
-turn car off and put in P.
-first you need to identify what exact model transmission you have. You can find the transmission ID on the passenger side of the tranny. It is located on a flat right above the front of the pan. You probably will ned a paper towel with a little brake cleaner to clean the area off. It may be obstructed a little bit by your exhaust pipe, but its there I promise. You are looking for a number that begins with 722.xxx
-before you get too dirty consult the TDM printout for your proper reading. I have a 722.315 and my number was 2.9 bar. Write down this number and concert it to psi. 1 bar = 14.5 psi.
- get under the car on the drivers side. You are looking for your vacuum modulator. Mine is green. Yours may be red or black. It's above the pan - you have to get right up under the transmission to see it.
- a little below and to the rear of the modulator is a 12mm bolt. This is your test port. Unscrew the bolt and put it to the side somewhere...you guessed it..Clean!.
-screw in your banjo bolt. Point the hose up and to the rear of the car. BE VERY CAREFUL to seat the bolt correctly. Check again. If you dont, fluid will spew everywhere when you do the test. Dont ask me how I know!!!!
-snug it down, but do not overtighten.
-look at figure 2 - this is how it looks, but you wont have red fluid in the line yet.
-check everything again, and crawl out from underneath the car.
-plug the vacuum line that dives down to the transmission from the engine compartment.
-start the car. Quickly look down and check for leaks. I bet all is well.
-look at figure 3. This is what you will see. Fluid will be running down the tube, but wont make it to the gauge. A pressure reading will be registering on the gauge - figure 1. This is normal - I thought it wasn't at first and got concerned.
-what you need to do next is make the adjustment. This is done on the modulator itself. There is a little black plastic cap that hides a t handle. To make the adjustment youll need to pull the cap off, pop the T handle out a little bit and screw IN to RAISE pressure, and screw OUT to LOWER pressure. Adjustment is a little bit at a time. I turned my t handle half a turn to lower is 2 bar. I did this with the car on above me - it was easy this way.
-NOTE: the TDM says to do this test at 50kmh while driving. BUT, every reptuable Benz mechanic I have talked to says the same reading can be obtained in park. Thats how they all do it. It sure is easier. I dont wat to think about trying to rig up a drivable version of this.
-the adjustment doesn't take long if you do it with the car running.
-once the correct reading is achieved, let the car idle for a bit and make sure the reading is nice and stable after the transmission is at operating temperature.
-turn the car off.
- take off the banjo bolt, reinstall the 12mm plug bolt. re install the modulator rubber cap. reconnect the vacuum line.
- remove chocks, take car off ramps. test drive the beast.

Enjoy!! You can now continue your transmission debug. Make adjustments by other means (VCV, orifices etc.), NOT by the modulator any more - your work here is done. Hopefully this is the end of your debug journey.

Good luck,
dieseldan44

Special thanks to forum member tomnik for walking me through this measurement and providing the TDM scans.

PS - Ill take and attach some more pictures soon.

PRESSURE CHART :
722.112 - 3.8 bar
722.117 - 3.0
722.118 - 3.0

1981 -
722.300 - 2.4
722.301 - 3.5
722.303 - 2.9
722.304 - 3.5

1982 -
722.300 - 2.8
722.303 - 2.9
722.309 - 2.8
722.310 - 3.7
722.312 - 3.7
722.315 - 2.9 __________________


Attached Thumbnails
W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY -                                  measure it the 'right'                                  way-modulator-007.jpg   W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY -                                  measure it the 'right'                                  way-modulator-009.jpg   W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY -                                  measure it the 'right'                                  way-modulator-010.jpg  

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Leaky Tranny Modulator O-Ring

 

Nate,

No, I didn't get any decent pics this time. The spot in the tranny where the modulator goes is just out of sight, up in between the tranny and car body, so hard to get a good view, and bad lighting.

I drove the MB to work and back and still don't smell ATF, so I think I'm good. I'll check under the car next weekend, or thereabouts.

Rob

=


On 3/1/20 7:07 PM, Nate vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:

Rob ;

Any chances of pictures ? . I learn better thata way .

TIA,

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be


----- Forwarded Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:50:55 PM PST
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: [dieselMercedes] ATF in the vacuum lines

 

Today I removed my new shift modulator, and the O-ring was stretched out of shape, not sure why. I replaced the O-Ring and re-installed the modulator. That sounds so easy, it's a bit of a pain to push in, under the car. The new style doesn't have a set grove for the O-ring, which might be the issue, so be careful installing. I bought a few O-rings just in case I screwed another one up.

I'll test drive and see how it went. Before, I could smell the ATF, and knew it was leaking.

I've gotten used to just driving my '90 toyota pickup truck around, while the MB has been having issues, hopefully my MB will become my daily driver again. The truck has more miles than my MB, 267k to 234k, so always happy when it passes smog.

Rob
'85 300D CA

=

 

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] W123 Hunting

 


I am considering selling my '77 240D. It spent most of its life in
Missouri and Iowa. I brought it to Wisconsin about 5 years ago and have
done quite a bit of work to it. From the front to the back, it's had
replaced radiator auxiliary fan, water pump, fuel hand pump, glow plugs
(pencil type), adjusted valves with new VC gasket, starter motor, upper
and lower hoses, battery, tires, upper and lower ball joints, all tie
rod ends, shocks were new when I bought it, speedometer repaired, door
lock handles replaced, rebuild all locks, change trans grease (4 speed
manual), exhaust complete, brake pads and front calipers. The body is
pretty good, with an aging repaint and bubbling just starting on the
front dog legs and in the rear lower panel. chrome is present and good.
windshield could use replacement as PO ran bad wipers. I have some extra
parts, a set of Monark injectors I have not gotten around to installing.
Less than 200,000 miles, but not sure exact as the odo was not working
when I bought it.

Looking to get $5000.

In Wisconsin.

--
Mark L. Bardenwerper, Sr.
Technology...responsibly, thoughtfully
http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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[diesel_mercedes] Mercedes Auto Tranny Pressure Adjustment With Photos

 


 
Arrow W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY - measure it the 'right' way

Why do you need to do this?: You need to do this to properly check the internal hydraulic pressure of the transmission, either during a debug OR you must do this after installing a new modulator (my case).

This only applies to automatics. You manual tranny people have it too easy anyways...

Overview:
You are going to connect a psi gauge to a test port on your transmission's underside near your vacuum modulator. Then, turn the car on and make some adjustments, and then remove the gauge and you're done.

Theres a lot of talk about this on the forum - you NEED to set the pressure correctly. There's a right answer - it's not a rule of thumb or by feel measurement.

Time once you're ready to go: 60-90 minutes

Materials required:

- 12mm socket and socket wrench (I used 1/4" drive)
- 1 banjo bolt scrounged off of an ALDA on a yard car. I grabbed mine off of a later turbo model. The ALDA is the square unit on top of the injection pump on a turbo model. There is a banjo fitting leading into the ALDA from some clear tubing. Thats the one you want. Take the hollow bolt, two washers and banjo fitting
- a few feet of 3/16" ID vinyl tubing rated for 60 psi or more. I got mine at my local hardware store.
- a 0-100 psi gauge. I also got mine at a hardware store for $10. It had a 1/4" NPT fitting.
- 1/4 NPT to hose fitting adapter.
-some brake cleaner and paper towels for locating your transmission ID #
-teflon tape for NPT fitting
-ramps for front wheels. Jackstands can work too.
-chocks for rear wheels
-TDM printouts that are attached to the next post.

Gauge assembly:

-take your scrounged ALDA banjo bolt and hollow screw and clean it really thoroughly with brake cleaner. Clean it some more. Transmission fluid is going to go into this fitting, and then get sucked back into the transmission. You want this thing clean! Let it dry for a little while.
-attach your gauge to the hose fitting using some teflon tape.
- push the the ends of the vinyl hose onto the hose fittings on the gauge and the banjo bolt.
-make sure everything looks nice and tight. This stuff will be under 50-80 psi.
-wrap a plastic bag around the banjo bolt (keep it clean!) end of your gauge assembly and bring it to the car

The Main Event:
- make sure you have the right fluid level in your transmission.
- put front wheels on ramps. Jackstands can also work, but get them up high! Im a thin guy and I really appreciate the extra height the ramps give me.
-put e-brake on and chock the rear wheels. Safety first...
-turn car off and put in P.
-first you need to identify what exact model transmission you have. You can find the transmission ID on the passenger side of the tranny. It is located on a flat right above the front of the pan. You probably will ned a paper towel with a little brake cleaner to clean the area off. It may be obstructed a little bit by your exhaust pipe, but its there I promise. You are looking for a number that begins with 722.xxx
-before you get too dirty consult the TDM printout for your proper reading. I have a 722.315 and my number was 2.9 bar. Write down this number and concert it to psi. 1 bar = 14.5 psi.
- get under the car on the drivers side. You are looking for your vacuum modulator. Mine is green. Yours may be red or black. It's above the pan - you have to get right up under the transmission to see it.
- a little below and to the rear of the modulator is a 12mm bolt. This is your test port. Unscrew the bolt and put it to the side somewhere...you guessed it..Clean!.
-screw in your banjo bolt. Point the hose up and to the rear of the car. BE VERY CAREFUL to seat the bolt correctly. Check again. If you dont, fluid will spew everywhere when you do the test. Dont ask me how I know!!!!
-snug it down, but do not overtighten.
-look at figure 2 - this is how it looks, but you wont have red fluid in the line yet.
-check everything again, and crawl out from underneath the car.
-plug the vacuum line that dives down to the transmission from the engine compartment.
-start the car. Quickly look down and check for leaks. I bet all is well.
-look at figure 3. This is what you will see. Fluid will be running down the tube, but wont make it to the gauge. A pressure reading will be registering on the gauge - figure 1. This is normal - I thought it wasn't at first and got concerned.
-what you need to do next is make the adjustment. This is done on the modulator itself. There is a little black plastic cap that hides a t handle. To make the adjustment youll need to pull the cap off, pop the T handle out a little bit and screw IN to RAISE pressure, and screw OUT to LOWER pressure. Adjustment is a little bit at a time. I turned my t handle half a turn to lower is 2 bar. I did this with the car on above me - it was easy this way.
-NOTE: the TDM says to do this test at 50kmh while driving. BUT, every reptuable Benz mechanic I have talked to says the same reading can be obtained in park. Thats how they all do it. It sure is easier. I dont wat to think about trying to rig up a drivable version of this.
-the adjustment doesn't take long if you do it with the car running.
-once the correct reading is achieved, let the car idle for a bit and make sure the reading is nice and stable after the transmission is at operating temperature.
-turn the car off.
- take off the banjo bolt, reinstall the 12mm plug bolt. re install the modulator rubber cap. reconnect the vacuum line.
- remove chocks, take car off ramps. test drive the beast.

Enjoy!! You can now continue your transmission debug. Make adjustments by other means (VCV, orifices etc.), NOT by the modulator any more - your work here is done. Hopefully this is the end of your debug journey.

Good luck,
dieseldan44

Special thanks to forum member tomnik for walking me through this measurement and providing the TDM scans.

PS - Ill take and attach some more pictures soon.

PRESSURE CHART :
722.112 - 3.8 bar
722.117 - 3.0
722.118 - 3.0

1981 -
722.300 - 2.4
722.301 - 3.5
722.303 - 2.9
722.304 - 3.5

1982 -
722.300 - 2.8
722.303 - 2.9
722.309 - 2.8
722.310 - 3.7
722.312 - 3.7
722.315 - 2.9 __________________


Attached Thumbnails
W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY - measure it the 'right' way-modulator-007.jpg   W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY - measure it the 'right' way-modulator-009.jpg   W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY - measure it the 'right' way-modulator-010.jpg  

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Posted by: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
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[diesel_mercedes] W123 Hunting

 


Bummer that Joe ;

I hate it when that happens, usually followed by some inane comment like 'I knew you loved these cars but thought you didn't want any more so I junked/gave away/sold it for pennies_ .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be


             Joe wrote :

Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Yahoo Diesel Group

 

Crikey, Nate!

Missing everyone here myself - being busy with other crap (read, other
stuff that needs doing, ie. travelling, day trips by coach and other
things!! :D) means I don't get time to write to you all and tell you how
everything is going.... and, yes! I am still MB diesel hunting.....
friend had a W123 300D with extremely low kilometres on it which he sold
and I did not know about!

Joe

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[diesel_mercedes] Brake Light Up Grade

 


 Thanx Brad ;

I'm not really concerned with the resistance, I want brighter brake lamps and each and every U.S.A. W123 has unused spots where the European version would have a rear fog lamp .

All I have to do is : snap in some junkyard bulb holders and solder to wires, I have the correct black with red trace wire .

Tom gave me a pair of #1156 LED bulbs recently .

I hope to do this to - day .

-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be

Brad  wrote :
 

I'm just throwing this out there......you might be able to use a current limiting resistor to get the overall resistance otherwise provided, or use a small driver circuit (transistor) in parallel with resistor that provides the incandescent resistance.   Great post....nice seeing you here, newdle.

 

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