Hello again
I figured out the the humming part is probably the instrument relay.
the part number has two lines
201 821 0047 which seems to be the number for a lot of different relays
then under the first number is 60 215 001
Are all relays numbered 201 821 0047 interchangeable?
Or do I need one with the same second number?
Thank you
I owe you all a drink.
Rodger
Hello All
Thank you again for the help.
In my wife's 1986 300SDL the instruments have all gone off and there is a humming noise coming from a small black box in the fuse compartment. The fuses are all good.
I posted two photos of the box in the album called "Rodger's Questions"
What is the black box?
Is it why the instruments have failed?
Does it pull straight out to remove?
Thank you
Rodger
Thanx ! please E-Mail the link to : VWNate1 (at) yahoo.com .
-Nate
Johnathan wrote:
>
> Nate,
>
> Send me an email. They are up on ebay, so I can give you the link to look at them, but I can pull them down and work something out if they are what you are looking for -- no bids yet as far as I know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Johnathan
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
You're preaching to _MY_ Choir ! =8-) .
But for the rust in the rear window , I'd not consider re spraying my '84 Sports Coupe in spite of chips , scratches , nicks and yes , a very small dings because it's only original _ONCE_ .
Sadly , two stage Automotive Paint systems do _not_ last nearly forever , the clear coat has a rather short life and once it begins to peel you're sunk ~ no amount of Carnuba Wax will fix it .
-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
> Car paint last forever. We've all been through that missed local junk yard were there are cars that are 70 year old, paint still drawing you to the possibilities of rubbing compound and Simonize wax.
>
> We have all also been in a parking lot, antique car show or show room with a car that looks to damn good to have it's original paint.
>
> It is then, at that moment, that our eyes begin to scan the paint and body work. We are searching for that one defect that we all know will be there, Bondo not quite right, a run where no one will notice, a slight ripple down the side that reassures us that the bitch has been wrecked.
>
> So, why would we paint our stuff? Certainly not to put it under the microscope described above. It's an automatic that an original paint job comes shining through. No questions ask, you look at it and you are reassured that it is still perfect, 35 years later.
>
> No, it does not look the same as it did in 1982, but it looks perfect. You know that, and I know that. And it takes no close up inspection to cause us to know it.
>
> Chip
> Houston
>
If you run it until the green low fuel triangle in the fuel gauge comes on , you still have 35 + miles to go , I've squeezed 40 + miles without running it dry .
The obvious & simple solution is to begin looking for Diesel Fuel when it gets between 1/2 and 1/4 tank as you still have 250 miles to go at that point and if you're not finding Diesel Fuel in So. Cal. within 200 miles , you have another problem best not discussed here.... =8-) .
I see all FLAPS now have nifty cute little 1.5 gallon red plastic fuel cans with built in spouts , you can place this in either side well of the trunk and it should stay put unless you're following me up the canyons .
After Tom ran us out of fuel tantalizingly close to a Cheap Diesel station in Arizona when it was 112° F , I too have the phobia as soon as I get below 1/4 tank but not before .
-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
> One of the lesser know axioms of life is that you do not let your MB diesel run out of fuel.
>
> Toward that end, I have started thinking about toting some diesel fuel in the trunk of my car. The problem, of course, is that diesel is a traveler and is not happy staying in one place, be it a can, jug, bottle, or milk container.
>
> I get this fear that comes upon me as my fuel gauge goes below a quarter of a tank. Locked in state, I begin darting my head from left to right as I precariously travel down life's highway. Almost never does my reassurance come as a "diesel here" sign.
>
> It's just not worth it to live out life this way. Surely there is a magical parachute that one can wrap a tiny part of life in security. Please help at least this phobia!
>
> Chip
> Houston
>
It's completely different from the W-123's .
Bummer but once in a while they turn up .
Maybe Tom Hansen @ The Mercedes Classic Center can help you out with a new one .
-Nate
Bill wrote:
>
> Nate (and all),
> "Miss Daisy" is a brand new (2/1974) 240D. I believe that makes it a 115. VIN# 115.117 10 027591 So if I have a chance of finding a pass side mirror it will probabily be an "early style" 'eh?
> Cheers,
> Bill
> aka "kipsinc"
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Bill ;
> >
> > What year model is your W-123 ? .
> >
> > They changed the base of the mirror in mid 1981 (?) so there's an early and late version of the popular passengers side mirror .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Bill wrote:
> > >
> > > Hmmm,
> > > 1977 240D "ubiquitous pale yellow, with Bamboo interior", sounds like my "Miss Daisy". Anyhow, I could use the radio and tri-angles. Mercedes manuals are always popular (with me), but what I really, really need is a passenger's outside mirror. Daisy has none and it drives me crazy when I have to back up. Location would be helpful.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Bill
> > >
> >
>
It won't fit from a Turbo equipped OM617 vehicle .
Brand new all metal Chinese ones are $200 + tax delivered to your door .
1-800-RADIATOR
-Nate
Brad wrote:
>
> My 1981 240D needs a radiator. It has a manual transmission so I do not have to worry about tranny lines. The AC has not worked for decades so that is not an issue. The one and only Mercedes in the local pick a part is a 1983 300SD. Will that fit my 240? Did Mercedes do anything like change the location of the hose fittings.
>
> Thanks, Brad
>
Posted by: "rkitt2002" rkitt@netscape.com rkitt2002
Date: Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:59 pm ((PDT))
Hello All
My 1978 300D (non turbo) is not running.
Running used oil is nasty but should work. Disconnect your fuel return line
crank and check for flow. You should get some. Check the glow plugs. Air in
the lines usually is what my problem is. Make sure every clamp is tight. Use
the primer pump to get air out of the system. 100 strokes should do it. If my
glow plugs are good that usually gets it started for a while. Also take off
the secondary and check the primary fuel filters. The secondary screw on should
be full of fuel. It should also be free blowing. I know this is gross but if
you can't pass air through it it is bad. Any resistance means it is clogged.
Good luck. Lawrence Rhodes...
Door locks seem fine. What part is the servo and where is it located? I searched for it but can't find it in the archives.
Jim
