Diesel RVs: 11/01/18

Re: [diesel_mercedes] 300TD 3rd Row Seat Belts

Glad to know they arrived. I can relax now.

"Hardware eventually fails. Software eventually works"
- Michael Hartung

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On Thu, 11/1/18, Nate vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Thanx to Bogy ;
I received a nice pair of gently used W123 set
belts whilst I was out taking Foster boy trick or treating
.
I'll need to clean them all up but they look
good to me, THANK YOU Bogy .
I also received a steering wheel that's
either not the same one pictured or the seller has mad
photography skills .
Life goes on .

-NateIf it don't fit
don't force it 'cause you'll make yer Momma
mad

__._,_.___

Posted by: Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com>

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[diesel_mercedes] Working On 1982 240D...... [4 Attachments]

[Attachment(s) from Nate included below]

Remember the blue European driver's seat I temporarily put in my 240D because the springs broke ? .

It's still in there, still coating the rear foot well with dust and bits of coconut fibers as the upper and lower pads crumble .

SWMBO was complaining about the broken springs causing the driver's seat to list heavily to the left, I removed it and sourced a nice unbroken seat spring box, took it all apart and haven't touched it since although I put it where I walk past it multiple times a day .

SWMBO is 5'3" tall and so needs the seat raised up a goodly bit, I'm 6' so I slid it down / back as far as it'd go and it got _stuck_ there, even smacking it with a BIG dead blow mallet couldn't budge it so I decided to dive in and see what I could do ~ pic. #1 shows hot the seat when in it's lowest position, covers the 10MM ATF rear mounting bolts, I used an open end wrench as was able to turn the bolts 1/4 turn at a time, this took some time and I discovered that holding the entire seat up a little bit with a large flat screwdriver, helped a great deal .

Pic. #2 shows the other seat bolt, same deal, same struggle to get it out but as it says in the I-Ching, ancient book of Chinese philosophy "Perseverance Furthers" and in due time I got them out and then the front two then I removed the seat and inverted it and discovered that if you remove the two large, heavy coil retraction springs, it's far easier to use the dead blow mallet to force the jammed sliders into positions where you can use a #2 Phillips screw driver to remove all _THREE_ 6MM track to seat base screws, two are hidden at any given time,

you need to remove two screws then slide (in my case knock) the slider forward and back whilst peering through little holes until you actually _see- the third, hidden screw .

Then you'll need some brushes, I used mostly an acid brush as it goes further into the dirty tracks than does any toothbrush or mini wire brush although those were very useful too ~ keep cleaning from each end until you cannot rinse out any more crud/dirt/rust/coconut fibers, sliding the individual tracks back and forth, forth and back , eventually if you're lucky or persistent the tracks will begin to slide even if not easily, then you lubricate them with aerosol white grease unless of course you left the foo-foo can of that at SWMBO's house, then you experiment with aerosol graphite (messy and not really good for this job) or aerosol silicone (passable, at least it didn't make a BIG black mess) until at long last the damn thongs sort of slide again....

Then you look at the pile of little parts and screws, springs, paper spacers and so on and wonder what goes where .

Eventually you'll get it re assembled and replace some of the gone missing screws and only have -one- left over (found it after I'd replaced some missing ones) and the seat goes back in the car and I decided to move on to the driver's side door, during the last 30 - odd years this door has been apart several times and there's quite a bit of accumulated glue for the vapor sheet, it only took me a few hours to clean it and the accumulated Diesel smoot off (pic. #3) and take the new vapor barrier sheet (pic. #4) I bought from the M-B Classic Center (! Thanx Tom !) for a whopping $4 each, lightly spray it with 3M aerosol automotive cement and install it then have the more fun of trimming the door card to accept a full length arm rest / door pull (pix coming soon, I promise) and manage to get the map pocket's easy to snap off retaining plastic hook properly in the slot in the metal door frame so mayhap it won't get broken again.....

Then I took my new (to me) digital electronic remote tachometer and a small bit of reflective tape, put the tape on the harmonic balancer and fired it up, discovered the engine does indeed idle too fast and when I tried to adjust it I discovered the vertical linkage rod from the I.P. to the linkage, was adjusted too long and so was holding the engine at a fast idle of 1,051 RPM's hot, in neutral .

I disconnected this rod and adjusted the idle speed, trying to get it to factory spec. of 750 ~ 800 RPM's but then whenever I put it in gear or turn on the AC, high beams and other loads, the idle drops to 625 or so,fairly smooth but maybe too slow ? .

I'll need to find out if I'm supposed to se the hot idle speed in neutral with all accessories off or what .

For now it idles smoothly and slowly, doesn't bang into gear and the brakes work better now that the engine isn't idling too fast .

Whew .

Lots of works here, I'm sure SWMBO will be pleased, I sure am , I like this base model stripper Mercedes more than makes any sense whatsoever .

I added a vintage "gas economy" vacuum gauge to the tranny's modulator so I can see what's going on, another, separate thread is coming soon as I need some help to figure out the 722.117 trannys basic adjustments......

I've indicated several tech specs in here I'm not sure of, feel free to chime in, my 722.117 tranny thread will be asking for hydraulic pressure specs as well as where to add the test gauge and at what speed/gear I'm supposed to check / adjust it at/in.....

-Nate

If it don't fit don't force it 'cause you'll make yer Momma mad

__._,_.___

Attachment(s) from Nate | View attachments on the web

4 of 4 Photo(s)

Posted by: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Body & Paint Work

Thank you good Sir .

-Nate

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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Routine Maintenance & Acronyms

It depends Mark ;

On newer cars it means maybe lubing the door seals, on out older cars it means greasing the door hinges and graphiting the key locks, you know I'm, old and so use the same terminology used when all vehicles had myriad Zerk fittings .

-Nate

Mark wrote :

Oh, OK.

What does the "Lube" entail?

Mark in Centennial, CO