Re: [diesel_mercedes] OT: VW glow plugs.. Terminal problem.. :(

 

The electrical connection end looks a lot like the end of the temperature sensors used in our iron head diesels.  The sensors are located in the head; one is for the temperature guage, the other is for the glow plug timer.  Many of these cars also have a sensor in the thermostat housing, used to switch the electric fans in front of the radiator off and on.  Gassers had many of these same sensors.  Maybe you could find a late '70's, '80's (maybe '90's) MB in a PAP and clip some of these connectors....

(BTW... RockAuto is listing glow plugs for this car for under $10.  NGKs.  Don't know if they're any good....)

Mark in Lakewood, CO
From: "ajrnemt" <ajrn@hotmail.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 5:29:21 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] OT:  VW glow plugs..  Terminal problem.. :(

 

Yup, I'm aware I'm on the wrong board..

Many of the VW types tend to be "parts replacers" not fixers..

I've got a '97 Passat TDI.

The glow plugs are a push on type connection (not stud/nut type) for the 12V..

Do you know of anyone that makes a push on terminal that fits the end of the VW diesel glow plug??

the link is an example of these overpriced plugs!

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=391

One of the terminals has broken off, and I don't want to drop $80 on the "VW" wiring harness, when realistically it WILL happen again..

Any direction you can provide would be appreciated--

Anthony

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Electrical issues with my '91 350SD

 

Anne, 
 
    Actually, it does stop.  Or at least moves to new issues to address. 
 
    You have the 350 engine, which is a straight six, and the "rod bender" if I recall right.  Do you have a history on it.  Was the (warranty) engine fix done? 
 
    At least with that engine, you have hydraulic lifters, and no monthly valve adjustment to do. 
 
    Don't let anyone tell you that battery and alternator replacements go together.  That's just a way to give someone else your hard earned (or easily inherited?) money.  If you have a bad battery, replace that.  If you have a bad alternator, replace that. 
 
    BUT, an undercharged battery could be as simple as having gotten low on water.  A battery with too little water doesn't hold a charge (fill ONLY with distilled water). 
 
   A perfectly good alternator may look bad if it is trying to charge a battery that won't hold a charge. 
 
    In these cars, the more likely problem than the alternator is the regulator.  This is a small module that screws onto the back of the alternator, and has brushes that sit on the alternator shaft.  The brushes wear out over time.  Changing the regulator module is much cheaper than changing the alternator (and much easier).  Only use the proper Bosch regulator - Nate will probably wander by and post the correct part #. 
 
    BUT, before you go around replacing things, make sure that your grounds are all good.  And that there isn't good charging going on.  Auto parts places and even places like Walmart have very inexpensive devices that plug into the cigarette lighter socket and will give you a constant indication of the charging voltage (at idle, and running, and highway charging)  If such a device tells you you are getting low voltage anywhere above idle, you have a problem and you need to find it BEFORE you start shotgun replacing parts. 
 
Tom 
 
 
In a message dated 11/28/2011 7:45:52 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, ah957@bellsouth.net writes:
 

Thanks, Tom.

Went ahead and rotated and replaced a few nasty-looking fuses. Now, can't turn engine over due to weak battery. In process of recharging it. Might be heading toward battery and alternator replacement (?). Never ends, does it?

Anne

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> When my gauges quit, it turned out to be a bad fuse. It doesn't hurt to
> spend a few minutes rotating each fuse in it's slot, every year. The fuse
> ends and the connector tabs can develop corrosion. The simple task of
> rotating them back and forth will cut through the corrosion and give you another
> trouble free year.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> In a message dated 11/28/2011 3:09:06 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> ah957@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Drove home from work this week, and a mile or so down the road, my gauges,
> speedometer, odometer, fuel and temp gauges all went dead. Headlights were
> OK. No battery indicator on while driving. I let it sit a few days, now
> just went out to turn it over. Glow plugs heated up, turned over fine. Still
> no gauges. Any troubleshooting advice? Fuse issues? Thanks all!
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Electrical issues with my '91 350SD

 

Thanks, Tom.

Went ahead and rotated and replaced a few nasty-looking fuses. Now, can't turn engine over due to weak battery. In process of recharging it. Might be heading toward battery and alternator replacement (?). Never ends, does it?

Anne

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> When my gauges quit, it turned out to be a bad fuse. It doesn't hurt to
> spend a few minutes rotating each fuse in it's slot, every year. The fuse
> ends and the connector tabs can develop corrosion. The simple task of
> rotating them back and forth will cut through the corrosion and give you another
> trouble free year.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> In a message dated 11/28/2011 3:09:06 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> ah957@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Drove home from work this week, and a mile or so down the road, my gauges,
> speedometer, odometer, fuel and temp gauges all went dead. Headlights were
> OK. No battery indicator on while driving. I let it sit a few days, now
> just went out to turn it over. Glow plugs heated up, turned over fine. Still
> no gauges. Any troubleshooting advice? Fuse issues? Thanks all!
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Design News - Made by Monkeys - Malibu Headlamp Replacement Necessitates Bumper Removal

 

http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1367&doc_id=235968 YOU
THINK WE HAVE PROBLEMS WITH HEATER SYSTEMS ETC, LOOK AT THIS.

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: no crank, but starter OK

 

On further investigation, there is no other relay in the circuit; it's either the switch at the shifter or a wiring problem, methinks.

Any experience diagnosing/replacing this switch? I took the console cover off, but don't see an obvious switch or multiple connector plug...

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "bigbopper98118" <bigbopper98118@...> wrote:
>
> The key won't make the starter crank, but turning to start elicits a click from under the dash, echoed when key released to run position.
>
> The reverse lights work in reverse and not in other gears, so the switch at the base of the shifter seems to work correctly.
>
> So it's apparently in the wiring or a module or relay in the circuit; I'd dive into the dashboard if I had the procedure at hand, but can't find it in the two-DVD manual or the online one in our files.
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion of how I should proceed?
>
> Shorting the + battery terminal to the small screw on the 3-screw unit on the fender well makes it crank, and if the key's on, it will start...
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] no crank, but starter OK

 

I just resolved that issue with a new solenoid (which was my problem) + starter which was old and tired too.
 
brian from la verne, ca
From: bigbopper98118 <bigbopper98118@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 5:28 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] no crank, but starter OK
 
The key won't make the starter crank, but turning to start elicits a click from under the dash, echoed when key released to run position.

The reverse lights work in reverse and not in other gears, so the switch at the base of the shifter seems to work correctly.

So it's apparently in the wiring or a module or relay in the circuit; I'd dive into the dashboard if I had the procedure at hand, but can't find it in the two-DVD manual or the online one in our files.

Does anyone have a suggestion of how I should proceed?

Shorting the + battery terminal to the small screw on the 3-screw unit on the fender well makes it crank, and if the key's on, it will start...



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] heater problems

 

On 11/28/2011 10:56 AM, Chip wrote:

 

My 1982 300CD turbo coupe has a heating issue. When I first drive the car on a cold morning there is no heat at all coming into the interior of the car.

But if I stop and turn the car off, even for a short time, I can get back in the car and the heater is working fine.

Any ideas on what would cause this quirk?

It sounds like you have found the solution to your problem.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] CD - ROM Shop Manuals

 

On 11/28/2011 4:37 PM, Nate wrote:

 


Yes , your up to date computer is missing Adobe Acrobat V. 3 , this is necessary to read the older PDF files , it shoukld be partof ther CD ROM , give it a look .

-Nate
(who had the same issue)

Sid Asked :

I tried to acess some of the infomation on that service manual, but my
computer can't. Am I missing a program or something?

the CD for my 83 SD etc requires Netscape.  Remember Netscape.  At least they had the foresight to put it on the disc.

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[diesel_mercedes] no crank, but starter OK

 

The key won't make the starter crank, but turning to start elicits a click from under the dash, echoed when key released to run position.

The reverse lights work in reverse and not in other gears, so the switch at the base of the shifter seems to work correctly.

So it's apparently in the wiring or a module or relay in the circuit; I'd dive into the dashboard if I had the procedure at hand, but can't find it in the two-DVD manual or the online one in our files.

Does anyone have a suggestion of how I should proceed?

Shorting the + battery terminal to the small screw on the 3-screw unit on the fender well makes it crank, and if the key's on, it will start...

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[diesel_mercedes] Like Sands through the Hourglass

 

I don't suppose anyone on this board has been with their 240 or 300 d since the beginning. Yet I am curious when the onset of age was apparent in these cars. Did the doors stop locking 10 years from new? The transmission start "flaring" after 15 years? The rough idle until 20 years?

The problems seem so predictable now, we all post in about the same shit. (me excepted because I drag race mine)

But who among us has lived through the aging process of these great cars. Was the first 20 years flawless?

Someone please tell us of the early years, when sun roofs flew open and shut and not a cracked dash to be found.

Chip
Houston

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[diesel_mercedes] OT: VW glow plugs.. Terminal problem.. :(

 

Yup, I'm aware I'm on the wrong board..

Many of the VW types tend to be "parts replacers" not fixers..

I've got a '97 Passat TDI.

The glow plugs are a push on type connection (not stud/nut type) for the 12V..

Do you know of anyone that makes a push on terminal that fits the end of the VW diesel glow plug??

the link is an example of these overpriced plugs!

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=391

One of the terminals has broken off, and I don't want to drop $80 on the "VW" wiring harness, when realistically it WILL happen again..

Any direction you can provide would be appreciated--

Anthony

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Electrical issues with my '91 350SD

 

    When my gauges quit, it turned out to be a bad fuse.  It doesn't hurt to spend a few minutes rotating each fuse in it's slot, every year.  The fuse ends and the connector tabs can develop corrosion.  The simple task of rotating them back and forth will cut through the corrosion and give you another trouble free year. 
 
Tom 
 
 
In a message dated 11/28/2011 3:09:06 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, ah957@bellsouth.net writes:
 

Drove home from work this week, and a mile or so down the road, my gauges, speedometer, odometer, fuel and temp gauges all went dead. Headlights were OK. No battery indicator on while driving. I let it sit a few days, now just went out to turn it over. Glow plugs heated up, turned over fine. Still no gauges. Any troubleshooting advice? Fuse issues? Thanks all!

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