[Diesel-RVs] unknown vibration when coasting

I have a Safari Serengeti RV with a 300 hp CAT and 6 Speed Allison
Transmission. The rig has not quite 40k miles. The problem - once the
thing gets warmed up and I'm going down the highway, it vibrates
somewhere in the back end. It will quit momentarily if I touch the
brake or accelerator. Sorry, it's a rear diesel pusher. A man replaced
some bolts in the suspension he said were worn and I have six new tires
that are balanced. Alignment has been done as needed. Any ideas would
be real helpful. My friend says it's in the rear end, but I doubt it.
It doesn't act up when it's pulling. Thanks a lot, Glen Milender,
Northern Minnesota

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: MotorHome Check-List

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "northstatebiker"
<djohnsonhot@...> wrote:
>
> That was an excellent list. Good detail. Would take hours but it
is
> worth the time.
>
> There are advantages and disadvantages to working with retail RV
> dealers versus working with the original owner.
>
> One advantage: I always ask the owner to perform the first 15 to 20
> minutes of the actual test drive and then pull into a lot and I do
my
> thing.
>
> Why have him or he drive it? Well, I hope that this is not too
> obvious but it is easy to spot a lead foot who drives the rig hard
> when first cold. It the guy starts it from dead cold, which is
what
> you tell him to do (Sir, please do not start it before I show
> up)....and he gooses it right off, I may not be interested. I am
> spooked by lead foots.
>
> Sure, you'll have plenty of people here who drive that way, but my
> method is to drive slowly, and surely after a short warm-up and let
> the rig warm to operating temps prior to achieving high RPM's.
>
> Second, how does this person drive? Do they push it hard, break
> hard, all in a big hurry? Well, that tells you something.
>
> Third, ask about how he maintains things. The more detail that he
> provides, the better. I would shy away from the non-mechanical
types
> as they are not all that good about their own maintenance, such as
> small items like lubing your automatic steps, taking care of water
> quality (semi-annual or better treatments), checking for voltage at
> campgrounds.
>
> In short, sorry about the length, an original owner can truly
reveal a
> lot beyond the sales pitch.
>
> I have personally seen Sales guys at dealers run their used and new
> inventory really hard. Sales guys are notorious for showing
off "how
> much power she's got!!"
>
> I would be wary of an owner who only talks about the
> performance--which is a tell-tale sign of a person who drives hard,
> breaks hard, is generally impatient and the condition of the engine
> and tranny will suffer as a result.
>
> IMHO, this is how I look at used coaches. I am sure many will, "ah,
> you can't hurt a diesel." But the engine is but a small part of the
> drive train and there's much more to these rigs in terms of
> maintenance than anyone will tell you. Gas rigs are much easier to
> maintain and require quite a bit less attention.
>
> Finally, an owner's "mentality" is really what I am after. My
> favorite prior owner is an "attention to detail" type of guy. I
could
> go on and and about a friends used DP that he bought last
summer...it
> was so clear to us when we saw this coach, right off, and the number
> of problems they uncovered after the sale has been ridiculous.
> Luckily, they got a pretty fair price and that money savings has
> easily been spent....my buddy totally ignored my advice and has paid
> dearly for his lack of a good checklist and his inattention to the
old
> sick fella who was selling this coach.
>
> DJ
>
thanks for the info, kim

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[diesel_mercedes] Killer Cool Catalog

Wow ! pretty cool Brian ;

Now for Christmas , I want what's on Page 105.......

Some of the sales brochures are pretty neat too and they even have a W-
123 book .

-Nate
Brian wrote:
Try here - slow loading as it is a pdf file from the motherland

http://www.mercedes-benz-
oldtimerservice.com/content/classic/retailer/classiccenter/my_library/me
dia_library/classic_collection/collectionskatalog.object-Single-
MEDIA.tmp/Collectionskatalog%20April%202007%20englisch.pdf

brian



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Unwanted Critters Under The House

ygmir111 wrote:

> naw.....
> I know a Norwegian can open a box of cereal.........
>
> --
>
>
Wheres Garrison Keillor when we need him? Max

>
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Klima I HVAC = MAJOR Vacuum Leak

Yeah,I need to fix mine,my diesel won't shut off with the heater working.

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

No ; it's _different_ from Sgt. Sticky Valve .

I was just outside fiddling with my newly repaired Central Locking and
seat vacumm , decided to hook up the green Klima feed pipe and Lo ~ a
major vacuum leak ensued so now I guess I've got to go underneath the
dashboard , I couldn't find any vacuum signal at the servo no matter
what buttom I pushed , not even to the hot water valve when in defrost
mode so I dunno how it gets so darn hot inside .

*SIGH* .

The one good thing (I guess) is : last night I received a pictorial
step by step vacuum leak trouble shooting guide so when (if) I finally
pull the console out (no other way to acess things dammit) I'll be able
to follow it to a logical conclusion (I hope) .

-Nate



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] -75 w 115

Damn - now I want one of everything >:o .

/KJ

BStromsoe wrote:
Try here - slow loading as it is a pdf file from the motherland
 
 
brian

Karl Järnhammer <jernhammer@ystad.nu> wrote:
Are you guys familiar with these?

Are you guys familiar with these?



brian from la verne, ca


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[diesel_mercedes] Klima I HVAC = MAJOR Vacuum Leak

No ; it's _different_ from Sgt. Sticky Valve .

I was just outside fiddling with my newly repaired Central Locking and
seat vacumm , decided to hook up the green Klima feed pipe and Lo ~ a
major vacuum leak ensued so now I guess I've got to go underneath the
dashboard , I couldn't find any vacuum signal at the servo no matter
what buttom I pushed , not even to the hot water valve when in defrost
mode so I dunno how it gets so darn hot inside .

*SIGH* .


The one good thing (I guess) is : last night I received a pictorial
step by step vacuum leak trouble shooting guide so when (if) I finally
pull the console out (no other way to acess things dammit) I'll be able
to follow it to a logical conclusion (I hope) .

-Nate


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[diesel_mercedes] Critters In Yer Britches

Naw.....I know a Norwegian can open a box of cereal.........
    How many does THAT take??
Robert
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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Tire Pressure - Can't Fill When Cold

I would check the pressure to determine how much to add when I reach a
fill station. That is why I asked the question.

Harry

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "cbgramp" <cbgramps@...> wrote:
>
> This may be a silly question but here goes anyway. If you have no way
> of adding air, why check the pressure? Or, is this like you said, "a
> hypothetic question?
>
> Charlie
> 1999 Tradewinds
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "harryyoungii" <hyoungii@> wrote:
> >
> > So here is a question that has been bugging me forever: I wake up in
> > the morning and my tire pressure is down five pounds (hypothetically),
> > but I have no way to add five pounds before I drive 40 miles. By that
> > time the pressure reads fine due to heating, but should I pull in and
> > add 5 pounds to the tire anyway to make up for the deficit I knew I
> > had an hour earlier when the tires were cold.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Harry
> > 04 Windsor
> >
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] '68 220D ** PICTURES OF SOPHIA- FINALLY

No good inside pics yet - working on it
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Tire Pressure - Can't Fill When Cold

cbgramp wrote:
> This may be a silly question but here goes anyway. If you have no way
> of adding air, why check the pressure? Or, is this like you said, "a
> hypothetic question?
>

It's a very valid, relevant question. If at a campground or whatever, he
can check his pressure and if, say 7# low in the RF tire, he can add 7#
at the next opportunity.

Of course, if he is 17# low, he has to figure out some way of adding air
before setting out. Also, if only one tire is low, figure out why, but
that is another subject.

Most--not all--DPs have an on-board way of adding air to tires. If not
so equipped a good compressor is worthwhile, but good ones that are
compact can be hard to find.

Bob Clerc
@ Norco, CA


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Unwanted Critters Under The House

naw.....
I know a Norwegian can open a box of cereal.........

----- Original Message -----
From: "BStromsoe" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Unwanted Critters Under The House


> Invite him in, close the doors, and go to a motel for 30 days - he will
> starve to death.
>
> brian
>
> vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I don't have Norwigans but a _skunk_ seems to have taken up residence
> underneath my bedroom window , he comes by every night around 03:15 and
> the stink wakes me up ~ I'm not stupid enough to go out with a
> flashlight and garden hose , what is the best way to get rid of this
> critter ? .
>
> TIA ,
>
> -Nate
>
>
>
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
> now.


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Tiny Chunks In Fuel

In a message dated 1/30/2008 8:53:37 AM Pacific Standard Time, vwnate1@yahoo.com writes:
In addition to the small amount of tiny chunks , I often find the
fuel is black like coffee...
 
    Maybe you should put it in your mug.  I know you like that 7-11 stuff, but it costs a lot more per gallon than dirty diesel. 
 
Tom




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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Tiny Chunks In Fuel

My fuel has been clear,but after 150-200miles I can tell when screen gets clogged.So I blow thru it with a air gun (with cap off).Sometimes I leave a little pressure in it for fun.I've been using same primary for months clean with carb cleaner or wd40.My 5 micron filter was full of that stuff too.

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

That's a very good point ~ I've changed all the underhood hoses ,
maybe it's time to go back and change the tank hoses too .

I do drive about 1,000 miles every week , sometimes over 1,200 .

In addition to the small amount of tiny chunks , I often find the
fuel is black like coffee...

-Nate
Tom wrote:
> > Is it possible that the tiny chunks are bits of old hose that
are trying to
> give you a warning of something? The way you describe driving to
work, to
> Pasadena and to SWMBO's house, you're not letting any fuel sit in
the system
> long enough to grow fungus.
>
> Over here on the west side, the fuel is all clean. Probably
the nice
> salt breezes from Santa Monica bay kill off the fungus.
>
> Tom



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Tiny Chunks In Fuel

That's a very good point ~ I've changed all the underhood hoses ,
maybe it's time to go back and change the tank hoses too .

I do drive about 1,000 miles every week , sometimes over 1,200 .

In addition to the small amount of tiny chunks , I often find the
fuel is black like coffee...

-Nate
Tom wrote:
> > Is it possible that the tiny chunks are bits of old hose that
are trying to
> give you a warning of something? The way you describe driving to
work, to
> Pasadena and to SWMBO's house, you're not letting any fuel sit in
the system
> long enough to grow fungus.
>
> Over here on the west side, the fuel is all clean. Probably
the nice
> salt breezes from Santa Monica bay kill off the fungus.
>
> Tom


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: FUNGUS (Diesel Slime)

There's _always_ a filter , it's just usually located _inside_ the
dispensing pump where the station operator can easily ignore it......

When you consider the amount of fuel pumped daily , they'd have to
change them (the filters) every 48 hours or so tp prevent them from
clogging up and then the internal by-pass valve opens , allowing dirty
unfiltered fuel out anyways...

Just for fun take a lumber crayon to your local truckstop and mark the
date in a hard to see place on the outside of that long filter on the
pump , see how long it takes before they change it .

-Nate
Nate wrote:
>
> Do they still have a external filter on the diesel pumps out there?
Where I'm fueling no filter.Just came to me this morning.Nearest
truckstop 80 miles.


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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Tire Pressure - Can't Fill When Cold

This may be a silly question but here goes anyway. If you have no way
of adding air, why check the pressure? Or, is this like you said, "a
hypothetic question?

Charlie
1999 Tradewinds

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "harryyoungii" <hyoungii@...> wrote:
>
> So here is a question that has been bugging me forever: I wake up in
> the morning and my tire pressure is down five pounds (hypothetically),
> but I have no way to add five pounds before I drive 40 miles. By that
> time the pressure reads fine due to heating, but should I pull in and
> add 5 pounds to the tire anyway to make up for the deficit I knew I
> had an hour earlier when the tires were cold.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Harry
> 04 Windsor
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] -75 w 115

Try here - slow loading as it is a pdf file from the motherland
 
 
brian

Karl Järnhammer <jernhammer@ystad.nu> wrote:
Are you guys familiar with these?

Are you guys familiar with these?



brian from la verne, ca


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] -75 w 115

Thank you Jeff

Very interesting site - I will be having a look round in greater detail later.

Best wishes
KJ

Jeff Fennema wrote:
Yes, I have a model of one. However, not usually found in the US, as they often met different regulations. Cadillac was the preferred chassis for modification in the US, although ambulance (and Hearse) were built on every chassis.
I am a member of the Professional Car Society, which would cover this one well:
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 10:08 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] -75 w 115

Are you guys familiar with these?

Are you guys familiar with these?

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Used transmission needed for a 1977 240D.

> If anyone has a used Mercedes 240D automatic transmission for sale please
> contact me. Lawrence Rhodes primobassoon@sbcglobal.net
>
Just my opinion: Transmissions are not that difficult to rebuild, as long as
you can follow instructions and resist the urge to improvise. Easier than
engines, by a lot.
Also, a used transmission is not that much better than the one you've got,
if any. I vote for rebuild of the unit you have, as you already know what is
wrong (it don't work), you know it fits (a biggie), and you'll know its a
good'un when you're done.
I did opt for a used trans, one that I had personally removed after driving
the donor car, though it had sat for a couple years. When I had got it in,
it would NOT disengage from forward, AT ALL. I finally got it disengaged by
revving the engine with the brake firmly on (and not whilst anything was in
front of me!). However, this could easily have ripped the clutch friction
material to shreds and rendered it useless. It may have reduced it's life by
a lot, I only drove the car for a couple months, as the emission police
caught up with it (long story, happy ending).
Jeff


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] HWH Active Air

Hi David,
Don't know about the Active Air system, but we have the HWH air bag LEVELING system on our 04 Monaco Windsor. No hydraulic jacks. Our coach has 8 air bags. One air bag in front of and one behind each wheel. Each air bag has its own shock. The system on my Roadmaster chassis is a active air system while traveling to keep the coach at ride height while traveling down the blvd. Don't know if or how the two systems are integrated. A visit to their factory in Iowa will find that HWH are a very accommodating. In fact, they will take you to lunch if you get there before 11 am.
Saw some pics on the new stainless bird. Very impressive. The 900K price is way out of my league. Chuck B

david brady <dmb993@earthlink.net> wrote:
Folks,

Anyone out there have first hand experience with HWH Active Air? This
topic came up some time ago and there were listers considering the
upgrade. On a side note, BlueBird Wanderlodge is using AA in their new
2009 motorcoach. I haven't driven the new bird; consequently, I can't
comment on AA's performance.

Thanks,
David Brady
'02 BlueBird, LXi


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] -75 w 115

Yes, I have a model of one. However, not usually found in the US, as they often met different regulations. Cadillac was the preferred chassis for modification in the US, although ambulance (and Hearse) were built on every chassis.
I am a member of the Professional Car Society, which would cover this one well:
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 10:08 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] -75 w 115

Are you guys familiar with these?

Are you guys familiar with these?
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: FUNGUS (Diesel Slime)

In a message dated 1/30/2008 7:24:08 AM Pacific Standard Time, vwnate1@yahoo.com writes:
I keep having black fuel that looks like coffee and tiny chunks of
God knows what , in my intake screen but every time I remove the fuel
tank screen , it is clean as a whistle so I think that maybe a lot of
fuel being sold has fungus allready growing in it...

Bummer , that .
 
    Is it possible that the tiny chunks are bits of old hose that are trying to give you a warning of something?  The way you describe driving to work, to Pasadena and to SWMBO's house, you're not letting any fuel sit in the system long enough to grow fungus. 
 
    Over here on the west side, the fuel is all clean.  Probably the nice salt breezes from Santa Monica bay kill off the fungus. 
 
Tom 




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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: FUNGUS (Diesel Slime)

Do they still have a external filter on the diesel pumps out there? Where I'm fueling no filter.Just came to me this morning.Nearest truckstop 80 miles.

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

Yes well ;

You can add one whole bottle of Startron to kill the fungus then keep
on adding it per fillup to retard it's re - formation , unless you
run the tank down to 1/4 or less , it'll take _forever_ to get it all
out .

I keep having black fuel that looks like coffee and tiny chunks of
God knows what , in my intake screen but every time I remove the fuel
tank screen , it is clean as a whistle so I think that maybe a lot of
fuel being sold has fungus allready growing in it...

Bummer , that .

-Nate
Rich wrote:
>
> I'm halfway through my second big jug of Startron and I'm still
> mining black goop in my prefilter...I buy them by the dozen now.
> And just changed the tank screen for the second time... totally
> caked with same. I could feel a lot of spunge in the tank while
the
> screen was out.
>
> Starting with the second jug, I upped my per-tank dose to 8oz and
> the filter loaded up faster.
>
> I only hope the stuff isn't just continuing to grow in the tank as
> fast as it's coming out.
>
> Rich



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[diesel_mercedes] -75 w 115

Are you guys familiar with these?

Are you guys familiar with these?

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: fuel filter woes

They don't have biodiesel rated hose out here.

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

Jeff ;

Buy _ONLY_ the correct Metric size hose from a Foreign partshaus or
any Mercedes shop or dealer , you'll be far ahead for it , DO NOT use
screw typ hose clamps ! re - use your originals . if they're gone
missing , pay the $2.50 for the correct ones or go to Pick-A-Part ,
the best ones are all covered in grease...

IIRC , it's 7 MM hose and must be Diesel rated , regular hose will
soften and leak in a few months .

DO NOT touch the park brake cable ! jack up and block the rear
wheels , remove and look for the hole in the center of the hub , it's
about the diameter of your little finger , on the left side you
position it to 10:00 and peer in with a flashlight , there's a star
shaped thing turned sideways so you can get the tip of a big flat
screwdriver under it's tips and rotate it _down_ until you feel the
hub not turning freely , reverse the star's rotation one or two tips
until the hub just begins to turn freely with _NO_ drag or faint
scraping sound whatsoever . follow the same deal on the right side
and your park brake will be *perfect* until the next time someone
drives off without releasing it . as you turn the star , it *should*
click into place but sometimes the holding spring is broken or packed
full of brake dust .

The _are_ clear pix of this in the DVD shop manual and I think in the
Haynes / Clymer Books Of Lies .

-Nate
Jeff wrote:
>
> Well I got it running. I had to get the battery charger on it and
> charge the battery overnight. I did use long cranks to get it
finally
> started. I do have a braided fuel line coming out of the tank.
What
> size fuel hose is on a 300D?
>
> My next repairs are:
> fix the exhaust(I took the transmission/exhaust hanger off and from
> there back the pipe and muffler fell off.)
> Emergency brake cable adjustment
> shifter grommet replacement
>
> Its been fun! Thanks for the help.
> Jeff



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Unwanted Critters Under The House

Try lutefisk - why don't you :-P .

/KJ

vwnate1 wrote:
> I don't have Norwigans but a _skunk_ seems to have taken up residence
> underneath my bedroom window , he comes by every night around 03:15 and
> the stink wakes me up ~ I'm not stupid enough to go out with a
> flashlight and garden hose , what is the best way to get rid of this
> critter ? .
>
> TIA ,
>
> -Nate
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Unwanted Critters Under The House

Invite him in, close the doors, and go to a motel for 30 days - he will starve to death.

brian

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

I don't have Norwigans but a _skunk_ seems to have taken up residence
underneath my bedroom window , he comes by every night around 03:15 and
the stink wakes me up ~ I'm not stupid enough to go out with a
flashlight and garden hose , what is the best way to get rid of this
critter ? .

TIA ,

-Nate




brian from la verne, ca


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Unwanted Critters Under The House

make a barrel trap, so, you can seal him in when he's caught.
Then,
you can make the decision of euthanasia or 'catch and release', the latter
is especially fun if you have someone you want to play a prank
on............

Live cage type traps allow them to spray still........
death traps allow for spray..........
Not much scares them, without spraying.....
shooting them, they spray quite often anyway..........

ask me how I know these things..........

good luck
Henry


----- Original Message -----
From: "vwnate1" <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:43 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Unwanted Critters Under The House

I don't have Norwigans but a _skunk_ seems to have taken up residence
underneath my bedroom window , he comes by every night around 03:15 and
the stink wakes me up ~ I'm not stupid enough to go out with a
flashlight and garden hose , what is the best way to get rid of this
critter ? .

TIA ,

-Nate



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[diesel_mercedes] Unwanted Critters Under The House

I don't have Norwigans but a _skunk_ seems to have taken up residence
underneath my bedroom window , he comes by every night around 03:15 and
the stink wakes me up ~ I'm not stupid enough to go out with a
flashlight and garden hose , what is the best way to get rid of this
critter ? .

TIA ,

-Nate


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Tire Pressure - Can't Fill When Cold

Harry,
Just raise the air pressure on the compressor governor to 130 lbs. When the air dryer discharges, you will loose 5 lbs on the discharge. Then you will have 125 lbs to air up your tires. Chuck B

Jim Rappe <ua40j@yahoo.com> wrote:
>snip
> but should I pull in and
> add 5 pounds to the tire anyway to make up for the deficit I knew I
> had an hour earlier when the tires were cold.
>

Harry, I can only offer up what I do in that situation. I put the
5lbs (or whatever I need) in when I can....UNLESS it takes me over the
Max inflation pressure on the sidewall. This isn't normally a problem
on my drive axle, but I can have this issue on my front axle which is
running near max.

At first opportunity though, especially if there is a big temperature
swing, I adjust when the tire is cold.

Jim


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: '68 220D ** PICTURES OF SOPHIA-

Oooooo - she's a sweetie for sure .

There's a Mercedes of this model for sale near me ,I have no idea if
it's a Diesel or not , white paint , not thst cherry but nice looking
I'll stop in and find the details if anyone's interested , it's in
Pasadena , Ca.

-Nate
Ctnthia Wrote :

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/browse/d16
f?b=1
> >
> > If this doesn't work the name of the album is "1968 220D Sophia"
> >
>


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: fuel filter woes

Jeff ;

Buy _ONLY_ the correct Metric size hose from a Foreign partshaus or
any Mercedes shop or dealer , you'll be far ahead for it , DO NOT use
screw typ hose clamps ! re - use your originals . if they're gone
missing , pay the $2.50 for the correct ones or go to Pick-A-Part ,
the best ones are all covered in grease...

IIRC , it's 7 MM hose and must be Diesel rated , regular hose will
soften and leak in a few months .

DO NOT touch the park brake cable ! jack up and block the rear
wheels , remove and look for the hole in the center of the hub , it's
about the diameter of your little finger , on the left side you
position it to 10:00 and peer in with a flashlight , there's a star
shaped thing turned sideways so you can get the tip of a big flat
screwdriver under it's tips and rotate it _down_ until you feel the
hub not turning freely , reverse the star's rotation one or two tips
until the hub just begins to turn freely with _NO_ drag or faint
scraping sound whatsoever . follow the same deal on the right side
and your park brake will be *perfect* until the next time someone
drives off without releasing it . as you turn the star , it *should*
click into place but sometimes the holding spring is broken or packed
full of brake dust .

The _are_ clear pix of this in the DVD shop manual and I think in the
Haynes / Clymer Books Of Lies .

-Nate
Jeff wrote:
>
> Well I got it running. I had to get the battery charger on it and
> charge the battery overnight. I did use long cranks to get it
finally
> started. I do have a braided fuel line coming out of the tank.
What
> size fuel hose is on a 300D?
>
> My next repairs are:
> fix the exhaust(I took the transmission/exhaust hanger off and from
> there back the pipe and muffler fell off.)
> Emergency brake cable adjustment
> shifter grommet replacement
>
> Its been fun! Thanks for the help.
> Jeff


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] '68 220D ** PICTURES OF SOPHIA- FINALLY

Who is that very good looking woman standing by the fender?

brian

"cyn.rose" <cyn.rose@gmail.com> wrote:
I am finally putting up some pictures of Sophia.  These are from last July when we were in a "pre 1970's" car show helping to promote/represent BioDiesel for the So. Cal. BioDiesel Co-Op.  It was fun, Sophia really loved the attention.
WOW were there some beautiful cars at that show!!  

I have been waiting to post till I got some interior pics but this will have to do for now.
Thanks all!
Cynthia & Sophia
'68 220D

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/browse/d16f?b=1

If this doesn't work the name of the album is "1968 220D Sophia" 



brian from la verne, ca


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Used transmission needed for a 1977 240D.

Lawrence ;

The model information you need to post is on a tag near the pan gasket
seperation line , post that up so folks can refer to it when looking at
thier used trannies .

-Nate
Lawrence wrote:
>
> If anyone has a used Mercedes 240D automatic transmission for sale
please
> contact me. Lawrence Rhodes primobassoon@...
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: FUNGUS (Diesel Slime)

Yes well ;

You can add one whole bottle of Startron to kill the fungus then keep
on adding it per fillup to retard it's re - formation , unless you
run the tank down to 1/4 or less , it'll take _forever_ to get it all
out .

I keep having black fuel that looks like coffee and tiny chunks of
God knows what , in my intake screen but every time I remove the fuel
tank screen , it is clean as a whistle so I think that maybe a lot of
fuel being sold has fungus allready growing in it...

Bummer , that .

-Nate
Rich wrote:
>
> I'm halfway through my second big jug of Startron and I'm still
> mining black goop in my prefilter...I buy them by the dozen now.
> And just changed the tank screen for the second time... totally
> caked with same. I could feel a lot of spunge in the tank while
the
> screen was out.
>
> Starting with the second jug, I upped my per-tank dose to 8oz and
> the filter loaded up faster.
>
> I only hope the stuff isn't just continuing to grow in the tank as
> fast as it's coming out.
>
> Rich


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: " NateLand "

My rescue mutts seem to like it.... they're forever crawling under my
truck or what not and getting all greasy , " Gizmo " likes to climb up
on my Mercedes but none of the other vehicles back there .

-Nate
Rich wrote:
>
> Nateland?!
>
> Is that anything like "doggie heaven"?
>
> Rich


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[Diesel-RVs] HWH Active Air

Folks,

Anyone out there have first hand experience with HWH Active Air? This
topic came up some time ago and there were listers considering the
upgrade. On a side note, BlueBird Wanderlodge is using AA in their new
2009 motorcoach. I haven't driven the new bird; consequently, I can't
comment on AA's performance.

Thanks,
David Brady
'02 BlueBird, LXi

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Newbie requests info 300SDL 1987

WELCOME ! this is a freindly group so _please_ , sign your name or '
handle ' to each post that way you'll get more and better replies .

Engine oil drainplug : 13 MM , use only a box wrench or socket ,
you'll prolly find the hex is all rounded so a 6 point is best .

Lots of different places to buy oil filters OnLine or even your local
Kraken/Shucks/Pep Bpys etc. when on sale , new drain plug washers
should come with each new filter , always loosen the oil filter
cannister and raise the lid 1/4" before you begin jacking up the car
so it'll have plenty of time to drain out .

There's vacuum lines passing over the oil filter cannister , if you
knock them loose the engine won't shut off later , no biggie , be
ready for it .

Tranny drain plug I forget but the Torque Converter has a nifty 5 MM
allen drain screw , turh the crank by the bolt in the middle of the
crank pulley to line up the drain plug in the window in the bottom
center of the bell housing . Dexron fluid , be _VERY_ careful about
cleaning around the filler before you remove the dipstick and
consider using a funnel with a screen in it . DO NOT overfill ! .

Always change lubricants when _HOT_ , not just warm .

Coolant , use either Ma 'Benz coolant if you're rich or ZEREX brand
(that's what Mercedes Benx N.A. sells) if you're like the rest of us .

Look in the files section of the home page for this group for info
on " Diesel Purge " and other service you can do @ home , better &
cheaper than any shop *if* you're mechanically minded ~ these are
simple cars .

Your Mercedes Dealer will sell you the factory shop manual on a DVD
for $20.00 , be wary of E-Bay rip off copies . Clymer manual is
helpful but some errors and not comprehensive , Chilton , well I hope
you have a bird cage .

Owner's manual is a *must* , buy it and _READ_ it as it's chock full
of daily use info that'll make your ownership of this fine car vastly
easier and better .

-Nate
"vvjk" ?? WHO ?? wrote:
>
> Hi if there is a FAQ page covering this please let me know.
>
> I just purchased a 1987 300 SDL in pretty good cosmetic condition,
> runs quite well.
>
> At some point of time I will need to do oil changes, filter changes,
> transmission fluid, coolant etc.
>
> Here are some basic questions:
>
> 1. Where is the drain plug located. What size wrench is needed to
> remove it.
>
> 2. Is there any recommended sources of buying filters and the like
on
> the Internet. Any gotchas?
>
> 3.What type of transmission fluid is recommended? Dexron ?
>
> 4. What type of coolant is recommended? Prestone, Dexcool,
something
> else?
>
> Thank you in advance.
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Lutkefiske

Amazingly , I had several buddies who live in Minnesota and they not
only eat that crap , they claim to _like_ it ! .

-Nate
Tom wrote:
>
>
> Is that anything like Lutkefiske?
>
> Tom
>
> Max writes:
>
> Do you guys eat Ludafish? (I'm sure I spelled this wrong). Max
>


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Transmission gives up. What will it cost me?

Max ;

The deal is : you never know how good or bad a used tranny is ~ even if
you adjust the front band and service the filter etc. , it may still be
DOA or fail in a short time .

My first Diesel Coupe came to me with a " Rebuilt tranny " ~ the fluid
smelled bad so I serviced it and looked into the stack of receipts that
came with the car , turns out it was a junkyard tranny and the lazy
bastids didn't even bother to change the fluid much less adjust the
band etc. , lucky for me , it shifted O.K. and didn't leak much - he'd
been charged like $1,200.00 for the job too .

Unless it's under $1,000.00 installed , I'd pass on the used tranny
gamble and you all know I'm a gambling man who uses lots of junkyard
parts ~ pushing one of these beasts to the side of the road , is no
fun .

-Nate
Max wrote:
> > Speaking of Mercedes automatic transmissions, I was wondering about
> putting a used one (that has been in a dead car for years) into a
> running car. I was advised by a good local mechanic(not Mercedes)
that ,
> that could be a bad idea because after sitting for years, seals or
> gaskets can stiffen and shrink and then leak. What do you pros think
> about this thinking? Max
>
> >
> >
>



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[Diesel-RVs] Crossfires (was Re:Realtime tire inflation systems)

I put 100 pound units on mine.

99 Adventurer 34V 275 Cummins

Mike & Debbie Grossie Lubbock, TX
mdgrossie53@yahoo.com
www.grossie.net


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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Tire Pressure - Can't Fill When Cold

I am guessing you have enough storage room in your basement

to put a compressor in there. I bought a 20 gal compressor, hooked

it up to my 110V power and use it as needed. That makes me independent

from any truck stop and in combination with my pressure monitor I can

keep the tire pressure in the green at all times no matter where I am.

My two cents.

Joerg (1998 HD Rambler Imperial)

_____

From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bob Clerc
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 11:13 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Tire Pressure - Can't Fill When Cold

harryyoungii wrote:
> So here is a question that has been bugging me forever: I wake up in
> the morning and my tire pressure is down five pounds (hypothetically),
> but I have no way to add five pounds before I drive 40 miles. By that
> time the pressure reads fine due to heating, but should I pull in and
> add 5 pounds to the tire anyway to make up for the deficit I knew I
> had an hour earlier when the tires were cold.
>

My opinion--If you are in an area where temp swing early AM to the rest
of the day are 30-40 degree range, you have a problem. My practice is to
leave it alone and drive on. If you are 5 PSI down and the temp is
anywhere near what you expect for the day, add 5 PSI at the next truck
stop. Of course, while 5 PSI down is not a serious problem, the proper
pressure should be regained. But I'm sure you have more significant loss
in mind.

Bob Clerc
@ Norco, CA

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting

......Well, we tried the lutefisk trick and the raccoons went away, but now
we've got a family of Norwegians living under our house! ..........

hahahahaaahhh
hahahaaaaaaaahhhhhaa

Oh, that's a beauty.

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl Järnhammer" <jernhammer@ystad.nu>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 12:20 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting


Max wrote:
> ygmir111 wrote:
>
> Do you guys eat Ludafish? (I'm sure I spelled this wrong). Max
/Well, we tried the lutefisk trick and the raccoons went away, but now
we've got a family of Norwegians living under our house!/


Lutefisk

Lutefisk (on the upper left side of the plate) as served in a Norwegian
restaurant, with potatoes, mashed peas, and bacon.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Lutefisk.jpg>

<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Lutefisk.jpg>
Lutefisk (on the upper left side of the plate) as served in a Norwegian
restaurant, with potatoes, mashed peas, and bacon.

*Lutefisk (lutfisk)* (pronounced <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:IPA>
[l??t?f?sk] in Norway <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norway>, [l??tf?sk]
in Sweden <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweden> and the Swedish-speaking
areas in Finland <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finland> (/lipeäkala/ in
Finnish <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finnish>)) is a traditional dish
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recipe> of the Nordic countries
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordic_countries> made from stockfish
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stockfish> (air-dried whitefish
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitefish_%28fisheries_term%29>) and soda
lye <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide> (/lut/). Its name
literally means "lye <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lye> fish
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish>", owing to the fact that it is made
with caustic soda <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caustic_soda> or potash
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potash> lye.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lutefisk

Best wishes
KJ


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> Max wrote:
> ygmir111 wrote:
> Do you guys eat Ludafish? (I'm sure I spelled this wrong). MaxWell, we
> tried the lutefisk trick and the raccoons went away, but now we've got a
> family of Norwegians living under our house!
> Lutefisk
>
>
> Lutefisk (on the upper left side of the plate) as served in a Norwegian
> restaurant, with potatoes, mashed peas, and bacon.
> Lutefisk (lutfisk) (pronounced [l??t?f?sk] in Norway, [l??tf?sk] in Sweden
> and the Swedish-speaking areas in Finland (lipeäkala in Finnish)) is a
> traditional dish of the Nordic countries made from stockfish (air-dried
> whitefish) and soda lye (lut). Its name literally means "lye fish", owing
> to the fact that it is made with caustic soda or potash lye.
>
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lutefisk
>
> Best wishes
> KJ
>
>


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