Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

Ben,

Biodiesel is reputed to be a good cleaner.   MMO is also great.  I would use biodiesel to do most of the cleaning and then MMO to finish up.  Weird note - I recently found MMO in a spray can.  I didn't know what to use it for - now I do - thanks.

SVO is rumored to be bad news in the sump - it gels.  I think biodiesel would be less likely to cause problems.  But that extra oil change would still be a good idea.

Bobby

On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 11:15 PM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:
 

Thanks Bobby.  Appreciate the intel.  Got the *&^%ing starter off the donor today also.  Since I have that whole side open I figured I'd better deal with that thing now.  Taking it in to get rebuilt tomorrow.  Head is off and soaking in a nice biodiesel bath as I type.  Gonna be nice and tidy to take to the machine shop.  Doing some research on actually using biodiesel on the block and piston tops to do exactly what you're talking about.  Get it nice and clean for the head when it comes back.  If some biodiesel gets past the rings you'd think a quick oil change after reassembly would take care of it.  What's the difference between that and MMO or any of the others?  Then again I don't want to tempt fate and really f it up.

 

Ben near Detroit.

 

 

 

 

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Yates Emory
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 9:28 PM


To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

 

Ben,

On non MB, I have found them to be pretty tough, so you can be pretty aggressive with a scraper or an old screwdriver.  I don't know if it is still available, but there used to be scrappers that were made for this.  They looked like about 5 or 6 heavy wires side by side, bent around into a shape that made a handle.

Try to be careful not to let the bits you scrape off to fall down inside the engine.

Most of the de-carbonizing you are doing will be on the pistons, but also check the top deck of the block to make sure it is really smooth so the head gasket will seal properly.

Bobby

On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 9:35 AM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:

 

With ya 200% Bobby.  What is a good way to get the carbon off the pistons without creating more problems?

 

Thanks!

 

Ben near Detroit.

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Yates Emory
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 12:58 AM

Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

 

Ben,

No experience with MB heads, but:

I would remove the glow plug chambers and try to clean them.  If they do not clean up, I would replace them.

I would replace all the glow pugs while it is easy.

I would clean all the carbon off the head and try to figure a way to test the valves (If you don't have a better way - turn the head so the ports are up, pour gasoline in each port, and see if the gas leaks out.)

I would clean all the carbon off the pistons, but be careful not to get the carbon bits into the engine.

Lots of work - good luck.

Bobby

On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 7:11 PM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:

 

Well got the head off the donor car today (recall needing to R&R the head on a 1979 W116 300SD). First time doing this so...

If the experts would care to gander at the photos and give me their feedback, I'd be ever so grateful!

http://picasaweb.google.com/116318077355015592300/300SDHeadTurboRedux#

Ben near Detroit




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Diesel newbie question on mid-80s diesel

 


All the wonderful benefits of driving old Mercedes Diesels are not apparent on a " Baby Benz " ~ this doesn't mean it's not a nice car , just that you old Volvo will prolly be cheaper & easier .

Of course , if you find an older , pre 1985 Mercedes Diesel , prepare
to surrender to the addiction....

I'd not give over $1,000 for that 190D .

Nate
Matt wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I've got a good neighbor (& friend), who has been vacillating on whether he's going to sell his 1986 190d 2.5 with a 5-speed manual transmission and a truckload of miles -- 285,000. I think he's going to sell it, and has offered it to me. I'm probably going to buy, but am looking for some pre-buy advice.
>
> First, is this a good (not trouble-prone) engine/transmission combination? It must be, as the car seems to run well with nearly 300,000 miles... Is there anything I should out for specifically upon inspection? What would be a fair "good neighbor" price?
>
> Secondly, can someone explain the draw of these diesels? I'm almost assuredly going to buy the car, so maybe I'll figure it out as I drive, but right now the benefits elude me. At first, I thought these cars would be extremely long-lived, which they are (obviously), but they also seem to require a lot of maintenance to get there. My gas Volvo 740 (with an equal level of maintenance) will likely reach 400,000; it already has 292,000 and runs great. Then I thought they'd be incredibly fuel efficient, which they are as well, but with the price of diesel being higher than gas, that benefit is mitigated to a large extent. Finally, diesels are not quicker or more powerful. They might be easier to work on, but my Volvo is pretty easy and straight-forward already. then you've got the added "difficulties" of cold starts, finding diesel, etc.
>
> I'm not trying to alter anyone's opinion of diesels. I'm sincerely wondering what the draw is! Any insight would be appreciated to clarify it in my own mind's eye.
>
> Warmest regards,
> Matt
>

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[diesel_mercedes] xlation - Re: '84 300 SD: Wanted: driver/passgr locks w/ key (or at least VIN

 


O.K. Barton ;

Go get a cheap spare outside door handle and take the lock cylinder out of it , take that and your ignition key to the local locksmith and ask him to make the cylinder match they key ~ this should be $40 if he's honest , if he hesitates in any way , leave and find another locksmith .

This is the easy way IMO , gets you back to square one where you belong as the ign. key still matches the VIN.....

I had this done to the trunk lock of my old red Coupe when the original one died .

I need to have it done to my other red Coupe's trunk lock as it's also dying and hard to get the key to unlock it .

BTW :I had *no* trouble understanding your initial request for matching door handles & trunk lock with key...

-Nate
Barton wrote:
>
> oops - I see how this thread needs some more context to execute..
>
> so....the car came with the following key/lock "features"..
>
> 2x ignition keys that start the car and match the vin of the car it starts
>
> 2x trunk keys that fit the rear trunk and is my only means of locking anything
> valuable in the car at present and may or may not match the VIN of Sylvia
> but probably not and only the PO or the PPO (or their mechanic(s) might know).
>
> 1x drvr/pax door key and 2x salvage locks/tumblers installed by PO who
> doesn't know VIN ofthe car those locks
>
> As sold, the car came to me w/ two rings of keys:
>
> Ring 1: Ignition key #1 + the drv/pax door key + trunk key #1
>
> Ring 2: Ignition key #2 + trunk key #2
>
> Rumored to be lost forever in the den of inequity that is my garage and first
> floor basement is Ring 1, with now no way to lock the doors and no VIN to tell
> Mercedes how to recut the keys for that lock. Prevailing domestic theory is that
> the keys somehow fell into the black hole from which the gear selector emanates
> and they are slowly settling their way into the bowels of the car. If anyone has
> lost something in there before and knows how to retrieve it, or even how big that
> space is, please expound forthwith. I have proved with bright light and see nothing
> but really long for one of those fiber optic cameras on a flexistick for just such an occasion.
>
> Previous queries to this forum have indicated that in the case of Mercedes
> keys, unless you either have a copy of the key or the VIN # of the car the
> key was delivered with, one is SOL w/r/t to getting a key cut for that lock
> for a fair buck (given any motivated locksmith could probably cut a key
> given full access to the tumbler/mechanism).
>
> As before, if you gots 'em, I need 'em.
>
> 1984 300SD
> 2x lock cylinders (drvr/pax doors)
> 1x working (ideally original) matching key
>
> cheers,
>
> -Barton
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Head experts...your insight please

 


O.K. , # 1 looks like it's been burning a bit of oil , # 2 cylinder looks to be scored a little bit .

Junkyard testing tip : turn cam until both valves have clearance and position the head so the ports are facing _up_ , have good light on the combustion chamber and use a squirt bottle full of gasoline to fill the ports , beginning with the intake port each time , it no leakage around the valve , it's fine , 100 % good to go . if some seeping & wetness appears around the valve after a while , it's maginal , plan on valve re facing soon but should still run O.K. .

See a droplet of gas running out ? the valve & seat are burned and must be repaired before re assembly .

This test works really well when buying used heads in junkyards etc.

I hope my Farm / Used Car /Junkyard methods don't offend anyone ,this is how it is done in the real world .

-Nate
Ben wrote:
>
> Well got the head off the donor car today (recall needing to R&R the head on a 1979 W116 300SD). First time doing this so...
>
> If the experts would care to gander at the photos and give me their feedback, I'd be ever so grateful!
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/116318077355015592300/300SDHeadTurboRedux#
>
> Ben near Detroit
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: '84 300 SD: Wanted: driver/passgr locks w/ key (or at least VIN of car)

 


Just take your registration to the Mercedes Dealer and they'll order you up some , $20.00 each if he's honest , I got dinged for $30 once .

Takes three days & they'll fit like new because , well , you know .

Or , try The Classic Center .

-Nate
Barton wrote:
>
> As part of a New Year's resolution to stop hanging on to useless stuff, I'm giving up on finding the keys somehow "lost" (although the car made it back to the house with that set of keys) that lock and unlock Sylvia. If anyone has these and wants to sell or trade cor anything I have for this car or can obtain on your next PAP run, I will pay fair dollar - more for keys and locks, but still fair money for the effort.
>
> These things do not exist in local PAP's (we call 'em junkyards, but that's no nevermind anyways).
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Barton
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

You could drop your oil pan now and put a bucket underneath.
 
brian from la verne, ca


From: bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, January 9, 2011 8:15:15 PM
Subject: RE: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

Thanks Bobby.  Appreciate the intel.  Got the *&^%ing starter off the donor today also.  Since I have that whole side open I figured I'd better deal with that thing now.  Taking it in to get rebuilt tomorrow.  Head is off and soaking in a nice biodiesel bath as I type.  Gonna be nice and tidy to take to the machine shop.  Doing some research on actually using biodiesel on the block and piston tops to do exactly what you're talking about.  Get it nice and clean for the head when it comes back.  If some biodiesel gets past the rings you'd think a quick oil change after reassembly would take care of it.  What's the difference between that and MMO or any of the others?  Then again I don't want to tempt fate and really f it up.

 

Ben near Detroit .

 

 

 

 

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Bobby Yates Emory
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 9:28 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

 

Ben,

On non MB, I have found them to be pretty tough, so you can be pretty aggressive with a scraper or an old screwdriver.  I don't know if it is still available, but there used to be scrappers that were made for this.  They looked like about 5 or 6 heavy wires side by side, bent around into a shape that made a handle.

Try to be careful not to let the bits you scrape off to fall down inside the engine.

Most of the de-carbonizing you are doing will be on the pistons, but also check the top deck of the block to make sure it is really smooth so the head gasket will seal properly.

Bobby

On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 9:35 AM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:

 

With ya 200% Bobby.  What is a good way to get the carbon off the pistons without creating more problems?

 

Thanks!

 

Ben near Detroit .

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Yates Emory
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 12:58 AM

Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

 

Ben,

No experience with MB heads, but:

I would remove the glow plug chambers and try to clean them.  If they do not clean up, I would replace them.

I would replace all the glow pugs while it is easy.

I would clean all the carbon off the head and try to figure a way to test the valves (If you don't have a better way - turn the head so the ports are up, pour gasoline in each port, and see if the gas leaks out.)

I would clean all the carbon off the pistons, but be careful not to get the carbon bits into the engine.

Lots of work - good luck.

Bobby

On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 7:11 PM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:

 

Well got the head off the donor car today (recall needing to R&R the head on a 1979 W116 300SD). First time doing this so...

If the experts would care to gander at the photos and give me their feedback, I'd be ever so grateful!

http://picasaweb.google.com/116318077355015592300/300SDHeadTurboRedux

Ben near Detroit




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Diesel newbie question on mid-80s diesel

 

Matt,

You should drive this car and see how you like it. See if it has enough power to get you around (no turbo).
I haven't driven the 190D, yet my '85 300D drives much nicer then my wives '86 240 Volvo, as well as the seating position.
What shape is this car in? A well taken care of MB, is great, a beater will cost you to keep it going.
That said, yes, any 20+ yr old car will need some maintenance and repairs. 285K is a decent amount of miles too. Has anything been done to it like: suspension, steering, radiator etc? The fuel cost can be a factor, yet if you get 10 more miles to a gallon, then it's a better deal. No smog checks needed. Cold starts? Where are you? If someplace cold, I'll let others chime in.

1986-89 190D 2.5/  4-cyl. diesel, 93hp

Rob
'85 300D
Garden Grove, CA
==

On 1/9/11 7:43 PM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote: 

Diesel newbie question on mid-80s diesel     Posted by: "mattnmason" mattnmason@yahoo.com mattnmason     Date: Sun Jan 9, 2011 7:43 pm ((PST))  Hi all,  I've got a good neighbor (& friend), who has been vacillating on whether he's going to sell his 1986 190d 2.5 with a 5-speed manual transmission and a truckload of miles -- 285,000. I think he's going to sell it, and has offered it to me. I'm probably going to buy, but am looking for some pre-buy advice.  First, is this a good (not trouble-prone) engine/transmission combination? It must be, as the car seems to run well with nearly 300,000 miles... Is there anything I should out for specifically upon inspection? What would be a fair "good neighbor" price?  Secondly, can someone explain the draw of these diesels? I'm almost assuredly going to buy the car, so maybe I'll figure it out as I drive, but right now the benefits elude me. At first, I thought these cars would be extremely long-lived, which they are (obviously), but they also seem to require a lot of maintenance to get there. My gas Volvo 740 (with an equal level of maintenance) will likely reach 400,000; it already has 292,000 and runs great. Then I thought they'd be incredibly fuel efficient, which they are as well, but with the price of diesel being higher than gas, that benefit is mitigated to a large extent. Finally, diesels are not quicker or more powerful. They might be easier to work on, but my Volvo is pretty easy and straight-forward already. then you've got the added "difficulties" of cold starts, finding diesel, etc.  I'm not trying to alter anyone's opinion of diesels. I'm sincerely wondering what the draw is! Any insight would be appreciated to clarify it in my own mind's eye.  Warmest regards, Matt

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

For those that don’t know about the million and one uses of biodiesel, Google “biodiesel parts wash” or “biodiesel parts cleaner”.  See what pops up.

 

Ben near Detroit

 

 

 

From: bgiovan [mailto:bgiovan@cavtel.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 11:15 PM
To: 'diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

Thanks Bobby.  Appreciate the intel.  Got the *&^%ing starter off the donor today also.  Since I have that whole side open I figured I’d better deal with that thing now.  Taking it in to get rebuilt tomorrow.  Head is off and soaking in a nice biodiesel bath as I type.  Gonna be nice and tidy to take to the machine shop.  Doing some research on actually using biodiesel on the block and piston tops to do exactly what you’re talking about.  Get it nice and clean for the head when it comes back.  If some biodiesel gets past the rings you’d think a quick oil change after reassembly would take care of it.  What’s the difference between that and MMO or any of the others?  Then again I don’t want to tempt fate and really f it up.

 

Ben near Detroit.

 

 

 

 

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Yates Emory
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 9:28 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

 

Ben,

On non MB, I have found them to be pretty tough, so you can be pretty aggressive with a scraper or an old screwdriver.  I don't know if it is still available, but there used to be scrappers that were made for this.  They looked like about 5 or 6 heavy wires side by side, bent around into a shape that made a handle.

Try to be careful not to let the bits you scrape off to fall down inside the engine.

Most of the de-carbonizing you are doing will be on the pistons, but also check the top deck of the block to make sure it is really smooth so the head gasket will seal properly.

Bobby

On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 9:35 AM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:

 

With ya 200% Bobby.  What is a good way to get the carbon off the pistons without creating more problems?

 

Thanks!

 

Ben near Detroit.

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Yates Emory
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 12:58 AM

Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

 

Ben,

No experience with MB heads, but:

I would remove the glow plug chambers and try to clean them.  If they do not clean up, I would replace them.

I would replace all the glow pugs while it is easy.

I would clean all the carbon off the head and try to figure a way to test the valves (If you don't have a better way - turn the head so the ports are up, pour gasoline in each port, and see if the gas leaks out.)

I would clean all the carbon off the pistons, but be careful not to get the carbon bits into the engine.

Lots of work - good luck.

Bobby

On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 7:11 PM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:

 

Well got the head off the donor car today (recall needing to R&R the head on a 1979 W116 300SD). First time doing this so...

If the experts would care to gander at the photos and give me their feedback, I'd be ever so grateful!

http://picasaweb.google.com/116318077355015592300/300SDHeadTurboRedux#

Ben near Detroit




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

Thanks Bobby.  Appreciate the intel.  Got the *&^%ing starter off the donor today also.  Since I have that whole side open I figured I’d better deal with that thing now.  Taking it in to get rebuilt tomorrow.  Head is off and soaking in a nice biodiesel bath as I type.  Gonna be nice and tidy to take to the machine shop.  Doing some research on actually using biodiesel on the block and piston tops to do exactly what you’re talking about.  Get it nice and clean for the head when it comes back.  If some biodiesel gets past the rings you’d think a quick oil change after reassembly would take care of it.  What’s the difference between that and MMO or any of the others?  Then again I don’t want to tempt fate and really f it up.

 

Ben near Detroit.

 

 

 

 

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Yates Emory
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 9:28 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

 

Ben,

On non MB, I have found them to be pretty tough, so you can be pretty aggressive with a scraper or an old screwdriver.  I don't know if it is still available, but there used to be scrappers that were made for this.  They looked like about 5 or 6 heavy wires side by side, bent around into a shape that made a handle.

Try to be careful not to let the bits you scrape off to fall down inside the engine.

Most of the de-carbonizing you are doing will be on the pistons, but also check the top deck of the block to make sure it is really smooth so the head gasket will seal properly.

Bobby

On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 9:35 AM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:

 

With ya 200% Bobby.  What is a good way to get the carbon off the pistons without creating more problems?

 

Thanks!

 

Ben near Detroit.

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Yates Emory
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 12:58 AM

Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Head experts...your insight please

 

 

Ben,

No experience with MB heads, but:

I would remove the glow plug chambers and try to clean them.  If they do not clean up, I would replace them.

I would replace all the glow pugs while it is easy.

I would clean all the carbon off the head and try to figure a way to test the valves (If you don't have a better way - turn the head so the ports are up, pour gasoline in each port, and see if the gas leaks out.)

I would clean all the carbon off the pistons, but be careful not to get the carbon bits into the engine.

Lots of work - good luck.

Bobby

On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 7:11 PM, bgiovan <bgiovan@cavtel.net> wrote:

 

Well got the head off the donor car today (recall needing to R&R the head on a 1979 W116 300SD). First time doing this so...

If the experts would care to gander at the photos and give me their feedback, I'd be ever so grateful!

http://picasaweb.google.com/116318077355015592300/300SDHeadTurboRedux#

Ben near Detroit




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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