Diesel RVs: 01/20/08

[diesel_mercedes] Re: 240D vacuum Pump Rebuild

Time to try Brian's tip :

Go to Performance Parts and click on thier catalog , then find the "
parts by diagram " link and give that a try....

-Nate
Steve wrote:
>
> I purchased a vacuum rebuild kit for my '81 240D and do not
remember
> how it came a part. Does anyone have any rebuild documentation
handy?
> I would really appreciate it.
>
>
> Thanx,
>
> Steve
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 13 degrees starting

Good deal , next time try removing the intake bellows and blowing the
hot air directly into the intake as you crank it , that should do the
trick .

Remember the powdered graphite or Chrysler Heat Riser solvent in the
key locks so you don't get froze out .

-Nate
Nate wrote:
>
> Well once again L.A. Nate helped me out.She refused to start.But
with
> the $10. hair dryer Nate told me about.5 minutes of heating the
> head,and intake.She fired right up.That extra ground to the
> engine,turned that motor over so fast.
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: salt cracking

Sounds good , keep us posted .

Watch out for those revenuers tho' ~ they want folks to pay taxes on
hommade fuels ~ can't be competing with EXXON .

-=Nate
Nate Rector wrote:
>
> It has worked.Going to filter and taste the fuel.Small scale
experiment with new oil.If this works it will be a much cheaper way to
process fuel.
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: ot: free F-600 cab and chassis

Well phooey ~

He passed on it as he's moving .

Good thing I no longer live on an old farm else I'd drag it home along
with all manner of old junkers .

-Nate

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Frozen water pipe!

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "John Harrison" <john@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the great advice. I did get the water running again
and at this point it looks like there was no damage. Lesson
learned. Will be more careful going forward.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> John

Even with heated bays, etc., it is always a good idea to keep the
cabinet doors slightly open at night to allow warm air to circulate
to the pipes there. Otherwise, it can get awfully cold in there in
the dark!

The alternative is to start the engine, disconnect everything, and
turn the coach until the compass reads South, then drive in that
direction until the water thaws.

Ken Molloy
1994 Allegro Bay 37' DP and no toad
5.9 l Cummins 230hp w/Allison M-3060
averagine 11.3 mpg this year at 65 mpg
Hayward, CA

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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

Paul,
Same here on our 04 Windsor. It came a factory installed option. We are 3 months reaching having the coach 4 years. It sure has saved the front of the coach from bug and road debris hits. Chuck B

Paul Rider <afchap@mindspring.com> wrote:
We have 3M vinyl shield on the front of our '03. We had it put on when we
bought the coach 4 1/2 years ago. There are no "stains" from bug mashes etc.
There are a few rock dings, but not that many. We have no complaints with
our 3M shield, and absolutely would buy it again!

Paul ... fulltimin'
'03 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40e
'00 Honda Odyssey toad
KE5LXU, Escapees, FMCA, SMART, WIT
http://afchap.home.mindspring.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen Barrett
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 8:19 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

I've had diamond shield on two coaches, one I removed because it was a mess
on 2001 Dutch Star (gravel trucks, sand trucks, love bugs-Florida,
butterflies-texas and assorted other debris that hits it and squashes or
mashes on it or otherwise stains) -- it took a lot of careful trying to
remove it -- very careful and time consuming and can be costly if you have
to repaint the front of a coach....

so, the original cost (estimated $1000 or therabouts) just to put on Diamond
Shield that may become a disasterous mess, doesn't sound real good to people
who have had our experience.

It's on the coach we have now and we need to "get it off" and am dreading
the process again.....(03 MountainAire Diesel) Still have photos of "before
and after" the removal from our 2001 Dutch Star we traded in ....
I had one motor home (Holiday Rambler) with no Diamond Shield, no Bra and no
mess ....
If you have a "bra" - don't know where you are but if near Lazy Days in
Florida/Tampa area, Wades RV services located inside Lazy Days make
sunscreens and stuff and put the very finest backing on bras and make them
to fit tight on front.....they don't wear your paint, but you do need to
remove if rains and let everything dry out...the only bad thing about a bra,
if you have generator and run it, the bra helps hold heat in and it can
blister paint around generator area.
personally, I'd just as soon not have any of it (bra, diamond shield
etc)...if keeping coach, can have repainted for less than $700 or 800 every
3 or 4 years if want to... (Man From Mars and other places can do for
reasonable price unless you got "50,000 color combos on front")

JimB
03 MountainAire DP
Polk City, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: "spike.kramer" <spike.kramer@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 5:09 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "noladiver" <noladiver@...> wrote:
>>You might consider Diamond Shield or one of the similiar products to
> protect the front of your coach. Maybe cheaper and less hassle in the
> long run.
>
> Spike
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>

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Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

Jim,
The only problem one might have using LSD in a ULSD engine is that if one has to pass a smog or emissions test to obtain tags or plates yearly, Damage to the particle filter will show up as would by passing the filter. Chuck B

JIM FLUCKEY <jflu653@cox.net> wrote:
After some cursory research I don't believe that there is any way use an
additive in your light truck motor. That said I also believe that LSD fuel
should not hurt your engine. The damage will be to the "cat" and the
particulate filter. I have heard horror stories of the cost to replace the
"cat" but I also know that the "cat" is supposed to light itself off every
so many cycles and burn out the particulates including any excessive sulfur.
I guess if you had to burn LSD on a regular basis I might figure out how to
divert my exhaust from going thru the "cat and trap". LSD in of itself in a
USLD engine will not hurt any internals, just the opposite, the extra
lubricity of the LSD should be beneficial to the engines Injectors and
pumps. Our older MH engines have just the opposite problem, what additive
,if any, should we add to keep our injectors and pumps lubed now we cant
rely on the sulfur anymore.
Jim & Sally Fluckey
2001 40' Allegro Bus
Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
----- Original Message -----
From: "ajon1a" <ajon1@msn.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 4:10 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

> Does anyone know if there is an additive that will allow you to burn
> low sulfur fuel in a engine that is made for ulsf. I want to drive
> into Mexico where the fuel is still the 500 ppm.
>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
>
>

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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[Diesel-RVs] Oil filter changing/draining (was Futomo Valve)

Thanks everyone for not telling me what an idiot I am.

Poke a hole in it. I knew there was some rocket science involved.

Jim in CO
'87 CC LTD (3208T)

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Things I'm Glad I Did

A cleaned up version of my previous post:

The pictures can be seen at

http://picasaweb.google.com/strbr1940/VinylPostRepair

I think I wrote the process up somewhere but it is a simple screwdriver, wrench, socket, knife (or razor blade) affair. Buy some matching vinyl at a fabric store, I used some 3M spray glue (or contact adhesive), some Acco fasteners. Took four hours for the first support post and 2 hours for the second post (probably 1 hour if you did it for a living). Not as difficult as changing an alternator.

brian

BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:

The pictures can be seen at

http://picasaweb.google.com/strbr1940/VinylPostRepair

I think I wrote the process up somewhere but it is a simple screwdriver, wrench, socket knife (or razor blade affair. But some matching vinyl at a fabric store, I sued some 3M spray glue (or contact adhesive), some Acco fasteners. Took four hours for the first post and 2 hours for the second post (probably 1 hour if you did it for a living).

brian

n61cm <jim@tazwade.com> wrote:

What is the fix for the vinyl door posts?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>> 8. Fixing the flapping, ugly vinyl on the door posts. A quick, easy,
> cheap fix once you get the hang of it.
>

brian from la verne, ca

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Things I'm Glad I Did

The pictures can be seen at

http://picasaweb.google.com/strbr1940/VinylPostRepair

I think I wrote the process up somewhere but it is a simple screwdriver, wrench, socket knife (or razor blade affair. But some matching vinyl at a fabric store, I sued some 3M spray glue (or contact adhesive), some Acco fasteners. Took four hours for the first post and 2 hours for the second post (probably 1 hour if you did it for a living).

brian

n61cm <jim@tazwade.com> wrote:

What is the fix for the vinyl door posts?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>> 8. Fixing the flapping, ugly vinyl on the door posts. A quick, easy,
> cheap fix once you get the hang of it.
>

brian from la verne, ca

Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. __._,_.___

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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

We have 3M vinyl shield on the front of our '03. We had it put on when we
bought the coach 4 1/2 years ago. There are no "stains" from bug mashes etc.
There are a few rock dings, but not that many. We have no complaints with
our 3M shield, and absolutely would buy it again!

Paul ... fulltimin'
'03 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40e
'00 Honda Odyssey toad
KE5LXU, Escapees, FMCA, SMART, WIT
http://afchap.home.mindspring.com

so, the original cost (estimated $1000 or therabouts) just to put on Diamond
Shield that may become a disasterous mess, doesn't sound real good to people
who have had our experience.

JimB
03 MountainAire DP
Polk City, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: "spike.kramer" <spike.kramer@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 5:09 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

After some cursory research I don't believe that there is any way use an
additive in your light truck motor. That said I also believe that LSD fuel
should not hurt your engine. The damage will be to the "cat" and the
particulate filter. I have heard horror stories of the cost to replace the
"cat" but I also know that the "cat" is supposed to light itself off every
so many cycles and burn out the particulates including any excessive sulfur.
I guess if you had to burn LSD on a regular basis I might figure out how to
divert my exhaust from going thru the "cat and trap". LSD in of itself in a
USLD engine will not hurt any internals, just the opposite, the extra
lubricity of the LSD should be beneficial to the engines Injectors and
pumps. Our older MH engines have just the opposite problem, what additive
,if any, should we add to keep our injectors and pumps lubed now we cant
rely on the sulfur anymore.
Jim & Sally Fluckey
2001 40' Allegro Bus
Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
----- Original Message -----
From: "ajon1a" <ajon1@msn.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 4:10 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

so, the original cost (estimated $1000 or therabouts) just to put on Diamond
Shield that may become a disasterous mess, doesn't sound real good to people
who have had our experience.

It's on the coach we have now and we need to "get it off" and am dreading
the process again.....(03 MountainAire Diesel)
Still have photos of "before and after" the removal from our 2001
Dutch Star we traded in ....
I had one motor home (Holiday Rambler) with no Diamond Shield, no Bra and no
mess ....
If you have a "bra" - don't know where you are but if near Lazy Days
in Florida/Tampa area, Wades RV services located inside Lazy Days make
sunscreens and stuff and put the very finest backing on bras and make them
to fit tight on front.....they don't wear your paint, but you do need to
remove if rains and let everything dry out...the only bad thing about a bra,
if you have generator and run it, the bra helps hold heat in and it can
blister paint around generator area.
personally, I'd just as soon not have any of it (bra, diamond shield
etc)...if keeping coach, can have repainted for less than $700 or 800 every
3 or 4 years if want to... (Man From Mars and other places can do for
reasonable price unless you got "50,000 color combos on front")

JimB
03 MountainAire DP
Polk City, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: "spike.kramer" <spike.kramer@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 5:09 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

--------------------------------------------
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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Thanks for all the great advice. I did get the water running again and at
this point it looks like there was no damage. Lesson learned. Will be more
careful going forward.

Thanks again.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of FLW300@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 2:33 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Hi John

What kind of rig? Does it have two furnaces? Sometimes only one furnace
heats the bays and you may need to run the other furnace.

I agree with Joerg's advice re putting a space heater in the bay where the
plumbing is located. Run the heater on Low to Medium. Once the pipes are
frozen, it will take a while to thaw them out.

Do you have a wireless thermometer you could put in the bay to see how cold
it's getting down there?

Maybe take a trip south for a few days to get thawed out??

Fred White 02 Windsor, 05 Pilot
Polk City, FL & Trenton, ME

In a message dated 1/20/2008 10:03:18 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
john@chicagoofficespace.com writes:

Help! I am in Ky, 12 degrees this am. When I tried to get water this
morning there was no water in the hot water line to the shower and no water
to the kitchen sink at all. Water is ok in the rest of the bathroom. I ran
the furnace all night thinking there would be no problem. I have heated
tanks and the temp was over 60 degrees in the RV this morning. What do I do
now? I don't want to cause any more problems by doing the wrong thing.

John

**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.

http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "noladiver" <noladiver@...> wrote:
>You might consider Diamond Shield or one of the similiar products to
protect the front of your coach. Maybe cheaper and less hassle in the
long run.

Spike

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?

Well, yes and no....

I removed the radiator and engine oil cooler, water pump and crank pulleys and the vibration dampner to get access to replace the front crankshaft seal. I went ahead and removed the alternator (with an eye toward install the high output version from a Saab), and removed the AC compressor without disconnecting the hoses.

I had the cam cover off to check the camshaft timing, so the throttle linkage was all undone. I had some soft motor mounts, and knowing I was going to be replacing them, I removed the big allen-headed bolts that fixed them to the arms coming off the engine. I figured I would need to get the engine up a bit so I could drop the crank enough to replace the real main seal. I had to disconnect the power steering and heater hoses, and the fuel and vacuum pump lines. At that point, I only needed to remove the three nuts holding the exhaust to the turbo and hook up my engine hoist. The transmission, along with the starter, was already out.

So, I lifted the engine up pretty high. It never cleared the engine compartment, so it was never removed, exactly. But pretty close. I didn't disconnect the oil pressure guage capillary tube or the wire feeding the glow plugs, for instance, and the hood and grill were not removed.

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Ditwiler
Sent: Jan 20, 2008 9:20 AM
To: diesel mercedes
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?

Thanks Mark!

Did you have to pull the engine to drop the upper oil pan?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark in Fort Collins, CO" <beeser750@earthlink.net>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 9:54:27 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?

Don't need to drain the transmission when removing the lines. Be prepared to lose about two cups of fluid, though, from the cooler.

I have the cooler lines out of my '79 300SD. (I removed them in conjunction with rebuilding the transmission, replacing the crankshaft seals, and whole lotta other stuff.) Mine, too, are badly worn where they clamp to the oil pan, but not yet to the point of leaking. There's supposed to be rubber around the hose at the clamp, but the rubber on mine dried up and disintegrated, leaving a metal clamp to rub a metal tube.

While I had the oil pan off and the crank dropped down to replace the rear crank seal, I decided that with 300,000 miles on this engine to go ahead and replace the rod and main bearing shells. The mains were all good; no longer with the shiny polish the replacement shells had, but certainly serviceable. Four of the rod bearing sets had signs of wear at either side where the rod cap meets the rod. Like dots about the diameter of pencil lead. The fifth cylinder (and last in the oil supply chain) actually had a chunk the size of a pencil erasure out of the very top of the rod side. The crankshaft itself was just fine. The oil pressure on this one kept above the first mark on the guage at idle on the hottest days, and would peg the meter above that, but would drop down to the 3/4-mark when accelerating. The previous owner said it had been doing that the whole time and 50,000 miles he owned the car. It would probably have gone on indefinately like that, but I'm hoping my !
efforts will have cured that problem, if it even is one.

So, yes, these low ends are fairly bullet-proof.

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
>From: Eric Ditwiler <Eric_Ditwiler@hmc.edu>
>Sent: Jan 19, 2008 9:52 PM
>To: diesel mercedes <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?
>
>on a 1982 300CD.
>
>And I mean the metal lines that go all the way back from the rubber end hoses?
>
>Mine leak where they are clamped to the lower oil pan.
>
>
>I hope to get my head on tomorrow.
>
>Hoping that all the stories of bullet proof bottom ends are true

Yahoo! Groups Links

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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Yes, Fred, I forgot. I have a wireless thermometer in the bay, and

the receiver in the cockpit. A very convenient way to know what's

going on down there. A light bulb, as somebody else suggested

works very well as well.

I got frozen up once. Since I apply a little heat to the important

water supply parts, it never happened again.

Keep us posted, John, please.

Joerg (1998 HD Rambler Imperial)

_____

From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of FLW300@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 3:33 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Hi John

What kind of rig? Does it have two furnaces? Sometimes only one furnace
heats the bays and you may need to run the other furnace.

I agree with Joerg's advice re putting a space heater in the bay where the
plumbing is located. Run the heater on Low to Medium. Once the pipes are
frozen, it will take a while to thaw them out.

Do you have a wireless thermometer you could put in the bay to see how cold
it's getting down there?

Maybe take a trip south for a few days to get thawed out??

Fred White 02 Windsor, 05 Pilot
Polk City, FL & Trenton, ME

In a message dated 1/20/2008 10:03:18 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
john@chicagooffices <mailto:john%40chicagoofficespace.com> pace.com writes:

Help! I am in Ky, 12 degrees this am. When I tried to get water this
morning there was no water in the hot water line to the shower and no
water to the kitchen sink at all. Water is ok in the rest of the
bathroom. I ran the furnace all night thinking there would be no
problem. I have heated tanks and the temp was over 60 degrees in the
RV this morning. What do I do now? I don't want to cause any more
problems by doing the wrong thing.

John

**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.

http://body.
<http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489>
aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Help! I am in Ky, 12 degrees this am. When I tried to get water this
morning there was no water in the hot water line to the shower and no
water to the kitchen sink at all. Water is ok in the rest of the
bathroom. I ran the furnace all night thinking there would be no
problem. I have heated tanks and the temp was over 60 degrees in the
RV this morning. What do I do now? I don't want to cause any more
problems by doing the wrong thing.

John

**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.

http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: salt cracking

O.K. guys and gals, as for me I won't buy into this new thing salt
cracking. For one after seperation the salt does not fall to the
bottom.Biodiesel part is still salty.I think that is why they ask you
to mix with 10% diesel,so you won't taste it.So I'm not taking chances
rusting my injector pump,or pistons up.
If you what to make biodiesel the old way is safer for the engine.
Glad I could help. TN Nate

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

> U-Haul can probably install a hitch for you. I have had them install
> hitches on two of my vehicles and they have been excellent and a
> decent price. Not all U-Hauls do it but if you call around you can
> find one that specializes in it. They'll do 8 or 10 a day. You get
> an appointment, and a guy who does nothing but install hitches all day
> long will do the job in an hour. They're probably a hundred bucks
> now. While the guy is installing it, you can peruse the racks of
> add-ons inside and they'll probably have a generic trailer light kit
> which you can install yourself.
>
A couple caveats: Make extra damn sure that they do NOT install a
bumper-mounted hitch. The bumper on all US-market W123's is mounted in
rubber and WILL separate from the car at this late stage. In fact, most
bumpers can be pulled off the car by simply lifting up on the lower edge.
The ONLY safe place to mount a hitch on a unit-bodied car (all Mercs) is the
bumper MOUNTS. That is, you will need to remove the bumper mounts and bolt
the hitch between the mounts and the body, just as the factory does with
it's own hitches.
I fully realise that some will disagree with me. That's fine, the factory
does NOT disagree with me, that's where I'm at.
Jeff

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RE: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty

The other thing to remember about a bra is that if it gets wet and you don't
take it off before it dries on the Coach, the paint can haze and the
fiberglass can crack.

Bob Dikman

2000 Monaco Exec

Matching ATC trailer

From: Russ Waterhouse [mailto:mredsel890@earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:39 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty

My opinion, you are better off with out anything. A bra will rub against the
paint, and if
dirt gets under it, you have sandpaper. Since you already have chips, why
worry? Also, a
bra prevents sun from shining on it. This means the rest of the coach will
bleach/fade out
and the covered part will not. Either way I feel you will end up with
something that
looks like crap.
I repainted my front end and it was not hard, and I was on crutches.
Russ
34' 1996 HMC Aerosport Special Edition Cummins 8.3 - 300 HP

----- Original Message -----
From: "noladiver" <noladiver@yahoo.com <mailto:noladiver%40yahoo.com> >
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Diesel-RVs%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:42 AM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty

:I am trying to purchase a "bra" for the front of my Dynasty. There
: does not seem to be anyone out there (including ADCO) that offers a
: front cover. Please note, the plastic shield would work but would
: only serve to reveal the chips that are already there AND I am not
: ready for a front end repaint.
:
: Thanks
:
:
:
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:
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:
:
:
:

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Been ther, done that. I keep a small electric heater on board for just such a situation. Mine is about 3' x 3" x 6". Very portable, but has a fan, and puts out a lot of heat. Get it as close as possible to the suspected freeze. Should thaw in a few minutes. Generally, you don't have broken pipes because they are plastic, but you really need to be careful when the water begins to flow. Good luck.
Charlie Gearhart
02 Dynamax Isata
----- Original Message -----
From: "jmhco" <john@chicagoofficespace.com>
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 10:03:01 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Help! I am in Ky, 12 degrees this am. When I tried to get water this
morning there was no water in the hot water line to the shower and no
water to the kitchen sink at all. Water is ok in the rest of the
bathroom. I ran the furnace all night thinking there would be no
problem. I have heated tanks and the temp was over 60 degrees in the
RV this morning. What do I do now? I don't want to cause any more
problems by doing the wrong thing.

John

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

John,
Somewhere around the tee off of the hot water line to the shower and the kitcher sink is where the pipe is frozen. Try opening cabinet and drawers close to where you think the water lines are running. Depending on the RV manufacturer, the lines might be above the floor or beneath the floor. Once the pipe is thawed out, you will know if it is broked or one of the joints are leaking. You will hear the water flowing. Be ready to turn the water off to prevent damage. If you leave the RV before the line is thawed, be sure to shut off the water and water pump to avoid flooding if the frozen line ruptures. When the weather gets that cold, you want to open all cabinet doors and drawers to allow heat access to the pipes. Also, if there is a bay access below the floor, put a 60 watt light bulb in those areas if possible.
Good luck on the thawing. Let us know how it works out. Chuck B

jmhco <john@chicagoofficespace.com> wrote:
Help! I am in Ky, 12 degrees this am. When I tried to get water this
morning there was no water in the hot water line to the shower and no
water to the kitchen sink at all. Water is ok in the rest of the
bathroom. I ran the furnace all night thinking there would be no
problem. I have heated tanks and the temp was over 60 degrees in the
RV this morning. What do I do now? I don't want to cause any more
problems by doing the wrong thing.

John

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

Try these guys

http://www.uniquetruck.com/Waste_New_Oil_Management_C11.cfm

dontraveler wrote:
> I also perfer the Ranger Design valve but when I tried to order one
> from the source offered they said they were not carrying them anymore
> and were only selling what they have in stock.
>
> They did not have one for my 2005 CAT C7
>
>
> If anyone knows of another source let us know
>
> Don Hankins
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <jrbarber@...> wrote:
>
>>Thanks all for the Fumoto advice. I like the Ranger Design,
>>www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm
>><www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm> that seems to be
>>less vulnerable to damage.
>>
>>FWIW, the only time I ever had my oil changed by a "professional"
>>instead of doing it myself, was the time I ended up at the Cat Parts
>>counter, replacing a X-threaded drain plug.
>>
>>On a related subject... Any suggestions for removing hot, slippery
>
> oil
>
>>filters without losing them? As soon as filter is loose enough for
>
> oil
>
>>to start spilling out and burning my hands, it's too slick to hang
>
> onto.
>
>>Thought I had a solution when I wrapped duct tape handles around the
>>filters before loosening them. That worked until the filter dropped
>>free, and still slid thru my hands splashing into my catch bucket.
>
> I
>
>>was ready for filter #2. I knew what was going to happen and kept
>
> one
>
>>hand cupped under the filter but it still got away and again
>
> splashed
>
>>into the bucket. I have a great collection of oil-changing caps and
>>t-shirts, each with a different splash design.
>>
>>Jim in CO
>>'87 CC LTD (3208T)
>>
>>
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Things I'm Glad I Did

I used super glue gel.Things I did.Bought a hair dryer,installed extra ground from battery to engine.Put sync. 75 90 gear lube in rear end.back flushed Stanadyne FM100 filter with gasoline.

n61cm <jim@tazwade.com> wrote:

What is the fix for the vinyl door posts?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>> 8. Fixing the flapping, ugly vinyl on the door posts. A quick, easy,
> cheap fix once you get the hang of it.
>

Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. __._,_.___

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

I also perfer the Ranger Design valve but when I tried to order one
from the source offered they said they were not carrying them anymore
and were only selling what they have in stock.

They did not have one for my 2005 CAT C7

If anyone knows of another source let us know

Don Hankins

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <jrbarber@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the Fumoto advice. I like the Ranger Design,
> www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm
> <www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm> that seems to be
> less vulnerable to damage.
>
> FWIW, the only time I ever had my oil changed by a "professional"
> instead of doing it myself, was the time I ended up at the Cat Parts
> counter, replacing a X-threaded drain plug.
>
> On a related subject... Any suggestions for removing hot, slippery
oil
> filters without losing them? As soon as filter is loose enough for
oil
> to start spilling out and burning my hands, it's too slick to hang
onto.
> Thought I had a solution when I wrapped duct tape handles around the
> filters before loosening them. That worked until the filter dropped
> free, and still slid thru my hands splashing into my catch bucket.
I
> was ready for filter #2. I knew what was going to happen and kept
one
> hand cupped under the filter but it still got away and again
splashed
> into the bucket. I have a great collection of oil-changing caps and
> t-shirts, each with a different splash design.
>
> Jim in CO
> '87 CC LTD (3208T)
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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[diesel_mercedes] 240D vacuum Pump Rebuild

I purchased a vacuum rebuild kit for my '81 240D and do not remember
how it came a part. Does anyone have any rebuild documentation handy?
I would really appreciate it.

Thanx,

Steve

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

I change my oil cold.
Poke a hole in the filter, after loosening 1/2 turn. Drink coffee
while it drains for 15 minutes.
Replace Plug and Filter, fill with whatever SEA spec oil is on sale
and I'm good to go.

Pete Arnold

Your mileage may vary.
Objects in mirror are closer than they appear.
Early withdrawal may result in interest penalty.
Do not pass Go, do not collect $200,
Offer invalid where prohibited by law.
On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 06:13:18 -0000, you wrote:

>Thanks all for the Fumoto advice. I like the Ranger Design,
>www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm
><www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm> that seems to be
>less vulnerable to damage.
>
>FWIW, the only time I ever had my oil changed by a "professional"
>instead of doing it myself, was the time I ended up at the Cat Parts
>counter, replacing a X-threaded drain plug.
>
>On a related subject... Any suggestions for removing hot, slippery oil
>filters without losing them? As soon as filter is loose enough for oil
>to start spilling out and burning my hands, it's too slick to hang onto.
>Thought I had a solution when I wrapped duct tape handles around the
>filters before loosening them. That worked until the filter dropped
>free, and still slid thru my hands splashing into my catch bucket. I
>was ready for filter #2. I knew what was going to happen and kept one
>hand cupped under the filter but it still got away and again splashed
>into the bucket. I have a great collection of oil-changing caps and
>t-shirts, each with a different splash design.
>
>Jim in CO
>'87 CC LTD (3208T)
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?

Thanks Mark!

Did you have to pull the engine to drop the upper oil pan?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark in Fort Collins, CO" <beeser750@earthlink.net>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 9:54:27 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?

Don't need to drain the transmission when removing the lines. Be prepared to lose about two cups of fluid, though, from the cooler.

I have the cooler lines out of my '79 300SD. (I removed them in conjunction with rebuilding the transmission, replacing the crankshaft seals, and whole lotta other stuff.) Mine, too, are badly worn where they clamp to the oil pan, but not yet to the point of leaking. There's supposed to be rubber around the hose at the clamp, but the rubber on mine dried up and disintegrated, leaving a metal clamp to rub a metal tube.

While I had the oil pan off and the crank dropped down to replace the rear crank seal, I decided that with 300,000 miles on this engine to go ahead and replace the rod and main bearing shells. The mains were all good; no longer with the shiny polish the replacement shells had, but certainly serviceable. Four of the rod bearing sets had signs of wear at either side where the rod cap meets the rod. Like dots about the diameter of pencil lead. The fifth cylinder (and last in the oil supply chain) actually had a chunk the size of a pencil erasure out of the very top of the rod side. The crankshaft itself was just fine. The oil pressure on this one kept above the first mark on the guage at idle on the hottest days, and would peg the meter above that, but would drop down to the 3/4-mark when accelerating. The previous owner said it had been doing that the whole time and 50,000 miles he owned the car. It would probably have gone on indefinately like that, but I'm hoping my !
efforts will have cured that problem, if it even is one.

So, yes, these low ends are fairly bullet-proof.

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
>From: Eric Ditwiler <Eric_Ditwiler@hmc.edu>
>Sent: Jan 19, 2008 9:52 PM
>To: diesel mercedes <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?
>
>on a 1982 300CD.
>
>And I mean the metal lines that go all the way back from the rubber end hoses?
>
>Mine leak where they are clamped to the lower oil pan.
>
>
>I hope to get my head on tomorrow.
>
>Hoping that all the stories of bullet proof bottom ends are true

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

U-Haul can probably install a hitch for you. I have had them install
hitches on two of my vehicles and they have been excellent and a
decent price. Not all U-Hauls do it but if you call around you can
find one that specializes in it. They'll do 8 or 10 a day. You get
an appointment, and a guy who does nothing but install hitches all day
long will do the job in an hour. They're probably a hundred bucks
now. While the guy is installing it, you can peruse the racks of
add-ons inside and they'll probably have a generic trailer light kit
which you can install yourself.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Schaefer"
<sschaefer50@...> wrote:
>
> Can a 240D pull a small trailer? If the answer is yes, how do you
> hookup the hitch?
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve Friend
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Things I'm Glad I Did

What is the fix for the vinyl door posts?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>> 8. Fixing the flapping, ugly vinyl on the door posts. A quick, easy,
> cheap fix once you get the hang of it.
>

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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Do you have a small space heater? If yes put on the water compartment

and switch it to the lowest level. If you have another one, put it as close
as

possible to the water pipes (underneath the sink or where ever you have

access, again lowest level. Are you hooked up? If not start your generator.

Joerg (1998 HD Rambler Imperial)

_____

From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jmhco
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 10:03 AM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Help! I am in Ky, 12 degrees this am. When I tried to get water this
morning there was no water in the hot water line to the shower and no
water to the kitchen sink at all. Water is ok in the rest of the
bathroom. I ran the furnace all night thinking there would be no
problem. I have heated tanks and the temp was over 60 degrees in the
RV this morning. What do I do now? I don't want to cause any more
problems by doing the wrong thing.

John

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "noladiver" <noladiver@...> wrote:
>
> I am trying to purchase a "bra" for the front of my Dynasty. There
> does not seem to be anyone out there (including ADCO) that offers a
> front cover. Please note, the plastic shield would work but would
> only serve to reveal the chips that are already there AND I am not
> ready for a front end repaint.
>
> Thanks
>
Hi , I have an used one I think from a 2000 not sure of fit can send
pix. If you like send me an email At fsword@juno.com
Frank.
FL.

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[Diesel-RVs] Frozen water pipe!

Help! I am in Ky, 12 degrees this am. When I tried to get water this
morning there was no water in the hot water line to the shower and no
water to the kitchen sink at all. Water is ok in the rest of the
bathroom. I ran the furnace all night thinking there would be no
problem. I have heated tanks and the temp was over 60 degrees in the
RV this morning. What do I do now? I don't want to cause any more
problems by doing the wrong thing.

John

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[diesel_mercedes] 13 degrees starting

Well once again L.A. Nate helped me out.She refused to start.But with
the $10. hair dryer Nate told me about.5 minutes of heating the
head,and intake.She fired right up.That extra ground to the
engine,turned that motor over so fast.

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

A trick I learned years ago was to put a hole in the bottom of the
filter with a punch and then use a cheap can opener (the type that
used to be used for beer cans) and put a hole in the top of the
filter so it will drain easily.

The old style beer can opener hooks well in the top lip of the filter
and easily punctures the side of the can enough to let air in.

Joey
'98 Country Coach 10540

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RV Archive