[diesel_mercedes] Fuel guage Maladies , Cures & Service

 



Yes ;

It is also a mild Cetane booster .

I need to add some to my Ladys Wagon as the fuel gauge is stuck near " full " .

-Nate


       Tony wrote :

SWMBO sends hug to you Nate, SWMBO bought the stuff and put it in following your directions...... lo, one Startron hit and we have a fuel guage again. KUDOS.
Is there any chance that the startron helps with performance? Seems a little peppier today?
Damn, got parking lotted today, small crease in the rear fender, gonna have to see how good my government run auto insurance is.
Tony.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] W123 Rear Axle Assemblies

 

You should get the Haynes manual for these cars, its very helpful and has a good section on rear axles. Now the rear wheel bearings are a whole other deal, not so easy. Max


On Sun, Mar 30, 2014 at 10:05 AM, Marvin Kraft <marvin_kraft@yahoo.com> wrote:


Thank you Max.  I appreciate the advice.
 
Best regards,
 
Marvin Kraft
 
On Sunday, March 30, 2014 11:14 AM, Max temple <jasperezra@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Just stuff the new axles in.I've replaced all four of mine, not hard at all.You do have to open up the rear differential to push off the u clips on the  ends, watch for a shim. Look up a U-tube video. Max


On Sat, Mar 29, 2014 at 8:12 PM, Marvin Kraft <marvin_kraft@yahoo.com> wrote:


Can anyone on this list clarify the evolution of the rear axle assemblies for the W123 chassis cars?  I am restoring a 1982 240D with 361,000 miles on it.  Rear axles work ok, no clunking, but the boots are rotted.  The car has the bolted type inner section.  I have ordered and received replacement axles; I received the crimped can type.  Looking around the web, it looks like the bolted type is the older style and the crimped can type is the newer style, both equally usable.  But it also looks like the newer can type might require different seals where the inner spline connects to the differential, and different wheel hub bolts where the outer section connects to the wheel hub.  I could use some help understanding what I need to do.
 
Thanks,
 
Marvin Kraft
Houston
 








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Re: [diesel_mercedes] W123 Rear Axle Assemblies

 

Thank you Max.  I appreciate the advice.
 
Best regards,
 
Marvin Kraft
 
On Sunday, March 30, 2014 11:14 AM, Max temple <jasperezra@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Just stuff the new axles in.I've replaced all four of mine, not hard at all.You do have to open up the rear differential to push off the u clips on the  ends, watch for a shim. Look up a U-tube video. Max


On Sat, Mar 29, 2014 at 8:12 PM, Marvin Kraft <marvin_kraft@yahoo.com> wrote:


Can anyone on this list clarify the evolution of the rear axle assemblies for the W123 chassis cars?  I am restoring a 1982 240D with 361,000 miles on it.  Rear axles work ok, no clunking, but the boots are rotted.  The car has the bolted type inner section.  I have ordered and received replacement axles; I received the crimped can type.  Looking around the web, it looks like the bolted type is the older style and the crimped can type is the newer style, both equally usable.  But it also looks like the newer can type might require different seals where the inner spline connects to the differential, and different wheel hub bolts where the outer section connects to the wheel hub.  I could use some help understanding what I need to do.
 
Thanks,
 
Marvin Kraft
Houston
 





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Re: [diesel_mercedes] W123 Rear Axle Assemblies

 

Just stuff the new axles in.I've replaced all four of mine, not hard at all.You do have to open up the rear differential to push off the u clips on the  ends, watch for a shim. Look up a U-tube video. Max


On Sat, Mar 29, 2014 at 8:12 PM, Marvin Kraft <marvin_kraft@yahoo.com> wrote:


Can anyone on this list clarify the evolution of the rear axle assemblies for the W123 chassis cars?  I am restoring a 1982 240D with 361,000 miles on it.  Rear axles work ok, no clunking, but the boots are rotted.  The car has the bolted type inner section.  I have ordered and received replacement axles; I received the crimped can type.  Looking around the web, it looks like the bolted type is the older style and the crimped can type is the newer style, both equally usable.  But it also looks like the newer can type might require different seals where the inner spline connects to the differential, and different wheel hub bolts where the outer section connects to the wheel hub.  I could use some help understanding what I need to do.
 
Thanks,
 
Marvin Kraft
Houston
 



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 220 115 master cylinder help

Two failures I have experienced which caused the calipers to lock.

One was a rubber brake line that delaminated inside, causing fluid to
flow out, but when it flowed back, the flap of rubber folded back
causing a "one way valve"

The second was tight brake pad backing plates. The new brake pads are
cheap, the edges are plasma cut with considerable tolerance. When you
apply the brakes, the pads heat up, heating the metal backing plates. If
there is no/little clearance, these will heat up, expanding into the
caliper. They will not release the brakes. The brakes will continue to
apply, heat more, expand more... You will need to stop for about 5
minutes to cool the expanded metal. Then you can drive until you hit the
brakes again. File off the sides of the metal backing plates to make
them smooth. debur the edges so they can slide. Removed any rust/crud on
the sliding surfaces. A LIGHT coating of silicone may help on the edges.

I have had a lot of bad master cylinders. Even brand new ones were
garbage. If the fluid in your brake reservoir is black, your master
cylinder seals are degrading. Brake fluid is clear and should stay that
way. I'm wondering if the older seals are not compatible with DOT3,4 fluids.

Carl


On 3/30/2014 11:09 AM, Atwood,Warren wrote:
>
> The RF caliper did not lock up previously. Pads were worn half way
>
> and heavy glaze. Replaced pads, and booster. Did not change the MC,
>
> it works on the bench when I bled it. Hoses are least 15 years old.
>
> Will replace all hoses this week.
>
> Bench bleeding did help – at least have a firm pedal.
>
> thanks for the feedback
>
> *From:*diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Aleph93
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 30, 2014 7:57 AM
> *To:* diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [diesel_mercedes] 220 115 master cylinder help
>
> Was the RF caliper locking up before? (pulling to one side, wearing
> faster, glazing the rotor)
> Is that the same one that no fluid comes out of?
> Is the Master cylinder new?
>
> Try the old method of someone stepping on the pedal.
> While bleeding my wife's Volvo, one of the bleeder valves wouldn't bleed
> with the pressure bleeder, yet did so with the old method.
> Volvo's are weird, there are 2 lines going to each front caliper, one
> just for the front brake, and another that also connects to one of the
> rear brakes, so if one line broke you'd still have both front brakes.
> Extra safe, yet more time to bleed.
>
> Rob
> '85 300D
> Garden Grove, CA
>
> On 3/30/14, 3:16 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> > 220 115 master cylinder help
> > Posted by: "WARREN ATWOOD"menlotrail@yahoo.com menlotrail
> > Date: Sat Mar 29, 2014 9:20 pm ((PDT))
> >
> > Replaced the brake booster and front pads.
> > Bench bled the master cylinder
> >
> > Problems bleeding the system. Using a Actron vacuum brake bleeder,
> and cannot get all the air out.
> > No brake fluid coming out of the front brake calipers.
> > RF caliper locks up.
> > Is there a residual valve in the system? Traced the lines and did
> not see one.
> >
> > Any thoughts on what could be the problem ?
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > warren
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this communication is
> strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error,
> please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, and delete the
> original communication from your system without making any copies.
> *Altra Industrial Motion Corp. and affiliates.*
> *******************************************************************************
>
>



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RE: [diesel_mercedes] 220 115 master cylinder help

 

The RF caliper did not lock up previously.  Pads were worn half way

and heavy glaze.  Replaced pads, and booster.  Did not change the MC,

it works on the bench when I bled it.  Hoses are least 15 years old.

Will replace all hoses this week.  

Bench bleeding did help – at least have a firm pedal. 

 

thanks for the feedback

 

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Aleph93
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2014 7:57 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] 220 115 master cylinder help

 

 

Was the RF caliper locking up before? (pulling to one side, wearing
faster, glazing the rotor)
Is that the same one that no fluid comes out of?
Is the Master cylinder new?

Try the old method of someone stepping on the pedal.
While bleeding my wife's Volvo, one of the bleeder valves wouldn't bleed
with the pressure bleeder, yet did so with the old method.
Volvo's are weird, there are 2 lines going to each front caliper, one
just for the front brake, and another that also connects to one of the
rear brakes, so if one line broke you'd still have both front brakes.
Extra safe, yet more time to bleed.

Rob
'85 300D
Garden Grove, CA

On 3/30/14, 3:16 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> 220 115 master cylinder help
> Posted by: "WARREN ATWOOD"menlotrail@yahoo.com menlotrail
> Date: Sat Mar 29, 2014 9:20 pm ((PDT))
>
> Replaced the brake booster and front pads.
> Bench bled the master cylinder
>
> Problems bleeding the system. Using a Actron vacuum brake bleeder, and cannot get all the air out.
> No brake fluid coming out of the front brake calipers.
> RF caliper locks up.
> Is there a residual valve in the system? Traced the lines and did not see one.
>
> Any thoughts on what could be the problem ?
>
> Many thanks,
> warren

*******************************************************************************
This communication and any attachments are intended only for the personal and confidential use of the recipient(s) named above. If you are not an intended recipient or an agent responsible for delivering it to an intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, and delete the original communication from your system without making any copies.
Altra Industrial Motion Corp. and affiliates.
*******************************************************************************

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 220 115 master cylinder help

 

Was the RF caliper locking up before? (pulling to one side, wearing
faster, glazing the rotor)
Is that the same one that no fluid comes out of?
Is the Master cylinder new?

Try the old method of someone stepping on the pedal.
While bleeding my wife's Volvo, one of the bleeder valves wouldn't bleed
with the pressure bleeder, yet did so with the old method.
Volvo's are weird, there are 2 lines going to each front caliper, one
just for the front brake, and another that also connects to one of the
rear brakes, so if one line broke you'd still have both front brakes.
Extra safe, yet more time to bleed.

Rob
'85 300D
Garden Grove, CA

On 3/30/14, 3:16 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> 220 115 master cylinder help
> Posted by: "WARREN ATWOOD"menlotrail@yahoo.com menlotrail
> Date: Sat Mar 29, 2014 9:20 pm ((PDT))
>
> Replaced the brake booster and front pads.
> Bench bled the master cylinder
>
> Problems bleeding the system. Using a Actron vacuum brake bleeder, and cannot get all the air out.
> No brake fluid coming out of the front brake calipers.
> RF caliper locks up.
> Is there a residual valve in the system? Traced the lines and did not see one.
>
> Any thoughts on what could be the problem ?
>
> Many thanks,
> warren

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] 220 115 master cylinder help

 

I would replace all of the flex lines that connect the (wheel) slave cylinders to the solid lines. Do all of them starting at the furthest from the master cylinder.  Bill in Oregon

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of WARREN ATWOOD
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2014 9:07 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 220 115 master cylinder help

 

Replaced the brake booster and front pads. 

Bench bled the master cylinder

 

Problems bleeding the system.  Using a  Actron vacuum brake bleeder, and cannot get all the air out.

No brake fluid coming out of the front brake calipers.

RF caliper locks up.

Is there a residual valve in the system?  Traced the lines and did not see one. 

 

Any thoughts on what could be the problem ?

 

Many thanks,

warren

 

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