Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Lutkefiske

--- vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
> Amazingly , I had several buddies who live in
> Minnesota and they not
> only eat that crap , they claim to _like_ it ! .
>
> -Nate
> Tom wrote:
> >
> >
> > Is that anything like Lutkefiske?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > Max writes:
> >
> > Do you guys eat Ludafish? (I'm sure I spelled
> this wrong). Max
> >
>
>
Lutefisk is not only good to eat, you can use it for
patch panels on rusty body parts!!


Tom Hanson
Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Rusty Cullens MB Parts

--- vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
> My recent BuyMBParts order was shipped from the
> Mercedes Benz No.
> American L.A. area whse.~ needless to say , I am
> shickled titless
> with the quality of my original Mercedes Benz
> factory parts with
> factory parts stickers all over them....
>
> Still no oil leaks....
>
> -Nate
> Brian wrote:
> >
> > My guess is a lot of these guys are tied together
> electronically
> and our orders are processed through "whoever has
> the part and is
> closest to you." Maybe very few of them maintain
> their own
> separate inventory stocks.
> >
> > brian
> >
> > Eric Ditwiler <Eric_Ditwiler@...>
> wrote: I live in
> Pomona, CA -- a few
> mile east of Los Angeles--and I have received stuff
> ordered by noon
> my time the next day in the late afternoon. I don't
> think my stuff
> is getting shipped from Atlanta . . .
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mark in Fort Collins, CO" <beeser750@...>
> > To: "diesel mercedes"
> <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2008 8:08:16 AM
> (GMT-0800)
> America/Los_Angeles
> > Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Rusty Cullens MB
> Parts
> >
> > Well, that time frame's if you live in Oregon.
> If you live
> closer to Atlanta (where Rusty is), the things
> arrive sooner.
> >
> > Mark
>
>
It would be impossible for you to get anything
purchased from Rusty shipped from our L.A. Region
Parts Distribution Center.

Tom Hanson
Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] I hope no one told me this was THAT easy...

Thanks, Brian, for the suggestion on removing the old hood pad!  I like it, and fully intend to use it!
 
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

Poetry, sheer poetry.
brian


Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com> wrote:
Lanni:

I've had 7 of these 75-85 Mercedes diesels. My first was the 75 300D and it was
fun to drive and work on right out of the chute. I got it in '02. It was 27-28
years old at tyhe time. It had been sitting for 6+ years and it needed a brake
hose, a battery, some vacuum hoses re connected, and a windshield. The battery
cost 65 or 70 bucks at Wal-Mart and the windshield cost 150 installed and the
glass company had the piece in stock. It also needed the drivers window motor
cleaned and lubed. But I do all that sort of thing myself and the motor came
back to life. Everything on it was electric and it all (repeat ALL) worked. It
was the most fun-to-drive car I have ever owned. I sold it to a kid out of
economic necessity 3+ years ago and he is still driving it. I wish I had it
back.

I am currently driving an 81 300TD (wagon) with 320,000 miles on the clock and
had I not run it without oil for 150 miles out of L.A. toward Las Vegas I would
still be driving the original engine at 320,000 miles - and getting 25+ miles a
gallon. But even with the (unintentional) abuse, that car and engine still made
it all the way home to Salt Lake City Utah, and where I found a used engine
with 350,000 miles and swapped the engine. It is my daily driver and still
starts fine in the sub-freezing rocky mountain mornings. (Granted I need the
block heater - but still . . . )

Now, granted I, like most of the gearheads on this list, love to work on my own
cars. And that is part of the draw for me of this e-group. But, for those of us
who like this sort of thing, these are nothing short of a joy to work on. Oh,
they have their points to be sure. But nothing like an american car before or
since. And I haven't had to do anything major on my 81 300TD EXCEPT the motor
since I got it 5 years ago. And mostly it puts the energizer bunny to shame -
it just keeps on going and going and going and going and going . . .

It does not look like a showroom piece anymore. But I buy a car for it's
reliability - not looks. (I'm funny that way.) But I fully expect to get
another 10 years out of her - and I put 3,000 miles a month on her. I dare say
no other car before or since will last that long. Not even the VW TDI's.

And you might want to check on repair prices for standard kinds of things like
belts and hoses etc. I can still get a NEW radiator for about $80 to $100. And
there are plenty of used parts available in salvage yards. In fact, there are
salvage yards that specialize in these old german machines. So much so that no
one on this list expects to have a problem finding used heater cores or window
motors (and thye like) for years to come. Yes, it is very likely that a
30-year-old window motor and lift mechanism can be found in a salvage yard that
is still in near perfect working condition. And for about 15 to 20 dollars.

And frankly I can't afford to drive a new car. I just don't have that kind of
money - either for purchase or repair parts. Now I have also had a parts car
for the last 4 years. But it weighs almost as much now as it did when I bought
it. I just haven't needed that many parts. 2 months ago, for example, I had to
replace the automatic radio antenna and the one in my 78 parts wagon fit my 81.
And that is part of the beauty of these cars. 97% of everything on the 240 and
300 diesel models from 77 to 85 is interchangeable. So good used parts are
everywhere.

To be sure, have a mechanic you trust look it over. But if it will pass your
local safety inspections it will probably be worth considering. Right now,
because it's winter, the issue of starting it in the cold comes up and you
should be sure it will start in the coldest conditions it will be used in.

Other than that, no one here can speak highly enough of these cars. So you may
be asking the wrong crowd. But don't be surprized if your 'trusted' mechanic
tries to buy it out from under you.

Bogy.

--- lostintheflood2 <lanni.johnson@verizon.net> wrote:

> Hello Everyone, I joined this group a couple of days ago because we
> need to get a diesel vehicle and I've been looking at Mercedes Benz on
> various forums online for about a year.
>
> I've concluded that we need to either buy a 2000 or newer VW TDI, or
> an 80's version Benz TD.
>
> I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD, but we've never
> had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he has no interest
> in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a car that old (over
> 20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From reading the posts on
> here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what you do because you
> have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).
>
> Anyway, my question...if we could find a well-maintained 84 or 85
> Benz, would it mean constant maintenance, way more than a newer car?
> Would we be in danger of breaking down on a road trip?
>
> I realize these questions are subjective, but I'm just trying to
> understand the attraction of the older Benz cars to justify my
> interest and I want to know your thoughts.
>
> We've been driving a 2001 Camry since it was new and it's been a great
> car, but the days of diesel are here.
>
> So, please let me know what you think.
>
> Thanks,
> Lanni
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

FLW300@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Ron
>
> What kind of coach and what year?
>
> Adding the cord reel shouldn't be too difficult if you have a good space for
> it. MCC has used at least a couple of different kinds of reel. My 02
> Windsor has a Glendinning reel which is a closed unit and comes out of the marine
> hardware world. It's fairly expensive.
>
> On at least some models MCC has started using a open reel that is
> considerably less expensive.

Gonna guess that this is the TDI reel (water, electric and Sani-Con hose
versions available). Had TDI water and 50 apm installed on our 02
Windsor after market and have had no problem whatever.

Bob Clerc
@ Redlands, CA

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

Lanni:

I've had 7 of these 75-85 Mercedes diesels. My first was the 75 300D and it was
fun to drive and work on right out of the chute. I got it in '02. It was 27-28
years old at tyhe time. It had been sitting for 6+ years and it needed a brake
hose, a battery, some vacuum hoses re connected, and a windshield. The battery
cost 65 or 70 bucks at Wal-Mart and the windshield cost 150 installed and the
glass company had the piece in stock. It also needed the drivers window motor
cleaned and lubed. But I do all that sort of thing myself and the motor came
back to life. Everything on it was electric and it all (repeat ALL) worked. It
was the most fun-to-drive car I have ever owned. I sold it to a kid out of
economic necessity 3+ years ago and he is still driving it. I wish I had it
back.

I am currently driving an 81 300TD (wagon) with 320,000 miles on the clock and
had I not run it without oil for 150 miles out of L.A. toward Las Vegas I would
still be driving the original engine at 320,000 miles - and getting 25+ miles a
gallon. But even with the (unintentional) abuse, that car and engine still made
it all the way home to Salt Lake City Utah, and where I found a used engine
with 350,000 miles and swapped the engine. It is my daily driver and still
starts fine in the sub-freezing rocky mountain mornings. (Granted I need the
block heater - but still . . . )

Now, granted I, like most of the gearheads on this list, love to work on my own
cars. And that is part of the draw for me of this e-group. But, for those of us
who like this sort of thing, these are nothing short of a joy to work on. Oh,
they have their points to be sure. But nothing like an american car before or
since. And I haven't had to do anything major on my 81 300TD EXCEPT the motor
since I got it 5 years ago. And mostly it puts the energizer bunny to shame -
it just keeps on going and going and going and going and going . . .

It does not look like a showroom piece anymore. But I buy a car for it's
reliability - not looks. (I'm funny that way.) But I fully expect to get
another 10 years out of her - and I put 3,000 miles a month on her. I dare say
no other car before or since will last that long. Not even the VW TDI's.

And you might want to check on repair prices for standard kinds of things like
belts and hoses etc. I can still get a NEW radiator for about $80 to $100. And
there are plenty of used parts available in salvage yards. In fact, there are
salvage yards that specialize in these old german machines. So much so that no
one on this list expects to have a problem finding used heater cores or window
motors (and thye like) for years to come. Yes, it is very likely that a
30-year-old window motor and lift mechanism can be found in a salvage yard that
is still in near perfect working condition. And for about 15 to 20 dollars.

And frankly I can't afford to drive a new car. I just don't have that kind of
money - either for purchase or repair parts. Now I have also had a parts car
for the last 4 years. But it weighs almost as much now as it did when I bought
it. I just haven't needed that many parts. 2 months ago, for example, I had to
replace the automatic radio antenna and the one in my 78 parts wagon fit my 81.
And that is part of the beauty of these cars. 97% of everything on the 240 and
300 diesel models from 77 to 85 is interchangeable. So good used parts are
everywhere.

To be sure, have a mechanic you trust look it over. But if it will pass your
local safety inspections it will probably be worth considering. Right now,
because it's winter, the issue of starting it in the cold comes up and you
should be sure it will start in the coldest conditions it will be used in.

Other than that, no one here can speak highly enough of these cars. So you may
be asking the wrong crowd. But don't be surprized if your 'trusted' mechanic
tries to buy it out from under you.

Bogy.

--- lostintheflood2 <lanni.johnson@verizon.net> wrote:

> Hello Everyone, I joined this group a couple of days ago because we
> need to get a diesel vehicle and I've been looking at Mercedes Benz on
> various forums online for about a year.
>
> I've concluded that we need to either buy a 2000 or newer VW TDI, or
> an 80's version Benz TD.
>
> I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD, but we've never
> had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he has no interest
> in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a car that old (over
> 20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From reading the posts on
> here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what you do because you
> have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).
>
> Anyway, my question...if we could find a well-maintained 84 or 85
> Benz, would it mean constant maintenance, way more than a newer car?
> Would we be in danger of breaking down on a road trip?
>
> I realize these questions are subjective, but I'm just trying to
> understand the attraction of the older Benz cars to justify my
> interest and I want to know your thoughts.
>
> We've been driving a 2001 Camry since it was new and it's been a great
> car, but the days of diesel are here.
>
> So, please let me know what you think.
>
> Thanks,
> Lanni
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

Ron,
Where is your transfer switch? On our Windsor it is in the narrow bay that is foward of the dump valve bay next to the inverter. Same bay as our water pump. Our cord reel is in the same bay as the water pump. Go to www.hwh. com 1-800-321-3494. The secret to the HWH leveling system is that there are NO leaks in that portion of the air system. They are located in Moscow, IA Chuck B

rlorton2000 <rlorton@aol.com> wrote:
--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Chuck & Mary Boros
<elmerfletcher@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ron,
> The power cord reel is a piece of cake if you have the space for
it. You did not say which model coach you have. The air leveling
system is a little more complicated. We have the HWH air leveling
system on our 04 Windsor. I love it. We do not have hydraulic
jacks. After 2004, Monaco got into a pissing contast with HWH and no
longer uses their system. MCC then went to a Firestone system for
awhile and had a lot of problems with it .. I do not know what brand
they now use. If I were you, I would go to HWH's factory in Iowa to
have their air leveling system installed. A lot will depend which
Roadmaster Chassis you have.
> As far as I know, the HWH system was installed on the 8 and 10
air bag chassis only. Chuck B
>
> rlorton2000 <rlorton@...> wrote:
> I am going into the Monaco svc ctr in a few weeks. While
there I am
> going to ask about having air leveling and power cord reel
installed.
> Has anyone out there had this done, either at a service center or
other
> RV shop? I know that Monaco will get a higher price for this than
an
> independent shop but I also want to know that it is done right.
Info
> on pricing and quality are appreciated!!
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Chuck & Mary Boros
> 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
> Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
>

The coach is an 04 HR Imperial which is on the same 8 bag chassis as
the Windsor. The power cord wiring is all there and the compartment
on the driver side aft is accessable from the rear closet. Thanks
for the tip on going to HWH for the air leveling. Do they have a
website?
Thanks, Ron


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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[diesel_mercedes] Updating 1995 E300D Fuel Injection System to 2005 E300 CDI Common Rail

Is it possible to update the diesel fuel injection system on a 1995
E300 Diesel to the system used in the 2005 E320 cdi turbo diesel? The
2005 engine is an inline six of 3.2 liters displacement. I know the '95
doesn't have the turbo, but the commonrail injection and control units
should be more efficient than the 1995 system.


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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Chuck & Mary Boros
<elmerfletcher@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ron,
> The power cord reel is a piece of cake if you have the space for
it. You did not say which model coach you have. The air leveling
system is a little more complicated. We have the HWH air leveling
system on our 04 Windsor. I love it. We do not have hydraulic
jacks. After 2004, Monaco got into a pissing contast with HWH and no
longer uses their system. MCC then went to a Firestone system for
awhile and had a lot of problems with it .. I do not know what brand
they now use. If I were you, I would go to HWH's factory in Iowa to
have their air leveling system installed. A lot will depend which
Roadmaster Chassis you have.
> As far as I know, the HWH system was installed on the 8 and 10
air bag chassis only. Chuck B
>
> rlorton2000 <rlorton@...> wrote:
> I am going into the Monaco svc ctr in a few weeks. While
there I am
> going to ask about having air leveling and power cord reel
installed.
> Has anyone out there had this done, either at a service center or
other
> RV shop? I know that Monaco will get a higher price for this than
an
> independent shop but I also want to know that it is done right.
Info
> on pricing and quality are appreciated!!
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Chuck & Mary Boros
> 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
> Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
>

The coach is an 04 HR Imperial which is on the same 8 bag chassis as
the Windsor. The power cord wiring is all there and the compartment
on the driver side aft is accessable from the rear closet. Thanks
for the tip on going to HWH for the air leveling. Do they have a
website?
Thanks, Ron


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

Hi Ron,
The power cord reel is a piece of cake if you have the space for it. You did not say which model coach you have. The air leveling system is a little more complicated. We have the HWH air leveling system on our 04 Windsor. I love it. We do not have hydraulic jacks. After 2004, Monaco got into a pissing contast with HWH and no longer uses their system. MCC then went to a Firestone system for awhile and had a lot of problems with it .. I do not know what brand they now use. If I were you, I would go to HWH's factory in Iowa to have their air leveling system installed. A lot will depend which Roadmaster Chassis you have.
As far as I know, the HWH system was installed on the 8 and 10 air bag chassis only. Chuck B

rlorton2000 <rlorton@aol.com> wrote:
I am going into the Monaco svc ctr in a few weeks. While there I am
going to ask about having air leveling and power cord reel installed.
Has anyone out there had this done, either at a service center or other
RV shop? I know that Monaco will get a higher price for this than an
independent shop but I also want to know that it is done right. Info
on pricing and quality are appreciated!!

Ron


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Auxiliary Water Pump

vwnate1 wrote:

>
> Cool ! .
>
> I hope she's single....
>
> -Nate
> Jeff wrote:
> >
> > > Had there been a secretary there , I'd asked for a _KISS_ with
> it....
> > >
> > That's why I like my local M-B dealer - a secretary with cleavage
> you could
> > surf...and 10% off parts prices...how can you argue??
> > Jeff
> >
>
>


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

Hi Ron

What kind of coach and what year?

Adding the cord reel shouldn't be too difficult if you have a good space for
it. MCC has used at least a couple of different kinds of reel. My 02
Windsor has a Glendinning reel which is a closed unit and comes out of the marine
hardware world. It's fairly expensive.

On at least some models MCC has started using a open reel that is
considerably less expensive.

Backfitting air leveling sounds like a serious project to me. If you are
very lucky, the wiring may already be there. But the control head, leveling
sensor and the various Mac valves will all have to be added. I would expect
this project to run well over $5K. Maybe someone on the group has better info.

Fred White 02 Windsor, 05 Pilot
Polk City, FL & Trenton, ME





In a message dated 2/7/2008 5:38:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rlorton@aol.com writes:

I am going into the Monaco svc ctr in a few weeks. While there I am
going to ask about having air leveling and power cord reel installed.
Has anyone out there had this done, either at a service center or other
RV shop? I know that Monaco will get a higher price for this than an
independent shop but I also want to know that it is done right. Info
on pricing and quality are appreciated!o

Ron

**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

I bought a diesel one its from my hometown.Two I hate computers,sensors,aluminum heads and blocks,rubber timing belts that cost a fortune to replace.Three My S class will total anything on the road.I can run any oil when fuel is over $5. a gallon.Easy to work on.But don't trust mechanics,they are a ripoff in Tennessee.

lostintheflood2 <lanni.johnson@verizon.net> wrote:
Hello Everyone, I joined this group a couple of days ago because we
need to get a diesel vehicle and I've been looking at Mercedes Benz on
various forums online for about a year.

I've concluded that we need to either buy a 2000 or newer VW TDI, or
an 80's version Benz TD.

I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD, but we've never
had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he has no interest
in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a car that old (over
20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From reading the posts on
here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what you do because you
have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).

Anyway, my question...if we could find a well-maintained 84 or 85
Benz, would it mean constant maintenance, way more than a newer car?
Would we be in danger of breaking down on a road trip?

I realize these questions are subjective, but I'm just trying to
understand the attraction of the older Benz cars to justify my
interest and I want to know your thoughts.

We've been driving a 2001 Camry since it was new and it's been a great
car, but the days of diesel are here.

So, please let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Lanni



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Coolant Smell

I don't really notice greasy inside window. It gets a very small amount of
something, though. Maybe that's is. I put a can of "barsleak" in it.....it
still has the smell, maybe not quite as bad........
It doesn't seem to be losing coolant, so, it would be a very small leak, I'd
guess.

thanks,
Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "vwnate1" <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 3:00 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Coolant Smell

Do you also get greasy stuff on the inside of your windows ? the
heater core is prolly misting a tiny leak , add one tube of Silver
Seal powder and it'll stop , as long as you have clean coolant .

-Nate
Henry Wrote :

I get that same smell in my 240. I don't have a tank. Maybe I'll
install
one........
I didn't think of that.
Thanks,
Henry


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] brakes

Never I will do soon.I need also passenger rear brake line.If I jack body it looks bad but no leaks yet.

Kevin Kraly <kraly@comcast.net> wrote:
When was the last time you did a fluid flush on your 'SD?  You could try cleaning the pins and reinstalling them, but it may be the caliper pistons sticking.  Start with the simple possibility and go from there.  I need to find my pressure bleeder and fluid flush my 'SD too.
 
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Coolant Smell

Not mine

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:


Do you also get greasy stuff on the inside of your windows ? the
heater core is prolly misting a tiny leak , add one tube of Silver
Seal powder and it'll stop , as long as you have clean coolant .

-Nate
Henry Wrote :

I get that same smell in my 240. I don't have a tank. Maybe I'll
install
one........
I didn't think of that.
Thanks,
Henry



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[diesel_mercedes] Pick-A-Part Fun

O.K. , the Arcaida , Ca. P-A-P on South Myrtle has a bunch of
Mercedes , some are Diesels .

They had the gates open and were bringing in freshly purchased cars
from the parking lot and putting them in the rows ~ two Euro W-126's
with headlights etc. , I opened the trunk of the super clean cherry
one and found the original toolkit underneath the _never_used_ spare
tire (Bundt wheel) , boy howdy the wheel looked nice ! ~ shinyer than
the ones I am refinishing for my car .

I took the perfect safety triangle and latch too , it'll go into Tom's
car as his has a scratch or two on it .

As I left there was a pristine W-116 , a V-8 gasser but looked like new
still in the parking lot as I was leaving .

I got another auxiliary water pump as it was only a couple years old
so what the hell, someone will need it (I tested it) . it had an
_American_Made_ Klima I servo in it but it had begun to leak at the
bottom a little , I did grab the amplifier but it may not be good ,
I'll test it as soon as I learn how .

If anyone needs nice W-116 parts in mint green metallic , better
hustle on over there , hubcaps were really nice too , seats etc. the
cherry W-126 Euro gasser was a dark blue I think , nice interior too .


-Nate


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Auxiliary Water Pump

Cool ! .

I hope she's single....

-Nate
Jeff wrote:
>
> > Had there been a secretary there , I'd asked for a _KISS_ with
it....
> >
> That's why I like my local M-B dealer - a secretary with cleavage
you could
> surf...and 10% off parts prices...how can you argue??
> Jeff
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Coolant Smell

Do you also get greasy stuff on the inside of your windows ? the
heater core is prolly misting a tiny leak , add one tube of Silver
Seal powder and it'll stop , as long as you have clean coolant .

-Nate
Henry Wrote :

I get that same smell in my 240. I don't have a tank. Maybe I'll
install
one........
I didn't think of that.
Thanks,
Henry



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Speedo & Cruise Control Amp.

O.K. _THANKX_ Rich -

I _will_ do this as my 'Benz is worth it now (to me , anyway) .

Unfortunately , my thumb isn't looking too good so I've stopped
working for now .

-Nate
Rich wrote:
>
> As I recall, I had to use a 1/4 in drive with a long extension to
> reach across the brake pedal. Then just sort of knock it loose.
> Obviously, putting it back in was a little more difficult.
>
> Retouching the solder joints didn't fix mine. It did go from
> totally dead to surging, though. Someday, I'll send it up to the
> place in Morro Bay...when the rest of the car is "worth it".
>
> Rich


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Other Car's Alternators

Volvos look like a good bet too , they have reducers in the
mounting holes to suit 8MM bolts where the Mercedes & SAABs use 10MM
bolts , the reducersare rubber and should press right out .

-Nate
Mark wrote:
>
> If you have ready access to '80s Euro-cars in the Pic-A-Part
yards, check there. MB gassers and some Saabs came with higher
output alternators. The ones from the MBs will bolt right in and
connect with no problem; the ones from the Saabs will require some
modifications for the electrical connections. I haven't tried it
myself, but the more adventurous could probably mix and match MB and
Saab alternator components to get the Saab's 80-amp innards inside
an MB alternator housing.
>
> Rusty sells 70 amp alternators for the MB diesels for about $120,
remanufactured.
>
> Mark


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Rusty Cullens MB Parts

My recent BuyMBParts order was shipped from the Mercedes Benz No.
American L.A. area whse.~ needless to say , I am shickled titless
with the quality of my original Mercedes Benz factory parts with
factory parts stickers all over them....

Still no oil leaks....

-Nate
Brian wrote:
>
> My guess is a lot of these guys are tied together electronically
and our orders are processed through "whoever has the part and is
closest to you." Maybe very few of them maintain their own
separate inventory stocks.
>
> brian
>
> Eric Ditwiler <Eric_Ditwiler@...>
wrote: I live in Pomona, CA -- a few
mile east of Los Angeles--and I have received stuff ordered by noon
my time the next day in the late afternoon. I don't think my stuff
is getting shipped from Atlanta . . .
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark in Fort Collins, CO" <beeser750@...>
> To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2008 8:08:16 AM (GMT-0800)
America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Rusty Cullens MB Parts
>
> Well, that time frame's if you live in Oregon. If you live
closer to Atlanta (where Rusty is), the things arrive sooner.
>
> Mark


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Caliper Cleaning

Yes ;

Use your toothbrush sized steel bristle wire brush and keep at it
untill it's clean as new .

-Nate
Nate wrote:
>
> say I've got a drivers side rear brake that sticks.All I need to do
is
> remove pins and clean and vasaline them.Can I just drive pins out
and
> clean them with caliper in place on rotor?w126 I believe ATE.
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: S-Klasse high amp..." Alternator 80

Yes , M-110 (6 cyl.) or V-8 engine , I wanted a bit more ' oomph ' so
I opted for the SABB one , it looks like I can simply open the black
plug and slide out the wires and then add a couple brass conversion
male pieces to the big alternator and it'll all go right to-gether ,
if not I'll simply lop the plug off the end of my W-123's harness and
add some 6 MM ring terminals .

If you find an unrebuilt S-Klasse alternaor , the Boasch sticker will
tell you it's rated output .

-Nate
Nate Rector wrote:
>
> Oh so get one from a 6 cylinder s class.I say that because rpm of
pulley might be closer,that the 170mph one.


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[Diesel-RVs] Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

I am going into the Monaco svc ctr in a few weeks. While there I am
going to ask about having air leveling and power cord reel installed.
Has anyone out there had this done, either at a service center or other
RV shop? I know that Monaco will get a higher price for this than an
independent shop but I also want to know that it is done right. Info
on pricing and quality are appreciated!!

Ron

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] I hope no one told me this was THAT easy...

This may not satisfy the purist - but it worked for me (and very well at that).

I went to my local do it yourself car wash. Go to the vacuum first. Vacuum the hood pad first using the hard plastic nozzle like a scraper - sucks all that garbage away slick as vasaline on a crew cut.  Then head for the car wash, put the hood in the upright position, and spray it clean. I did a little minor touch up after that but 99% of my old pad was gone, and what was left was miniscule (itty bitty pieces). I put the new pad on with 3M adhesive (hood upright, tack the top end first). All in all, not a bad experience - just don't spray the 3M on a windy day cause it is a bugger to get off your paint.

brian

Kevin Kraly <kraly@comcast.net> wrote:
strip hood,
 
Mine needs that too (forgot about that).  When I went to change the battery, hood pad mess was all over the place under there.  When it had the exhaust leak at the turbo, it blackened the area on the hood above it.  I'm going to get the old decaying stuff off and install a new hood pad.  It will be a lot quieter after that's done since the old stuff can't be absorbing too much noise.
 
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula



brian from la verne, ca


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

What a great question - because each of us had to come to grips with its answer in the past. I think that you will find that most of us (those who own / operate 25 year old MB's) do a lot of their own repair work, either because they enjoy doing so, or for reasons of economy. MB's from 1980 - 1985 generally have engines that are "bullet proof" and 500,000 miles is not uncommon. Of course, peripheral parts wear out over time and an owner must either be prepared to do the work himself / herself, or pay someone else to do it for them. A lot of us choose to tinker with these fine old cars because we like to do it, and because it is not that difficult compared to the cars of today where you almost have to take the front ends off in order to change the oil. For $2K - $4K you can find MB's in various condition. Watch out for rust (which can be hidden) - although the engines are rock solid, the bodies that have been fighting snow for 10 years are another story. And, just because it is in Florida doesn't mean that it did not come from New Hampshire.  I am taking my 300D out for a 1000 mile trip tomorrow and I am going to enjoy every mile. Conversely, my other 300D just lost a pulley off the crankshaft and now sits at the mechanics. I choose to have him fix it and I will pay him to do it - but if I had the time and inclination, I would fix it myself. Buy your husband some tools for his birthday and let him develop a hobby that will keep him interested post retirement.

brian

lostintheflood2 <lanni.johnson@verizon.net> wrote:
Hello Everyone, I joined this group a couple of days ago because we
need to get a diesel vehicle and I've been looking at Mercedes Benz on
various forums online for about a year.

I've concluded that we need to either buy a 2000 or newer VW TDI, or
an 80's version Benz TD.

I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD, but we've never
had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he has no interest
in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a car that old (over
20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From reading the posts on
here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what you do because you
have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).

Anyway, my question...if we could find a well-maintained 84 or 85
Benz, would it mean constant maintenance, way more than a newer car?
Would we be in danger of breaking down on a road trip?

I realize these questions are subjective, but I'm just trying to
understand the attraction of the older Benz cars to justify my
interest and I want to know your thoughts.

We've been driving a 2001 Camry since it was new and it's been a great
car, but the days of diesel are here.

So, please let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Lanni




brian from la verne, ca


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] brakes

When was the last time you did a fluid flush on your 'SD?  You could try cleaning the pins and reinstalling them, but it may be the caliper pistons sticking.  Start with the simple possibility and go from there.  I need to find my pressure bleeder and fluid flush my 'SD too.
 
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

In a message dated 2/7/2008 1:10:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, lanni.johnson@verizon.net writes:
I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD, but we've never
had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he has no interest
in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a car that old (over
20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From reading the posts on
here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what you do because you
have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).
Lanni, 
 
    These Benz's are great cars, and the diesel models are the best of the best. 
 
    However, they do require care and attention.  Everything is fixable, but if you look through the list postings, you will see lots of exchanges about where to get the best prices, advice on which "Pick-a-Part" yard (junk yard) has current stock on cars to pull parts off, frustration with finding the solution to a repair problem, etc. 
 
    These are cars for people who love to tinker with them. 
 
    It is possible that you might find one that will run well and satisfy without tinkering, or that you won't mind the cost of having someone else tinker.  But generally, if the family rule is "we'd rather not do the work ourselves" then these are not the cars for you. 
 
Tom '81 300SD, 317,000 miles 



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Rusty Cullens MB Parts

If you live closer to Atlanta (where Rusty is), the things arrive sooner.
 
True!
 
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

Lanni,

I believe that you could find a REALLY good Benz for 5 000 MAX that would last you 5-10 years easily if you change the oil and all filters regularly. The other thing to do is baseline the car: When you get it, change oil, trans fluid, all filters, check brakes and fluid, do all the common maintenance thinbgs ONCE, so you have a chronological/historical baseline as to when they were completed.

Then you'll have a great car and no worries, just maintain. 

On Thu, 07 Feb 2008 20:37:23 -0000, lostintheflood2 wrote
> Hello Everyone, I joined this group a couple of days ago because we
> need to get a diesel vehicle and I've been looking at Mercedes Benz on
> various forums online for about a year.
>
> I've concluded that we need to either buy a 2000 or newer VW TDI, or
> an 80's version Benz TD.
>
> I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD, but we've never
> had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he has no interest
> in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a car that old (over
> 20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From reading the posts on
> here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what you do because you
> have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).
>
> Anyway, my question...if we could find a well-maintained 84 or 85
> Benz, would it mean constant maintenance, way more than a newer car?
> Would we be in danger of breaking down on a road trip?
>
> I realize these questions are subjective, but I'm just trying to
> understand the attraction of the older Benz cars to justify my
> interest and I want to know your thoughts.
>
> We've been driving a 2001 Camry since it was new and it's been a great
> car, but the days of diesel are here.
>
> So, please let me know what you think.
>
> Thanks,
> Lanni
>
>


--
WOW! Homepage (http://www.wowway.com)

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Delo 400 LE oil ??

The new CJ lube oils are a compromise as they do not have the same
additive package as the previous CI/CI-4 plus oils. Since yours is a
2003 model, I would look for the CI/CI-4 plus version as a preference,
but only as a preference for as long as it is available. The newer CJ-4
one will work. Being forced to buy CJ-4 is causing a slight uproar.

Try this on for size:

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/TDR57_Oil.pdf

Good chart on page 4 of 6.

Mike

Phillip wrote:
>
> I have been using Delo SAE 15W-40 for the past 10 years,
> I just got a new case and it now is [ Delo 400 LE low Emissin CJ-4 SAE
> 15W-40 ]
> Is this the same oil and will it be ok to use?
> Phillip
> 2003 Safari Sahra
>
>
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] I hope no one told me this was THAT easy...

strip hood,
 
Mine needs that too (forgot about that).  When I went to change the battery, hood pad mess was all over the place under there.  When it had the exhaust leak at the turbo, it blackened the area on the hood above it.  I'm going to get the old decaying stuff off and install a new hood pad.  It will be a lot quieter after that's done since the old stuff can't be absorbing too much noise.
 
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

Greetings,

From my perspective, if you don't love 'em, aren't
interested in working on them or paying an MB mechanic
to do so, better go for the VW.

On the other hand if you were to find an 83-85 with
less than 150K miles on it for sale by the original
owner, who has performed the scheduled maintenance as
required, at a reasonable price, then you should jump
on it.

By the way, when referring to MB cars of this era TD
would mean "Transport or Touring Diesel" what we call
a station wagon, not turbo charged diesel.

All 83-85, 300D, 300CD, 300TD, 300SD, and 300SDL cars
made for the North American market were turbo charged
diesels with automatic transmissions.

The 300 indicates 3.0 liter displacement with 5
cylinders.

W-123 indicates chassis model. (produced '76 - '85)
The 300D is a 4 door mid sized sedan.
The 300CD is a 2 door mid sized coupe.
The 300TD is a mid sized station wagon.

W-126 indicates chassis model. (produced '?? - '??)
The 300SD is a full sized 4 door saloon (sedan)
The 300SDL is a full sized 4 door saloon lang (long
sedan)

If this is more info than you need, my apologies.

Good luck!
daniel ... "Liesel" '84 300D Turbo

--- lostintheflood2 <lanni.johnson@verizon.net> wrote:

> Hello Everyone, I joined this group a couple of days
> ago because we
> need to get a diesel vehicle and I've been looking
> at Mercedes Benz on
> various forums online for about a year.
>
> I've concluded that we need to either buy a 2000 or
> newer VW TDI, or
> an 80's version Benz TD.
>
> I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD,
> but we've never
> had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he
> has no interest
> in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a
> car that old (over
> 20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From
> reading the posts on
> here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what
> you do because you
> have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).
>
> Anyway, my question...if we could find a
> well-maintained 84 or 85
> Benz, would it mean constant maintenance, way more
> than a newer car?
> Would we be in danger of breaking down on a road
> trip?
>
> I realize these questions are subjective, but I'm
> just trying to
> understand the attraction of the older Benz cars to
> justify my
> interest and I want to know your thoughts.
>
> We've been driving a 2001 Camry since it was new and
> it's been a great
> car, but the days of diesel are here.
>
> So, please let me know what you think.
>
> Thanks,
> Lanni
>
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

Hi Lanni. Well, most of us drive older cars because they "can" be
worked on without going to the dealer and the technology is basic as
opposed to futuristic and computerized and the cars can be bought for a
reasonable price. My daughter drives a 2004 VW turbo TDI in England and
loves it. The problem there is that her VW was built in Germany, the
ones we get in the US are built in Mexico (I think) and according to
Consumer Reports are very "unreliable". Talk to the average owner
though and they love them. The TDI engine was not allowed in the US
last year but is coming back this year in one model only but it will
have the Mercedes "blue tech" common rail technology which should make
it a fantastic engine.

I believe diesels are more reliable than corresponding gas engines and
will have fewer mechanical problems which it sounds as if you will have
to rely on a good private mechanic or the dealer. If you can find a
good private mechanic that specializes in the type of car you get you
will be financially better off. Good luck and let us know what you
decide and how you get along with the new car.

Others are going to have opinions on this also.

--
Stan George
Portland, Oregon
>>


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[diesel_mercedes] Question for you

Hello Everyone, I joined this group a couple of days ago because we
need to get a diesel vehicle and I've been looking at Mercedes Benz on
various forums online for about a year.

I've concluded that we need to either buy a 2000 or newer VW TDI, or
an 80's version Benz TD.

I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD, but we've never
had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he has no interest
in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a car that old (over
20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From reading the posts on
here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what you do because you
have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).

Anyway, my question...if we could find a well-maintained 84 or 85
Benz, would it mean constant maintenance, way more than a newer car?
Would we be in danger of breaking down on a road trip?

I realize these questions are subjective, but I'm just trying to
understand the attraction of the older Benz cars to justify my
interest and I want to know your thoughts.

We've been driving a 2001 Camry since it was new and it's been a great
car, but the days of diesel are here.

So, please let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Lanni



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Auxiliary Water Pump

Greetings,

The cashier girl here at the local MD dealer is a babe
too, must be a corporate thing.

Question is, how did you negotiate the 10% discount?

Wondering,
daniel ... "Liesel" '84 300D Turbo


--- Jeff Fennema <jeffcosmo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> > Had there been a secretary there , I'd asked for a
> _KISS_ with it....
> >
> That's why I like my local M-B dealer - a secretary
> with cleavage you could
> surf...and 10% off parts prices...how can you
> argue??
> Jeff
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] brakes

NO No. pins have years of crud.I don't think I can rebuild a caliper.Been spraying wd 40 on just pins.works till rain washes it off.

Jeff Fennema <jeffcosmo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> say I've got a drivers side rear brake that sticks.All I need to do is
> remove pins and clean and vasaline them.Can I just drive pins out and
> clean them with caliper in place on rotor?w126 I believe ATE.
>
Not likely to work. Best bet is to remove pads, pump pedal to extend pistons
(easier removal), then remove caliper and clean properly. And please use the
proper lubricant. Vaseline is likely to swell the seals, and you'll have to
do the above anyway...
Ma sells rebuild kits, and they're cheap.
Jeff



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