Re: [diesel_mercedes] Odometer problems

 

As I recall, DieselGiant had a repair video, or maybe it was an old Benz World posting with pics. Anyway, I would Google, or Bing, or xyz for "w123 odometer (or speedometer) repair" and see what turns up. They are fixable by you. I think MercedesSource may also have a video showing how to pull the instrument cluster out.  I have been meaning to pick up a spare instrument cluster from a PAP or Ebay and clean it up just so I can pop it in and then work on mine at my leisure.
 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's
From: tsgbike <tsgbike@msn.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 5, 2013 3:23 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Odometer problems

 
Hello all,

I purchased a 1983 MB 300 turbo diesel about a week ago. The car had 194,900 miles on it when I bought it. As I was driving the car the odometer stopped working when it hit 195,000 miles (precisely). Both the odometer and the trip odometer. I can push the reset button on the trip odometer and it will work for about a mile or so, as does the odometer. In a 42 mile commute I racked up about 10 miles by doing this.

One thing that I did that may have an impact was I was trying to adjust the dash lights (same knob) and may have turned it too far. The knob did pop off in my hand as well as the spring, but I just had to press it back on. May be unrelated since it went 50 miles after that before stopping to work.

Any ideas of what is happening and if I can fix it?

Thanks



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Odometer problems

 

the rightmost wheel is a press fit on the shaft. Through a set of secondary gears it turns the one to its left and so on. Mine has come loose several times. Fingernail polish, superglue (not recommended), epoxy, etc. Taking it apart is a fun exercise for guys like me. YMMV. Once the shaft is off, you can score it or deform it slightly or perhaps make it a little thicker at the right place by depositing a layer of solder on it. Of course, once it's off you can reset the mileage to anything you want. Just some ideas. This is what I like about these cars - they are so repairable.

Bogy.

--- On Tue, 4/16/13, c24052000 <jcrcpa@tx.rr.com> wrote:

> From: c24052000 <jcrcpa@tx.rr.com>
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Odometer problems
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, April 16, 2013, 9:38 PM
> if you press the trip reset button
> while the car is moving, it may/will break something in the
> odometer.  don't ask me how i know. I would assume that
> maybe the same function broke part of the spokes on the
> wheel and did not fully disable them. 
> just my humble opinion. 
>
> chuck
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com,
> "tsgbike" <tsgbike@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I purchased a 1983 MB 300 turbo diesel about a week
> ago.  The car had 194,900 miles on it when I bought
> it.  As I was driving the car the odometer stopped
> working when it hit 195,000 miles (precisely).  Both
> the odometer and the trip odometer.  I can push the
> reset button on the trip odometer and it will work for about
> a mile or so, as does the odometer.  In a 42 mile
> commute I racked up about 10 miles by doing this.
> >
> > One thing that I did that may have an impact was I was
> trying to adjust the dash lights (same knob) and may have
> turned it too far.  The knob did pop off in my hand as
> well as the spring, but I just had to press it back
> on.  May be unrelated since it went 50 miles after that
> before stopping to work.
> >
> > Any ideas of what is happening and if I can fix it?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     diesel_mercedes-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Odometer problems

 

if you press the trip reset button while the car is moving, it may/will break something in the odometer. don't ask me how i know. I would assume that maybe the same function broke part of the spokes on the wheel and did not fully disable them.
just my humble opinion.

chuck

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "tsgbike" <tsgbike@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I purchased a 1983 MB 300 turbo diesel about a week ago. The car had 194,900 miles on it when I bought it. As I was driving the car the odometer stopped working when it hit 195,000 miles (precisely). Both the odometer and the trip odometer. I can push the reset button on the trip odometer and it will work for about a mile or so, as does the odometer. In a 42 mile commute I racked up about 10 miles by doing this.
>
> One thing that I did that may have an impact was I was trying to adjust the dash lights (same knob) and may have turned it too far. The knob did pop off in my hand as well as the spring, but I just had to press it back on. May be unrelated since it went 50 miles after that before stopping to work.
>
> Any ideas of what is happening and if I can fix it?
>
> Thanks
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Brake line / hose connector screwed up

 

Since I'm assuming that you were planning on replacing at least the hose, try some heat from a very small torch flame applied to the metal end of the hose, even the heat from a propane or butane torch would usually cause the hose end to expand enough to allow you to loosen the nut.  First soak the line above the nut and and the hose connection liberally with Liquid Stench or whatever solvent that works for you.  The other problem in a situation like this is that the nut has rusted to the tube and turning the nut will twist the tube.  Before heating the area, be sure to wipe off all of the residual liquid, and as always, when working with flames under a car, keep some kind of fire extinguisher handy.  If you can get it apart, the condition of the hex on the nut doesn't really matter as long as you can get enough of a grip on it with a vise grip or whatever to tighten it. 


On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 6:10 PM, Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
 


German cars tend to have sheet metal clips holding the hose in place then the steel line screws into it , you have the loosen the line then carefully remove the sheet metal clip to get it all apart .

Pic would help here .

I wish I could be more specific but am not sure what you're working on @ there should be two rear brakes hoses as the suspension is independent .

-Nate
Jim wrote :
>
> OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then. Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line? Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : LED Lamp Question

 

On 4/6/2013 7:43 AM, Larry wrote:
> Some turn signal indicator lights use the turn signal bulb not in use
> to provide the return ground path for the indicator. If that is a LED,
> your turn signal indicator won't work. I have one of those in another
> vehicle. Don't know whether it applies to the Mercedes. Because the
> motor and alternator is running whenever the turn signal is flashing,
> it doesn't help the battery. I'm a LED fan, but the turn signal LED
> won't save many dinosa

There are new "replacement" flashers that are electronic and "do not
depend on load" to flash. Down side is you don't have any indication
that your signal bulbs are burned out. NAPA carries these among others.

--
Stan George Portland <<

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Brake line / hose connector screwed up

 

This will sound crazy.  However, sometimes if you apply torque in tightening direction (just a bit), you can then loosen a threaded item.

Good luck,

Fred

From: n61cm <jim@tazwade.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, April 16, 2013 6:31:04 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Brake line / hose connector screwed up

 

The 11mm fitting on the left rear brake line is stuck and now stripped.

I was swapping out the caliper. Brake hose is fine, so I just screwed the new caliper onto the hose without removing the hose from the steel brake line. But then the hose was a corkscrew when I went to put the caliper back on, so I tried to loosen the hose at the connection with the steel line. 14mm hose 11mm line. Stuck tight. Real tight. Several coats of penetrating oil, then the 11mm nut stripped on the outside. Would not come apart no matter what. Even tried vice grips, that sucker is stuck tight. I don't want to completely crunch it up until I have the parts and tools to fix it back. But I don't know what size brake line, unions, fittings, etc. to get and what flare tool to get.

Jim

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> German cars tend to have sheet metal clips holding the hose in place then the steel line screws into it , you have the loosen the line then carefully remove the sheet metal clip to get it all apart .
>
> Pic would help here .
>
> I wish I could be more specific but am not sure what you're working on @ there should be two rear brakes hoses as the suspension is independent .
>
> -Nate
> Jim wrote :
> >
> > OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then. Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line? Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Brake line / hose connector screwed up

 

The 11mm fitting on the left rear brake line is stuck and now stripped.

I was swapping out the caliper. Brake hose is fine, so I just screwed the new caliper onto the hose without removing the hose from the steel brake line. But then the hose was a corkscrew when I went to put the caliper back on, so I tried to loosen the hose at the connection with the steel line. 14mm hose 11mm line. Stuck tight. Real tight. Several coats of penetrating oil, then the 11mm nut stripped on the outside. Would not come apart no matter what. Even tried vice grips, that sucker is stuck tight. I don't want to completely crunch it up until I have the parts and tools to fix it back. But I don't know what size brake line, unions, fittings, etc. to get and what flare tool to get.

Jim

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> German cars tend to have sheet metal clips holding the hose in place then the steel line screws into it , you have the loosen the line then carefully remove the sheet metal clip to get it all apart .
>
> Pic would help here .
>
> I wish I could be more specific but am not sure what you're working on @ there should be two rear brakes hoses as the suspension is independent .
>
> -Nate
> Jim wrote :
> >
> > OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then. Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line? Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Fuel Economy Check 1984 300CD Auto

 


Some AC used , lots of mixed driving and most of the freeway sppeds around 85 + MPH

White bottle Diesel Kleen Cetane Booster used .

336 miles , 25.8 MPG .

-nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Brake line / hose connector screwed up

 


German cars tend to have sheet metal clips holding the hose in place then the steel line screws into it , you have the loosen the line then carefully remove the sheet metal clip to get it all apart .

Pic would help here .

I wish I could be more specific but am not sure what you're working on @ there should be two rear brakes hoses as the suspension is independent .

-Nate
Jim wrote :
>
> OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then. Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line? Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Brake line / hose connector screwed up

 

OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then. Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line? Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?

Thanks,

Jim

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1957 Bond

 

great link, thanks...spent an hour looking at it

--- On Mon, 4/15/13, corvallis@peoplepc.com <corvallis@peoplepc.com> wrote:

From: corvallis@peoplepc.com <corvallis@peoplepc.com>
Subject: RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1957 Bond
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 9:07 AM



At bottom of this link;  Bond …James Bond

http://classiccarweekly.wordpress.com/tag/mk-d/

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 5:58 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: So. Cal. Car Show Sunday 4/14

 

Yep ;

Little British Car .

There were even TWO Bond tri wheel cars ~ these have the look of a tiny automobile but only two wheels in the back , in front is a 198 C.C. Villiers two stroke Motocycle engine mounted on a pivoting bracket thing that's connected to a steering wheel via a worm gear..

This makes it technically a Motocycle and so co$t$ far less to register . no heater , no radio , no _REVERSE_ .

Of course , it _does_ have a normal looking front sheet metal , two head lights , wildly exaggerated pontoon fenders , grille and bumper , windshield with wipers , two doors etc. just like a ' real ' car .

Google " Reliant " to see the newer and more popular vehicles of this typ .

Someone tried very hard to legally import them new in the 1970's , those I remember quite well , the Califonia DMV said _no_ .

The Bond I liked so much was a 1957 tiny little thing .

-Nate

 

 



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