Re: [diesel_mercedes] Today's ultra low sulfer diesel

 

Others will chip in I am sure. As for me and my house, we add some lubricity at every fill up. I put 4 or 5 ounces of MMO and / or Diesel Kleen. But I am not against using peanut oil, or ATF, or something else in a pinch.
 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's

From: rwillman18 <rwillman18@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 6:13 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Today's ultra low sulfer diesel

 
Quick question...

I am close to the purchase of a 1985 300 turbo diesel...any issue using today's "modern" diesel do I need additve in the winter if I need to start it. I am in South East Wisconsin.



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[diesel_mercedes] Today's ultra low sulfer diesel

 

Quick question...

I am close to the purchase of a 1985 300 turbo diesel...any issue using today's "modern" diesel do I need additve in the winter if I need to start it. I am in South East Wisconsin.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Trish's Find

 

I just thought it was cool. I'm not interested in it.  We were there cuz the owner had some MB he was parting out. We just came from p.a.p. and wondered what this guy had.  He had a car just like mine only white that needs a head. He wants $800 for it.  I didn't look so I don't know about tires, interior, etc, etc nor why it needs a head...hmmm that means over heated and we've sadly been through bad heads on too many of our prior vehicles.  I'll stick to looking for parts for my current car till I land a job then look out!


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[diesel_mercedes] Trish's Find

 


That's a ' Ponton ' , a very nice old Mercedes indeed but absolutely _worthless_ in this condition sad to say .

You can buy a decent runner with good paint etc. for about $3,000.00 and you'll not get that one back on the road for less than $2,500.00 in parts alone so for now , stick to up fixin' your current ride then if the big bites badly , go get that one or another , they're here & there once you know to look .

Rusty floors means DEAD ~ JUNK .

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/recent/350267852/view

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Window Lift Repair Kit

 


O.K. , I went over toETY for some more Fuel Intake Screens to - day and Allen has this kit of white plastic slider and aluminum rivet for $5 ~ I was wondering how you bucked the new rivet as steel rivets are really hard and require two special tools and a BFH .

I think I'll just use junkyard window lifts as they're cheap and so many nearly new ones in the junkers .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Emergency Breakdown Help. Leak Found and Fixed (temporary)

 



Rob,

I have been reading about the hose replacement and it sounds like a bear of a job.

For now my patch is working great. I am as far as Lousiana and not a sign of a leak.

Do you have a prefered source on the oil line?

Chip
Covington, Lousiana (for the night)

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : Window Lift Slider Replacement

 

correction: ordered window slides there were 2 in package, from mercedes source, and a couple of other things

chuck

Products on order:

1 x 126 Window Regulator Plastic Slide Replacement Kit - $19.50

Model: BDP-126WRS

1 x 124 126 and 201 Fuse Kit Upgrade - $19.95

Model: ELT-COMFKU124

1 x 617 300SD 300D 300CD TD Bosch Pencil Glow Plugs - Set of 5 with instructions - $69.95

Model: DSL-5BOSCH039


--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@...> wrote:
>
> on the first window I did, the parts were from dealer, this window I bought from ???. I think performance products, because I was ordering the hood springs at the same time. I will try to remember to look up from whom it was purchased. If I were closer to the dealer and that part is all I wanted, I would just buy from dealer, to save shipping. They are 4 - 8 dollars at performance products. The dealer was a little higher.
>
> chuck
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > No worries Chuck ;
> >
> > This explanation is as clear as glass .
> >
> > Where didja get the parts ? .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Chuck wrote:
> > >
> > > Tom,
> > > I re-read the question, I may have missed something in my answer. The rivet and the plastic piece come together. This is why the rivet has to be drilled out of the arm. Ask again if I am not answering the questions you have.
> > >
> > > As a follow up. the rivet piece is concave, so the ball peen hammer takes those outer high edges and flattens them to push down on the arm thereby securing the arm to the slide.
> > >
> > > The problem is lack of room to swing the hammer. Or the jewelry hammer I was using was too lightweight. Which is why I may have to do the repair again.
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I drilled out the old male protrusion from the lift arm. Grinder on drill to level out, and then drill bit to punch it out and enlarge the hole a bit. The replace ment piece fits in the slide, raise or lower winder to line up pieces, and then take a ballpeen hammer to flatten out the metal that is sticking out like an axle. What you are doing is similar to a rivet.
> > > >
> > > > swmbo does jewelry, so I have seen her do this with her craft.
> > > >
> > > > I did not get it real tight because of the lack of room, but I don't think there is a lot of in/out pressure only left/right. If it fails again, I have a second repair piece. Some sites say to take out the lift and flatten the connection. I was afraid I would never get it back in.
> > > >
> > > > The first time I did the repair on another window, I drilled out the connector from both the arm and the slide, and replaced it with a nut and bolt. It hasn't failed, and that was the driver's window.
> > > >
> > > > I had to fix the window because swmbo said it looked like _____ to have tape holding up the window. The tape was clear not duct tape!!!
> > > >
> > > > The door panel is tricky also. unscrew everything, lift up with a putty knife from the back and front to elevate the clips straight up to release the panel.
> > > >
> > > > Chuck
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Chuck,
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm fascinated by your comment about the window lift. Nate just
> > > > > replace the lift units in the driver's side front and rear doors (300SD). The
> > > > > plastic slide in the rear door had split. We couldn't see anyway for it to
> > > > > be a replacement part. So we P-a-P'd a 'new' rear lift.
> > > > >
> > > > > Were you able to replace just the plastic slide piece? If so, HOW did
> > > > > you get it over the large rivet head that it fits around?
> > > > >
> > > > > The 300SD front door lift had broken two rivets, rather than the
> > > > > plastic slide piece.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tom
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > In a message dated 12/20/2011 1:06:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > > > > jcrcpa@ writes:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > On Sunday I finally repaired the rear window lift mechanism (the plastic
> > > > > slide had split in two)cheap part, my labor, also replaced the air cleaner
> > > > > mounts, replaced the two hood springs, and my aux fan switch arrived so that
> > > > > is next. Now I need to order the air cleaner mount bracket which has one
> > > > > end broken off, and a new antenna.
> > > > >
> > > > > Chuck
> > > > > 84-300sd
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Check out the OLD MB I saw at a lot

 

The year and model number are always on the tag located on the drivers door post. You can also grab the VIN and do a search on the internet. And, Kent from mercedessource has pictures of all models posted on their website. As I recall, the Classic Center has pictures on their website (the German site, and maybe the Irvine site too)
 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's

From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 1:59 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Check out the OLD MB I saw at a lot

 
I posted 2 pics of an OLD MB we saw yesterday at a lot.  Check it out and tell me what year it is, I have no idea, the lot owner wasn't there to ask. 

They're posted in the group photos under Trish's...

It would take a lot of labor and love but it sure could be a cool car.  This guy had a bunch of MB's.  Many really cool ones. 

--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com



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[diesel_mercedes] Check out the OLD MB I saw at a lot

 

I posted 2 pics of an OLD MB we saw yesterday at a lot.  Check it out and tell me what year it is, I have no idea, the lot owner wasn't there to ask. 

They're posted in the group photos under Trish's...

It would take a lot of labor and love but it sure could be a cool car.  This guy had a bunch of MB's.  Many really cool ones. 

--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Difference between chassis's

 

Everything you ever wanted to know about w123's and w126's.

http://tinyurl.com/7n44vob (w123)
http://tinyurl.com/6tddxvc (W126)
 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's

From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 12:03 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Difference between chassis's

 
OK we've got all the parts we need to put my 81 300D back on the road as a turbo.

Kevin wants to knows specifically in reference to the motor and trans, what is the difference between the 123 & 116 chassis's?  We've been digging around online and look at them when we go to the pap's. 

We already have the tail pipe piece we need since we know that hook up is different.


--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Difference between chassis's

 

Trish, 
 
    The 116 is the predecessor to the 126 - bigger, longer, heavier than the 123. 
 
    For the turbo diesel drive train, the parts should be mostly interchangeable.  May need different motor mounts and things.  The transmission in the 126 uses vacuum modulation, while the 123 used a mechanical link.  I expect, but I don't actually know, that the 116 is also mechanical, rather than vacuum. 
 
    Happy holidays, I'm burning up a bunch of kerosine to get out of Dodge for a couple of weeks. 
 
Tom 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 12/22/2011 12:03:44 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com writes:
 

OK we've got all the parts we need to put my 81 300D back on the road as a turbo.

Kevin wants to knows specifically in reference to the motor and trans, what is the difference between the 123 & 116 chassis's?  We've been digging around online and look at them when we go to the pap's. 

We already have the tail pipe piece we need since we know that hook up is different.


--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Difference between chassis's

 

OK we've got all the parts we need to put my 81 300D back on the road as a turbo.

Kevin wants to knows specifically in reference to the motor and trans, what is the difference between the 123 & 116 chassis's?  We've been digging around online and look at them when we go to the pap's. 

We already have the tail pipe piece we need since we know that hook up is different.


--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

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