Posted by: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net>
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This group provides a forum for owners and operators of diesel powered motorhomes and 5th wheel tractors to discuss mechanical issues, regulatory issues (US, Canada), ownership, insurance, campground accommodations, trip reports/suggestions, and other topics relevant to large RVs and the people who drive them.
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I got some new keys for my 1983 w123 300d (Martha) because the keys were sticking and it looked like trouble was brewing in the ignition after 300,000 miles. Turned out the tumbler needed to be replaced also as it was apparently replaced by the previous owner so I had one key that worked the doors and trunk, and another key worked the ignition (but it was for the wrong VIN #). So, here is the best Youtube video I found on easy replacement, and then I bumped into a series of general videos you might enjoy. ps the keys and tumbler came from Tom at the Classic Center.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2kAIA2-sZ8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBqAwtYIuLI&list=PLfNskwbxaXz7lfMRlLNZNqiHLF1vbekxp
brian from laverne
Twin 1983 w123 300d's
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Nate: Thanks for noticing me. You are right about recycling dirty fluid or fluid laced with water. It's a very bad idea. But the long hose is still very necessary when your bleeding brakes by yourself. It allows you to see when the bubble stream of air bubbles ends. I have a solution to this that I didn't mention because the email was getting rather long. But as long as we're on the topic I'll mention it here now. With a little bit of clever rigging you can put a can of brake fluid upside down into the master cylinder reservoir and let it blurp out like the water does in the big 5 gallon containers at the water cooler at work. I use one of those big arrow shaped welding magnets that you can get at Harbor Freight in the welding department. Of course a can of brake fluid has to be made out of steel for it to work. Drain the reservoir before you start, fill it with clean fluid and then put the can in upside down. When the fluid in the long bit of clear hose turns clean and the air bubbles stop, you're done with that tire. You waste a little bit more fluid this way than if you have someone at the tire opening and closing the bleeder nipple. But you can do it yourself this way and I don't buy $20 a quart brake fluid. Always looking for a better way, |
I always try to support my local smaller Partshaus' , ETY in Eagle Rock , Ca. is very good indeed and gives me a deep discount because I buy so much product from them . I keep trying to talk Allen into supplying my old British Car Parts too but he knows nothing about them and is unwilling to try a new thing . Anyways , I got the job done to - day in just under three hours , this incuded jacking up the car , setting the safety stands , sweeping the driveway of leaves and a goodly amount of time spent laboriously cleaning all that fine black rubber silt out of the crevices in the brake fluid resivoir ~ I used alcohol and some DOT 3 brake fluid after the alcohol as I didn't want even a trace of it left behind . The job is quite straight forward and only takes a handful of basic hand tools , I filled it with ATE Super 200 DOT 4 brake fluid as the U.S. DOT has decided that the U.S. of A. is the ONLY place in the entire world that doesn't like blue coloring in their brake fluid...... I am sure Dow Chemical Et Al had nothing to do with this as they don't make blue brake fluid but I digress again.... Including the $70 (Italian) master cylinder , the $20 liter of Ate Super 200 brake fluid , a $1 bottle of alcohol from the Dollar Store and the $50 pressure bleeder I bought several years ago , I am still in the job less than 1/2 of the cost of having some shop that doesn't care about my old Mercedes and would certainly never take the time to flush the whole system and wash the inside of the brake fluid resivoir.... This is a basic DIY driveway job . My brake pedal is once again 1/2" from rest to locked up brakes . BTW : Bogy proposed very clever system of brake bleeding using a long bit of hose but this re circulates the old , dirty moisture laden brake fluid and this is a very bad thing indeed ~ brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it sucks moisture right out of the air , this is why it's so important to fully flush and replace the brake fluid in any vehicle new or old , every two or three years . Please take it easy Max ~ I'm still hard at it and I have to rest or quit far more often than I'd like but we're not 35 years old anymore and you have some serious issues with the knee and hip IIRC . -Nate Max wrote : Yea well, I get the leg back after August. Put the crutches back in the closet. Arizonaautohaus, thought you used that site. I've bought Mercedes parts from them for years. Ordered a master cylinder today. Max |
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