Diesel RVs: 11/23/14

I'm curious how difficult these projects could be & if the degree is too high, what's a reputable shop that people know of (I'm in Ohio but I'm sure it wld be sent out) - lastly, how much I should expect a shop to charge if I sent it out to them. I guess I should add that if I sent the cluster out for repair, I would also have the gauge faces put back to black - someone swapped them out at some point for white (not sure if I could do this).

Thanks much in advance - I've learned a ton over the years reading all the emails that fly back & forth & have enjoyed the adventures / antics of this membership.

- Chris

Cincinnati, Oh

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Posted by: Chris Bodley <chrbod@yahoo.com>

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[diesel_mercedes] Rescue tape and a clamp fixed the leak...but...

I'm no longer losing hydraulic fluid as I used rescue tape wrapped around the high pressure hose behind the radiator fan. I also used a hose clamp. Dry as a bone. However I'm still getting streaks of hydraulic fluid up the top of my hood on both sides of my grill. My air intake is moist. The top of the hydraulic canister is damp but not one other part of the engine compartment is wet with fluid. I theorize that the fluid is coming from part of the half gallon that spewed in the engine compartment and trapped in the hood under cover. It is now through the force of gravity migrating to the front of the hood and up and out on each side of the grille. Anybody got any other ideas. That's all I can figure and it is clear fluid and I'm not losing any of my other fluids. Seems that hydraulic fluid doesn't contain a solvent that will take down the hood under cover. Lawrence Rhodes

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Posted by: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net>

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[diesel_mercedes] Yesterdays Fixes on Mary

A new Hood Pad installed with 3M's super glue ($50 for the pad, $25 for the 3M). Never can get a hood perfectly centered, always 1" off this way or that way. Oh well, next time. And, a new jug of anti-freeze. Why, you say? Well here is why. A month ago I drained the radiator and did a little acidic flush, but when tightening the plastic radiator plug, the head of the plug broke off - never have understood why they did not make a metal plug - so yesterday I got to drill out the plastic plug body and use my new Lowe's tool to unscrew the plug.

Went to put on the new improved muffler hangers (280 style) but discovered it was more of a PIA than I wanted to deal with at the moment. Will save that job for when I change the air filter cleaner and tighten down the T-bracket again, probably next week. Then, maybe a valve adjust, oil change, and rear driver door check replacement.

Now, the real question is this: why does my wifes 83 300d have absolutely no issue with glow plugs (starts and stops with almost NO waiting time for glow plug heating). Yet my 83 300d (on good days) takes 10 - 15 seconds for the relay to "clunk" and start. On bad days (10% of the time), I don't even get a light or clunk and recycling does not work either. It will start with compression heating the cylinder in those 10% cases, but not by glow plug heating. Yes, I have a spare relay, but someone tell me what is going on. Why does my wifes 300d start (almost immediately) without glow plugs, and my 300d have challenges?

Brian from LaVerne

Twin 83 300d's

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Posted by: bstromsoe@yahoo.com

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