[diesel_mercedes] RE: Sylvia - 1984 300SD - 300K/mi service + mileage check

 


Glad to hear you have a Mechanic you can trust ~ these days that's hard .


Spring will be here soon and you'll be well pleased you did all this .


BTW : an _honest_ Speedo Shop will charge you under $200 to fix the odometer .


-Nate 

       Barton Wrote ;



 

It's time I put some updates out here on Sylvia - as many of you know the odo has been busted for some time so I've been logging the amount of fuel going in and assuming an average of 22.5mpg ever since. Assuming those figures are correct, last month it was time for the 300,000 mile service. I've also mentioned a few other ailments, so I made a list, allocated a set budget and contacted my favorite Benzomatic automagician and begged for a few days of his time.....here's what got done....

Symptom: Engine won't shut off, glow plug light won't go off, battery draining...

New vacuum pump ($394.00 + labor)
New glow plug relay ($240 + labor)

Quote from service invoice: "Re-tightened all 9 electrical pin bushings and terminals which were loose from improper removal/testing by non-qualified technician. Test individual glow plugs, replaced glow plug relay. Glow plug light now goes out normally"

Complete Filter service & Fluid hot drain / fluid flush:

Engine: Repl filter, seal ring + 8.5 qts Mobile1 5W-40 ESP: $100.05 + labor
Trans: Repl: pan (warped), gasket, filter + 9QT fluid: $80.10 + labor
Brake: Castrol GTMA, 1 Quart: $19.35 + labor
Power Steering: filter + 3 quarts P/S fluid: $19.35 + labor
Rear transaxle: Flush, fill w/ 2 Qts 75w/90 Syn lube: $33.78 + labor
Coolant system: Drain, flush, 1.5 Gal Antifreeze/MB Blue: $52.95 + labor
New radiator cap: $12.50
Air filter: $38.25
Fuel Filters: front/rear: $22.55 / $6.04

Adjust/check all belts
Inspect brakes, exhaust system, check tire wear and suspension prior to inspection

Install customer supplied emergency flasher switch (defective)
New emergency switch + turn signal / hazard relay: $47.50 + $114.00 + labor

Driver side hood latch lubricated/adjusted (no charge!!)

Install used exterior door handle pulls & locks (I can now lock my car again!)

Repair corroded terminals on right rear tail light cluster, solder new bridge.

After all the work above, I took it for a shakedown cruise from home to Boston to Providence and back home at an average speed of 65mph - 70mph....I was able to track the miles via GPS and got the best MPG Sylvia's ever clocked @ 27.5 MPG. I'm attributing that to the Mobil1 and less so to the shiny new trans and transaxle flushes. At this rate, if I get an extra 3-5 MPG, the various oils will more than pay for themselves.

Still need to be done (prior to inspection on Feb 29, 2014 - hooray for LeapDay

    -Replace entire exhaust: $1600 including labor
    -Right front upper control arm: $750 including labor
    -Front end alignment: $75.00
    -Replace parking brake cables, shoes + pivot: $550 including labor
    -Replace front windshield and seals: $800

That's it for now, happy motoring...


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] No Cold Start Again

 


Glowing for one minute is too long , the relay shuts off after 30 +/- seconds IIRC .


Only cranking it for 10 / 15 seconds before giving up floods it and yes , you _CAN_ flood a Diesel engine by injecting too much fuel and not allowing it to burn off ~ you didn't mention it coughing or trying to start one one cylinder , black puffs of smoke etc. so I imagine you're not following the cold starting drill 100 % ~ my first Mercedes Diesel was a totally clapped out NA 5 cylinder Coupe , it was hard to start when at or below 40° F until I learned to trust Mercedes and follow their regimen 100 % ~ glow the plugs twice , hold the throttle to the floor and crank until the engine began running on all 5 cylinders , this caused it to belch out a HUGE cloud of noxious black smoke the AQMD went crazy about but once I got it running and learned the proper regimen , that P.O.S. started every morning reliably until I sold it .


The Primary Fuel Filter is a clear plastic screen in the flexible fuel hose between the body and the primer pump .



-Nate


       Mike Wrote :

I am cranking it with the throttle down as the manual directs. Sometimes I let it glow for one minute. It does not crank like a6 volt and I have a new battery. I also crank it for 10 to 15 seconds so as to not burn out the starter. I think the fuel the fuel filter is more bluish and it's not black.

The intake screen I'm not sure what it is!

I have been on a full tank of diesel fuel with the proper diesel Kleen in the white bottle and I haven't had any problems since and it has been 10 to 15 degrees.

Maybe it is just a shame on me for letting the tank go too low and without the proper additive?



 

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1981 240D Running Problems

 


Bummer Roland ;

Yes , weepy fuel return hoses will cause rough and odd running problems .

Several times whilst 100 + miles from home in our 240D full of SWMBO & kids , it began to run oddly and I'd smell Diesel Fuel , popping the hood showed me a weepy hose , I try to keep 4' + in the car at all times but it always seems I wind up using it and forgetting until the next far from home problem several years later .

Once in a while the injector proper begins to leak mid way down where the bodies halves come together . this IMO means it's time for a new injector .

-Nate



Roland Wrote :

Nate (and others interested):

Sorry for the long post, but it has been a 3 year problem.

I have written about the goofy stalling problems I've had with my 1981
240D stick. Here's what I wrote on a mercedes forum 3 years ago:

Here we go again guys:

I hope I can do this without too lengthy an explanation because hunt and
peck is a terrible way to go.

My 1981 240D suddenly got squirrelly at idle a few days ago. It would
seemingly run fine at speed, but when slowing down to idle it seemed as
if it were running on 2 or 3 cylinders - really rough. Using the
throttle I could rev it a little and it would seemingly smooth out and
be OK - until last night. I think if I let it go long enough it would
have stalled. I looked at the engine and there was a lot of fuel all
over #1 injector. I tightened the nuts fastening the lines to the
injectors, hoping that loose fittings were leaking fuel. No change. I
suffered it for a few days until last night. It was pretty much running
the same way - badly at idle - until I drove into my brother's yard to
show him the situation. It was idling really badly. Finally it
stalled. I got it started and stumbled 700 feet to my place across the
road. It stalled as I slowed to pull into my driveway. I couldn't get
it started and keep it running to pull into the driveway, so I left it
at the end of the driveway for the night.

Do I have 2 problems? It seems as if the fuel return lines are wet and
maybe seeping. It appeared that the fuel on #1 injector was above the
terminal where the return line fit on and above the nut boss for
disassembling the injector, which is why I initially suspected a leaking
line nut. Can severely leaking return lines cause the problem I'm
having? I think not, but certainly don't know.

It seemed as if the problem got worse as the engine warmed up. It
pretty much started normally - it's moderately cold - and ran OK for a
little bit. 3 miles into town for the first stop at a light and the
idle was bad.

I'm somewhat baffled with no direct experience with this condition. Of
course I suspect fuel. But, because full power operation seems
somewhere near normal, I'm mentally eliminating the usual suspects like,
filters plugged. I just went out to try to start it and move it into
the driveway. It took a couple of trys after it having stalled last
night (fuel starvation?) and then it started and I drove it into the
driveway. It seemed normal. I had it on high idle with the manual cold
idle adjust. It's about 40 this morning. When I lowered the idle with
the manual adjust it was idling normally.

I inadvertently pulled the return line at the first injector, the one
that returns to the filter, because it came off so easily. Clearly,
that explains the leakage around that fitting. However, I expected fuel
to spurt out of the fitting on the injector. It did not. I'd say it
sputtered out. It was not anything like a stream.

Anyone have a clue about what might be going on here.

Roland Hyatt

Then I recently posted this:


3 years ago I posted the below missive - or should I say, "massive" -
about an intermittent stalling problem. Well, it's now been 2 weeks
since I think I found and fixed the problem, because there hasn't been a
recurrence since. It has plagued me off and on for 3 years. Even to
the point that I didn't use the car much - it was too unreliable. It
would always restart when it stalled, but what a hassle. I had a
thought, as always and as others had suggested along the way, that it
sure seemed like fuel starvation. Lately I have been chasing a vacuum
issue that I suspected may be activating the shutoff on the pump. Wrong!

One day, as it happens, I was daydreaming about the problem and
solutions. Eureka! The fuel primer pump. I had never looked at it
because it wasn't leaking. But frustration is the mother of invention.
I jumped over and worked it - it was the old style - thinking that I
might realign an O ring. As soon as I pumped, it leaked like a sieve.
I had one of the new style and 10 minutes later it was replaced. It
hasn't stalled since.

Here's the irony..... This morning I was looking in the archives to find
my original post. Along the way I found one in 2006 from Christopher in
reply to a question about stalling from Barry:
" Is there a fuel leak as well? I am wondering if the primer pump is
leaking air... " Duh!

So, another for the archives. While mine was not leaking fuel, it was
obviously sucking air from time to time.

Onward and upward - only 3 years to solve the problem.

Roland Hyatt


So, Nate, it appears the problem is solved as it has been over 2 weeks
of near daily, cold weather driving, without a stall. It was fuel all
right. My experience may help someone else.

Happy New Year!

Roland Hyatt
with a bunch of klatta klatta Mercedes in Fallon, Nevada



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[diesel_mercedes] No Messages ?

 

It's Thursday 1/2 8:42 PM and no messages on the home page......

Is this just one more yahoo goof ? .

-Nate

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] No Cold Start Again

 

I'm thinking you may have had some water in the fuel. Water suddenly
changes solid at 32F. Nothing will move.
Diesel gells at a lower temp. It will creep along, starting, stopping,
not getting full fuel.

Possibly some of the additives absorbed the water.

Carl

On 1/2/2014 8:28 PM, Michael E. Williams wrote:
>
> I am cranking it with the throttle down as the manual directs.
> Sometimes I let it glow for one minute. It does not crank like a6 volt
> and I have a new battery. I also crank it for 10 to 15 seconds so as
> to not burn out the starter. I think the fuel the fuel filter is more
> bluish and it's not black.
>
> The intake screen I'm not sure what it is!
>
> I have been on a full tank of diesel fuel with the proper diesel Kleen
> in the white bottle and I haven't had any problems since and it has
> been 10 to 15 degrees.
>
> Maybe it is just a shame on me for letting the tank go too low and
> without the proper additive?
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> *From: * vwnate1@yahoo.com <vwnate1@yahoo.com>;
> *To: * <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>;
> *Subject: * [diesel_mercedes] No Cold Start Again
> *Sent: * Wed, Jan 1, 2014 3:52:19 PM
>
>
>
> O.K. ;
>
>
> So , you cycle the glow plugs then hold the throttle to the floor and
> operate the starter , it turns over O.K. , not sluggishly but never
> coughs ? no black puffs from the exhaust ? .
>
>
> Or , does it s l o w l y crank over like it's a 6 volt ? .
>
>
> Or . do you only hold onto the starter for a few moments then stop
> because you're worried about overheating the starter ? .
>
>
> Is the clear plastic intake screen full of bluish fuel or black coffee
> looking stuff or tiny chinks of miniature coal ? .
>
>
> You _DO_ have a clear plastic intake screen , right ? _RIGHT_ ?! .
>
>
> I know there's an answer in there somewhere , we just have to keep
> picking away at the details until we find it .
>
>
> If you have electricity anywhere near the car , put an old tech hair
> dryer blowing warm/hot air into the air intake ducts .
>
>
> Me , I'da dumped in the entire bottle of Diesel Kleen while it was
> running then after a good 30 minutes , I'da driven it to fill the fuel
> tank with fresh Diesel Fuel .
>
>
> -Nate
>
>
> Mike Wrote :
>
> At about 4 o'clock today when it was about 55 degrees in the garage it
> started up again and it has been running since. I didn't put the white
> bottle of diesel kleen last time and it was down below a quarter tank.
> When it stoped running it was about 20 degrees and had been sitting in
> 20 degree weather for about 6 hours. I don't know if this is another
> example of diesel fuel gelling or freezing or something but it is
> running now.
>
> I had tried the red bottle diesel 911 but it didn't do any good. I
> also had put diesel heat in the tank before this happened. I hope I
> didn't cause any damage.
>
> Thank you thank you for your help.
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> **
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Sylvia - 1984 300SD - 300K/mi service + mileage check

 

It's time I put some updates out here on Sylvia - as many of you know the odo has been busted for some time so I've been logging the amount of fuel going in and assuming an average of 22.5mpg ever since. Assuming those figures are correct, last month it was time for the 300,000 mile service. I've also mentioned a few other ailments, so I made a list, allocated a set budget and contacted my favorite Benzomatic automagician and begged for a few days of his time.....here's what got done....

Symptom: Engine won't shut off, glow plug light won't go off, battery draining...

New vacuum pump ($394.00 + labor)
New glow plug relay ($240 + labor)

Quote from service invoice: "Re-tightened all 9 electrical pin bushings and terminals which were loose from improper removal/testing by non-qualified technician. Test individual glow plugs, replaced glow plug relay. Glow plug light now goes out normally"

Complete Filter service & Fluid hot drain / fluid flush:

Engine: Repl filter, seal ring + 8.5 qts Mobile1 5W-40 ESP: $100.05 + labor
Trans: Repl: pan (warped), gasket, filter + 9QT fluid: $80.10 + labor
Brake: Castrol GTMA, 1 Quart: $19.35 + labor
Power Steering: filter + 3 quarts P/S fluid: $19.35 + labor
Rear transaxle: Flush, fill w/ 2 Qts 75w/90 Syn lube: $33.78 + labor
Coolant system: Drain, flush, 1.5 Gal Antifreeze/MB Blue: $52.95 + labor
New radiator cap: $12.50
Air filter: $38.25
Fuel Filters: front/rear: $22.55 / $6.04

Adjust/check all belts
Inspect brakes, exhaust system, check tire wear and suspension prior to inspection

Install customer supplied emergency flasher switch (defective)
New emergency switch + turn signal / hazard relay: $47.50 + $114.00 + labor

Driver side hood latch lubricated/adjusted (no charge!!)

Install used exterior door handle pulls & locks (I can now lock my car again!)

Repair corroded terminals on right rear tail light cluster, solder new bridge.

After all the work above, I took it for a shakedown cruise from home to Boston to Providence and back home at an average speed of 65mph - 70mph....I was able to track the miles via GPS and got the best MPG Sylvia's ever clocked @ 27.5 MPG. I'm attributing that to the Mobil1 and less so to the shiny new trans and transaxle flushes. At this rate, if I get an extra 3-5 MPG, the various oils will more than pay for themselves.

Still need to be done (prior to inspection on Feb 29, 2014 - hooray for LeapDay

    -Replace entire exhaust: $1600 including labor
    -Right front upper control arm: $750 including labor
    -Front end alignment: $75.00
    -Replace parking brake cables, shoes + pivot: $550 including labor
    -Replace front windshield and seals: $800

That's it for now, happy motoring...


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] No Cold Start Again

 

I am cranking it with the throttle down as the manual directs. Sometimes I let it glow for one minute. It does not crank like a6 volt and I have a new battery. I also crank it for 10 to 15 seconds so as to not burn out the starter. I think the fuel the fuel filter is more bluish and it's not black.

The intake screen I'm not sure what it is!

I have been on a full tank of diesel fuel with the proper diesel Kleen in the white bottle and I haven't had any problems since and it has been 10 to 15 degrees.

Maybe it is just a shame on me for letting the tank go too low and without the proper additive?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android


From: vwnate1@yahoo.com <vwnate1@yahoo.com>;
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] No Cold Start Again
Sent: Wed, Jan 1, 2014 3:52:19 PM

 



O.K. ;


So , you cycle the glow plugs then hold the throttle to the floor and operate the starter , it turns over O.K. , not sluggishly but never coughs ?  no black puffs from the exhaust ? .


Or , does it s l o w l y crank over like it's a 6 volt ? .


Or . do you only hold onto the starter for a few moments then stop because you're worried about overheating the starter ? .


Is the clear plastic intake screen full of bluish fuel or black coffee looking stuff or tiny chinks of miniature coal ? .


You _DO_ have a clear plastic intake screen , right ?  _RIGHT_ ?! .


I know there's an answer in there somewhere , we just have to keep picking away at the details until we find it .


If you have electricity anywhere near the car , put an old tech hair dryer blowing warm/hot air into the air intake ducts .


Me , I'da dumped in the entire bottle of Diesel Kleen while it was running then after a good 30 minutes , I'da driven it to fill the fuel tank with fresh Diesel Fuel .


-Nate


Mike Wrote :

At about 4 o'clock today when it was about 55 degrees in the garage it started up again and it has been running since. I didn't put the white bottle of diesel kleen last time and it was down below a quarter tank. When it stoped running it was about 20 degrees and had been sitting in 20 degree weather for about 6 hours. I don't know if this is another example of diesel fuel gelling or freezing or something but it is running now.

I had tried the red bottle diesel 911 but it didn't do any good. I also had put diesel heat in the tank before this happened. I hope I didn't cause any damage.

Thank you thank you for your help.

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1981 240D Running Problems

 

Nate (and others interested):

Sorry for the long post, but it has been a 3 year problem.

I have written about the goofy stalling problems I've had with my 1981
240D stick. Here's what I wrote on a mercedes forum 3 years ago:

Here we go again guys:

I hope I can do this without too lengthy an explanation because hunt and
peck is a terrible way to go.

My 1981 240D suddenly got squirrelly at idle a few days ago. It would
seemingly run fine at speed, but when slowing down to idle it seemed as
if it were running on 2 or 3 cylinders - really rough. Using the
throttle I could rev it a little and it would seemingly smooth out and
be OK - until last night. I think if I let it go long enough it would
have stalled. I looked at the engine and there was a lot of fuel all
over #1 injector. I tightened the nuts fastening the lines to the
injectors, hoping that loose fittings were leaking fuel. No change. I
suffered it for a few days until last night. It was pretty much running
the same way - badly at idle - until I drove into my brother's yard to
show him the situation. It was idling really badly. Finally it
stalled. I got it started and stumbled 700 feet to my place across the
road. It stalled as I slowed to pull into my driveway. I couldn't get
it started and keep it running to pull into the driveway, so I left it
at the end of the driveway for the night.

Do I have 2 problems? It seems as if the fuel return lines are wet and
maybe seeping. It appeared that the fuel on #1 injector was above the
terminal where the return line fit on and above the nut boss for
disassembling the injector, which is why I initially suspected a leaking
line nut. Can severely leaking return lines cause the problem I'm
having? I think not, but certainly don't know.

It seemed as if the problem got worse as the engine warmed up. It
pretty much started normally - it's moderately cold - and ran OK for a
little bit. 3 miles into town for the first stop at a light and the
idle was bad.

I'm somewhat baffled with no direct experience with this condition. Of
course I suspect fuel. But, because full power operation seems
somewhere near normal, I'm mentally eliminating the usual suspects like,
filters plugged. I just went out to try to start it and move it into
the driveway. It took a couple of trys after it having stalled last
night (fuel starvation?) and then it started and I drove it into the
driveway. It seemed normal. I had it on high idle with the manual cold
idle adjust. It's about 40 this morning. When I lowered the idle with
the manual adjust it was idling normally.

I inadvertently pulled the return line at the first injector, the one
that returns to the filter, because it came off so easily. Clearly,
that explains the leakage around that fitting. However, I expected fuel
to spurt out of the fitting on the injector. It did not. I'd say it
sputtered out. It was not anything like a stream.

Anyone have a clue about what might be going on here.

Roland Hyatt

Then I recently posted this:

3 years ago I posted the below missive - or should I say, "massive" -
about an intermittent stalling problem. Well, it's now been 2 weeks
since I think I found and fixed the problem, because there hasn't been a
recurrence since. It has plagued me off and on for 3 years. Even to
the point that I didn't use the car much - it was too unreliable. It
would always restart when it stalled, but what a hassle. I had a
thought, as always and as others had suggested along the way, that it
sure seemed like fuel starvation. Lately I have been chasing a vacuum
issue that I suspected may be activating the shutoff on the pump. Wrong!

One day, as it happens, I was daydreaming about the problem and
solutions. Eureka! The fuel primer pump. I had never looked at it
because it wasn't leaking. But frustration is the mother of invention.
I jumped over and worked it - it was the old style - thinking that I
might realign an O ring. As soon as I pumped, it leaked like a sieve.
I had one of the new style and 10 minutes later it was replaced. It
hasn't stalled since.

Here's the irony..... This morning I was looking in the archives to find
my original post. Along the way I found one in 2006 from Christopher in
reply to a question about stalling from Barry:
" Is there a fuel leak as well? I am wondering if the primer pump is
leaking air... " Duh!

So, another for the archives. While mine was not leaking fuel, it was
obviously sucking air from time to time.

Onward and upward - only 3 years to solve the problem.

Roland Hyatt

So, Nate, it appears the problem is solved as it has been over 2 weeks
of near daily, cold weather driving, without a stall. It was fuel all
right. My experience may help someone else.

Happy New Year!

Roland Hyatt
with a bunch of klatta klatta Mercedes in Fallon, Nevada

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: No Cold Start Again

 

Next time I am up visiting my kids in Tacoma, I'll come by and take a test drive.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Max temple <jasperezra@...> wrote:
>
> I started my #2-240 the other day, my automatic, which is my second in line
> 240. It had sat from last summer, never gets driven, sat tru zero degree
> temps, when it warmed up to 32 one day I started it and to my surprise it
> started on the first pop. Somebody could buy a excellent running car here.
> This one starts better than my #1 240 with the 4-spd. Max
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 1, 2014 at 7:52 AM, <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > O.K. ;
> >
> >
> > So , you cycle the glow plugs then hold the throttle to the floor and
> > operate the starter , it turns over O.K. , not sluggishly but never coughs
> > ? no black puffs from the exhaust ? .
> >
> >
> > Or , does it s l o w l y crank over like it's a 6 volt ? .
> >
> >
> > Or . do you only hold onto the starter for a few moments then stop because
> > you're worried about overheating the starter ? .
> >
> >
> > Is the clear plastic intake screen full of bluish fuel or black coffee
> > looking stuff or tiny chinks of miniature coal ? .
> >
> >
> > You _DO_ have a clear plastic intake screen , right ? _RIGHT_ ?! .
> >
> >
> > I know there's an answer in there somewhere , we just have to keep picking
> > away at the details until we find it .
> >
> >
> > If you have electricity anywhere near the car , put an old tech hair dryer
> > blowing warm/hot air into the air intake ducts .
> >
> >
> > Me , I'da dumped in the entire bottle of Diesel Kleen while it was running
> > then after a good 30 minutes , I'da driven it to fill the fuel tank with
> > fresh Diesel Fuel .
> >
> >
> > -Nate
> >
> > Mike Wrote :
> >
> > At about 4 o'clock today when it was about 55 degrees in the garage it
> > started up again and it has been running since. I didn't put the white
> > bottle of diesel kleen last time and it was down below a quarter tank. When
> > it stoped running it was about 20 degrees and had been sitting in 20 degree
> > weather for about 6 hours. I don't know if this is another example of
> > diesel fuel gelling or freezing or something but it is running now.
> >
> > I had tried the red bottle diesel 911 but it didn't do any good. I also
> > had put diesel heat in the tank before this happened. I hope I didn't cause
> > any damage.
> >
> > Thank you thank you for your help.
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

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