Caitlin
Dieselgiant also has a very good (with photos) write up on valve adjustment.
brian from la verne, ca
From: CaitlinDean <tinymachine@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 4:43 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Belated introduction and hello
Hi Tom,
Thanks for all the info :) We can't blame my "new mechanic" yet, he doesn't know of all my plans, but good to know you recommend the valve adjustment before the purge + filters. I did get the wrenches and it's on the list, but I could use some good instruction so I'll do my research on that.
Thanks for confirming my instinct on cutting the cooling hose, after I sent this intro I did find my way to the dieselgiant "citrus flush" tutorial and I found that really helpful and I understand it better now. My car runs a little hot, but isn't overheating, but she only made it to 10deg (instead of -20deg) in her test (as I understand it) and the temps are dropping, so that's why I priortized that.
The line that was shortened was fuel line, and I have some of that and some other parts arriving tomorrow, including the power steering filter, and I'm eager to get going....
BUT
The car wouldn't even start today. I haven't had any problems with that yet, so I was surprised (I guess I'll need to practice not being surprised). A friend gave me a jump and that didn't do it (lights, radio, etc are working). I jiggled the ignition a little, I tried starting in neutral, and now it just clicks rapidly when I turn the key ... though it didn't even do that before the jiggling.
So I guess I'll have to start with an un-planned repair.
I didn't think this would be cheap...I definitely went into it as a learning experience...but I also hope I don't go broke while learning ;)
Here we go.....!
Caitlin in Santa Fe
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> Caitlin,
>
> Time for a new "new mechanic". One who actually knew 300SDs of your
> vintage would have told you that the FIRST thing you do, before the diesel
> purge, is the valve adjustment.
>
> You can get the valve adjustment from the Haynes Book of Lies (HBOL)
> for the 123 cars (your 300SD is a 126 car - the 123s are the midsize for the
> same vintage). The 123 300D turbo has the same engine as your car (NOT
> the same as the 300D non-turbo or the 240D). So sections of the HBOL that
> deal with the engine are useful for you.
>
> These cars have overhead cam and valves, that can be adjusted in about
> 30 minutes by an amateur (like me) after spending much longer than that
> learning how to do it right. The process is made much easier by buying the
> right BENT wrenches from Performance Products, or other Mercedes speciality
> sources. The cost of the wrench set, which will last a lifetime, is about
> 1/4 or 1/3 of the cost of the entire job, done once, by an independent
> shop.
>
> DO NOT cut hoses and leave something inline, unless you know exactly
> what it's going to do. If someone has already shortened a hose, get the
> proper hose and put it back in. DO NOT use a "kit" to do a flush. Use a
> proper hose, for the first flush. Then distilled water and citric (not acetic)
> acid (from baker's supply shops) to really flush and clean the system.
> Then distilled water to flush out the last bits of citric acid. and ONLY
> THEN put in the anti-freeze mix.
>
> If the car isn't overheating, don't worry about the flush until you
> have done the valve adjust, the filters (air and BOTH fuel filters and the
> oil change WITH filter change). That gives you time for the replacement
> coolant hose to arrive.
>
> Then, once you are up and running, all nice and clean, you will want
> to change the filter in the bottom of the power steering pump. This is a
> lift out / drop in process, very easy. Order the filter when you order the
> valve adjust wrenches and the replacement coolant hose.
>
> There are a bundle of sites on the internet that have photo essays on
> how to fix that busted odometer. I think Mercedes Source and Diesel Giant
> both have such essays on their sites.
>
> Get to know your local junk (pick-a-part) yards. The most expensive
> car you will ever own is a cheap Mercedes. The people who find these cars
> to be economical are those who learn to do the work themselves and learn to
> find the parts in junk yards instead of at the dealier. Junk yard parts
> are also VERY useful for practicing on, as with the famous monovalve and that
> odometer problem, before you have to work on your own.
>
> Welcome to the group.
>
> Tom; 1981 300SD, 353+++ miles
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/30/2011 1:31:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> tinymachine@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> I joined a few weeks ago right after picking up my (first) mercedes. She's
> a 1983 300SD, white with dark brown interior (though the p.o. put in blue
> seats). She's got about 223k on her and a busted odometer. I've named her
> "Betty White"...seemed to fit somehow.
>
> She's fairly solid mechanically, but I have my work cut out for me as I'm
> eager and interested, but totally "new" to the world of repair and even
> maintenance. You all seem like a helpful and knowledgeable bunch, and I've
> enjoyed reading up while lurking :) I hope you won't mind sharing your
> collective wisdom with an enthusiastic beginner.
>
> I thought I'd start with some simple stuff, and I've already been
> thwarted. My plan for phase 1 was:
>
> 1) diesel purge
> 2) fuel filters
> 3) coolant flush n fill
> 4) oil change
>
> Went to do the diesel purge as per the instructions in the mercedessource
> kit, and the fuel line section that you re-route so as not to spill fuel
> all over god's country was "newer" and too short. So I've got some biofuel
> rated fuel line coming, just gonna start with replacing that section (my
> friend has a new biofuel company here, so I'd like to carefully experiment with
> B100 and blends)
>
> Thought I'd check the air filter while I had the hood up, and I couldn't
> get the dang top off...what am I missing? I removed the wingnut and bolt and
> 4 clips....and could not lift that lid.
>
> Coolant flush and fill (my new mechanic, also a 300SD owner, strongly
> recommended that asap) is getting more pressing as our temps are dropping. I've
> got Zerex ready to go, and I bought one of those $4 "kits" (mostly for the
> instructions on the back) but now I realize they want you to cut on of
> your lines and leave their plastic piece installed all the time. Doesn't that
> restrict the flow? Or would it be fine? How else would I do it? Any video
> or photo instructions?
>
> There's plenty of info on the internet, but I want to get my hands on at
> least one manual to start (actual book or DVD based, no matter)....what
> would you all recommend to start with?
>
> Thanks folks! Happy weekend!
> Caitlin (and Betty White)
>
Thanks for all the info :) We can't blame my "new mechanic" yet, he doesn't know of all my plans, but good to know you recommend the valve adjustment before the purge + filters. I did get the wrenches and it's on the list, but I could use some good instruction so I'll do my research on that.
Thanks for confirming my instinct on cutting the cooling hose, after I sent this intro I did find my way to the dieselgiant "citrus flush" tutorial and I found that really helpful and I understand it better now. My car runs a little hot, but isn't overheating, but she only made it to 10deg (instead of -20deg) in her test (as I understand it) and the temps are dropping, so that's why I priortized that.
The line that was shortened was fuel line, and I have some of that and some other parts arriving tomorrow, including the power steering filter, and I'm eager to get going....
BUT
The car wouldn't even start today. I haven't had any problems with that yet, so I was surprised (I guess I'll need to practice not being surprised). A friend gave me a jump and that didn't do it (lights, radio, etc are working). I jiggled the ignition a little, I tried starting in neutral, and now it just clicks rapidly when I turn the key ... though it didn't even do that before the jiggling.
So I guess I'll have to start with an un-planned repair.
I didn't think this would be cheap...I definitely went into it as a learning experience...but I also hope I don't go broke while learning ;)
Here we go.....!
Caitlin in Santa Fe
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> Caitlin,
>
> Time for a new "new mechanic". One who actually knew 300SDs of your
> vintage would have told you that the FIRST thing you do, before the diesel
> purge, is the valve adjustment.
>
> You can get the valve adjustment from the Haynes Book of Lies (HBOL)
> for the 123 cars (your 300SD is a 126 car - the 123s are the midsize for the
> same vintage). The 123 300D turbo has the same engine as your car (NOT
> the same as the 300D non-turbo or the 240D). So sections of the HBOL that
> deal with the engine are useful for you.
>
> These cars have overhead cam and valves, that can be adjusted in about
> 30 minutes by an amateur (like me) after spending much longer than that
> learning how to do it right. The process is made much easier by buying the
> right BENT wrenches from Performance Products, or other Mercedes speciality
> sources. The cost of the wrench set, which will last a lifetime, is about
> 1/4 or 1/3 of the cost of the entire job, done once, by an independent
> shop.
>
> DO NOT cut hoses and leave something inline, unless you know exactly
> what it's going to do. If someone has already shortened a hose, get the
> proper hose and put it back in. DO NOT use a "kit" to do a flush. Use a
> proper hose, for the first flush. Then distilled water and citric (not acetic)
> acid (from baker's supply shops) to really flush and clean the system.
> Then distilled water to flush out the last bits of citric acid. and ONLY
> THEN put in the anti-freeze mix.
>
> If the car isn't overheating, don't worry about the flush until you
> have done the valve adjust, the filters (air and BOTH fuel filters and the
> oil change WITH filter change). That gives you time for the replacement
> coolant hose to arrive.
>
> Then, once you are up and running, all nice and clean, you will want
> to change the filter in the bottom of the power steering pump. This is a
> lift out / drop in process, very easy. Order the filter when you order the
> valve adjust wrenches and the replacement coolant hose.
>
> There are a bundle of sites on the internet that have photo essays on
> how to fix that busted odometer. I think Mercedes Source and Diesel Giant
> both have such essays on their sites.
>
> Get to know your local junk (pick-a-part) yards. The most expensive
> car you will ever own is a cheap Mercedes. The people who find these cars
> to be economical are those who learn to do the work themselves and learn to
> find the parts in junk yards instead of at the dealier. Junk yard parts
> are also VERY useful for practicing on, as with the famous monovalve and that
> odometer problem, before you have to work on your own.
>
> Welcome to the group.
>
> Tom; 1981 300SD, 353+++ miles
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/30/2011 1:31:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> tinymachine@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> I joined a few weeks ago right after picking up my (first) mercedes. She's
> a 1983 300SD, white with dark brown interior (though the p.o. put in blue
> seats). She's got about 223k on her and a busted odometer. I've named her
> "Betty White"...seemed to fit somehow.
>
> She's fairly solid mechanically, but I have my work cut out for me as I'm
> eager and interested, but totally "new" to the world of repair and even
> maintenance. You all seem like a helpful and knowledgeable bunch, and I've
> enjoyed reading up while lurking :) I hope you won't mind sharing your
> collective wisdom with an enthusiastic beginner.
>
> I thought I'd start with some simple stuff, and I've already been
> thwarted. My plan for phase 1 was:
>
> 1) diesel purge
> 2) fuel filters
> 3) coolant flush n fill
> 4) oil change
>
> Went to do the diesel purge as per the instructions in the mercedessource
> kit, and the fuel line section that you re-route so as not to spill fuel
> all over god's country was "newer" and too short. So I've got some biofuel
> rated fuel line coming, just gonna start with replacing that section (my
> friend has a new biofuel company here, so I'd like to carefully experiment with
> B100 and blends)
>
> Thought I'd check the air filter while I had the hood up, and I couldn't
> get the dang top off...what am I missing? I removed the wingnut and bolt and
> 4 clips....and could not lift that lid.
>
> Coolant flush and fill (my new mechanic, also a 300SD owner, strongly
> recommended that asap) is getting more pressing as our temps are dropping. I've
> got Zerex ready to go, and I bought one of those $4 "kits" (mostly for the
> instructions on the back) but now I realize they want you to cut on of
> your lines and leave their plastic piece installed all the time. Doesn't that
> restrict the flow? Or would it be fine? How else would I do it? Any video
> or photo instructions?
>
> There's plenty of info on the internet, but I want to get my hands on at
> least one manual to start (actual book or DVD based, no matter)....what
> would you all recommend to start with?
>
> Thanks folks! Happy weekend!
> Caitlin (and Betty White)
>
> tinymachine@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> I joined a few weeks ago right after picking up my (first) mercedes. She's
> a 1983 300SD, white with dark brown interior (though the p.o. put in blue
> seats). She's got about 223k on her and a busted odometer. I've named her
> "Betty White"...seemed to fit somehow.
>
> She's fairly solid mechanically, but I have my work cut out for me as I'm
> eager and interested, but totally "new" to the world of repair and even
> maintenance. You all seem like a helpful and knowledgeable bunch, and I've
> enjoyed reading up while lurking :) I hope you won't mind sharing your
> collective wisdom with an enthusiastic beginner.
>
> I thought I'd start with some simple stuff, and I've already been
> thwarted. My plan for phase 1 was:
>
> 1) diesel purge
> 2) fuel filters
> 3) coolant flush n fill
> 4) oil change
>
> Went to do the diesel purge as per the instructions in the mercedessource
> kit, and the fuel line section that you re-route so as not to spill fuel
> all over god's country was "newer" and too short. So I've got some biofuel
> rated fuel line coming, just gonna start with replacing that section (my
> friend has a new biofuel company here, so I'd like to carefully experiment with
> B100 and blends)
>
> Thought I'd check the air filter while I had the hood up, and I couldn't
> get the dang top off...what am I missing? I removed the wingnut and bolt and
> 4 clips....and could not lift that lid.
>
> Coolant flush and fill (my new mechanic, also a 300SD owner, strongly
> recommended that asap) is getting more pressing as our temps are dropping. I've
> got Zerex ready to go, and I bought one of those $4 "kits" (mostly for the
> instructions on the back) but now I realize they want you to cut on of
> your lines and leave their plastic piece installed all the time. Doesn't that
> restrict the flow? Or would it be fine? How else would I do it? Any video
> or photo instructions?
>
> There's plenty of info on the internet, but I want to get my hands on at
> least one manual to start (actual book or DVD based, no matter)....what
> would you all recommend to start with?
>
> Thanks folks! Happy weekend!
> Caitlin (and Betty White)
>
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