Re: [diesel_mercedes] Multimeter a good investment.

 

Laurence,

Good points.

What I do for shady tree calibration is to first measure the voltage on my truck (it is usually about 12.6).  Then I know how to apply "windage" for the vehicle being tested.  (I too use the Harbor Freight meters most of the time.)

Bobby


On Wed, Dec 4, 2013 at 12:45 PM, Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


A quality multimeter is a good investment for your auto shop.  Knowing exactly what voltage is good.  A bad multimeter might say for instance 12.3v but it could be 13 or 11.  You can get a multimeter from Harbor Freight for 3 bucks.  They work but must be calibrated by a known source of voltage.  I use them to keep time off my Mastech(Fluke) clone I got from Jameco which is a place for higher quality multimeters.  Also find a multimeter that uses 9v battery or double or triple a batteries.  Nothing worse than a multimeter that eats expensive small cell batteries like a hearing aid batteries.  Lawrence Rhodes





--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] RE: 1979 300SD W116

 

Bud,

A viscous fan clutch should be easy to spin when the engine is cold and stiff when the engine is hot.

So you are good to go.

(I didn't remember for sure if my MB has one or not - so I looked on Rockauto - they list it.)


Bobby


On Wed, Dec 4, 2013 at 3:09 PM, Bud S <budski252@yahoo.com> wrote:


How could you read my mind?  What and where is that electro-mechanical thingy? 

On flat and normal conditions my temps have hovered between 80-90C.  Going up hills it's been rising, last week on my way home it got close to the upper white mark and after I crested the hill it dropped to normal temp.

I checked the expansion tank and the coolant was low.  The cap rubber seal had seen better days so I replaced that.

Is the fan clutch supposed to be real loose so you can just spin the fan easily?  Right now after driving it, it's sort of stiff.

Thanks,
Bud




On Tuesday, December 3, 2013 6:17 PM, "vwnate1@yahoo.com" <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

WELCOME Bud ! .

Your S Klasse has a tricky electro-mechanical HVAC thing that craps out without warning if you fail to keep the coolant *perfectly* clean and changed & flushed every 12 months .

We have severl W116 lover here , Ben are you there ? .

-Nate
       Bod Wrote :



 

Just wanted to introduce myself to the group.  I picked up a 1979 300SD during the summer and have been doing minor repairs to get her on the road.

It's been a week since I've been driving it and have been adjusting to driving a land yacht again.  I haven't driven an automatic in over 20 years and from what I can remember this is the smoothest shifting car I've driven.

Have gone through about a half tank of diesel, so not sure of what mpg yet.

Trying to read through a lot of topics on this car just to figure out how everything works.

Bud







--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] RE: 1979 300SD W116

 

How could you read my mind?  What and where is that electro-mechanical thingy? 

On flat and normal conditions my temps have hovered between 80-90C.  Going up hills it's been rising, last week on my way home it got close to the upper white mark and after I crested the hill it dropped to normal temp.

I checked the expansion tank and the coolant was low.  The cap rubber seal had seen better days so I replaced that.

Is the fan clutch supposed to be real loose so you can just spin the fan easily?  Right now after driving it, it's sort of stiff.

Thanks,
Bud



On Tuesday, December 3, 2013 6:17 PM, "vwnate1@yahoo.com" <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

WELCOME Bud ! .

Your S Klasse has a tricky electro-mechanical HVAC thing that craps out without warning if you fail to keep the coolant *perfectly* clean and changed & flushed every 12 months .

We have severl W116 lover here , Ben are you there ? .

-Nate
       Bod Wrote :



 

Just wanted to introduce myself to the group.  I picked up a 1979 300SD during the summer and have been doing minor repairs to get her on the road.

It's been a week since I've been driving it and have been adjusting to driving a land yacht again.  I haven't driven an automatic in over 20 years and from what I can remember this is the smoothest shifting car I've driven.

Have gone through about a half tank of diesel, so not sure of what mpg yet.

Trying to read through a lot of topics on this car just to figure out how everything works.

Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/


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[diesel_mercedes] Multimeter a good investment.

 

A quality multimeter is a good investment for your auto shop.  Knowing exactly what voltage is good.  A bad multimeter might say for instance 12.3v but it could be 13 or 11.  You can get a multimeter from Harbor Freight for 3 bucks.  They work but must be calibrated by a known source of voltage.  I use them to keep time off my Mastech(Fluke) clone I got from Jameco which is a place for higher quality multimeters.  Also find a multimeter that uses 9v battery or double or triple a batteries.  Nothing worse than a multimeter that eats expensive small cell batteries like a hearing aid batteries.  Lawrence Rhodes

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1981 240D stick vacuum problems

 

Don't think it is a vacuum issue, but don't know for sure. My vacuum issues slow the shut off process, but don't impact my starting or driving (no stumbling or stalling) - these sound more like fuel delivery issues.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Roland Hyatt <wrolandhyattjr@...> wrote:
>
> My 1981 240D standard has been giving ne fits with a stumbling and
> stalling problem - as well as what I thought was a brake booster gone
> bad. WRONG! At least I now think the problem is a vacuum leak. My
> pump puts out about 18 inches of vacuum, which is about right at 4000
> feet elevation. I have looked for a couple of years for a vacuum
> diagram for my specific car. No luck anywhere. Anyone out there with
> help??
>
> I think that I have about 10 inches with everything hooked up. I think
> the vacuum goes so low that the fuel shutoff starts to shut down the
> engine and it starts to stumble. I have a Mityvac and so can test
> stuff. The problem is not knowing where anything goes. There is a
> green/yellow (I think) line into the "Tee" off the main line from pump
> to the brake booster. I has been broken off and the "Tee plugged. I
> really need a vacuum diagram in order to track the leak. Somebody help?
>
> Roland Hyatt
> 1981 240D stick 210K+
> 1984 300SD 190K
> 1980 240D auto 250K)
> 1983 240D auto inop
> 1983 300SD inop
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1981 240D stick vacuum problems

I believe it takes vacuum to operate the shut off. Loss of vacuum would
not shut it, if I'm correct.

Henry



On 12/4/2013 8:51 AM, Roland Hyatt wrote:
> My 1981 240D standard has been giving ne fits with a stumbling and
> stalling problem - as well as what I thought was a brake booster gone
> bad. WRONG! At least I now think the problem is a vacuum leak. My
> pump puts out about 18 inches of vacuum, which is about right at 4000
> feet elevation. I have looked for a couple of years for a vacuum
> diagram for my specific car. No luck anywhere. Anyone out there with
> help??
>
> I think that I have about 10 inches with everything hooked up. I think
> the vacuum goes so low that the fuel shutoff starts to shut down the
> engine and it starts to stumble. I have a Mityvac and so can test
> stuff. The problem is not knowing where anything goes. There is a
> green/yellow (I think) line into the "Tee" off the main line from pump
> to the brake booster. I has been broken off and the "Tee plugged. I
> really need a vacuum diagram in order to track the leak. Somebody help?
>
> Roland Hyatt
> 1981 240D stick 210K+
> 1984 300SD 190K
> 1980 240D auto 250K)
> 1983 240D auto inop
> 1983 300SD inop
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1981 240D stick vacuum problems

 

On 12/4/2013 8:51 AM, Roland Hyatt wrote:
> I think
> the vacuum goes so low that the fuel shutoff starts to shut down the
> engine and it starts to stumb

Hi Roland. I could be wrong, but if you have a lack of vacuum, you
can't shut the engine off but have to do it manually. So if you have
low vacuum it would not be shutting your engine down.

--
Stan George Portland <<

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1981 240D stick vacuum problems

 

My 1981 240D standard has been giving ne fits with a stumbling and
stalling problem - as well as what I thought was a brake booster gone
bad. WRONG! At least I now think the problem is a vacuum leak. My
pump puts out about 18 inches of vacuum, which is about right at 4000
feet elevation. I have looked for a couple of years for a vacuum
diagram for my specific car. No luck anywhere. Anyone out there with
help??

I think that I have about 10 inches with everything hooked up. I think
the vacuum goes so low that the fuel shutoff starts to shut down the
engine and it starts to stumble. I have a Mityvac and so can test
stuff. The problem is not knowing where anything goes. There is a
green/yellow (I think) line into the "Tee" off the main line from pump
to the brake booster. I has been broken off and the "Tee plugged. I
really need a vacuum diagram in order to track the leak. Somebody help?

Roland Hyatt
1981 240D stick 210K+
1984 300SD 190K
1980 240D auto 250K)
1983 240D auto inop
1983 300SD inop

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 'Lecktrickery

 

Nate,

I forget where I bought it, either eBay or Craig's List.
The intent was to scan it, to make it available
Currently, I have no scanner ready to go.

Rob
Garden Grove, CA
==
On 12/4/13, 3:39 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> 7a. 'Lecktrickery
> Posted by:vwnate1@yahoo.com vwnate1
> Date: Tue Dec 3, 2013 6:24 pm ((PST))
>
>
>
> Rob ;
>
>
> Where didja get that manual ? .
>
>
> I need one , grubby & dog eared is fine .
>
>
> -Nate
> Rob Said :
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> There's a window relay behind the instrument cluster, according to MB electrical trouble shooting manual, as well as 2 fuses: 1 hot all the time, other hot on start/run.
>
> Rob
> Garden Grove, CA

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