RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re : (more) Withdrawal....

 

If you over-tighten it, the car won’t tend to come back to center after you turn a corner. Really a weird feeling.  Bill in Corvallis

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Stan George
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 10:33 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re : (more) Withdrawal....

 

On 1/23/2013 10:21 AM, Nate wrote:
> If you're not careful , the adjuster screw will turn back in as you
> snug up the lock nut and the play will get worse again .

I read one tutorial that advised to leave about 1 inch of play at the
steering wheel rim to be sure you didn't get it too tight.

--
Stan George Portland <<

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Steering Play

 


The thing is, too little play is a very bad thing , I like maybe 1/4" .

-Nate
Stan wrote :
>
>
>
>
> I read one tutorial that advised to leave about 1 inch of play at the
> steering wheel rim to be sure you didn't get it too tight.
>
> --
> Stan George Portland <<
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : front wheel bearing replacement

 


This is a simple if filthy job ;

You'll need to jack up and safely block the car ,get a long drift and a cheap metal not plastic bearing & seal installer , use only black molybiumdisulfide bearing grease .

Minimum 32 Oz. ballpien hammer , I use a 7 # one .

First thing , find a quiet place & jack up each front wheel and spin it by hand ~ the bad one will make a deep rumbling noise , maybe faint .

-Nate
AJ wrote :
>
> So.. Agnes is wanting more love.
>
> The last week, I've noticed a high pitched whine above 75mph..
>
> Yeah, I said 75.. Ohio Turnpike is 70.. Travel under that at your own risk..
>
> Having just had the entire rear end essentially rebuilt, I'm almost sure it's a passenger front wheel bearing. It would explain what I thought was a "warped rotor" thumping, when I stop, as well. ;)
>
> That said-- any good tutorials on this?? Mine's an 84 without ABS.. It's cold as crap out right now, and I'll want to make this as quick as possible.. And probably buy, but not DO the driver's side until Spring.. Or at least a warmer part of winter..
>
> It'll be Zero F'n degrees in the morning (-18 celcius ;) ). The glow's all checked out, and I brought a "second" battery, for a little extra "humph..." The place I thought I could plug in my block heater isn't a working outlet.. (Must call hospital maintence about this!)
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: nice surprise

 


Welcome Home Henry ;

Are you now done with old M-B's ? .

Too bad of so .

-Nate
Henry wrote :
>
> Hi all!!
> I've been out of the loop, mourning the sale of my SDL, sorry.
> But, today, as I'm getting ready to take the parts one, to the new owner, I
> decided to take a battery over to my 85 (or is it 83?) 300D (the beauty I
> got, that got smashed in the rear quarter and totaled).
> It's been sitting for 3 years, up on blocks.
> I put the battery in, and thought first I better crank a little, to get fuel
> to the injectors, before going through the glow plug/start procedure.
> it's been in the high 20's here at night, but was about 55 deg. at the time.
>
> I turned the key, to crank to get fuel........and the dang this started!!
> That quick!! no glow plug time or anything.
> I was so shocked, I shut it off!! haha
>
> then, turned the key and it fired perfectly, like I drive it every day.
> I ran and got a couple gallons of fresh diesel, put about 5 times
> concentration of "PRI-D" diesel treatment, along with the same concentration
> of algae killer/preventative (I forget the name, but it's yellow). and
> poured them in the tank. It sat there idling like a sewing machine for about
> 1.5 hours!
> no smoking, nothing. I revved it a few times, turned the heater on high, and
> even put it in all gears, forward and reverse, just to "lube it all up".
>
> well anyway, just a happy surprise, it worked so nicely. The engine has 220K
> on it.
>
> If anyone wants to clean me out, I've still got a 220D manual trans with
> cracker head, the above car, and another half stripped parts 123.
> I'd let 'em all go cheap, if you took it all.
>
> Henry
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re : (more) Withdrawal....

 

On 1/23/2013 10:21 AM, Nate wrote:
> If you're not careful , the adjuster screw will turn back in as you
> snug up the lock nut and the play will get worse again .

I read one tutorial that advised to leave about 1 inch of play at the
steering wheel rim to be sure you didn't get it too tight.

--
Stan George Portland <<

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 79 300D vacuum hoses

 


David ;

A 1979 Model has no EGR valve .

The firewall has yellow tubes for the central locking , green tube for the HVAC and brown for the keyswitch , this shuts the engine off .

As your engine halts rapidly , I'm betting you have minimal vauum leaks .

The black tubes are for venting , they go through the firewall and end under the dashboard , open to suck air .

there _may_ be a plastic vacuum resivoir behind the left front fender , aft of the wheel where you can't see it ~ mine both had a black tube and didn't hold vacuum so I capped them off and only used the trunk vacuum resivoir for the central locking .

I went through this same thing with both my old '78 & '80 Diesel Coupes , there might be some vacuum diagram pictures in the files section of the home page .

You should get about 20" vacuum +/- @ idle .

-Nate
David wrote :
>
> Hi Chuck,
>
> Thanks for asking for more info. Under glowplugs 2-3 I found:
> Mercedes Benz
> 617 011 03 01
> 11D-79
>
> Under the coolant hose coming out at cyl 5 there are the letters AB
>
> Not sure if that is what you were looking for, if not, steer me in the right direction.
>
> It's a US model and no EGR to be found anywhere. Could have been removed. This one has no vacuum lines going to the transmission. Has linkage from the throttle going over the valve cover to the right side under the manifolds back to the trans on the right side. It shifts fine through the gears. The vacuum pump is sucking but it doesn't feel very strong. I'll get a reading on it tomorrow to see what it's pulling. The engine also shuts off right away so that part seems to be working fine.
>
> Coming off the main vacuum line from the pump to brake booster I found the following:
> First line splits. one line to a three way connector and the other a red line that is plugged.
>
> The three way splits off to a line going into the firewall on the center, the left has a one to a two hose valve with black line and the other plugged off. The other side has another 1 to two hose valve with a green line and a red/white line. There are two yellow lines coming out of the firewall into a three way fitting that has the third part plugged.
>
> Hope this helps id some of this. Door locks and ACC non functional so I'm guessing that some of the ones plugged off go to those? The car runs pretty well but the brake boost feels a bit weak. It does have a new booster and seal ring at the master cyl.
>
> thanks,
> David
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : (more) Withdrawal....

 


It says ' more ' ~ did I miss anything ? .

The steering gearbox can be adjusted , you'll need a short 17MM box end or crow foot wrench to loosen the locknut then a _Metric_ allen wrench (I get 'em @ The .99 Cents Store) to turn the adjusting screw
_OUT_ (counter clockwise) a tiny bit at a time , with the wheels pointing straight ahead , as you reach through the open driver's side window and gently rock the steering wheel , back and forth , as the adjusting screw backs out , you should feel the play reduce bit by bit , STOP as soon as either the adjuster screw binds or the play stops reducing then _hold_ the screw from turning back in as you use the box wrench or crow foot (think cheap partshause for this) to snug up the lock nut .

If you're not careful , the adjuster screw will turn back in as you snug up the lock nut and the play will get worse again .

It's IMPORTANT to remember that the mercedes box is _reverse_ from most others boxes in that to reduce steering play , you _BACK_OUT_ the adjuster screw .

Do this first @ home then have your local indie M-B shop replace the loose idler .

I'm in Sunny So. Cal. where it's been too cold and or wet (rain) to do much works , I too work outside under only a tarp to block the sun .
'
-Nate
Caitlin wrote :
>
> It's been brutally cold for these parts (about 1F today, with wind) and
> with no garage I've been feeling itchy about some much needed repairs. I
> didn't do much all through the warm season as a frozen shoulder and some
> life changes (an in-town move, followed by an amicable break-up) gave me
> silly excuses when what I really needed was confidence.
>
> I *finally* replaced my rear brake pads right before thanksgiving...it was
> delicious autumn but sunny warm weather...and I was geared up to dive in
> after holiday travel...only to return a week later to frigid temps and snow.
>
> Betty needs an alignment BADLY and the shop that checked her out for that
> said "idler bushing and gear box" have too much play. So my next step is
> hire to handle that (and praying all she needs is a good teutonic
> adjustment) so I can get the alignment and replace my truly bald tires.
>
> All while waiting on a warmish day to replace the rear brake lines and
> flush the brake fluid (we could see the 40's in February...right?
> right?!?!?)
>
> I suppose I could refurb my instrument cluster and tinker on small things
> inside... (lordy knows there's plenty to DO)
>
> What projects do you all do in the coldy cold months? Like at a dining room
> table? ;)
>
> Brrrrrrr,
> Caitlin in Santa Fe
> 1983 300SD
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Rust Repair

 


There's always a market for a $1,000 TD , they're usually pretty bad at that price thopugh .

Using the resale value isn't wise as it's always a loosing proposition .

If you like it , $pend the Lolly and fix it the best you can .

Otherwise , either buy a rust free dead one or walk away .

Don't give up on The Classic Center until Tom says so .

-Nate
Boyd wrote :
>
>
>
> Classic Center did not show the rear quarter panel that I need.  Went to dealer and the part will cost $1,100.  Not sure I can get $1,000 for the car even with the rust fixed. 
> Boyd
>
>
> ________________________________
>

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