[diesel_mercedes] Fuel Mileage Check 1984 300CD Slushbox

 


392 miles , 25.2 MPG .

I found Diesel for $4.03 @ Chevron , that's pretty good for Los Angeles .

I'm not happy with this rebuilt engine ~ it has way too much blowby and did from the day they rebuilt it ~ I asked for a dry upper cylinder assembly and breakin , they refused .

it's so bad , the vent hose on the rocker box keep popping off and I've replaced the rubber elbow and spring clamp .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Windshield & Backlight Grommet

 


The proper way to do this is :

# 1 first & foremost , BUY AN OEM Mercedes grommet ! .

Get a carpet knife with several extra new blades and slowly and carefully cut the rubber away from the glass by inserting it 90° to the glass where the glass meets the edge of the rubber grommet and draw it along , the knife won't want to travel in a straight line , that's fine , let it pop out and begin again , in time you'll have strips of rubber peeling off , keep doing this without pressing on the inside of the glass nor the delicate trim ~

After a while most of the exterior rubber will be gone , tip the knife in at an angle and keep cutting the rubber away until the glass is loose in the body ~ it takes time but your time is *much* cheaper than the glass , even a used one .

Once the glass is loose from the rubber , lift it out and cut away the rubber between the trim and the glass ~ NEVER pull on the trim , it'll *instantly* bend .

Once the glass and rubber are apart , gently use a *new* (! only !) single edge razor blade to scrape the last bits of rubber away but DO NOT clean the edges of the windshield .

Get a work bench , I use an inverted trash can with old carpet on it , flip the windshield upside down and look at the rubber until you find the seal where the ends are joined ~ this goes in the dead center of the top of the glass , you have to work it over the edge of the glass bit by bit and it'll slip off occasionally , just keep at it ~ once the rubber is on the glass , flip it over and gently work the trims in .

Invert it once more and get some 1/8" nylon rope or better , flexible plastic covered wire and tuck it into the groove in the rubber where the body lip will go , begin at the bottom and finish wit the rope / wire overlapping a goodly bit at the top .

Lay the entire glass , rubber m trim and rope in the body with the bottom edge lined up , flip the rope / wire in at the top and have your helper *lightly* hold the glass in place with hands splayed as wide as possible ~ begin pulling in the rope / wire , as it flips over the lip of the rubber , it will pull the rubber over the body lip .

If the rope slips out , no worries , just try pulling the other end .

I hope this helps , it's tricky but not terribly difficult .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Windshield & Backlight Grommet

 


The proper way to do this is :

# 1 first & foremost , BUY AN OEM Mercedes grommet ! .

Get a carpet knife with several extra new blades and slowly and carefully cut the rubber away from the glass by inserting it 90° to the glass where the glass meets the edge of the rubber grommet and draw it along , the knife won't want to travel in a straight line , that's fine , let it pop out and begin again , in time you'll have strips of rubber peeling off , keep doing this without pressing on the inside of the glass nor the delicate trim ~

After a while most of the exterior rubber will be gone , tip the knife in at an angle and keep cutting the rubber away until the glass is loose in the body ~ it takes time but your time is *much* cheaper than the glass , even a used one .

Once the glass is loose from the rubber , lift it out and cut away the rubber between the trim and the glass ~ NEVER pull on the trim , it'll *instantly* bend .

Once the glass and rubber are apart , gently use a *new* (! only !) single edge razor blade to scrape the last bits of rubber away but DO NOT clean the edges of the windshield .

Get a work bench , I use an inverted trash can with old carpet on it , flip the windshield upside down and look at the rubber until you find the seal where the ends are joined ~ this goes in the dead center of the top of the glass , you have to work it over the edge

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Just replaced the windshield seal.

 

Tom,

I never received any instructions besides, "don't do it, pay someone else". 

I spent some time looking around before I tried it.  One of the Mercedes sites showed the VW bug factory video.  They installed the trims after the windows were in.  They used a large rubber mallet to install.  I used the 1 1/2" side of the 12" long board, hitting the other side with the mallet.  I wasn't worried about putting small kinks in it that way.

It worked without the trim.  Maybe the trim would hold the seal better instead of duct taping the seal to the window.  The trim was bent more from taking it off than putting it on.  It's a dead soft aluminum that flattened well when it hit the rubber.

If this seal lasts another 30 years, I'll try the next one with the trim first.  The problem will be that I'll be old and senile and won't remember!

Thanks,

Carl


On 4/1/2013 10:54 AM, audiolaw@aol.com wrote:

 

    I've always heard that the proper method was to install the aluminum trim in the window surround BEFORE pulling the window into the metal frame.  This is supposed to avoid the dents that inevitably occur when hammering in with a 2x4 and mallet. 
 
Tom 
 
 
In a message dated 4/1/2013 6:06:29 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, diyernh@comcast.net writes:
The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large blade or screwdriver.  Lubricate it before reinstalling.  It can be tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.


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[diesel_mercedes] 1984 300SD Sylvia - Odo broken, still need lock cylinders and key (pax only)

 

The title essentially sums it up...will (still) pay for someone to go to a junk yard and find the parts.

Many thanks in advance, all else is fine.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Just replaced the windshield seal.

 

    I've always heard that the proper method was to install the aluminum trim in the window surround BEFORE pulling the window into the metal frame.  This is supposed to avoid the dents that inevitably occur when hammering in with a 2x4 and mallet. 
 
Tom 
 
 
In a message dated 4/1/2013 6:06:29 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, diyernh@comcast.net writes:
The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large blade or screwdriver.  Lubricate it before reinstalling.  It can be tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Just replaced the windshield seal.

 

let us know if it leaks.I've heard they are never the same as factory.I want to replace mine in my w140
 
 
Tennessee Nate
From: diyernh <diyernh@comcast.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2013 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Just replaced the windshield seal.
 
You need to remove the windshield, then clean off any sealant left on the frame.  Add a 3/8" window rope seal into the corner of the frame, mash it down to fillet in the corner.  Put the new seal on the windshield while it's out of the car.  I used duct tape to hold the seal to the window.  On the outside of the seal, there is a lip that will be stretched over the inside metal window frame.  I put a lubricated 1/4" cotton rope in there, two times around.  Lift the window/seal into place.  Inside the car, you pull the rope in, which lifts the seal over the frame.  Gently push on the seal/window from the outside.  No extra hard force!  If anything, you are just pushing the windshield down to avoid the rope/seal from moving the window away from where it is pulling.

Trim work:  3 small phillips hold the front of the drip rail.  Put duct tape in the hole in the fender if you drop a screw.  A piece of wood and mallet will tap the trim upwards along the roof.  You don't need to remove the entire trim, just push up about a foot or so until the front end can be pulled out of the fender.  Pad the loose end and tape it down.  You will probably bump it while working on the window.  It will scratch your paint.

The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large blade or screwdriver.  Lubricate it before reinstalling.  It can be tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.

On 4/1/2013 7:23 AM, n61cm wrote:
 
Do you have to take the window out to do this job? Or do you just cut out the seal and put in a new one without removing the window?

Jim

--- In mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com, diyernh mailto:diyernh@... wrote:
>
>
> '84 300d. Just finished installing the windshield seal. Wasn't that
> bad of a job. The old seal cut out nicely. The new one went in easily.
>
> The worst thing is the mental scars that my daughter has. Everyone
> recommended KY personal lubricant for the cotton cord. It's water based
> and doesn't get sticky. She was a little grossed out.
>
> The 3/8" sealant caulking definitely needed to be pushed flat into the
> corner. If you don't push it in far enough, the windshield won't fit nicely.
>
> I had tried sealing the old seal with flowable silicone. That was a
> waste of time, the seal was brittle and cracked. It still leaked.
>
> I hope this eliminates the swimming pool in the back floorboard. I have
> the back window seal ready for the next project.
>
>
> Carl
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Just replaced the windshield seal.

 

You need to remove the windshield, then clean off any sealant left on the frame.  Add a 3/8" window rope seal into the corner of the frame, mash it down to fillet in the corner.  Put the new seal on the windshield while it's out of the car.  I used duct tape to hold the seal to the window.  On the outside of the seal, there is a lip that will be stretched over the inside metal window frame.  I put a lubricated 1/4" cotton rope in there, two times around.  Lift the window/seal into place.  Inside the car, you pull the rope in, which lifts the seal over the frame.  Gently push on the seal/window from the outside.  No extra hard force!  If anything, you are just pushing the windshield down to avoid the rope/seal from moving the window away from where it is pulling.

Trim work:  3 small phillips hold the front of the drip rail.  Put duct tape in the hole in the fender if you drop a screw.  A piece of wood and mallet will tap the trim upwards along the roof.  You don't need to remove the entire trim, just push up about a foot or so until the front end can be pulled out of the fender.  Pad the loose end and tape it down.  You will probably bump it while working on the window.  It will scratch your paint.

The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large blade or screwdriver.  Lubricate it before reinstalling.  It can be tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.

On 4/1/2013 7:23 AM, n61cm wrote:

 

Do you have to take the window out to do this job? Or do you just cut out the seal and put in a new one without removing the window?

Jim

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, diyernh <diyernh@...> wrote:
>
>
> '84 300d. Just finished installing the windshield seal. Wasn't that
> bad of a job. The old seal cut out nicely. The new one went in easily.
>
> The worst thing is the mental scars that my daughter has. Everyone
> recommended KY personal lubricant for the cotton cord. It's water based
> and doesn't get sticky. She was a little grossed out.
>
> The 3/8" sealant caulking definitely needed to be pushed flat into the
> corner. If you don't push it in far enough, the windshield won't fit nicely.
>
> I had tried sealing the old seal with flowable silicone. That was a
> waste of time, the seal was brittle and cracked. It still leaked.
>
> I hope this eliminates the swimming pool in the back floorboard. I have
> the back window seal ready for the next project.
>
>
> Carl
>


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Just replace the windshield seal.

 

Do you have to take the window out to do this job? Or do you just cut out the seal and put in a new one without removing the window?

Jim

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, diyernh <diyernh@...> wrote:
>
>
> '84 300d. Just finished installing the windshield seal. Wasn't that
> bad of a job. The old seal cut out nicely. The new one went in easily.
>
> The worst thing is the mental scars that my daughter has. Everyone
> recommended KY personal lubricant for the cotton cord. It's water based
> and doesn't get sticky. She was a little grossed out.
>
> The 3/8" sealant caulking definitely needed to be pushed flat into the
> corner. If you don't push it in far enough, the windshield won't fit nicely.
>
> I had tried sealing the old seal with flowable silicone. That was a
> waste of time, the seal was brittle and cracked. It still leaked.
>
> I hope this eliminates the swimming pool in the back floorboard. I have
> the back window seal ready for the next project.
>
>
> Carl
>

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