Thanks, Tom. But I don't have any junkyards near where I live. So both you and Mark in Lakewood, CO think these steering wheels pop off without puller, that's good news if I do need to take it off... I'll let you know how this part looks when I receive it. I think when it comes to Chinese stuff, some is good some is bad and the branding that gets put on it (eg Uro Parts, etc) is just marketing, just a brand name and a conduit for sales. So it's a grab-bag I guess. I don't want to dick around with old parts more than I have to, and hell, if I get five more years out of this old car I should be happy. My car only has 125k miles on it. Most of the junkyard stuff will be rode harder and put up wetter than what I'm taking out. If the URO stuff is junk, I'll send it back and rebuild the old stuff, or go the junkyard route. Later this summer, turbo rebuild. That's going to be a hoot.
Jim
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> I have a steering wheel puller, that cost less that $20 NEW. Probably
> find them anywhere at yard sales for a dollar or two.
>
> BUT, the wheel puller is necessary for my 1980 Caddy (hearse) and 1979
> Dodge CrewCab. But NOT for the 300SD. The steering wheel is held on
> tightly by the nut, but came off easily once the nut was removed.
>
> AGAIN, this is the kind of thing one learns by spending time in P-a-P
> yards. You end up making your mistakes on junkers, instead of on your own
> car.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> In a message dated 4/12/2013 3:25:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> jim@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Thanks, Tom. Do I have to have a fancy steering wheel puller? Our can I use
> a generic gear puller or a universal steering wheel puller? I have a gear
> puller, hopefully I can use that.
>
> Jim
>
> --- In _diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com_
> (mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com) , audiolaw@ wrote:
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > I don't know anything about the quality of Uro Parts.
> >
> > BUT, Nate and I swapped out the turnsignal/wiper switch in my 300SD
> > (126). It was dead simple, once we understood it.
> >
> > Pull the steering wheel (one nut);
> >
> > Pull the switch out (2 screws and two plugs at the end of wires that
> > go through the column jacket and under the kick panel above the pedals);
> > The wires run through the top jacket of the column, which only extends
> down
> > to the dash, and then ends;
> >
> > Put the new switch in, connect the plugs, put in the two screws;
> >
> > Reinstall the steering wheel;
> >
> > Take the wheel off again, adjust it so that it is lined up properly,
> > then reinstall it.
> >
> > We find PLENTY of 126s in P-a-P yards, with NEVER any missing turn
> > signal switch. So get one there, instead of paying $50. The time spent
> in
> > the yard will also give you a good lesson in how the switch comes out
> without
> > causing damage.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 4/11/2013 4:57:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > jim@ writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone tried the Uro Parts Blower Motor for the W123? Remember for a
> while
> > those motors became impossible to get and suddenly went over $500 new?
> Now
> > I see they are back as Uro Parts new around $90 at the usual places,
> > autohausaz.com, rmeuropean.com, ebay.com, etc. I just ordered one for my
> 84
> > 300D...hope they draw less amperage than the original. Will let you know
> how it
> > works out if anyone is interested. Also ordered a new combo switch (turn
> > signal/wiper/etc) same brand Uro Parts $50. My original switch is worn
> out. I
> > hope that is not a hard job to swap out. Anyone done this job? Advice
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Jim
> >
>
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (13) |
No comments:
Post a Comment