Your diesel will run on a mix of propane and diesel fuel, Caterpillar tractor built/builds a series of diesels that used a 10% diesel/90% propane mix. Propane will not self ignite so you must have some diesel present. There are aftermarket kits out there that add small amounts of propane to the air intake, the engines power can be increased by perhaps 30%.
A little water (dampness) will add power because the water turns to steam in the combustion chamber, steam has a higher expansion rate than the air/diesel mix so ups the power a bit. Used to be used on some WW2 fighter aircraft and some older racing cars.
Tony
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, john public <brad_macaboy1234@...> wrote:
>
> FWIW, I've noticed that on heavy fog nights, my 300D has significantly more power. I believe there may be thread in this forum about introducing fine water mist, somewhere in the past.
>
> (In addition, I distinctly remember a thread about introducing propane.) I wonder if the diesels would operate on natural gas...it would be significantly less expensive and cleaner burning.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Nate <vwnate1@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2012 3:57 PM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re : Low Compression De-Coking Engines
>
>
> Sorry ;
>
> No one replied so I thought it wasn't important .
>
> Be aware that this isn't what I'd do to a Mercedes 20:1 Compression Ratio engine .
>
> Anyways : operate engine until it's fully warmed up to operating temperature , remove the air cleaner and take a spray bottle full of water , set it to the 'fine mist ' spray , rev. the engine to 3,000 RPM and , whilst holding the throttle , begin gently spraying in a fine mist of the clean water ~ you'll hear the engine miss and see large clouds of black or grey smoke emit from the exhaust , DO NOT release the throttle but *do* stop spraying if the engine drops a lot of RPM , it'll clear out and climb back to to 3 K RPM in a moment .
>
> What happens is : the fine mist of water hits the red hot carbon and *instantly* flashes into steam , blowing the accumulated carbon off the piston crown and combustion chamber (spark plugs too) so it can go whistling out the exhaust , you'll see red hot glowing sparks sometimes .
>
> This is why , when you take apart an engine that blew a head gasket or cracked a cylinder head , one or more cylinders will be suspiciously clean ~ the leaked in coolant blew out the normal carbon as the engine died .
>
> Water , even in fine mist , isn't compressible so inducing it into a high compression engine , can crack the pistons or bend the connecting rods .
>
> The older Garage mechanics who weren't well trained , would simply up end a 6 oz. Coke bottle of water down the open intake whist Granny's Oldslowmobile was wailing along in protest with the throttle pinned ~ folks over 50 may remember the clouds of smoke belching from the back end of a '55 Caddy in the Service Bay of the local Sinclair Station , if the Mechanic was lucky , the car suffered no damage and ran *MUCH* better for another year or two .
>
> If too much water went in and the engine hydro - locked , he simply told them it was time for a rebuilt engine....
>
> I prefer the " Italian Tune Up " on my old Mercedes because it works the same and I like to think I keep my cars in sufficiently good repair that a 100 + MPH run @ 0-Dark:30 is safer .
>
> If you're the gambling typ , a -tiny- mist in your Mercedes might work the same way .
>
> YMMV , AFAIK , other excuses go here .
>
> -Nate
> Alan wrote:
> >
> > On Jan 16, 2012, at 6:29 AM, Nate wrote:
> > > I recently de coked an incredibly oil fouled engine using an old method learned from a Journeyman Mechanic working on a 1952 Oldslowmobile Rocket 88 that Granny had nearly ruined by never exceeding 25 MPH ~ I've tweaked the methodology a little bit but it still works a treat .
> >
> > Well don't keep us hanging..... How?!?!?!?!?!..... 8-)
> >
> > - Alan
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
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