Well then ;
Get to it old son ! .
If the test light lights , then get a jump and if it stil doesn't crank , the Solenoid is suspect .
-Nate
(suffering the 85* F temps in Pasadena where the filthy hordes of tourists have descended)
Greg wrote:
>
> I don't have a volt meter. I do have a test light though.
>
> Nate <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >O.K. , it's time to break out the test light and voltmeter .
> >
> >If this a W-116 , W-123 or W-126 as the basic testing remains the same but the location of things differs slightly .
> >
> >In any case , use the test light at the junction box near the right inner fender , to see if it lights when you turn the key to the
> >" start" position ~ if so , connect the voltimiter across the battery terminals and set it to the 20 VDC range , at rest it must be 12 volts or above , when you turn to the " start " position it should remain above 10 VDC as the engine is cranking ~ if it drops below 10 VDC and the engine desn't crank , the battery is either discharged or going bad , try slow chaging it @ 15 amps or less for 12 hours then see if it starts .
> >
> >If the voltage remains @ 11VDC and the test light lit up , but the starter still didn't crank , the solenoid is Kaput ~ replace it or buy a rebuilt starter and inspect it closely to ensure it has a NEW solenoid as Bosch solenoids don't rebuild well . this usually means buyng a BOSCH Branded on the box rebuilt starter .
> >
> >More to come after this basic testing is done , remember : do the tests in the correct order or all is time wasted .
> >
> >-Nate
> > Greg wrote:
> >>
> >> My 1984 300SD wont start turn the key and nothing. Idk why but I think its the shifter is not registering that it is in park. Its happened to me in the past then I just give it a wiggle and set to go but this time it wont. Any suggestions.
> >>
> >
> >
>
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