Kerosene is $4.60/gal here in the land of Eminem, Diesel $4.09. Based
on what I've read, kero has way better ability to prevent cold filter
plugging than pump diesel. So for the money, it is a better add. I'm
running a B90/K10 blend and so far so good. Been a mild winter so far
so the jury is out, but so far I'm pleased. This article was pretty
helpful I thought:
http://www.make-biodiesel.org/Biodiesel-Recipes/winter-biodiesel-treatments.html
Ben near Detroit.
On 12/4/2011 9:26 PM, BStromsoe wrote:
> I use the PS diesel fuel supplement on a regular basis (4oz-6oz per
> tank). Same thing with MMO on an alternate basis. I do diesel purges
> twice each year, and change the pre filters twice each year, fuel
> filters once each year. Have not had any fuel issues for many years
> now. Also, only buy fuel at two stations with high fuel turnover
> unless traveling and even then the freeway stations will have high
> fuel turnover. And, I am jealous of our veggie and B20, B100 people.
> brian from la verne, ca
> *From:* CaitlinDean <tinymachine@gmail.com>
> *To:* diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 4, 2011 5:55 PM
> *Subject:* [diesel_mercedes] Re : Cold Startin'...additive question
>
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com>, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > RIGHT NOW stop whatever you're doing (even if it's midnight) and
> drive to the Truck Stop out on The Interstate and buy a quart bottle
> of " DIESEL 911 " and dump it in the tank before your car becomes un
> startable .
>
> Well, it wasn't midnight...but I went to one of the local shops for
> this. Betty started fine...first shot, with 3 glow plug (full) cycles
> (aka including clunk).
>
> On the bottle for Diesel 911, it says "for emergency" and "does not
> prevent gelling" yaddy yaddy...basically gave me the impression, once
> you've got the problem "use THIS" and on the bottle it said to PREVENT
> gelling to use the Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement + Cetane Boost.
>
> So I bought the supplement instead of the 911 because I didn't YET
> have a gelling issue...and want to check with you guys before I use
> it...in case I need to swap, because you all know a LOT more than I
> do, and I wouldn't be surprised if you know more than what the bottle
> says outright ;)
>
> Here's what is in my tank right now:
> about 4-5 gallons of roughly B50 PLUS the rest of the tank filled with
> petrol diesel
> (so...somewhere between B10-B20...yes?)
> PLUS around 8oz of Diesel Kleen that I found in my trunk
>
> Temps are mid-20s the last couple of days...about 10deg warmer during
> the day...it's *usually* over 40 during the day most of the winter and
> much colder at night.
>
> I am only planning on B10-B20 right now...the temporary B50 was a
> fluke because my friend wanted to put my few gallons of B100 right in
> my tank rather than my can.
>
> So is the supplement better for my situation than 911? I want to get
> it right!
>
> > Do the valve adjust ASAP too ! .
> >
> > Remember : before you take anythng apart you'll need the special
> wrenches Mark of this list) , a set of feeler gauges that have .004" &
> .014" blades in them , I *HIGHLY* suggest getting ' stepped ' feeler
> gauges , these have the end portion of the blade precision ground to
> the size marked on it , this makes it more or less fool prooof as you
> adjust so the end bit passes through but the larger stem part , must
> be forced in the gap .
> >
> > You'll also need a valve cover gasket and maybe a few spare 8MM nuts
> & wave washers as they're easy to drop and come in super handy all the
> time anyways .
>
> Well, darn...I like to support list members...but I already got all of
> these type tools as part of a package deal before I started lurking
> here. But I DO have the CD manual from Tom Hanson on my christmas list
> ;) And now I'll be sure to ask ahead of buying in case I can throw
> support in the right area...thanks!
>
> >
> > To prevent it from stalling , start the engine FIRST then fiddle
> with the radio , heater controls , lights , wipers , seatbelts etc. as
> this gives the engine a moment to wamr up a bit , then you can lightly
> keep the engine running with your right toes whilst you _firmly_ apply
> the brakes with the ball of your left foot ~ do not rev. the engine
> any higher than necessary to prevent stalling and always remember to
> wait for the tranny to release fully before changing from drive to
> reverse or vice-versa . this little bit will prevent you from having
> tranny troubles like everyone else you know does .
>
> Nate, I do it just like this...just how you taught me :) Almost never
> stalls, and when it does it's cuz I'm not paying enough attention or
> I'm impatient.
>
> > Didja put some heavy things in the trunk for extra traction yet ?
> ice is a nasty thing .
>
> My "garage" is in my trunk ;) But...not nearly as heavy as kitty
> litter or a dead body, so I may have more work to do there, but
> usually no icy driving required...then again, you never know!
>
> Caitlin
> Santa Fe
>
> > Caitlin wrote:
> > >
> > > I *finally* got an opportunity today to test out all that good
> cold starting info passed around the board lately. I've been
> practicing "the drill" but honestly it's only been between low 30's up
> to the 40's here in the morning, and that's no fun. NOT that 26f is
> really cold, but I had my first "failure" using the regular drill.
> > >
> > > So I remembered someone posted that when it's really cold they
> cycle the plugs 3 times...so I did that and she fired RIGHT up, after
> my first 2 failures.
> > >
> > > I do have about 90% Biodiesel in the 1/3 full tank right
> now...totally meant to get it to about B50 before the cold snap. And
> didn't. But the drill is working for me, either way!
> > >
> > > Of course, my real problem with cold starting is the time it takes
> to "warm up"...and by that I mean...it takes what feels like a really
> long time before I can drive the car without it stalling. If I have to
> reverse first, it's even worse, but I digress.
> > >
> > > Is this most likely something that will change after my valve
> adjustment? Or a more likely culprit that I can chase? Oh, my coolant
> is also pretty shot and desperately in need of a change. (Luckily we
> do get warm winter days here, so it's on the "really soon" list)
> > >
> > > Anyway...thanks to all who chimed in with cold starting tips!
> > >
> > > Caitlin
> > > Santa Fe
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
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