! YAY ! .
I'm sure you'll do just fine Ben .
Be _SURE_ to print out the cylinder head torque diagram and _FOLLOW_IT_ ! the order in which you tighten the bolts is critical .
I , personally use an old racing trick on every engine : I snug up the bolts then I begin torquing them down in 5 # increments ~ yes this is time consuming *but* it draws the head to the block *perfectly* evenly.....
I hope that putting a fresh head against old piston rings , doesn't wind you up with oil leaks from a pressureized crankcase ...
Of course , you already have ALL the various sized O-Rings for the oil tube seals ? there's a bunch of that crap that leaks like the devil and is easy to change now with the manifolds off , not so much once it's buttoned up , just ask Tom .
-Nate
Ben wrote:
>
> Jeez Louise! I sent the head out over 2 months ago and finally, yes finally after waiting for parts (prechamber shims, intake and exhaust guides, etc., the machine shop finally returned to me a "perfect" head. Better be! I rebuilt the turbo myself but had the shop balance the turbo (at TN Nate's suggestion) so that's done. Got the rebuild kit for the vacuum pump from Peachparts; had the starter rebuilt while that whole side was open, putting a new water pump on, etc. Sent the radiator out for a once-over. Got all the sundry parts (yeah right) so reassembly to commence this coming Friday/Saturday. Until I see that missed a part (like rubber exhaust hangers, damn!).
>
> Never done this in my life I must say. Any last words for a rookie about to rebuild the entire upper half of a OM617 with nothing but a FSM and a dream?
>
> Thinking about prep before head is remounted, what should I be doing to get the block ready? Want to desparately flush the cooling system but sort of can't now with the head off, lest I get crap where I don't want it. Fire away ladies and germs.
>
> Ben near Detroit
>
No comments:
Post a Comment