You may trust those guys and they may be the greatest people.
But, and this is a "BIG BUT" It's obvious to me from what I have read that
they do not have the expertise or experience to be doing this job on your
coach.
Very bad things could happen to your coach if this is not fixed properly.
You need too find an experienced truck shop like Freightliner or something
similar.
Good Luck
Fred Hengel
-------Original Message-------
From: glen milender
Date: 02/08/08 09:52:00
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
Guys - Thanks again- Now they are saying that the problem is not in the axle
but that the drive shaft is wobbling. They've taken it to another shop to
check it out. I trust these guys. I think it's just something they haven't
run into before. Anyway, I think it's good noews for me, cause now they won
t be going into the axle. He said that check out OK so he dug further. I
mentioned the U joints like you guys said, but he seems to think they will
be OK. Thanks, Glen
Kenneth Molloy <ken@molloys.org> wrote: --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com,
Russ Waterhouse"
wrote:
>
> Ken,
> When you say there should be no play in the pinion shaft. You
should explain in a
> forward and reverse manner. There is some "twist" play, but none in
up and down, or
> forward and back.
> Russ
You're absolutely right, Russ. There out to be just a little
movement when you twist the pinion, but just a fraction of an inch --
a few thousandths. If you marked the pinion housing and the yoke,
then rotated the yoke, there ought not to be but about 1/16 of an inch
Ken
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kenneth Molloy"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 12:26 AM
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
>
>
> : --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, fred hengel wrote:
> : >
> : > Hi Phil and Mike,
> : >
> : > I really hate to be negative on mechanical issues as they can
really
> : > surprise you sometimes. It seems to me any competent shop would
> : have already suggested replacing the U-joints when they saw zerks
> : missing and a dry condition. Especially when they diagnosed bad
> : pinion bearings. I too would change the u-joints and test before
> : pulling the rear apart. You are talking lots of labor $ verses
> : minimal labor $ to be sure.
> : >
> :
> : This whole scenario reminds me of an incident which made it on
one of
> : the television programs a few years ago. A couple in a motorhome
> : would be cruising down the freeway in Arizona when a pickup would
> : pull up alongside and wave them down, telling them there was smoke
> : coming from the rear end. The MH was then advised to take a
nearby
> : exit and take it to a shop where the mechanic rolled under the
rear
> : end and removed the differential cover, then came out with a
greasy
> : rag full of metal shavings he said came out of the rear end.
> :
> : The shop was able to locate a good used differential assembly for
> : about $500, and when it came, they would install it. Several
RVers
> : had fallen into this same trap, and the television shop finally
set
> : up a motorhome with a TV camera directly above the rear axle, and
> : then drove down that same stretch of the freeway. They caught
> : the "mechanic" taking a greasy rag full of shavings under the MH
and
> : then opening it up and showing it to the RVer. Then the "used
> : differential" turned out to be the original one after it was all
> : cleaned up.
> :
> : The Arizona state police arrested everybody who was involved and
when
> : the differential was properly reinstalled, there were no problems.
> : They had been victims of a scam.
> :
> : When I was a mechanic, I did a lot of rear axle work -- possibly
> : because I was the only mechanic in the shop who owned a dial
> : indicator. There should be NO END PLAY in the tail pinion! NONE!
> : Depending on the rear axle manufacturer and model, the preload on
the
> : pinion bearings is usually set by torqueing the nut on the yoke
to a
> : certain value, which crushes a bushing on the shaft. That "crush
> : bushing" has to be replaced every time the yoke nut is removed.
> :
> : If there were zerk fitting missing from the U-joints, that alone
is
> : good reason for replacing the U-joint. If you just screw in a new
> : zerk fitting and grease the U-joint, you would be forcing every
grain
> : of sand right into the needle bearings!
> :
> : U-joint kits aren't very expensive, and the labor to remove the
drive
> : shaft, replace the U-joints, and reinstall the drive shaft
shouldn't
> : exceed 3 to 3-1/2 hours.
> :
> : More than 50 years experience as an automobile, airplane and RV
> : mechanic have taught me that when you have a problem like this,
look
> : at the last thing which was done before the problem started. In
this
> : case, the driveline was removed for towing. Apparently there was
no
> : vibration before the driveline was removed, but now there is
> : vibration! Bingo! Eureka! Problem solved!
> :
> : I still believe the problem will end up being that the two yokes
on
> : the ends of the driveshaft are not aligned in the same plane.
That
> : will very definitely cause a vibration.
> :
> : Ken Molloy
> : '94 Allegro Bay 37' MH
> :
> :
> :
> : --------------------------------------------
> : Off-topic posts will be removed.
> : Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
RV model you have.
> :
> : To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> : Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> :
> : Yahoo! Groups Links
> :
> :
> :
> :
>
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