Thanx Mark ;
I'll save this in case I ever get the nerves to do it.....
I was thinking about using a ring spanner and dead blow mallet to loosen that nut, was wondering how much torque it takes and needs to ensure it doesn't vibrate loose again....
-Nate
LIVE in the world as it is, WORK to make the world as it should be
Mark wrote :
Well, yeah; dial indicators and degree wheels and all that stuff can let you know exactly where your cam timing is at, and I've done it that way, too. But you can be sure that any, and I mean ANY engine with 150,000 miles or more on it will have a stretched timing chain, and the longer the chain the more the stretch. You can put in a 3- to 4-degree offset key in these engines without worrying about going through that whole degree-ing procedure.
As far as difficulty, I would rate this job somewhere below setting the valve lash:
Once the cam cover is off, move the crankshaft to where the number cylinder is at TDC, and use baling or other type of wire through the holes in the cam gear to hold the chain at the top of the gear. Release the chain tension by removing that big nut-like thing just forward of the manifold assembly, and take out the spring and plunger that's inside. Remove the cam gear bolt. This could be the most difficult step. I use a long wrench and a good sized hammer to strike the wrench and pop the bolt loose. They've always come right off, in my experience. What you don't want is for the engine to turn over. Not that anything will be damaged if it does; it's just that the bolt is not coming loose. Now the cam gear will come right off with maybe just a tap or two from behind. Remove and replace the Woodruff key, making sure the offset is installed such that the camshaft itself will be a clockwise in relation to the gear. Then, reassemble, moving the crankshaft just enough to allow the cam gear to slip back on. There is a torque specification for the cam gear bolt; don't tighten it until after the tensioner is re-assembled. Again, I use the long wrench, and give a couple of quick, medium-hard strikes to secure the bolt. There isn't a lot of tension on it, and the torque specification isn't critical. Oh, and don't forget to remove the baling wire....
Mark (currently) in Clearwater, FL (returning to Covid-free Centennial, CO today)
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Posted by: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
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