Diesel RVs: Re: [diesel_mercedes] IP Tinker

Yeah I did. They were only grayish and no noticeable chunks, but it worked better after some polishing and ether. There was dark rings that I never got to come completely clean. but I didn't think scraping was a good idea. Could I have scotch-brighted them? Also, while it worked, It never really worked properly. My little test pipe showed a weak spray at idle that then looked good at wot. So I got one from another IP. But this all proved that the cause was the valve. It still POP-POP-POPs every once in a while so a thorough cleaning is probably in order. But when it runs good (most of the time) it really runs pretty damn good.

Are those check valves and seats matched sets? Or can I just throw them all in the solvent and put them back together in any order? And where can I get new crush washers to put under them upon reassembly? I didn't know the crush washers were there and there may be some missing.

Thanks again for the suggestion.

Bogy

"Hardware eventually fails. Software eventually works" - Michael Hartung

From: "vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes]" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 3, 2016 8:26 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] IP Tinker

Cool ! .

Did you find much dirt/crud in the delivery valve / hole ? .

This is why I suggested using clean Q-Tips , they're bright white and clearly show any crud they pick up .

-Nate

Bogy wrote :

IT WORKS! HOT DAMN! IT WORKS!

I built a special test gizmo (see attached pic) after I cleaned the outlet parts. Then I swapped the #3 and #4 outlets since I was sure #3 pumped. Guess what? #3 pumped with the clean #4 outlet on it and now the #4 pump (with the old #3 outlet) is pumping too. So the #4 pump was good all the time and the whole problem was in the outlets - probably a dirty or otherwise malfunctioning check valve.

The initial tests were done with a weaker (1500 psi) injector and so I installed the full pressure injectors and all the individual pumps worked at full pressure. #3 (with the old #4 outlet was weak so I got a replacement from another IP and #3 became as strong as all the others. Looks like it was a faulty check valve all along.

I readjusted the rotation of the #4 outlet so it was more toward it's original position and the sprays all looked good both at idle and WOT. Most of all when I got it bled and started EVERY cylinder was contributing as proven by cracking the injector nuts in turn and almost killing the engine each time when the nuts got loose enough to prevent injection.

Nate I owe you more than I can pay for that suggestion. I would never have thought that the check valve might be the problem. But it made sense and mostly - IT WORKED. Thanks too for the pointer about the crush washer under the outlet. I guess those seal the check valve seats and may well be worth replacing since I have had them all out. I hope I never underestimate the value or contribution of such passive parts again.

Now I can work on more trivial stuff like improving the exhaust and installing some 4.10s in the diffs.

Thanks for all your help you guys. This had been a real exercise in discipline and rigor and perserverence for me. It has certainly been a developmental experience for me. It's true - whatever stress you endure that doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

I have some vids but they are too big to put in the files section.

Bogy

"Hardware eventually fails. Software eventually works" - Michael Hartung

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Posted by: Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com>

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