Just so ;
One thing about water cooled engines : when they site , they corrode inside the water jacket and the rust is a very fine silt that settles in far corners and hardens up and is very difficult to get loose again .
You'll flush until the coolant remains clear and think it's all good to go but the first really hot day and hard run , will soften up a layer or three of the silt and dump it back into the circulating coolant , rendering it un able to properly transfer heat so the dang temperature gauge begins to rise a bit and when you check the coolant it's red instead of yellow or green .
For this reason I always say _YOU_ can/will do a better flushing job because to do it properly takes time and manual labor , niether of which any Shop has in abundance .
-Nate
Brian wrote :
I played those games 4 or 5 years ago. Drilled my holes and all that stuff. Resolved all my "too hot" when I finally put a new radiator in, flushed everything out with a good citric acid flush, and keep MB coolant flowing. Have been rock steady on 83C (Mary) and 175F (Martha) ever since. BTW, 83C=175F.
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