Thanks for the feedback Tom. Much appreciated. I ordered 5lbs of
(kosher for the holiday!) citric acid off fleabay on Sunday, hopefully
it will be here today or tomorrow. Going to do a full-on citric flush
then take it from there. Heat is hot so to your point, something is
clogged. And since the car overheated previous to my buying it (enough
to condemn the head gasket), this tells me no one did much except drive
it hot.
Followed the FSM when putting all the parts back together so while
there's always room for error, I'm pretty sure I did it right. The head
was totally redone by a machine shop so that's clean. Must be
block/heater core related. I sent the radiator to the shop to get
inspected and cleaned so I assume they did what I paid them to do. At
the very least, once I do the citric it will clean it out.
Nothing is leaking although I do smell a faint smell of coolant inside
the car on occasion. Wonder if the heater core is bad? Usual tell-tale
wet carpet on the passenger side is not there. I checked the thermostat
in a pot of boiling water on the stove and it did open. Someone had
mentioned using a 75C thermostat off a W107. Might do that also but
after the citric.
I'll report back. Anyone who has done the citric before, love to have
some blow-by-blow.
Thanks!
Ben near Detroit
I'll do the citric and
On 9/27/2011 11:12 PM, audiolaw@aol.com wrote:
>
> Ben,
> FIRST, remember not to over complicate.
> The symptoms you describe are bad water circulation symptoms. Not
> Klima control symptoms. Not AC symptoms. In fact, the fact that your
> heat and defrost seem to be working is a vote in favor of it NOT being
> a Klima system-related issue.
> Do the basics. Figure out why water is not circulating adequately
> in your cooling system.
> When you did the valves, did you also do a citrus flush on the
> cooling system? If it's a 1979, you have had plenty of time for crud
> to build up, clog things, etc.
> What about the thermostat? Is it the proper temperature? Is it
> opening (you can check it in a mug of boiling water)?
> What is a "once over" in a radiator shop? Did that include a
> citrus bath, rodding out or some other means of ensuring that it isn't
> clogged after more than 30 years of use?
> Worse thought: While the engine was opened up for work, did a rag
> get used to stop up a leaky water jacket port, but not pulled when you
> put things back together?
> Get one of those cheap IR thermometers and point it around the
> engine. See if there is any part that it getting hotter. Maybe you
> can find an error.
> You DID connect the radiator lines back correctly, not backward,
> didn't you?
> Sometimes, air pockets can form in the system. There are archive
> posts about addressing this issue.
> Best of luck with it,
> Tom
> In a message dated 9/27/2011 5:35:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> bgiovan@cavtel.net writes:
>
> Fired up the 300SD and cranked on the second try. Yay! Only took
> me 8 months to get it put back together.
>
> Various nit pick issues which I can handle but one has me stumped.
> 1979 300SD (W116) with the lovely ACC/Chrysler Airtemp. If I run
> with the defrost on HIGH and heat on MAX, the car will hover
> around 100C. As soon as I turn off the defrost (because I'm
> boiling), the temp starts to climb. Then I chicken out, crank up
> the heat and it settles back to 100C.
>
> History - bought the car from an old cat in Gainesville, FL back
> last December. Great shape but blown headgasket.
>
> What I've done over the last 8+ months:
> Professionally rebuilt head with all new innards
> New 1985 Cam
> Rebuilt starter
> New water pump, new Meyle 7 blade plastic fan and clutch
> Rebuilt vacuum pump
> Rebuilt turbo
> Sent radiator out to radiator shop for once-over.
> Various "while I'm in there I might as well's"
>
> Thoughts on the cooling issue? AC doesn't seem to want to engage
> from inside and being the dreaded Airtemp, not sure where to start.
>
> Ben near Detroit
>
>
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