Once you disconnect the lines from the master cylinder, there may be a little dribble, but mostly it's downhill from the flare nut. I reconnected mine once and when I reconnected them I just pushed the pads in on one front and one rear wheel and that forced the air at the top of the lines back into the master cylinder where they found the top of the cylinder and then the port to the reservoir. A few pumps on the pedal to bring everything tight and the job was done.
It just never made sense to me trying to push an air bubble downhill.
BTW. I got this idea from my 75 300D sedan, on which someone had installed a 240D manual transmission, and on which the bleeding procedure was to run a hose from the clutch cylinder bleeder to each of the wheel cylinders and, after purging the hose, pump the clutch until no more air showed up in the master cylinder reservoir. IIRC, they both used the same reservoir so it was self replenishing. When done you shut off the last brake bleeder and the clutch bleeder and emptied the hose either into the reservoir or the trash can and topped off the tank.
My current setup involves a check valve on a short piece of hose that fits tightly over the bleeder nipples. Then a long piece of clear hose from the other end of the check valve that is long enough to reach from the right rear brake to the brake reservoir. The other end of the long clear hose goes back into the reservoir. You sit and pump the brakes watching the clear hose and when there are no more bubbles passing through the hose the job is done.
FWIW,
Bogy.
On Sunday, June 22, 2014 10:36 PM, "vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes]" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
What's going on in Arizona Max ? .
It'll go easily , I'll flush and then drain the hydraulic system first , then place some plastic bags underneath the master , put a clean absorbent rag over the plastic so if I drip any brake fluid it won't hit the paint and cause rusting .
The actual R & R of the master is dead simple , two 13 MM ATF nuts and three 11 MM flare nuts on the brake pipes IIRC , swap over the resivoir off the car re install and then fill and pressure bleed it , should take only a couple hours including setting up the jack stands and flushing out the old brake fluid .
I have a dedicated 7 MM 6 point combination wrench I bought specifically to bleed German cars' brakes ,it's got a bend in the ring end I really like for easy access .
I also just got a new bleeder bottle , with a wider mouth so I can keep two different size rubber bleeder hoses in it at all times .
Maybe I'll spring for the <magic> M-B factory DOT 4 brake fluid , they sell it at my local Partshaus .
As soon as I get this done it's back to my Morris Minor , I discovered loose front end parts , mostly due to 50 year old rotted away rubber bushings so now it all comes apart and gets de rusted , wire brushed and re painted gloss black before fitment of new bushings .
I hope my Morry Parts Supplier has polyurethane bushings in stock to - morrow .
I also need to go borrow an engine hoist so I can yank the driveline and begin major servicing of it .
-Nate
Max wrote :
It'll go easily , I'll flush and then drain the hydraulic system first , then place some plastic bags underneath the master , put a clean absorbent rag over the plastic so if I drip any brake fluid it won't hit the paint and cause rusting .
The actual R & R of the master is dead simple , two 13 MM ATF nuts and three 11 MM flare nuts on the brake pipes IIRC , swap over the resivoir off the car re install and then fill and pressure bleed it , should take only a couple hours including setting up the jack stands and flushing out the old brake fluid .
I have a dedicated 7 MM 6 point combination wrench I bought specifically to bleed German cars' brakes ,it's got a bend in the ring end I really like for easy access .
I also just got a new bleeder bottle , with a wider mouth so I can keep two different size rubber bleeder hoses in it at all times .
Maybe I'll spring for the <magic> M-B factory DOT 4 brake fluid , they sell it at my local Partshaus .
As soon as I get this done it's back to my Morris Minor , I discovered loose front end parts , mostly due to 50 year old rotted away rubber bushings so now it all comes apart and gets de rusted , wire brushed and re painted gloss black before fitment of new bushings .
I hope my Morry Parts Supplier has polyurethane bushings in stock to - morrow .
I also need to go borrow an engine hoist so I can yank the driveline and begin major servicing of it .
-Nate
Max wrote :
Summer of master cylinders. Let me know how it goes. One of my twins is here taking care of me this summer, he told me to order one and he would put it in. You going for Arizona? Maz
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Posted by: Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com>
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