Guys,
I'll try to get some picture of my coupe's wax job in a few days. What is really ashamed is that I didn't take before pictures.
Of course there is a reason I did not post before pictures; I was ashamed of how my MB coupe looked. But, it was bad.
It was Nate that put me on to the importance of getting all of the old clear coat off the car before starting any kind of cosmetic improvement. My fear was going through my original paint down to the primer. This "Bar Keepers Friend" and a "white 3M" scrub pad are critical pieces as they are both pretty gentle in cutting through the old clear coat. This is not hard work, nothing like the brown or white paste that Simonize use to sell before you went with the "Yellow Can". I did all of my top surfaces at the same time and it took no longer than an hour.
Then the patience of putting on coat after coat of the industrial floor was. Use a micro fiber cloth for this. The first several coats will leave you unimpressed but be patient, it will come.
I think after about 6 coats of wax I let it dry for a few days and then went over all of the waxed surfaces with 1000 grit wet paper lightly. Once you have done that you have leveled the wax and re scuffed the surface.
I followed that with three more applications on the floor wax and I was done. The sanding after built up is an important step that is not in the original suggestion from the RV site suggestion that got me on to this idea.
This is not hard work. Each coat of wax is on in less than 5 minutes. You can re-coat after 30 minutes and just keep building the surface.
Oh yes, use disposable gloves for this work, this stuff will build up on your hands just like your car.
I suppose the thing that makes me grin the most is knowing that my paint is all original factor finish, something I really wanted to keep. I never thought it could be brought back.
Chip
Houston
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