I wasn't sure it'd be helpful , there is so much fiddling to do , not much grunt at all .
Maybe I'm gatting more patient as I age ? .
This morning I unlocked the driver's side door and was pleased to *see* all the doors *silently* unlock .
I was SO pleased in fact , before I started the car I locked them all again just to watch the knobbies move down ........
I'd hoped that Tom would be there to take (better) pix but door works is a job best done alone and un hurried .
Don't forget the towel ! *!BOING!* =8-) .
I left out the part where the shorter horizontal rod , that connects the latch to the vacuum chamber bell crank , broke (crumbled) it's plastic holder/bushing , this required me to run back to P-A-P where Brian's gold(ish) '83 W-123's doors were still intact and un touched , I ever so carefully took it apart and knocked the little white pin out of the center of the bell crank's pivot bushing , this way I didn't have to worry about the tiny plastic rod holder/bushing thing crumbling as I took the entire bell crank , it's a small but important part .
If you print out my Service Notes and drag them out to the car , they should make sense .
-Nate
Tony wrote :
>
> Nate, once again you star. Am planning on ripping my panel off next week to fix the window.
> The tip about how to use the sledge hammer and pry bar are invaluable <G>.
> Tony
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > O-kay then , let's give this a try .
> >
> > I removed the interior handles and mirror knob , then I gently and carefully pried the door panel away from the door proper , begining along the bottom and working my fingers arond to the ends and up wards . once I had all the clips popped loose I lifted the _rear_ edge of it up until the top edge began to release from it's vertical clips , then you twist the entire panel counter - clockise a tiny bit as you raise it 1/2" or so , this releases the front plastic clip holding the map pocket into place . (often broken , now you know why)
> >
> > Set the panel aside and raise up the plastic vapor barrier sheet from the rear lower edge only *just* enough to access the latch screws , pop out the black plastic oval cover in the door skin & unscrew two # 2 philips screws holding the rear of the exterior handle , peer in through the access hole stamped in the inside of the door and locate the # 2 phillips screw holding the front of the handle in , remove it and push the handle forward , it'll pop loose , set it aside .
> >
> > There are two 3MM locking rods connecting the inside handle and vacuum lock to the latch , there's a tiny sheet matal clip you press upwards on to release it , it'll prolly pop off and fall either inside the door or to the ground where you thoughtfully laid out a light colored old towel or sheet to prevent various tiny screws & clips from bouncing , never to be seen again .
> >
> > Once the clips are removed , the rod can be pushed out , one of the rods hooks in and con't be removed until the latch has been unscrewed and is free to wobble about .
> >
> > There are _four_ phillips screws holding the latch to the door , remove and set aside then work your left hand in through the door skin and your right hand in through the hole where the latch was , wirggle it thisa-way and that , as long as the window is fully up you can push it in a little bit then drop it down and inch or so , then you'll have to wriggle it as youu twist it behind the welded in rear window run channel ~ it's tricky , sort of like those Chinese Puzzles that we had when I were a lad but when you get it * Just So * , it'll easily slip out and plummet to the bottom of the door where you can remove it .
> >
> > Match your new latch to the old one and ascetain that the door handle's long lock rod has a bow tie shaped thing on the very end of it , I found mine in the bottom of the door along with the broken platic tip off the funnel shaped thing that connects the outer handle to the latch proper ~ this is all fairly delicate so be gentle as you test fit the lock shaft into the funnel , and twist it , the funnel has a tip on it that *must* move a flat stamped thing with a slot in it , for the key to lock or unlock the passenger side door .
> >
> > BOTH parts (handle shaft's metal bowtie end $ plastic funnels's tip) were broken on this car , it seems Mercedes wants you to use the key when you install the exterior handle , you must needs twist the key a bit as you gently guide the handle into place and use your eyes , flashlight and third hand to ensure that long shaft goes into the funnel shaped piece rather than dangle tantalizingly just below it .
> >
> > Once you think you have the handle properly installed , hold it in place whilst you insert one of the rear screws then test the key a few times to ensure the lock button goes up and down O.K. , then open the rear door for safety and close and open the front door several times , testing the key's ability to lock/un lock as well as the outer handle's ability to open the door as the handle has a tang that must needs go _behind_ the latch arm , as you're happliy lining up all the other parts.....
> >
> > It works ? good . now , loosen the rear handle screw and install the other two screws , then tighten the rear screws first , followed by the hidden forward inner screw , re attch the actuating rod and it's clip , you're nearly there now . clean up your hands and gently lower the plastic vapor barrier sheet , it is *very* important and often gone missing , you can easily cut one out of clear plasic to suit , re install the inner trim panel , remembering to hold the front edge in first so that flusherginner map pocket clip hooks on the door's cutaway , then drop it down whist alinging the upper edge to grab firmly .
> >
> > Press the lower edge's plastic clips into thier holes , usually a few snap off but no worries .
> >
> > Install the three arm rest screws loosely , then tighten the lower two firmly and finally the upper one that's always lose , I find using spare exterior door handle screws with the attached flat washers , holds this better so it won't come loose again my folks pulling it to close the door . you can use any old 6MM flat washer , DO NOT use a start nor split washer here .
> >
> > Re - install the other trim screws and you're good to go .
> >
> > This is really the short form here , it sounds hard but is mostly a mater of working slowly and deliberately , *gently* above all else .
> >
> > I had several different 2 Philips screw drivers and discovered one fit the screws *much* better than did my old Craftsman , loose fitting Phillips scrwdrivers tend to strip out the heads more easly .
> >
> > Sorry about the crappy photos , I have them saved in my ipod thing so if anyone in So. Cal. knws how to down load them better , let's do that .
> >
> > -Nate
> >
>
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