Was thinking there might be two brake switches. one for the lights and one for turning off the CC. On thinking about it why have two, the electrics for just one switch are pretty simple.
Tony
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@...> wrote:
>
> From GDL's description, the only thing you need to check about the brake
> switch is the operation of brake lights. If the brake lights "light up"
> and go off, then the brake switch is not your problem.
>
> Bobby
>
> On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 6:54 AM, Lost but making good time. <
> aldridgetony97@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Jim, the 4way switch and the brake disconnect switch are the next two
> > items on my to do list. Gonna have to find the brake switch though, Any
> > clues as to where Mercedes might have hidden it?
> > Tont
> >
> >
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "n61cm" <jim@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't know about taking the actuator apart, never heard of anyone
> > doing that. I am referring to the way it works on a W123, I forget what
> > kind of car you have, maybe yours is different. Actually, I think Peter at
> > gdl-online.com has posted a test procedure for it. I think he might
> > rebuild them, too, can't remember off hand. Don't know about
> > intermittent...that could be anything. Maybe the four-way switch is
> > iffy...?
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Lost but making good time."
> > <aldridgetony97@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Jim, is the actuator a difficult maintenance item? I can have it apart
> > and take a look see if it aint too complex. The CC was working again
> > yesterday, so am thinking there is something intermittent either in the
> > harness connections, or in the actuator or amp box.
> > > > Have one month left in Mexico, then a few weeks in Yuma then a mad
> > dash to home. Sure be nice to have it sorted.
> > > > Tony
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "n61cm" <jim@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > If the cruise control actuator motor is bad, it will burn out the
> > amp box. The cruise control motor is the thingy under the hood connected to
> > throttle linkage. I wouldn't put another amp box in it unless/until I made
> > sure I had a good actuator motor. I have used gdl-online.com for overhaul
> > with great success.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Lost but making good
> > time." <aldridgetony97@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I think Tom is right, that is the cruise module, I swapped mine
> > for a PAP one and cruise worked better for a while. But it just failed
> > again. I have the old module apart, and cannot see any obvious damage,
> > someone said to solder the copper bar connections, would that help?
> > > > > > Cruise is important to me because of back issues.
> > > > > > Tony
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@ wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I believe that that is the infamous cruise control amplifier
> > module that
> > > > > > > ALWAYS fails.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Doesn't have anything to do with horn, lights, etc.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Tom
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > In a message dated 2/2/2012 5:34:21 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > > > > > > alstheone@ writes:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > It's the small aluminum box with a tab on the top screwed to a
> > bracket
> > > > > > > just to the right of the parking brake mount under the dash. It
> > has 10 pins
> > > > > > > for the plug on the bottom. the P/N 001 545 52 32 is etched into
> > the face.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Toward freedom,
>
> Bobby Yates Emory
>
No comments:
Post a Comment