I didn't take pix but they wouldn't show much anyway. The switch is shaped like a cup and its mouth opening is on the far side, with not much room behind it to work. Three screws are on the inside so you have to get into the cup from the back side. You'll need a little mirror, two 2" power screwdriver bits (one straight slot medium size and the other an allen to fit the new screws you should get from Home Depot), and a 1/4" wrench to turn the bits. On my 240D there is a plastic vent hose that I moved out of the way to give me 3" of room to work in. The screws you'll need are are two to a bag, 50 cents apiece at Home Depot. Bag says
CAP SCREW
4mm X 12mm
PLAIN STEEL
2 PCS
SKU is 030699825684
I think Home Depot's number is 574-145
Another description is
M4-.7X12mm Soc Cap Scr Alloy
You'll need three of them and the allen bit to fit the head. Or you can struggle to re-use the original straight slot heads...just add two or three hours to your job LOL. I also bought hex heads but they will not fit. Actually they'll fit but there isn't enough clearance for the socket.
It's a tedious job. Just remember to turn the ignition key to ON to get the wire harness plug off the back. When you do that it pops right off. Also, unhook the battery before you start because there are some hot wires in the ignition, you don't want to mess anything up with an arc or short.
Jim
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> Ahh, you have found my problem. I need to do some other things while my instrument panel is out (clock, etc.), but the "intermittent" dead start click is right up there too. Don't suppose you took 25 pictures?
>
> Â
> brian from la verne, ca
>
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Ignition switch swap-out report W123 82 240D
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