99 % of the time , they're not properly packed ~ you cannot press the grease in between the rollers , you must mush it up from one end until it mushes out the other end then turn it a little bit & repeat . a time consuming process to do by hand , most FLAPS sell inexpensive bearing packers that work with your spare grease gun , the one you keep loaded with wheel bearing grease instead of White Lithium Chassis Grease...
I'm sure there's a Poo-Tube tutorial on how to re pack wheel bearings .
The adjustment is a bit tricky , just remember there's NO PRELOAD WHATSOEVER else the bearing will burn out like yours did .
Mechanics don't need a dial gauge and I doubt you do either .
If you decide to use a dial indicator gauge , set the freeplay to .002" .
-Nate
Dave wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I replaced my front wheel bearings and races on my '80 240D last year. Here it is a year and 10K miles later and it sounds like they're starting to go again! So... I'm wondering what I did wrong. When I replaced them, I used bearing kits from GermanAutoParts.com. I used this grease called "Waterproof Green Grease" which seemed pretty awesome based on the label. I followed the steps in the Haynes manual in adjusting - tighten until the wheel doesn't move then back off a 1/3 of a turn on the nut.
>
> So, either the bearings/races were defective or perhaps I didn't adjust the play correctly? I can't believe even some 'incorrect' grease wouldn't last longer than a year! I looked in my recently acquired WIS and it recommends 2mm play using a dial gauge. This seems like more than what I got using the Haynes method so I'm thinking I may have had them too tight. A dial gauge may be in my future.
>
> Anyone have any thoughts on this?
>
> Any recommendations on a decent dial gauge?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dave
>
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