Thanks Carl, excellent explaining the "freeze" plugs, seldom do they actually work as advertised, they do rust out, sometimes just pop out, which dumps all the coolant out, often results in destruction of the engine if not shut down in time.
OK, now for options, OE type, freeze plug IE sheet metal are available from Dorman Products, but some now are from China, do not recommend them at all, just now working on a 3.8 V 6 Buick that was almost fried from a rusted out freeze plug, have to pull the front wheel drive engine to fix that,,, crap, I am getting to old to do that, a real hassle too, on that type car.
If you can physically get too the bad freeze plug, which I cannot on this engine, there are brass freeze plugs available, Dorman brand, what I have used for years, brass is good, but sometimes extremely hard to install properly with the engine still in the vehicle, another option is wonderful, its a rubber freeze plug, also by Dorman,, it fits loosely in the round hole, an easy to tighten by turn a nut on the outside, which is on a stud the goes thru the rubber plug, a good snug on the nut with a open end wrench, an your back in business for most likely the life of the engine.
One caution, be sure to clean the hole around the sealing surfaces, use folded up about 80 or 100 grit sandpaper, an wipe with a clean cloth. Don't
want any seepage, then recommend a small bottle of Bars Leak, thats a brand name, not the other stuff.
When I rebuilt engines, I replaced all with new Brass freeze plugs, Dorman brand, an used aviation Permatex on them for good seal,or for inframe overhauls, I replace all those easily reached, those more difficult, use the rubber type, which does not need any sealant.
Cooling system problems are quite common, always have been, an sometimes difficult to locate the problem, actually on engines there are more than 30 problems that can cause an engine too overheat,, everything from hoses that collapse at speed only to ignition or timing being off or a defect, worn part that cause that, an anything in between, start with the most likely, an work your way thru the engines systems,, if you get into a bind, contact me for suggestions.
A Stant brand coolant system pressure tester is good if you do enough work to warrant the price, about $80 now, but handy when you have coolant leaks or problems, my every other year flush an new antifreeze always do a pressure test, has saves my engine several times.
BTW, engine idle was mentioned earlier, some engines will cool down, others will overheat during long idle periods, but I have never seen an engine damaged by long idle times. Have seen engines routinely idle for a week or more with out any problems. Thats done sometimes during extreme cold weather, such as Navy bases in the Arctic, or a sudden blue norther in Texas, that can drop temps down too minus zero an less with chill factor.
Also old Diesel engine, use frequently will be left idling, as they are hard to start, an cheaper to leave them idling than have to call a tech to start them, especially true for medium size Diesels, such a large generator sets, or locomotives, ships engines an such.
BTW since 1935 Mercedes Diesels have a unique feature, they only use an extremely small amount of fuel while idling, that was a requirement for the German military for all Diesels, so Mercedes even put it on the cars an still do.
Spring forward Sunday, its that time.
Doug in Baytown, TX,,
'78 300SD parts queen, spare engine,
daily driver,'81 300D, sometimes I do miss the turbo of the SD.
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